Opera Garnier

 Bon jour, mes amies,

Yes, I went back, and La Opera is definitely worth a visit.  Lavish is the word for this building. Napoleon III himself requested a grand opera house and chose Charles Garnier to design and decorate it.  The location was carefully chosen to take advantage of Baron Hausmann's reworking of Paris streets as it has its own grand avenue and is just off the Grandes Boulevards.  The building simply screams Second Empire grandiosity, and yet it manages to be beautiful and harmonious albeit overwhelming.

When I got there, a long line had already formed, and the site opened late.  I amused myself watching clueless visitors march up to the entrance.  They must have thought the rest of us were lined up for funsies.  The attendants directed them to the rear of the line.

The exterior is ornate with statues, pilasters, cornices, and reliefs.  There's an Art Historical term horror vacui. Every available surface has its decoration.  The outside does not compare with the interior which has all of those plus mosaics and frescos. I wondered how much gold leaf was employed.  Acres, I imagine.  One can rent an audio guide, but I did not.  While waiting to go upstairs (A school group of little kids had to be sorted out) a woman spoke to me in French.  I replied apologetically in English, "I'm a tourist."  She brightened.  "Me, too!"  She asked me to take a photo of her with her phone, and of course, I was happy to oblige.  Plenty of people have helped me out in just this way on my journeys.

I had a good wander.  A few of the boxes are open.  I got a good view (and photo) of the lovely Marc Chagall fresco in the central dome.  I also marveled at the various vestibules meant as a place for the fashionable world to gather before and after the performances.  Some costumes from past performances are on display.  A lot of us went out on the balcony that overlooks the Place and Avenue de la Opera for a great view of the chaos.

My trips there taught me to value the quiet and lack of bustle of my own neighborhood.  Driving in Paris must be a horror show.  I would not even take a taxi lest I die of fear.  I am astounded that there are not more accidents.  And if you need the police or an emergency vehicle--well, don't hold your breath.  They are stuck in traffic like everyone else.  A couple of Very Swank Hotels are in this area.  The rest are on the Champs Elysees.  I'll stick to Les Halles.

I hard boiled some eggs this morning and am having one with my apero.  I also stopped on the way back at my favorite fast food place.  You may be surprised I have one, but I have always enjoyed Pret a Manger.  Despite the French name it's a British outfit.  All the food is organic and fair trade, not to mention delicious.  I have never been disappointed.  As a bonus, they were one of the first food sellers to do social outreach to the homeless and hungry.  A few outlets exist in the United States and if you run across one, don't hesitate to stop in.  I got a Salad Nicoise Wrap to remind myself of all those Pan Bagnats I ate in Nice.  This one isn't authentic, but it sure is good!

A demain