Bom Dia,
Let me recruit myself with a sip of chilled vinho blanco.
The Monastery is spectacular and probably Lisbon's most famous and visited attractions. It is an UNESCO World Heritage site. Having said that, I have to admit that today was a bit of an ordeal.
For one thing the Belem tram was not running due to track repairs. A Lisbon Public Transit guy directed us to a bus stop. As you can imagine the bus was very crowded, but the people were pleasant, and I was able to be helpful to my fellow Monastery travelers. It's a long ride.
Once there I read the signs and went to get in line for my ticket. I thought that coming mid week and early, I could escape the crowds. I was wrong. The ticket line was long and slow. One got tickets by card machine only. I wanted a combo ticket so I could visit the archeological museum. This was not possible. Having obtained my ticket, I had to go stand in another line. I can compare the lines only to the stretching into infinity lines one finds at Versailles. And the line moved at a pace that would make a glacier look like a greyhound. I had to stand for fifty minutes in hot sunlight, and I would be lying if I pretended this did me any good.
The exterior is amazing as well. The Monastery was founded by King Manuel I, because he had plenty of cash to burn because Vasco da Gama had discovered the sea route to India by sailing around Africa. He came back with a boat load of spices and many a Portuguese caravel followed him. This is the same King Manuel I, who dismissed Columbus (Rightly so. Columbus was nuts for grossly underestimating the size of the Earth, and don't try to tell me stories. All educated people knew the Earth was round since Hellenistic Times. ) and blew off Ferdinand Magellan (this may have been a mistake as his voyage greatly benefitted the Spanish Crown.)
Finally! Inside only to realize I had to climb stairs. At this point I was so stiff and depleted I wasn't sure I could make it. I managed and followed the signs and emerged in the cloister.
At this point I began to think the line was worth it. Marvelous! What came to mind was the art historical concept of horror vacui. The Cloister comes in two stories, and it is lovely to walk around admiring the exquisite and intricate carving. The Refectory features some first rate tile work. The whole thing is simply gorgeous.
When I was done I followed the signs for the exit feeling puzzled. I wanted to see the church. Well, it turns out that to see the church one has to leave the monastery and join a huge snaking line for another fifty minutes in the sun. I decided I wasn't going to do that. I don't like being an ungracious guest, but the design of this site is not geared toward the comfort and convenience of visitors. I suppose they know we'll come anyway.
I took the tram part way home and then transferred to a bus. Mercifully both forms of public transport were air conditioned.
For apero I toasted some bread and melted some cheese on it. The Portuguese cheese is called Olveha and it's a very soft cheese incased in a waxy rind. Very yummy indeed, and the white wine is refreshing.
Bye for now
No comments:
Post a Comment