Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga

 Bom Dia,

My AC adaptor broke, so I'm running on limited battery power, and I'm not going to post tomorrow.  All I'm doing is shopping and packing anyway.  My flight leaves really early on Tuesday morning, so the proprietor kindly arranged to have me picked up by a taxi.  I can do a lot of things on my phone fortunately, so I'll be fine.  I just can't blog.

Today I went to the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga--old art as opposed to Modern or Contemporary Art. Getting there was easy, once I figured out the map on my phone.  I took bus 760.  I had the idea that I'd seen the museum from the tram, and I spotted it so I knew where to get off. Of course, then I was confronted by some stairs, but at the top was a pretty pocket park and my museum.

It's big and very nice.  The lighting is excellent and the exhibits don't feel crowded.  A lot of people showed up later, but I never felt the place was packed.  I strolled around leisurely.  It's mostly paintings and objets d'art.  Portugal has a long history of contacts with Asia, and they still have Macau, I think, in case you want to go gambling near Hong Kong.  I mention this because I have been blown away in many of the museums I've visited by the gorgeous Ming and Qing Dynasty porcelains and screens.  Most of them are huge, too.  I could almost fit inside myself.

I viewed the Portuguese paintings.  I enjoyed them and noted some influences from Flanders and Italy, but I did not recognize any names.  They are mostly devotional in nature, but there's the occasional portrait.  I went on the extensive collection of painters from the rest of Europe.  They even have a St. Jerome by the notorious Protestant Albrecht Durer.  Lots of St. Jeromes by the way.  He's popular in Lisbon.  I saw some striking works by the Spaniard Ribiera.  The works are arranged chronologically by style, and one can see a gradual fading of religious works in favor of portraits and landscapes.  So I had a happy wander though this fabulous museum.

Then I decided to be cute.  I didn't want to go back down the stairs and believed I could pick up a bus that would take me to Praca do Comercial.  Such a bus does exist--and it came--late--and refused to open its doors to me.  I got into a conversation with a couple of gentlemen at the stop.  Their bus wasn't running at all on Sundays!  And they suggested I walk down hill to get a tram.  Usually public transportation in Lisbon is very reliable, but something must have been going on because I didn't see any trams running and the next bus was scheduled to arrive in 90 minutes.  I decided to keep going.  I knew there was a metro station at the train station so I headed there.  It was a longish walk, but the metro brought me right to my home station.

There's rain the forecast for this afternoon and all week.  I am having apero of green tea and cheese.  I intend to pick up some good goodies to bring home.

Adeus!

Casa-Museu Medeiros e Almeida

 Bom Dia,

Actually there's a twofer because I also visited a park.  But first--dessert!  Portugal's national pastry and Lisbon's favorite is Pasteis de nata.  It originated in Belem, and there's a famous shop there, but pastries of all sorts are ubiquitous in Lisbon and not just in the tourist zone.  I pass a big, fancy one on my way to and from the metro, so when I came back, I stopped in and obtained one.  If you have ever had an English "Maid of Honor" you are thinking along the right lines.

Shall we have a bite?

You always say "we" and yet you never share.

Too hard to do so through the screen.  We have tender flakey pastry surrounding a custard filling.  You can get them in flavors, but I think the basic custard is really good.  A bit eggy and not too sweet.

I took the metro to Marques de Pombal, the metro stop so called because there's a big monument to him in a roundabout.  He's definitely one of Portugal's national heroes.  I had never heard of him until I came here and learned about his efforts at earthquake relief.  He came up with a lot of creative solutions.

I came early deliberately because I wanted to stroll in Lisbon's biggest city park, Eduardo VII.  Yes, it was named in honor of King Edward VII after he visited to renew the ancient alliance made way back in the Middle Ages between England and Portugal.  I had a pleasant time walking under the shade trees and enjoying the green space.

But then it was time to attend the museum.  I fetched up in Bougie Land with a lot of banks, luxury hotels, and designer shops.  I found the museum with no problem and got a senior discount. No one wants to see my passport. They take my word for it that I'm old. Sigh.

It's a lovely museum, and I had it all to myself.  Senhor Medeiros e Almeida was born into wealth and made even bigger bucks as a car dealer.  He described his "disease of collecting," but if this is sickness we need more of it.

I was hoping for period rooms--which I got, but the museum also features a fine collection of Late Medieval wood carvings, snuff boxes, jewelry and an amazing array of watches and clocks.  In one room was an exhibit of European fans complete with an explanation of "fan language."  The table in the dinning room is set with a dinner set that once belonged to Napoleon.  I also appreciated the beautiful Chinoiserie from the Ming and Qing Dynasties.  The period rooms are lovely and well set up more or less chronologically.  This is definitely worth a visit.

Now that we have had dessert, it's time for apero.  I have some rose and that soft cheese I have come to love. I toast some bread and it melts on top so I can spread it.  Yum!

Bye for now

Sorry

 Bom Dia,

I am over seventy and my digestion can be fragile, so I am not well today and did not go out.  I should be fine tomorrow.

Museu Calouste Gulbenkian

 Bom Dia,

I came to the right place.  The Iberian Peninsula has low Covid rates, and Portugal is doing better than Spain. The rest of Western Europe?  Not so much.  Bright red on the Covid Color Scale.

Lovers of fine art who will visit Lisbon, the Museu Calouste Gulbenkian is the place to come.  The impressive collection would turn the curators of the British Museum green with envy.  What's your fancy? Everything from paintings to statuary, to furniture, to rugs, to tapestries, illuminated manuscripts, ceramics from Western Europe to East Asia in various periods is on offer.

I took the metro finding it a refreshing change from trams and busses.  It's a lot faster.  I went to get my day pass and a couple asked me if I spoke English.  They were having a hard time figuring out the machine, so of course I helped them because we denizens of Lisbon are Nice!  It turned out we were headed to the same place, so I hung around while the poor husband kept messing up the metro gate.  He had to go back and back to get more tickets several times.  But when it came down to it, I took the train in the wrong direction and had to double back.  I got off at my stop and then had no idea where to go.  My first guess was wrong, so I turned around and headed across the Praca do Espanha.  I didn't see anything promising, so I asked a lady.  She didn't speak English, but she recognized the name of the museum and pointed me in the right direction.  The People of Lisbon are Nice!

Something was going on there--not in the museum itself, but in the attached institute.  All kinds of police cars, press, and a lot of important looking men in suits.  Never mind them.  We have art to view.

Calouste Gulbenkian of Armenian descent liked spending his money on fine arts and was a collector of outstanding taste and wide and varied interests.  A visit to the museum is like a walk though of Art History.  You can find Egyptian and Greco Roman Works.  I was especially fascinated by the Islamic collection of rugs and gorgeous ceramics.

Art from India and the Far East is also to be seen.  There's a marvelous exhibit of porcelain vases from the Qing Dynasty, and all of them are exquisite.  Then I moved on to European Art starting with some Late Medieval ivory carvings and illuminated manuscripts in the form of Books of Hours.

You would recognize many of the names of the painters whose works are on show.  How about Rembrandt and Rubens?  There are portraits by Van Dyke and Thomas Gainsborough.  If you like Impressionists you can mind, Manet, Monet and Mary Cassat.

I'm leaving out the statuary, but I liked the furniture.  I prefer period rooms, they arranged pieces of the same style and period together so it was almost like one.  Lovers of Art Nouveau will appreciate the exhibit of Rene Lalique.  Most of it was to clunky for my taste, but I did take a fancy to a couple of tiaras.

When I emerged it had turned hot, and I was in an area of broad streets and scary traffic with lots of hooting horns.  I was glad to get back on the metro and head for home.

Apero is the last of the ham.  I'm going to do my arteries a favor and not get more. I washed it down with green tea.  I went to the grocery store this morning, but I couldn't find any more of that nice wine from Douro, so I got some from Aletejano.

Bye for now

Belem: Mosteiro dos Jeronimos

 Bom Dia,

Let me recruit myself with a sip of chilled vinho blanco.

The Monastery is spectacular and probably Lisbon's most famous and visited attractions.  It is an UNESCO World Heritage site.  Having said that, I have to admit that today was a bit of an ordeal.

For one thing the Belem tram was not running due to track repairs.  A Lisbon Public Transit guy directed us to a bus stop.  As you can imagine the bus was very crowded, but the people were pleasant, and I was able to be helpful to my fellow Monastery travelers.  It's a long ride.

Once there I read the signs and went to get in line for my ticket.  I thought that coming mid week and early, I could escape the crowds.  I was wrong.  The ticket line was long and slow.  One got tickets by card machine only.  I wanted a combo ticket so I could visit the archeological museum.  This was not possible.  Having obtained my ticket, I had to go stand in another line.  I can compare the lines only to the stretching into infinity lines one finds at Versailles.  And the line moved at a pace that would make a glacier look like a greyhound.  I had to stand for fifty minutes in hot sunlight, and I would be lying if I pretended this did me any good.

The exterior is amazing as well.  The Monastery was founded by King Manuel I, because he had plenty of cash to burn because Vasco da Gama had discovered the sea route to India by sailing around Africa.  He came back with a boat load of spices and many a Portuguese caravel followed him.  This is the same King Manuel I, who dismissed Columbus (Rightly so. Columbus was nuts for grossly underestimating the size of the Earth, and don't try to tell me stories.  All educated people knew the Earth was round since Hellenistic Times. ) and blew off Ferdinand Magellan (this may have been a mistake as his voyage greatly benefitted the Spanish Crown.)

Finally! Inside only to realize I had to climb stairs.  At this point I was so stiff and depleted I wasn't sure I could make it.  I managed and followed the signs and emerged in the cloister.

At this point I began to think the line was worth it.  Marvelous!  What came to mind was the art historical concept of horror vacui.  The Cloister comes in two stories, and it is lovely to walk around admiring the exquisite and intricate carving.  The Refectory features some first rate tile work.  The whole thing is simply gorgeous.

When I was done I followed the signs for the exit feeling puzzled.  I wanted to see the church.  Well, it turns out that to see the church one has to leave the monastery and join a huge snaking line for another fifty minutes in the sun.  I decided I wasn't going to do that.  I don't like being an ungracious guest, but the design of this site is not geared toward the comfort and convenience of visitors.  I suppose they know we'll come anyway.

I took the tram part way home and then transferred to a bus.  Mercifully both forms of public transport were air conditioned.

For apero I toasted some bread and melted some cheese on it.  The Portuguese cheese is called Olveha and it's a very soft cheese incased in a waxy rind.  Very yummy indeed, and the white wine is refreshing.

Bye for now

Nucleo Arqueologico de Rua does Correeiros

 Bom Dia,

It rained hard over most of last night--apparently much to the relief of the Portuguese who had suffered from drought.  The season is turning.  It's a bit cooler, and there's more rain in the forecast for next week.

I really wanted to see the archeological site under the bank and booked a tour.  The tours are free, but they must be reserved on line or by phone.  They are given in Portuguese and English.  The place is actually very close to where I live.  I walk around the corner and down the street a ways, so it was easy for me to arrive a bit early.  The tour takes about fifty minutes and is not physically taxing.  There are stairs and places one has to duck, but no one in our group had a problem. 

The tour is led by an actual archeologist who did a good job giving us a sense of the history and structure of the city from the Iron Age on.  She pointed out how the Phoenicians influenced the inhabitants building techniques and life style.  The major portion of the ruins are Roman including the remains of a fish factory.  Conservas are truly an ancient tradition, but the Romans had a taste for fish left in salt to--uh--mature in the sun.  Garum and liquimen were ubiquitous seasonings for all classes.  A sort of modern analogy is South East Asian Fish sauce.  But Olispo also exported olive oil and some wine.  We learned that each product and each province had its own uniquely shaped amphorae.  There's an excellent selection of objects retrieved from the excavations.

If you visit Lisbon and have limited time, a better bet is to take this tour rather than hike up to the Roman Theatre.  Fortunately I had time to do both.

My tour wasn't until later, so I had time for shopping, and I did not have to go far afield.  I got more groceries.  I also picked up some cork products and treated myself to a pair of exquisite hand painted candlesticks from a beautiful shop around the corner.  The shop folks understand the needs of travelers, and she wrapped up my purchase in plenty of bubble wrap.

But all this money spending and archeology does work up an appetite.  And appetite means apero.  I'm having more ham and green tea.  I actually googled pork fat.  Apparently it's not as bad as I thought being less saturated and full of B Vitamins.

To accompany dinner I have a lovely pink wine DOC from the Douro Region.  The label proudly proclaims that the winery is family owned.  They do good work!

Bye for now

Rainy Day Shopping in Lisbon

 Bom Dia,

I had another airport dream.  In this one I made my flight, but when I got to Heathrow things fell apart.  In my dream I was able to board the connecting flight without a boarding pass, so I didn't know where the flight was going or what my seat was. Impossible in real life, I assure you!

The museums are closed on Monday, so it was time to rev up my credit card and go shopping.  I consulted google maps and went back to area where I emerged bewildered from the metro my first night here.  I was far more confident and oriented this time.

Of course it was all up hill and featured stairs as well.  My area is heavily touristed but relatively tranquil.  I walked into a bustling business/tourist district chock full of shops, traffic, trams, and tour groups.  It was noisy and crowded.  Since being here I have learned that a Largo is a plaza and a Praca is a larger largo.  I snooted around and licked windows. (OK not literally.  It comes from a French term for window shopping.)  Then I made my way up another steep hill.

My target was the Lisbon branch of a famous Portuguese toiletries made by Claus Porto.  The shop is small but very elegant.  The shop assistant told me it was a former pharmacy and pointed out the ceiling molding and wooden cabinets that they kept.  These a high class products, and all this elegance and beautiful packaging does come at a price, but the scents are irresistible.  I picked up some small soaps to give as gifts.

My next target did not open until 11, so I walked around for a bit. I also discovered that google maps sent me the long way around.

There is this cork store that came highly recommended by my guidebook.  Now cork and its products can be found in every touristy shop.  You may be thinking of wine bottle stoppers, but that not what we have here.  The cork is made smooth and thin and can be made into all kinds of things, including clothing.  The shop was much smaller than I expected and their sensibility is sleek and modern.  Very nice.  Not what I was looking for.  The offerings in my neighborhood are much prettier, so I'll be shopping local.

Then I came upon a shopping center--miniscule by American standards, but I had a good look around.  I found something I'd be looking for--a premium Portuguese chocolate shop.  I admired the offerings and bought a few things.  I also attended the Sephora and helped myself to some expensive cologne.  You can find it right next to the Starbucks.

I was actually pretty close to home by that time and had my umbrella up, so I came home for apero.  I made some green tea because it goes remarkably well with that fatty, gorgeous Portuguese ham, and it also makes me feel I am not completely destroying my health eating it.  The meat part is chewy and the fat just melts in my mouth.

I opened the window so I could hear the rain falling.  It's just lovely.  When I'm out I carry an umbrella--just in case.  I'm seeing from my windows, hapless folk taking shelter where they can, but they still to get where they are going.

Bye for now

Museu do Teatro Romano

 Bom Dia.

I always like visiting a city's roots, especially when, like Lisbon, the city is a Roman foundation.  Called at first merely Olispo, and Emperor Augustus granted the place the honorific name of Olisipo Julia Felicitas. After trams and busses I was looking for something I could walk to, and this site fitted the bill--even though I knew it was going to be all uphill.

But first I went grocery shopping.  One convenient feature of Lisbon is that most stores are open on Sunday, so if I needed more hummus or to top off my Ginja supply, nothing was easier.

Then I mapped out my route and set off. Uphill. I don't like it, but I can do it.  I got a little turned around because the signposting of streets is a bit inconsistent, but I had my map and soon sorted myself out finding an even steeper hill to climb to my target.  One funny thing.  People have begun to ask me for directions, which I am usually unable to give, especially if the request is not in English.  I tried to help someone get to a train station yesterday, but my pointing and Spanish did not do a thing.  The guy who asked me this morning kinda laughed and shrugged when I told him in English that I was a tourist and did not speak Portuguese.

I enjoyed the museum.  Compared to other Roman sites, I have visited, it's offerings are modest, but it doesn't cost much and the exhibits are well presented even if they have to be eked out by some works by local artists.  Across the street is a related archeological site that you could peek into for free.

I started for home.  It is NOT easier going down hill, and my knees still haven't forgiven me for that day in Naples when I had to take five billion stairs down when the metro stopped working.  I decided to take another route home, so I could see a bit more of the city and go window licking.  So it was a nice albeit shorter day out.

And now it's time for Apero.  Today's offering is some toast (I found really good Portuguese bread!) with some of that cheese from the gourmet shop and a little vinho blanco DOC from Alentejo.  Very nice.  For dinner I'm going to have some more of this wine with some linguine I intend to mix with some tuna conservas.  It's packed in olive oil so that adds to the flavor and makes a nice sort of sauce.  I know it doesn't sound like much, but good ingredients make it special.

There's another bike race on, but it doesn't start until later--and there's rain in the forecast.  Wheee!

Belem: Palacio Nacional de Ajuda

 Bom Dia,

Although I got some decent sleep I woke up with a vivid nightmare where I went to the airport and managed to do everything wrong.  I left too late for my early flight and then despite increasingly desperate attempts, I could not find my gate.  Then I knew I'd missed my fight, but I couldn't find anyone to help me rebook.  It took me a few seconds to sort myself out once I realized I was awake

I'm writing my blog while listening to a bike race.  It's Il Lombardia, one of those loooong one-day races.  I could go out and not have to rush back knowing there would be a lot of race to go when I got home.  I'm looking forward to the showdown between Jonas Vingegaard and Tadej Pogacar, their first race meeting since Jonas trounced Tadej in the Tour de France.  Tadej won the race last year, so he may have the edge this time.

I had to take a bus to reach my target, but the ride there and back went without a hitch.  This is a rare and precious event! In fact the bus dropped me off right outside the Palace.  This is the place the Portuguese Royal Family built for themselves after the earthquake damaged their former home.  It is magnificent and built in a Neo Classical style. Hot puppies! I thought, this is going to be good.

I found the entrance and got my ticket--asking for the senior discount.  I had to go through security, and at first they weren't going to let me take my umbrella in, but after inspecting it, they relented.  I scanned my ticket to get in and took the elevator up to the third floor where I found the Royal Treasures.

The exhibit hall was kept very dark, but what I saw was the Royal Regalia of Portugal, plus a lot of glittering gems, giant nuggets of gold, orders of honor and a lot of such like.  This was nice.  I was there for the state rooms.  Where were they?

And I looked.  I followed the arrow for the North Hall.  It was bare and blocked off. I tried other floors.  Nada.  No signs.  So I made for the exit feeling that I had come a long way for very little.  I had to scan my ticket to get out.  It's a security measure to keep track in case someone wants to hide in the museum and make off with some of those treasures.

I'm having green tea with my apero of olives and Portuguese ham.  The latter is sooo goood!  But it's also so fatty I feel naughty eating it.  I'm hoping that the green tea will counteract some of the saturated fat.

Bye for now

P.S.  Tadej takes it!

Belem: Museu Nacional dos Coches

 Bom Dia, 

Let me take a bite of apero first. It's some of that fancy, somewhat stinky cheese I got at the gourmet store.  I put it on toast and it melted.  Mmmmmm.  Very good!  It has a semi sharp, complex flavor.  I'll take a sip of the Vinho Verde Rose.

Now for the day's activities.  I had some chores to take care of like toping off my travel card and going to the grocery store.  Then I walked down Rua de Augusta to get the tram at Praca do Comercio.  I did not have to wait long.  I wear a mask on public transportation.  There are always a few of us who do.  Some conductors came around to do a ticket check, and some tourists without ticket struggled to get them from an apparently malfunctioning machine.  One can get ticket on board.  It's cheaper and easier to get them beforehand.

The trip to Belem is long and kind of boring, but worth it. I was lucky to be on a tram that displayed stops, so I knew just where to get off.   All I had to do is cross the street and I was there.  I started at the old museum, and it was nice because I had it to myself.  The ticket guy kept asking me if I wanted a combo ticket to see boats. Uh no. I have no interest in boats.  Then I figured out he was saying both and offering me a combo ticket as the museum comes in two parts.  He also asked me if I was over 65 and wanted a senior discount.  Yes, I did, but I was a little irritated that I didn't have to ask and provide proof of age.

I get a huge kick out of coaches, and the exhibit is well displayed.  Most of the coaches in both museums belonged to the Royal Family of Portugal, and oh boy, are they grand and elaborately decorated.  And also maybe hellish to ride in over rough tiled and cobbled streets before the development of effective suspension.  The old museum is in a vast and beautiful room with an upstairs gallery with portraits of the Royal Family.  I did not know who most of these people were, but it was still fun.

I crossed the street to the new museum where most of the tourists started.  I marveled at the size and grandeur of the coaches and wondered how many horses it would take to pull the thing along even at a slow pace.  The decorations on all the royal and noble coaches is highly symbolic and is meant to send a message to the awestruck viewers about the power and virtue of the occupants.

There are less elaborate vehicles meant for tooling around town on display as well.  Royal children had miniature versions for going about the gardens of their palaces.  Many of the "modern," i.e. Nineteenth Century couches were designed and built in London, but one especially fancy version belonged to Pope Clement XI.

I got the tram back feeling very satisfied with my excursion.

All I wanted was for the trash and recycling taken out.  Now I'm getting clean sheets which is a good thing I guess and clean towels, and heaven knows what else.  How long is this going to take?  The ladies were very nice even though I cannot understand a word of Portuguese, but my floors are wet, but I guess it's good to have everything clean although I would have done it myself or most of it.

For dinner I am having microwaved potatoes doctored up with seasoning and sardine pate.  This is actually better tasting that it sounds.  Pink Vinho Verde goes well with it.

Here's the rePORT!  Ha ha ha ha ha ha. It's ruby port, which is the kind I am most familiar with.  Yes, it taste's familiar. There's nothing special about this, but I am not dealing in anything vintage.

Bye for now.

The History of Money

 Bom Dia,

My apero is a slice of that fancy pants ham from pampered pigs.  It sure is good, but it's chewy and so loaded with saturated fat that I decided to have some green tea with it.

So there's always something, especially when you get to be my age.  One of my ankles was wonky, but I still had a good day out.  I walked a lot, but I was fine.

Fortunately Lisbon is packed with interesting sites.  I made my way to Largo de Sao Juliao to a center sponsored by the Bank of Portugal.  I find it interesting that Portuguese banks are involved in history.   The Millennium Bank offers the archeological site I tried to visit yesterday,  By the way they sent me a nice email apologizing and explaining that yesterday was a national holiday.  Both exhibits are free.

I had to go through a security check for the first time in a Portuguese museum, and then I entered a space of Baroque Splendor.   The place used to be the Church of Sao Juliao, and it's impressive.  One enters the museum itself though a mocked up bank vault.  Inside the visitor is provided with information and a ticket.  As I mentioned entrance is free, but the ticket is used for the interactive features of the museum.  One thing the nice young man at the service desk pointed out to me is an enormous gold bar.  Visitors are invited to touch it, and I did contemplating the 700,000 Euro value of the thing.  Hooeee.  This is my closest encounter with this kind of object.

Then upstairs for historical money.  There's an impressive collection of coins from the earliest use of money in Lydia in Western Asia through the Greeks and Romans.  They even have early Han Dynasty tokens from Ancient China as well as examples of coins and notes from other Dynasties. Then if you care to, you can use your ticket to take quizzes about the Portuguese economy and the European Central Bank.  I did not do well.  I also enjoyed the extensive exhibit of banknotes from all over the world--except apparently North America.  The United States has comparatively dull money.

The other feature of the museum is the remains of a city wall built in the 1200s by King Dinas.  I had never heard of him, but he is a major figure in Portuguese History and having become king at age 12 enjoyed a long and successful reign.  He built the way to protect the waterfront of the River Tejo from pirates as the city had begun to expand far beyond its Moorish Walls, and my neighborhood of Baxia was being developed.

Then I strolled around and licked windows at the numerous touristy shops.  Portugal has gorgeous ceramics mostly impossible to pack, but I like looking.  I'm thinking of treating myself to a pair of candlesticks.

But now for a Port Report.  Ha ha ha ha ha.  SometimesI just crack myself up.

I'm glad someone appreciates your humor.

Today's offering is White Port.  I have never had it.  In fact I've never heard of it.  Sip.  It smells and tastes like Tawny Port.  It's mot bad, but it's not something I'd cross the street for either.

Bye for now

Portuguese Delicacies

 Bom Dia,

I like Portuguese food and drink, and my treats make up for a rather disappointing day.  I'm fine.  I just didn't have the confidence for a forty minute tram ride.  But I came across a site about three minutes walk from my place, and it sounded very cool.

Under a bank lies a major archeological site with many layers dating back to the iron age through the Romans and Moors.  Fun what?  I went to the web site and signed up for the tour.  I was told I'd be notified soon.  The form required my phone number and email.  Did I get a notice?  No.  I thought I might have screwed up the reservation, so I did it again.  Same.  No notice.

I walked down the place, which is really quite close and found everything shut tight including the bank.  I wondered if this was some kind of holiday, so it was closed.  Well, that was disappointing, but Lisbon is fun to walk around, and I resolved to visit some gourmet shops and shell out some Euros on fancy foods.  I'll try the archeology another day.  Fortunately I have a lot of time here.

Let's start with my apero.  When I planned my trip, I vowed to try bacalhau, which is dried salt cod and the National Dish of Portugal.  I have come across it in the form of large slabs of fish fillet.  They smelled fishy, and I would have had no idea what to do with the thing even though there are apparently hundreds of ways to serve the stuff, and I could always google.  Today I found a more user friendly type in the form of bacalhau pate conveniently packaged in small serving sizes.  I toasted some of that good bread I bought and spread it on.

What's it like Pil?

It's definitely fishy, but not too strong.  It's not my favorite thing, but it's definitely edible, and maybe I'll acquire the taste.  I have to say it goes well with my vinho blanco.  I also have small green olives that are very tasty and some almonds.

At another shop I got some Portuguese ham--the kind that comes at 60E a kilo.  But of course I got a much smaller portion.  We can sample it another day along with the fancy cheese I picked out.  I also obtained a sampler of Port.  I'm going to wait until after dinner, but I will report (heh heh re Port!).

Yeah, Pil, you slay us.  Sigh.

Dinner was linguine with smoked salmon sauce, and it was really good. I will definitely get another tin even though it's expensive.  Now let's have a sip of tawny port.  I got a pack of small bottles with various styles of port.  The smell very alcoholic, but the sip is nice. A mild flavor, which is rather fruity, but not grapey. It's nice. Port is fortified wine, so one does not have much of it.  But the sample bottles are small and the right size. 

Bye for now.

Sorry--No Tourist Action Today

 Bom Dia,

I have succumbed to a common digestive issue that afflicts travelers, so I had to scrap my plans for today. Sometimes this happens, and I have no idea why. But I also know I'll be fine.  I have two more weeks here, so losing a day, while annoying, isn't a catastrophe.  Later in the afternoon I felt able to go to the cash machine and the grocery store.  

And I am having an apero in the shape of a hard boiled egg and some smoked salmon conserva.  The stuff is expensive, but it's very good.  The smoke is mildish.  If my digestive system does not object I can proceed to dinner.

Bye for now

Belem: Museu Colecao Berardo

 Bom Dia,

Let's get straight to apero, shall we?  I stopped at a shop on my way home and picked up a cod cake with cheese.  I just had a bite.  Pretty darned tasty.  You have to like fish and cheese.  I do.  At the grocery store this morning I was tempted by some Vinho Verde, but mine is rose.  It's turned hot and humid, so this should be especially refreshing.  Shall we have a sip?

You say "we" a lot, but you selfishly keep all this food and drink for yourself.  Phooey.

Mmmm.  I'm afraid I didn't hear you.  I'm too immersed in this delicious Portuguese specialty.  The fish cake is slightly crunchy, but then one gets too the ooey gooey cheese filling.  Yumsy.  I'm trying to work up to bacalhau, which is the dried salt cod.  It's kind of scary really, and smells very fishy.

I topped up my travel card and strolled down to Praca do Comercio where I picked up (a modern) Tram 15E that would take me to Belem.  I'll be going there a lot this week because there are some major historical sights that are on Lisbon's must see list.  It was kind of a long ride out, and I wasn't sure where to get off, but I recognized a historical landmark that I intend to visit tomorrow when it's open, that I was pretty sure was near my target.  I was right and after a bit of a walk I came upon the Museu Colecao Berardo.

It was my first stop in Belem because it's Monday and most museums are closed.  This one is dedicated to Twentieth Century art and was the brain child of zillionaire banker Jose Berardo.  Apparently the museum is not well known, but the collection and display are impressive.  Placards in Portuguese and English introduce and describe each style.  The visitor is directed through the exhibit in chronological order, so it's like a course on Modern Art History.  I found this very useful.  The collection includes at least one work by most of the major artists of the mid and late Twentieth Century.

Good examples of Abstract Expressionism, Cubism, Dada, Surrealism as well as Pop Art are on offer.  Now my tastes run more towards Renaissance and Baroque, but I found some of the works very compelling. For some reason I can't fathom the geometric works of Malevich and Modrian speak to me.  Go figure.

I found the tram stop and came back and snooted around a few touristy shops near Parca do Comercio, but it was hot and humid, and I was getting hungry.  We'll be visiting Belem again tomorrow.

And that cod cake with cheese was really good.  I'll have to go back for more.

Bye for now

I'd Move In!

Bom Dia

Let me settle in with my apero.  We're having an egg for protein and some nice, salty almonds and a few sips of some nice Portuguese white wine.

I filled my travel card at the metro station and stopped to help some fellow North Americans, and then proceeded to the tram station.  Trams are fun to ride.  The ones made for those steep, narrow streets are not efficient, and our journey was impeded by a car parked on the tracks.  The driver rang the bell politely, but the car did not move through increasing irate bell rings.  Finally the car moved off, and we were on our way.  But the tram was packed!  I was sitting in front, and the exit is in the back.  The tram was so packed that I did not make it to the exit in time.  I had to get off at the next stop, which fortunately was not too far away.  The result, though, was that I was turned around, and had a hard time finding my target.

This worked out though because the museum can be visited only with a guided tour, and one was just about to start.  It's called the Museum of Decorative Arts, but this is a little misleading.  The building is former nobleman's townhouse, and it was bought by a wealthy banker, who had begun his fine art/antiques collection at age sixteen. I used to teach high school and can attest that even rich American teenagers do not do this.  The museum now houses his entire and very impressive collection and consists of a series of period rooms mostly Seventeenth and Eighteenth Century.  Now I far prefer period rooms to exhibits in glass cases.  I want to see the art and furniture in context and get a glimpse of how the other .01% lived.

Our guide was pleasant and very well informed and great at calling our attention to a telling detail and putting the collection in historical context.  For example there is a lot of both genuine and fake Chinoiserie.  Artists from China and Japan made pieces for wealthy Europeans to order, but if that was too much for your pocket book, European artists churned out semi convincing "Asian" pieces.

I spotted a portrait of Catherine of Braganza.  She is one of my favorite Portuguese figures as I am both a student of British History and dedicated tea drinker.  Catherine was sent to Britain to marry King Charles II, who treated her with courtesy and kindness except for all his other women.  But Catherine did have. lasting impact on British Culture.  She introduced tea to the court, and the population soon followed in consuming this elixir of life.

I learned some things.  The Moorish custom of having women sit on the floor on cushion while men sat on chairs survived for centuries after the Christians took over.  Noblewomen would have beautiful little tables made with short legs, so they could put down their tea cups or fans.  If I could have fit one of them in my luggage, I would have made off with it.

Afterwards I found the tram stop and came back.  I took the Famous 28 back, and, yes, it was crowded, and the day had turned hot. But I was very satisfied with the day's activity.

I'm going to have linguine and tuna fish again.  It was a successful combination.

Bye for now

I Got a Good Walk Anyway

 Bom Dia,

I decided to give myself an easy day after my exertions yesterday.  I identified a target museum nearby--one that featured historic design.  Sounded fun!  And then I planned to spend some money on fancy canned fish.

First I went to the ATM.  Now Lisbon is rife with ATMs.  It seems like there's one on every block--just like the pastry shops.  They are everywhere. But they are stand alones, and I don't quite trust them, so I went to the one by the bank and got my infusion of Euros.  Then I headed to the grocery store for some supplies.  I dropped them off and headed out.

Lisbon is a wonderful walking city, and I found plenty of windows to lick and future opportunities to spend quite a bit of money.  The goods are good.  But I could not find the museum.  I walked the length of the street.  I wondered if I'd mistaken the street and tried others.  I went back home to consult the guidebook and pin point the location on the map.  It just wasn't there.

Fine.  Time for Conservas.  Conservas are the tinned fish--in many varieties and styles that are a famous and highly valued product of the Iberian Peninsula.  Since I more or less follow the Mediterranean Diet, I eat a lot of fish anyway. The shop was floor to ceiling tins of fish and there was more downstairs.  I had a good look around.  One of the shop assistants offered me information and asked where I was from.  Upon hearing I was from the United States he said, "I wish I could go to the United States, but I'm stuck in Portugal."  Uh.  Some of us don't see it that way.  I never know what to say to Europeans who wish to come to the U.S.  "Oh honey," probably wouldn't go over well.

The young woman who rang up my order was charming.  She gave me stickers for my tins and was thrilled when I gave exact change.  I try to do this if I can because some one in Paris last spring mentioned a coin shortage.  She also gave me an enthusiastic wine recommendation. The best known Portuguese wine, apart from Port, is Vinho Verde (which is a white wine with a green tint), and you can find it at Trader Joe's among other places.  Anyway she wanted me to try a particular region, which produces a Vinho Verde that is dry and especially fruity.  So I'll look for it.

Hey, Pil, what did you buy?

Well, I played it safe this time.  I got some smoked salmon and fancy tuna, but I intend to branch out.  Gotta get those Omega 3s

My apero is the rest of the ham and some green olives I got at the grocery store.  Beware the pits.  I also have to finish off the red wine before it goes bad.  I haven't decided what to have for dinner.  It probably won't be exciting.

Since I don't have a museum to report on, I'll discuss the city.  I knew very little about Lisbon before I came and did some minimal research and picked a place to stay pretty much at random.  And I got lucky because this area is the best place to stay for a tourist.  It's very walkable, and I can get to most places on foot.  The buildings are beautiful. Some are covered in painted ceramic tiles.  It's touristy, which is fine with me--I'm a tourist, and some of the shops are positively elegant.  I can easily find anything I need within a very short walk. I have not encountered a Portuguese person who did not speak excellent English, and they have all been kind and gracious. 

Drivers are very polite to pedestrians and will stop to let one cross the street even if they have the green light!  I was bewildered by this at first.  Also at crosswalks with traffic lights, what I call Paris Rules are in effect.  If the light is red, but there is no on coming traffic, go ahead and cross.

In short, I'm glad I came.  Truthfully, I was anxious about plunging into an unknown place and was sorely tempted to return to a city I was familiar with.  Going somewhere new was a decided challenge, and I am very happy that I took it up.

Bye for now

Tramming to a Castle

 Bom Dia,

When I visit Europe there is nothing I like better than visiting a castle.  I'm talking about true fortress, which may or may not be in various states of ruin.  I spotted Castelo Sao Jorge on one of my walks and instantly said to myself, "I have to go there."  So I did.  Now theoretically it is possible to walk to said castle, but let's be real here.  Serious castles are built on hilltops for surveillance and defense.  Walking miles up hill is not fun, especially when there is an alternative mode of transport that is fun.

Lisbon is famous for its trams. Some are modern and sleek like those in other European cities like Nice and Munich, but the trams that ply the steep narrow streets in Central Lisbon are small and look like antiques.  The most well known route is Tram 28E, but it's always packed with tourists and reportedly infested with pickpockets, so I opted for Tram 12 E which takes the same route.  But it's pretty well known, too, so I had to wait because the first tram got filled up.  Quite a few people put on masks for the public transport.

But first I had to provide myself with a ticket.  One can buy a ticket (for a higher price) on board, but I did not want to do this.  I walked over to my local metro stop.  Now when I bought my metro ticket on first arrival I took an option I did not understand, which turned out to be the right one.  My ticket can be topped up, and it's laughably easy to do using the machine.  I just need to find one that takes cash.

The tram ride is justly considered an experience in itself.  The streets are so narrow and steep!  And the tram is a rattletrap, but it's a great way to see new Lisbon neighborhoods.  I got off at the correct stop and admired the view, then headed up hill.   In true Pil fashion I got turned around and took the long way up.  There was a long line to get a ticket, but that was Ok because I could catch my breath.  I also scored a senior discount, which I take advantage of when one is on offer.

The hill top was originally fortified by the Moors, but I am convinced that the Lusitanians had a hilltop fort there first.  The Kings of Portugal made the castle their royal seat and remodeled it.  The place was abandoned as a royal residence after the Great Earthquake.  Very little remains of the past splendor, but there's plenty to see in one's wanderings.  For one thing the views over the city are spectacular!  The curtain wall and the inner keep are in good shape.  You could climb some towers and walk on the walls.  You can encounter peacocks and stroll among olive trees.  It was cool and breezy, and I was delighted by my choice.

I walked down hill to get the tram back.  My legs are going to ache tomorrow, but it was worth it.

I really went to town on that Portuguese ham yesterday, so I'm going to cut back on the saturated fat today.  I hard boiled some eggs this morning and had one as my apero with the addictive Ginjia, which apparently pronounced Zhinzha.  I fear Portuguese pronunciation will defeat me.  This stuff is Very Very Tasty, but best consumed in small doses.

What's for dinner, Pil?

I brought some linguine with me, and I thought it would go well with some of that superior canned tuna I got.  The tuna is packed in olive oil to begin with, and I can doctor it up with some garlic powder and crushed red pepper flakes that I packed.  I'll wash it down with that nice white wine I got yesterday.

Bye for now

Down to the River

 Bom Dia,

Could this be any more perfect? I had an interesting day out and walked home in the gentle rain.  And I am about to have apero.  I do not know the Portuguese word for apero, but I'm guessing they use tapas for the concept as the Spanish do.  When I got here I saw numerous approving references to Ginja, which turns out to be a cherry liqueur wildly popular in the city.  The story is it's drunk from morning until night--something I tend to doubt, but let's have a sip.  Ooooh.  This is nice.  I'm not going to drink too much although I am tempted.  It's sweet and very fruity.  Not everyone would like it, but I do.

I went to the grocery store again to pick up things I was too jet lagged to remember yesterday.  Among the items I chose was a package of Portuguese ham. I rarely eat pork at home.  Most of the ham in the United States is an industrial product, and, although I reject being a food fanatic, I do object to inhumane treatment of animals.  They have better rules in the EU, and Iberia is famous for its fine ham, which is expensive because it comes from pigs allowed to range pretty freely.  I'm having some now, and it's very tasty and nice and salty.  Mmm.  There's nothing like European saturated fat! 

I wandered down Rue Augusta, this time going in the direction of the river. I passed under the arch into the grand plaza called Praca de Comercio surrounded by arcaded buildings.  Some are restaurants, and some government offices.  In the middle of the plaza is a monumental statue of King Joseph.  There are great views of the River Tagus and the city on the hills beyond.  In fact this was once the landing spot of foreign visitors and traders, and Lisbon would certainly have made a suitably grand impression.  What I enjoyed was the fresh air off the water.

I was there for the Lisbon Story Center.  It's a multimedia introduction to the history of the city.  I had trouble getting my earphones to fit and work, but I finally managed and made my way through the narrative.  We start with the Phoenicians and proceed from there with animations and models to illustrate, the Roman Period, the Moors and Crusades.  Most of the attention is given to Portugal's Age of Exploration, and (ahem) there is exactly zero mention of the evils of the colonial past and much glorification of the gifts of spice and knowledge Portugal gave to the world.  For my part the most vivid and interesting section was that dealing with the Great Earthquake of 1755 and its aftermath as the traumatized population struggled to comprehend what had happened to them.  The king was of no use.  He cowered in a luxurious tent he had erected, so the Marquis de Pombal stepped up, lead the recovery, and conceived of the new, modern (i.e. Enlightenment Rococo) Lisbon.

From there I went to the National Museum of Contemporary Art.  The museum owns a notable collection of European Twentieth Century Art, but choses to exhibit only Portuguese artists on a regular basis.  To be frank I had never heard of any of these artists, but I liked quite a bit of their art.  I especially liked the series of water colors of domestic interiors given a fanciful twist.

When I got out of the museum it had begun to rain, so up went my umbrella, and I trod warily.  Lisbon's sidewalks are all tiled, and I was afraid they'd be slick.  I was going down a pretty steep hill.  I'm getting to know my neighborhood, so I had no trouble finding my way home.

It's cooled down a lot and raining hard (I love it!), so I decided to have a hot meal of some tortellini I got at the store.  Yes, it's not Portuguese, but if anything is a universal European cuisine, Italian is.  The wine to go with it is Portuguese though--a white from Alentejo.  I don't buy expensive wine, but I never get a dud bottle.  I look for the protected denomination, which is a guarantee of quality.  It's nice and a bit off dry with a smooth taste and will go very well with food.

Bye for now

Primeiro Dia em Lisboa

Bom Dia!

I got a few hours sleep wearing the swank new pyjamas I got for my Paris trip--you know the ones on back order that didn't arrive in time.  I was too worn out yesterday to find a grocery store and food, but I did this morning and strolled around my neighborhood, Baxia, which is in the heart of the historic city.   

There were some things I forgot to mention yesterday.  Almost the first thing I do when flying internationally is find out the local time and then set my watch.  This time my watch refused to be set, and I broke several finger nails trying.  I'll just rely on my phone when I need to know the time.  The good news is that the USA is on the good list and a United States passport gets in the same line as European Union in Portugal and the Commonwealth in the UK.  Nice, what?

My apartment is very spacious.  I have a separate bedroom and here and there are traditional Portugese blue and white tile, which are original to the building, which dates from the Eighteenth Century.  The owners managed to put in a lift, so that's good.

There is a lot to see in Lisbon, and it's just fun to walk around.  I wondered if the city would remind me a bit of Vienna as both were once Imperial Capitals whose global reach has diminished drastically.  I visited a Museum of Antiquities located in the former Convent of Carmo.  One can get there by paying to take an elevator, but some of us use trips to Europe as our fitness plan so I walked uphill.  The church was devastated in the great earthquake of 1755.  One enters the museum through the roofless nave that now forms. courtyard sculpture garden.  The exhibits are labeled in English and range from prehistory up to the Renaissance.  Most of the exhibits are in the gothic chapels which survived the collapse.

I went on to see a church--the only one in Lisbon--that did survive the quake. Lisbon is hilly and to get there I walked down five flights of stairs.  I have a feeling I'm going to be going up and down a lot while I'm here. I crossed the plaza where I expected to arrive by the airport bus.  The church of Igreja San Roque is Iberian Renaissance style with an impressive vault and a glittering altarpiece.  The museum next door exhibits the art work from the church as well as relics.

I'm still jet lagged so this was about as much as I was good for.  I headed for home following Rua de Augusta from the Place do Dom Pedro V.  It's pedestrianized and provides much opportunity for window licking.

You got groceries, Pil.  What are we having for dinner?  And by the way, you don't speak Portuguese so how are you coping with the language?

Muy facile, amigos mios.  For one thing a lot of folks in Lisbon speak excellent English.  I cannot understand a word of spoken Portuguese, but I can read Spanish reasonably well, and so written Portuguese is pretty easy to figure out.  I had no trouble with the grocery store. I grabbed a bottle of red from the shelves.  It's vinho tinto from the Duoro Valley and is a protected denomination.  It's a pretty ruby color and smells nice. Sip. Very tasty, and not at all expensive.  Pro tip.  Always pack wine stoppers if you travel like I do.  I got some canned tuna, and before you turn up your nose and mutter Starkist at me, you need to know that Iberia is famous for its canned fish, and there are fancy shops in Lisbon that sell nothing else.  The quality is very high even for the grocery store stuff, but I am sure going to attend a fancy shop with vintage tins.  I got some Portuguese white cheese, which I semi melted on some toasted bread.  The bread is terrific by the way.  This improvised open face sandwich is lovely with the red wine.

Bye for now

Delays and Detours

 I got here, and I'm showered and rehydrating with some decaf green tea.  But boy this was a hard one.

The smoothest part of the trip was my pick up to the airport.  I woke up feeling lousy, but not actually sick, and all I had to do was sit in vehicles.  I completed my organizing and packing.  When I was picked up I asked the driver how hot it was.  It was 90F.  I felt glad I was going to a cooler place

I checked in, found my gate.  Then came the first delay.  The flight crew was caught behind a traffic accident, so the flight left about 45 minutes late.  No biggie.  The flight was pleasant.  My seat mate was quiet and wore a mask as did I.  The in flight meals were even good.  I am not in to hard liquor but one of my travel rituals is when I fly a British company to have a gin and tonic before dinner.  Very refreshing.

We arrived at Heathrow.  I like to snoop around duty free, but I was concerned about my connection.  I was rather forcibly directed to a certain area.  Ok. Passport control.  I'm used to this.  Only it wasn't for connecting travelers as I found once I got through.  This path led to baggage claim and the exit.  I asked and was told to go to departures up stairs.  An airline employee thought I was ok and just to go through security.  She was right, but security was backed up.  It made me wonder if there was an intelligence warning because I got searched and wanded (I tend to think sort of thing is funny) and a lot of people had their carry on luggage pulled aside for searches.  I also learned that one is allowed only one baggie full of TSA compliant toiletries and watched as women tried stuffing everything in one bag.  Not all succeeded.

I didn't have a lot of time left, but the gate wasn't showing so I sat down with my computer.  This place does not have 24 hour reception and I doubted I'd arrive when they were open, so I reviewed and wrote down instructions and directions.  I figured I take the airport bus.  We boarded.  Then there was some kind of toxic waste accident near the plane, and we couldn't move until it was cleaned up.  This delayed the flight for an hour, but once we got underway it was fine.  We just had to park in the middle of nowhere and have a mobil deplaning device and shuttle buses.  I got my luggage was was off.

I found the airport bus stop but no way to buy a ticket so I went as asked at Tourist Information, and I'm glad I did because the airport bus was not running at all.  I went and found the metro and got a ticket from the machine, and found the train.  European metro systems are easy to use unless one is burdened with luggage, and the reason the metro was not my first choice is that I had to change trains and not all the stations have escalators or elevators, so I struggled on the stairs.  A couple of very kind people took pity on me and helped out.  I was so grateful!

But at my destination, I was lost.  I'd written down directions from the bus, and I got really turned around with the metro.  After wandering futilely I asked at a news stand.  The lady didn't know where the street was but kindly figured it out from my map, and here I am.

But the saga does not end there.  I used the entry code to enter and then proceeded to automatic check in, but my credit card was rejected!  That was kind of the last straw.  I did have and use my debit card, and the machine liked that better.

Despite all this I liked what I saw of Lisbon so far, and now that I'm well settled in I can begin to enjoy the city.

Charles de Gaulle--Waiting to Board

 Bon jour, mes amies,

I left very early, which meant I was up most of the night packing, etc.  Pretty much right outside my aparthotel is an elevator down to the Paris Metro System.  I did not even have to mess with an escalator.  My trip here went very smoothly.

I found my check in place, managed to use the automated system to print out my boarding pass and luggage tag.  I got in line to check in when the fun began.  The man was very polite, but insistent.  The negative covid test I so proudly presented was not valid.  I got it Monday because I am used to the tests taking a couple of days.  Well, they don't do that in France.  I needed a test the day before or the day of, so I had to get a retest.

This was actually not bad.  I was directed to a tent outside.  I did not have to wait in line, and the results were ready in fifteen minutes.  Negative, of course.

So then I checked in and took the shuttle to L terminal and went through security.  CDG is getting strict.  We did not have to take off our shoes, but they wanted to see my compliant liquids (which haven't been checked for years) and even my kindle (for the first time ever).  I'm used to pulling out my computer, but they also wanted it out of its case.

I stopped in a duty free for a quick squirt of expensive scent.  I have to tell you wherever I am going at whatever airport it is, my departure gate is always, ALWAYS at the furthest reaches of the terminal.  But I'm going to be sitting for a long time, so it's good to get in some walking.

Au revoir!

Update: I am home and jet lagged out of my mind.  I have not slept for more than 24 hours.  Once I got to Los Angeles things went smoothly.  But my boarding did not.  The machine rejected my boarding pass, so I had to go through an extensive security check.  The people were very polite and respectful, and naturally I cooperated, but what was up with that.  On board a very nice young man offered to heft my bag up and down, so that was nice.

Musee de Cluny: Art of the Middle Ages

 Bon jour, mes amies,

You will be relieved to know that my Covid test situation has been sorted.  My birthdate was entered incorrectly and apparently was easy to fix.  The lovely young woman from the pharmacie even printed out my negative test results.  I should be good to go.

The Musee de Cluny is one of my favorites in Paris, so I was disappointed to learn on arrival that it was closed.  But it has now reopened, and I went for a visit after I dealt with the pharmacie and visited my bakery.  I knew I did not have to rush back for the stage because it's starting a bit later.

I had to cross the Seine and walk a bit up hill, but it was easy to find.  I got there a little after opening and had to wait in line, but once inside the place did not seem crowded.  The museum is in the heart of the Latin Quarter, not far from the Sorbonne.  The site incorporates an old Roman bath, which in the Middle Ages was adapted into a monastery.  Unfortunately the lovely herb garden was closed, but the rest of the museum was definitely worth the visit.

In my Art History teaching days, I developed a taste for Late Medieval Art, and Cluny has some outstanding examples in a variety of media.  You can also find some extremely fine works from the Early and High Middle Ages.  The ivory carvings and enamel work are amazing--some so small and detailed.  Also on exhibit is some statuary salvaged from various churches, including Notre Dame de Paris.

The Late Medieval Art is the most spectacular in my view.  I saw polychrome sculptures, energetic, action packed wood carvings. There were some wonderfully preserved ceramics, and also vivid paintings and intricate tapestries.  Of course, what people come to see is the Lady and the Unicorn, an allegory of the five senses in an exquisite tapestry.  Ok, the lion sometimes looks like a monkey, and no one knows what the little dogs are for, but it's lovely.

I took an indirect route home so I could wander down those narrow twisty streets I like so well.  But it is hot today, so I sought the shady sides of streets and was glad to get back to my room and a big glass of water.

My reflections on this trip are as follows:  I'm glad I came.  This has not been the best trip ever, but I have come back to Europe and am getting my travel habits back, and I got a lot of good walking in.  It has done me personally a world of good to go out every day and be in the world.  Yes, I wore my mask and drank green tea, so I took precautions when the French and most tourists seem to believe the Pandemic is over (hint, it's not), but I enjoyed myself and gained back my confidence.

Now I need to figure out my packing.  I won't say A demain, but if I get a chance to post from Charles De Gaulle, I will.

Merci pour votre participation. Au Revoir!

A Covid Test and Some Hunting and Gathering

 Bon jour, mes amies.

As I was making my way home, to my delight it began to rain.  Experience has taught me always to carry an umbrella in Europe, so up it went.  The day was warm and the rain gentle.  Lovely. 

Il Giro is having a rest day, so I did not need to hurry back for the stage, but I am enjoying some nice green tea, and soon I'll have apero.  I need to use up those olives.

Overnight Paris experienced a thunderstorm.  I was asleep and my room has a heavy curtain over the window, but I still saw the lightening flash.  I knew what it was, and after a few seconds came the thunder.  A bit of rain fell after a while.

So the streets were wet when I set out.  I strolled along Rue Saint Honore where I easily found the recommended pharmacy.  They are used to foreigners needing the test and were pretty fast and efficient.  I showed my passport and I had to pay, but not as much as I thought I would.  The technician stuck the q tip thing way, way up my nose.  Ugh!  But quick.  There's a hitch though. I got an email from the French Health Department.  I guess my results are ready?  But they won't accept my birthdate, so I'm going to have to go back to the pharmacy tomorrow morning and sort things out.  I'm pretty sure she did not write my birthdate down.

I circled back via my favorite bakery and picked up something for tomorrow's dinner.  I dumped it off and proceeded to Les Halles.  I'd scoped out a big store there that contained many good goodies for presents.  I got myself something, too.

This took a while, but I had plenty of time to stroll around in a leisurely way licking the occasional window and popping into promising shops.  My area abounds with narrow and sometimes twisty streets. so it's really fun to explore down them. 

And I did do something touristy today.  The Eglise de St Eustache is Right there, and I have never visited  it. so I went in today as it was open.  It's a flamboyant Gothic church and very beautiful, but there's a reason why it's not more famous.

There are some things that every visitor to Paris MUST do.  When I came here the first time I visited the Eiffel Tower and took a tour on a bateau mouche.  I would include another experience--Hot Chocolate at Angelina's.  I did this last time when they started staying open for the summer and had the Africane at the original site on the Rue di Rivoli.  It was expensive and the service was iffy, but the chocolate was so rich and gooey it made me feel a bit drunk.  The bottle I got at Galeries La Fayette was not quite like that, but it was close, and I had to eat it with a spoon.

A demain

A Sunday Stroll in the Marais

 Bon jour mes amies,

I came back early for the bike race, but also it was getting too hot and muggy for walking.  It's supposed to rain over night, but we'll see.  I seem to have brought Southern California with me because it's been very dry even when rain was in the forecast.

I went out early to get some cash and ran into a (charity?) run, which seemed like quite a big deal.  Hundreds of people wearing badges with different colors and numbers converged on Parc de Nelson Mandala, and there was a live band and all sorts of things going on.  They even had dozens of the French version of porta potties--with really long lines to use.  People with uniforms and flags directed and encouraged the participants.  Clearly from the runners, youth and fitness were not necessary qualifications, but they all looked enthusiastic.

Leaving my sweater behind, I set off for the Marais thinking that things might be a bit more lively there, and this was so.  More things were open, and I also had window licking opportunities.  It was nice to stretch my legs.

But here I am awaiting the stage and drinking green tea.  I'm going to have a apero dinatoire today.  This morning I had my croissant and the last of the divine butter.  I did a good job rationing it out and limiting consumption as I wished to focus more on cheese and foie gras for my French Saturated Fat Experience.  I have black and green olives with herbes de Provence, my tasty goat cheese, foie gras de canard, and plenty of rose, which is an AOC version from the South of France.

I am extremely puzzled as to why a major climb in the Heart of Italy is called Blockhaus.  Maybe the commentators will explain it.  The charming young man currently wearing the leader's jersey is likely to lose it today, but he had a good run and apparently enjoyed bossing the pelaton around.  I resorted to google to satisfy my curiosity, the name of the climb dates back to the bad old days of Austrian occupation before Italy was unified.  A notorious Austrian Commander held the mountain top as his stronghold and the name stuck. And finally the commentators explained it probably due to popular demand.

A demain

Back to Les Grandes Boulevards

 Bon jour, mes amies,

The bike race is starting later today, so I got in a good day of touristing.  I started out with some chores.  I went to get a croissant at the fancy bakery.  It's in the freezer.

Why don't you just get one fresh on Sunday morning?"

You'll find plenty of bakeries open on Sundays, but Julien is closed up tight, and anyway I eat early.  I also had to go to the grocery store.  A lot of things are closed on Sundays in Europe. I had to learn to plan ahead.

I also got a notice from Air France.  They need me to fill out a form stating that I have had a negative covid test.  I asked one of the nice young people at reception to print it for me.  It looks like Air France is willing to take my word for it, but I think U.S. Border Control is going to want proof.  Fortunately the staff here is familiar with the need and I was directed to a pharmacy where I can be tested on Monday.

Right now I am sipping green tea and awaiting the stage.

It was a nice day--good for walking--and as you may have noticed, I just like walking around the city.  Many of the buildings are beautiful.  They have shops on the ground floor and maybe offices on the first floor, but then there are apartments above.  I often wonder what it would be like to live in one.  I suspect chronic plumbing problems.

So it's nice to enjoy some sunshine and fresh air in a beautiful city with plenty of windows to lick and cute dogs to admire.  I took a new route via Rue Monmartre which winds around a bit, but then empties into Boulevard Monmartre, which changes its name it seems every two blocks.  I was soon walking on Boulevard Hausmann where I immediately came upon a flea market--what the French call Brocante.  It wasn't a big one, but there were a few fun looking things.  I don't buy what I can't pack though.

Yes, I was going back to Galeries La Fayette in particular the food store.  I thought rightly that it would be a good place to pick up some presents, but I had a good look around at everything.  I came upon a refrigerated case full of nothing but luxury appetizers.  Savory petite fours, anyone?  I am glad I didn't know about this before or my elderly digestion surely would have suffered overload.  I'm going to be content with olives, the last of the dolmas, and some Valencay cheese today.  I'll have some pasta for dinner. 

I did buy some things at Galeries La Fayette,  I found something I know that my friends like that came in packable form.  I also got something naughty that I can't pack, so I'll have to consume it here as soon as I figure out how.  

A demain

An update.  I was watching the race and almost dozing when my doorbell rang.  Usually my room is done on Sunday, but she showed up today.  I had to get dressed and vacate.  I took my lap top with me to watch the race, but I'm back now, and I decided to have a treat--the naughtiness I mentioned earlier.  I got some Angelina hot chocolate in a bottle and I heated it up in my microwave.  Hot chocolate madness!  So rich.

Opera Garnier

 Bon jour, mes amies,

Yes, I went back, and La Opera is definitely worth a visit.  Lavish is the word for this building. Napoleon III himself requested a grand opera house and chose Charles Garnier to design and decorate it.  The location was carefully chosen to take advantage of Baron Hausmann's reworking of Paris streets as it has its own grand avenue and is just off the Grandes Boulevards.  The building simply screams Second Empire grandiosity, and yet it manages to be beautiful and harmonious albeit overwhelming.

When I got there, a long line had already formed, and the site opened late.  I amused myself watching clueless visitors march up to the entrance.  They must have thought the rest of us were lined up for funsies.  The attendants directed them to the rear of the line.

The exterior is ornate with statues, pilasters, cornices, and reliefs.  There's an Art Historical term horror vacui. Every available surface has its decoration.  The outside does not compare with the interior which has all of those plus mosaics and frescos. I wondered how much gold leaf was employed.  Acres, I imagine.  One can rent an audio guide, but I did not.  While waiting to go upstairs (A school group of little kids had to be sorted out) a woman spoke to me in French.  I replied apologetically in English, "I'm a tourist."  She brightened.  "Me, too!"  She asked me to take a photo of her with her phone, and of course, I was happy to oblige.  Plenty of people have helped me out in just this way on my journeys.

I had a good wander.  A few of the boxes are open.  I got a good view (and photo) of the lovely Marc Chagall fresco in the central dome.  I also marveled at the various vestibules meant as a place for the fashionable world to gather before and after the performances.  Some costumes from past performances are on display.  A lot of us went out on the balcony that overlooks the Place and Avenue de la Opera for a great view of the chaos.

My trips there taught me to value the quiet and lack of bustle of my own neighborhood.  Driving in Paris must be a horror show.  I would not even take a taxi lest I die of fear.  I am astounded that there are not more accidents.  And if you need the police or an emergency vehicle--well, don't hold your breath.  They are stuck in traffic like everyone else.  A couple of Very Swank Hotels are in this area.  The rest are on the Champs Elysees.  I'll stick to Les Halles.

I hard boiled some eggs this morning and am having one with my apero.  I also stopped on the way back at my favorite fast food place.  You may be surprised I have one, but I have always enjoyed Pret a Manger.  Despite the French name it's a British outfit.  All the food is organic and fair trade, not to mention delicious.  I have never been disappointed.  As a bonus, they were one of the first food sellers to do social outreach to the homeless and hungry.  A few outlets exist in the United States and if you run across one, don't hesitate to stop in.  I got a Salad Nicoise Wrap to remind myself of all those Pan Bagnats I ate in Nice.  This one isn't authentic, but it sure is good!

A demain

Grandes Boulevard and Galeries La Fayette

 Bon jour, mes amies,

The title of the post was meant to be Opera Garnier, but this has been that kind of trip.  It was closed today.  I got a good look at the outside and took a photo, but I'll have to go back another day.  As it happens I have never been inside.

I am sorting myself out before the stage begins.  They will be back on the mainland of Italy.

I chose the Opera because it's on this side of the river, and while longish, the walk to it was flat and simple--just go down Rue Saint Honore and turn onto Avenue de la Opera, and one cannot miss the target.  It's that huge, ornate building at the end of the street.

But I started out the day with a trip to the Bourse where I could find my bank's French partner.  I like that particular place because I can go inside to use the ATM.  As it happens there was another branch on Avenue de la Opera, but I did not know that.

Avenue de la Opera is also lined with high end chocolate shops.  These stores are beautiful as are the wares, and correspondingly expensive.  I just licked the windows, but it would be rude to come to France and not eat their chocolate, and you know I am nothing but polite.

So after walking nearly all around that gigantic building, I found the ticket office closed.  Well, bummer.  But wait!  All is not lost.  Raising my eyes I saw that I was a block away from Galeries La Fayette.  I made my way there.  Now I actually did not go into the main department store.  Instead I attended the food hall.  Oh My Goodness.  The Galeries have really stepped up their game.  It's gorgeous and comprehensive and could rival Harrods.  There's a grocery store downstairs where the fruit, veg, wine, cheese, etc. are.  The ground floor is specialty counters, and yes, I did buy something. But pretty much anything your heart desired including caviar is on offer.  Legendary chef Alain Ducasse has his own brand of chocolate now.  The displays of everything are highly tempting and also pricey, but the quality is of the highest.

When I woke up this morning I realized I was Out Of Cheese--a horrid state of affairs that could not be allowed to continue.  I was willing to cheat on Rue Montorgueil with Galeries La Fayette, but they did not have the cheese I wanted, so I came home via my favorite cheese shop on the Rue.  I really like Rocamador, but I could not find it when I first got here.  I wonder if it's a seasonal product.  It's a young goat cheese that comes in delicate disks. I even eat the rind. I also got some Valencay because I love it so much.

I noticed in my wanderings an unusual police presence on the streets and coming home there were armed guards (with very serious looking weapons) who were patrolling the park around the Les Halles shopping center.  I'm guessing there was some kind of terrorist threat, but no one seemed to be concerned and we all carried on.

I am having a far more luxurious apero than usual.  I have olives with herbes de Provence, a disk of Rocamador, some foie gras, and a dolmas--I picked a few up at the Galeries.  There was a counter of Mediterranean Delights that simply screamed mezze or apero or whatever version takes your fancy.

Now for some bike racing.

A demain

Staying Local

 Bon jour, mes amies,

Let me take a sip of green tea.  I did not have a big touristing day, but some museums that were closed are going to reopen, and I'd like to visit them.  But meanwhile the stage is on.  A fairly obscure rider is in the leader's jersey, but he won it convincingly, and he's on a strong team, so I hope he can hold on to it for a while. He's from Spain and it's been seven years since a Spaniard has worn the pink jersey.

I went out for groceries this morning and then, since it was a warm and brilliantly sunny day. I strolled around my neighborhood.  I'm situated in the heart of a largely pedestrianized district.  One does have to beware of zooming bicycles, but I had a pleasant, refreshing stroll until I heard the stage calling me.  Subsequent stages will begin later, so I'll have time to shop and tourist around.

Il Giro is riding across Sicily, and apart from the race, I'm in for some lovely scenery and fascinating architecture.

But my neighborhood also presents some intriguing features.  The French have embraced foreign and fusion food.  Monoprix has a sushi bar!  I also see offers of "French tacos," but the photographs do not inspire me to try one.  They don't look anything like tacos, nor do they appear French.  On a previous trip I kept running across "American sandwiches," so I finally asked about them.  French takes on American food are usually good for a chuckle.  It was a hamburger with ketchup and then fries piled in the bun.   I have a Five Guys and a Burger King close by, but a lot of French non-chain places are big on burgers.  They are definitely a thing in Paris.  Thai food seems to be popular in Paris as well.

Well, that walking and talking about food has put me in the mood for Apero.  I have the last of my Livarot, some olives, and some foie gras.  I thought I'd better grab it while supplies last.

An Actual Rest Day

 Bon jour, mes amies,

An interesting morning.  The power kept going off for a minute or so, but then the internet would stay off for longer.  I have never had that happen in a hotel.  This went on for about half an hour.  The microwave clock still hasn't recovered.

I was really tired yesterday and slept a lot, but when I woke up, I didn't feel great.  Don't worry--no Covid here, it's my elderly and fragile digestion.  By the time I started to feel better, it was time for the bike race.

Speaking of cycling, in my wanderings around the city I come across adds for familiar companies.  Oh, they sponsor a cycling team!  Even Burger King is a minor sponsor of one of the teams.  The name is emblazoned across the riders' butts.

I have had some of the lovely, but stinky Livarot, and some olives, and now I'm going to recruit my forces with some green tea.  I'll probably have pasta for dinner.

The riders are going up Mount Etna in Sicily.  Evidently the (extremely) active volcano is a major tourist attraction.  It's one that I would gladly miss were I ever to have the privilege of visiting the island.

A demain

A Rest and Shopping Day

 Bon jour, mes amies,

I kind of want to apologize for my age, but I have decided it's not necessary.  I have been touristing pretty hard, so I want another easy day.  The trip has done me good.  In contrast to my habits at home, I have gone out every single day and done something--including today.  I get pretty fresh air--for a city--and some sunshine and healthful exercise.  But sometimes, I am just not in much of a mood to be a great traveller, and it's understandable when I am here for a longer time.

Of course I went out.  I had to go to Monoprix after the weekend.  And I did some shopping at Les Halles.  For one thing there's a giant pharmacy.  I find French pharmacies as fascinating as the grocery stores.  This one has EVERYTHING including high end skin care and cosmetics, but then most of them do. 

In addition pharmacists act as a kind of primary care physicians or at least physicians' assist.ants.  If you have health question, go ahead and ask.  They will either answer or refer you to the proper health authority.  Moreover, I am relieved that many pharmacies in my vicinity will offer covid tests.  I will need a negative test to reeenter the United States.

So I walked around Les Halles, and I attended Rue Montorgueil.  The cheese shops where closed but I found a rotisserie, and I pounced.

What they call poulet fermier is free range chicken. One feature of French food markets is these chicken being slow roasted on a rotisserie.  It is a bit on the pricey side, but so good.  I attended Rue Montorgueil today and got half a one.  I may just eat the whole thing.  It is so chickeny, and the meat is moist and tender, and so very tasty.  I'm only embarrassed that I can't turn the bones into stock.

I am replete with meat.

A demain

A Lazy Sunday in Paris

 Bon jour, mes amies,

I wonder what I look like to people.  I'm wearing a mask, my hair is a mess, and I don't dress very well, and yet I had person after person trying to press political pamphlets on me.  And they were picking me out of the crowd.  "Je suis touriste," I said, the horrible accent leading credence to my assertion.  I must exude essence of voter.  That part is accurate anyway.

The bike race started early today, and it's also the day my room gets done, so I'm downstairs, with my earbuds trying to follow the stage despite the people who need to be down here chatting.  I acquired some noisy neighbors last night, and these folks seem to be the same crowd--very sociable they are.  I brought down my mug and some almonds, so I can have a drink and snack later on.

I want to avoid taking the metro as much as possible, and I didn't want to go too far afield anyway, so I strolled down to the Palais Royale, which is a very pleasant place to stroll.  There is a colonnade lined with shops and cafes--and I shudder to think of what the rent for such a location must be.  None of them were selling anything I'd want anyway.  I observed an encounter between an English Bulldog and a Frenchie.  They seemed to get along.

The Palais Royale also has chestnut trees and rose gardens.  It's lovely.  The central fountain has an installation of plastic figurines of little green men.  I did take a photo.  And I came back via Rue Saint Honore, but I didn't come home yet.

I attended the street market on Rue Monmartre fascinated as usual by the offerings.  Then I walked up and down Rue Montorgueil plotting future purchases.  So it was a slow day, but I did walk more than ten thousand steps.

Now I'd like to focus on the stage.

A demain

Le Louvre Encore

 Bon jour, mes amies,

I had a much better experience.  I got there early, and there was already a longish line, which grew exponentially behind me.  But once they open the Louvre folks are efficient at getting visitors in.  I got to see most of what I wanted, and I didn't need to be in a hurry because the stage of the Giro starts later today.

I had determined that I was going to hit the highlights, and years of teaching Art History have given me the knowledge and eye to pick out the best.  There are a LOT of art works of all kinds in the Louvre, so one needs to direct one's attention wisely.  This meant climbing a lot of stairs.

I went to look at the the Venus de Milo.  I don't like the way she's exhibited.  When I first saw her she was at ground level, and I found the statue to be strikingly beautiful.  I'd seen photos, of course, but seeing her in person like that made me realize why she is so famous.  Now she's up on a pedestal, and I don't think the viewing angle is as effective.

Then off to the paintings.  The galleries were crowded, but they are also spacious, so it wasn't so bad.  Of course, everyone (but me) wants to see Mona, and I guess you have to at least once because it is a truly great painting  I tell people that they really need to see works of art in person because the photos do not convey the subtleties and power of the works, but I make an exception for the Mona Lisa.  The painting is small, you can't get close to it, and you're better off studying a high quality plate.  Also in the main gallery you can find Leonardos you can actually get a good look at like Virgin of the Rocks, St. John, the Virgin and St. Anne, and La Belle Ferronniere.

I'm not going to make a list of all the goodies I got to see, but I was satisfied and not too worn out and even had the gumption to visit the small Asian collection.

I came home via the fancy bakery on Rue St. Honore.  I wish to be a good and proper guest in whatever country I have the privilege to visit.  Here I am in Paris, and it's just plain rude not to eat pastry.  Now one good effect of the Pandemic is that it kept me away from sugar, and in previous visits I would have already been knee deep in macarons and chocolate.  It seems like there's a patisserie on every corner, so there's lots of temptation, but I managed to resist.  But I got a tartlette citron to have for desert because it's the polite and respectful thing to do.

I mean to have said tartlette for desert, but let's have a bite, so you can envy my tastebuds.  Mmmmmm.  There's a thin, sweet, buttery crust, and then the lemon custard filling so rich and creamy.

In other news, I was lucky to get foie gras when I did.  France has been swept by an epidemic of bird flu, which has killed a lot of geese and ducks.  I imagine the shortages will soon become evident.  Michelin starred restaurants are already responding to the crisis.  Only in France, I suppose.

Musee Eugene Delacroix

 Bon jour, mes amies,

I'm back early for two reasons. One, I thought I deserved an easy day, and two, I wanted to be back for the bike race because Il Giro d'Italia starts today--in Hungary even though it's the Tour of Italy, but they'll end up in Italy next week.  I have not been able to watch this race for years, so I'm excited.  I am a major cycling fan and know the terms in five languages.  If I seem distracted while composing the blog you'll know why.

I mostly like Eugene Delacroix's work, and I thought that a visit to his old house would be easy and fun, and it's on the museum card.  I consulted google maps and worked out a route.  Being me, I missed my turn and took the long way around.  Also being me and a woman of my age, I sometimes develop an urgent need for facilities.  In the United States finding them is easy, but this is Paris.  I ended up going into a nice looking hotel and asking humbly, and I was directed very kindly to what I needed.  Parisians can be very gracious.

The Musee Eugene Delacroix is not very imposing.  It sits in a corner of  pleasant quiet square, and the artist lived and worked there for many years.  After his death, his friends had to move fast to keep the house from being torn down.  The museum is not very large because he lived in a smallish house with a garden.  One enters into a courtyard and then into the house.  The visit starts up stairs and from there one goes outside to his small studio and then the lovely garden full of roses, which was designed and planted by Delacroix himself.

His grand works are in other places.  I'll be seeing some tomorrow at the Louvre if all works out.  What is mostly on display are works he did for fun or to develop some techniques.  He was a tremendously skilled artist, so even his scribblings have a life and power to them.  I would not mind having any of them on my wall at home.  He was also fascinated or even obsessed with tigers and other big cats.

Evidently they want to encourage visitors, so even if you don't have a museum pass, your admission to the Louvre also includes this museum.

I got back in plenty of time to drink water, make some green tea (research suggests it bolsters the immune system, and I'll take all the help I can get), and take my shoes and contact lenses off.  For apero I have a hard cooked egg and some olives to go with my kir royale.  I'll have tuna for dinner.

Ok. Citadines needed to test their alarm system.  When I looked outside, a very nice young man reassured me everything was ok.

The Latin Quarter and Luxembourg Gardens

 Bon jour, mes amies,

It's starting to cloud over, and now that I'm back home getting ready for apero, I'd love it if it would rain.  But the forecast says there's only a miniscule chance.

I'm getting used to the cool mornings. This May so far has not been very warm, but I guess the walking does me good.  I set out for the Pantheon, and I got there with no problem, it being a fairly straight shot across the river--although I did have to climb a hill.  And the Pantheon is impossible to miss.  It's huge!

First some history because it's my blog, and you know you are going to get some.  The Patron Saint of Paris is St. Genevieve, a visionary teenager who is credited with saving Paris from the plague and Attilla the Hun with her prayers.  A church/monastery dedicated to her was built on this site and massively rebuilt in the Eighteenth Century.  But during the French Revolution like many other churches, the building was secularized, renamed the Pantheon, and repurposed to be a memorial to distinguished or heroic Frenchman (and later French Women as well).  The building is in the monumental Neo Classical style and is more or less a cruciform centrally planned  interior with a huge dome capping the whole business.

Now what I remembered and wanted to see were the frescoed panels by Pierre Puvis de Chavanne with scenes from the life of St. Genevieve.  I'd forgotten how big and glittering the place was.  There are a lot of patriotic paintings and sculptures.  There are also some (in my opinion bizzare) art installations.  I mean who needs raggedy clothes or a bunch of rusted out bicycles?

Downstairs is the crypt reserved for the most distinguished of corpses.  Being buried in the Pantheon is a Very Big Deal and a very rare honor.  For example, we find Voltaire, Victor Hugo, and Emile Zola.  Louis Braille is nearby.  If you had a geiger counter you could find the radio active bodies of Marie and Pierre Curie.  I don't want to forget the American Josephine Baker.  She wasn't just an entertainer.  The French revere her as a heroine of the resistance to German Occupation.  Up stairs Foucault's Pendulum hangs from the dome.  You can also find it at Arts and Metiers.

Leaving the Pantheon I set out down Rue Cujas and eventually made my way to the Luxembourg Gardens. This is a lovely green space in which to stroll around, or sit and contemplate life, or picnic.  The park originated as a pleasure palace and grounds created by the Queen and Regent Marie de Medici. At the southern end sits the beautiful building used by the Senate of the French Republic, and the Medici Fountain, a pond where you could rent a toy sail boat and play with it.  I did not do this.  Instead I walked for a while under the chestnut trees, and then I could hear the cheese calling me, so I headed for home.

Apero is more of that lovely cheese I got yesterday along with some olives and rose wine.  The cheese stinks up my fridge, but oh does it taste good!  By the way, never eat cold cheese.  I take it out of the fridge and let it come to room temperature.  It's worth the wait. If the truth were told, I come to France to eat high quality saturated fat.  I tell myself that all the walking makes up for it.

A demain

Musee de Rodin

 Bon jour, mes amies,

You can see by the title of this post that I made it. It took some doing, but it was worth it and a very satisfying day out.

This time I was prepared.  I used google maps to work out a route from Place de Concorde.  As I surmised it was a reasonable walk.  The snag was that the street that google maps wanted me to take once I'd crossed the river seemingly didn't exist.  Instead I fetched up at the Esplanade des Invalides and found a sign directing me to the Musee Rodin.  I found it with no problem and got in right away using my museum pass.

To my delight the museum had been refurbished and the gardens expanded.  Mes amies, it's worth it to come for the garden alone, but you will also find examples of the artist's wonderful works.  He's one of my favorites.  You can find The Thinker among the roses, and further along is the monumental figure of Balzac (google him!).  I had a lovely wander in this green and flowery site with its meandering paths punctuated by works of art. In Art History Rodin is classified as a Post Impressionist, but he was classically trained, and one can see the traces of classicism in some of his works.  He began with conventional works, but he soon threw that off, and his art became much more powerful and expressive.  There's a great exhibit inside as well.  I did the gardens first, but it's your choice.  I especially like Walking Man (yeah, google it) and the Kiss.

Then I had to make my way back to the Place de Concorde.  I came upon my bank's international partner and obtained some cash.  I got on the metro and came back, but I had developed a yen for fromage, so instead of coming straight home I attended Rue Montorgueil and found a fromagerie that had exactly what I wanted.  A tasting will follow.

But first.  Is Paris water magic?  I wear my mask every day for hours on end, and yet I do not have the maskne I had at home.  Speaking of masks.  They are required on public transit, and people wear them.  I cannot promise that everyone wears the mask correctly.  I see nostrils.  I do not like this.  And moreover, do you know what the predominant litter is in Paris these days?  It used to be cigarette butts, but the city mounted a campaign against this.  Now in these days of Covid 19 what you will find on the streets are discarded masks.  They are everywhere!

Stop messing around, Pil, and get to the cheese.

I got some more Valencay because I like it so much, and goat cheese is easier on my aging digestive system.  It really has a distinctive flavor I cannot describe.  You'll need to come and taste it for yourselves.  The other cheese I got was some raw milk (lait cru) Livarot.  Raw milk cheese that has not been aged for sixty days is illegal in the United States.  The stuff I got is AOP, and we are in stinky territory.  This is a cows milk cheese from Normandy, and it's soooooo goooood.

A demain