Another Day Off

 

Goden Dag,

Unfortunately I did not sleep last night. I don't know why, and my eye is very wonky. I find that if I sit quietly even looking at my computer, I am comfortable, but any thing that might cause eye exursion is unpleasant. I did go out because I needed groceries, so I took some pix so you would have Something to Look At. I'm hoping to get out more tomorrow. Fortunately I'd seen the things I really wanted to see, so my trip is not a disappointment.

This is my street Noordstraat. Besides the bikes there are several cafes.

Can you read Dutch? V is often pronounced F. Come on, you can do it!

I'd take this street most of the time when I'm on my way downtown.

A Day Off

 

Goden Dag,

I've been touristing hard, and I am a woman in my mid 70s, so I do get tired. In addition I am having a serious problem with my left eye. I have an appointment with a specialist when I return, so I hope that can clear up quickly, but in the meantime it is most unpleasant. And I look awful. My eye is red and swollen, but I wear my glasses, so it doesn't show as much.

Please note th Pride Flags. Several of the canals feature them

Fortunately, I have a Tour de France stage to keep me entertained.

I did go out briefly to stretch my legs a bit. I walked around Prinzengracht, and it was nice and cool for a change.

Prinzengracht--serene and lovely

Here is my neigborhood--a bit on the posh side.

It is a bit cooler for the Tour stage today, too. Only 90F. UGH! I do feel for the riders

I hope to do better tomorrow.

Tot Ziens

The Nine Streets

Goden Dag,

I needed a low key day after so much hard touristing. I'd heard that the Nine Streets were a charming part of the city, and the directions to get there--unlike yesterday--were straightforward.  I set out having a pleasant, easy walk along a canal. But it soon turned hot. Now I am a Southern Californian, so I can tolerate heat better than most Europeans as long as it's not humid. I did not feel uncomfortable. I just made a mental note to rehydrate when I got home.

I don't have anything exciting to report. I had a pleasant walk and a good look around. I found some interesting shops and a lot of people enjoying snacks and drinks sitting in sidewalk cafes. And I enjoyed the light on the canal water.

I found this building interesting.

This distinguished building is a cafe/restaurant.

Now I'm watching the Tour de France and waiting for housekeeping to show up. Instead of trying to wait it out, I decided to turn on the Tour and have my aperitivo.

But I got some extra water before settling in, and I met a cute Australian guy at the water fountain. We agreed that hydration was important, and he warned me it would only get hotter. This unfortuately is true, but at least we won't be suffering under the punishing heat that places further south are.  I feel so sorry for the riders in the Tour. It's sweltering even in the mountains.

Tot Ziens

I Didn't Make It

 Goden Dag,

The plan was to visit the Amsterdam Maritime Museum. I'd been on a previous visit and remembered 1) it was fascinating given the long history with Dutch and the sea, 2) It was a project. I booked my ticket using my Amsterdam Card. The issue is the museum was way across town near the harbor. It was a long walk and google maps claimed there was a lack of public transportation. Well, I tried, but I never got there.

And the rules of the Amsterdam Card is one visit per card, so I am So Out of Luck.

I began the day with a trip to the grocery store. This time I found the cheese I started out with and tried a new kind of brown bread. For some reason I had trouble with the automatic check out and some ladies came to help me. One of them used her card to get me a small discount! How kind was that?

Then I set out having written down instructions from google maps. At first all went well. I hit every mark even though it was a longish walk. Then I hit a snag. I saw a tram with my next step as destination, so I followed it. I got to the next destination, but then things fell apart completely. I checked my physical map as well as an interactive map provided my the city. Nothing made sense.

I was near a beautiful botanical garden affair, and had I any sense I would have gone there instead. I wandered around trying to find my bearings and only become more bewildered. It was hot. I was tired. I'd already surpassed my step count. I found a tram stop that would take me to Centraal Station. I asked someone if I could just tap my debit card in lieu of a ticket, and he told me I could. Here is where I ended up. I have no idea where I was.

Eventually the tram came. and the method worked. Here's what a tram ride looks like.

At Centraal Station I got the metro home. I've seen these cute little cars on the street. I like them, but I would be terrified to drive one in Los Angeles traffic.

This is my domicile, a former Weavers House. It's a very nice place to stay in Amsterdam.

For dinner this time, I have some cheap but decent rose and pasta salad. I had olives and almonds for aperitivo.

Now I have to decide what to do tomorrow. I hope I can provide a more interesting experience.

Tot Ziens

Stedelijk: Some Modern Art

 Goden Dag.

Cool and overcast today, but tomorrow some heat begins. I'm going to have to revert to my Mediterranean Style pattern of eating, but today I went back to Albert Cuyp Market for fish and frites. They gave me a slice of lemon for the fish as well as a generous portion of mayonnaise. But this has got to be the last time.

I have to say something about the Tour de France. The current race leader is a Norwegian cancer survivor. He had a routine anti doping test, and they said, "Uhm, there's something weird with your blood. Have it checked out." So he survived. He led the Tour of Spain for a while, too. He won't win this race, but what an inspiration!

I booked a ticket at the Stedelijk Museum. The building is ultra modern like the art within and is nicknamed "The Bathtub." It's near the Rijksmuseum and the Van Gogh Museum. I used my Amsterdam Card.

You're going to find Twentieth Century Art and a bit of Early Twenty-first. It's like every other museum. There's art that's just there, and some that jumps out at you. Which is which may depend on your personal taste. 

One thing that pleased me was the inclusion of some non European artists, and especially those from former Dutch colonies who used art to protest oppression. Good for the Dutch on not holding a grudge. There were also a lot of women represented.

Here are some things I liked. Your milage may vary.

                                                

One of the momst fascinating exhibits was a tribute to a Korean designer working in the Netherlands. I liked his furniture with its clean lines and air of comfort.

Here's a work from one of my favorite Modern Artists, Kazimir Malevitch. I can't tell you why his work appeals to me. It just does. 

This one was fun. The shapes are covered with animal skins or their equivilent  in paint,  There's snake, tiger, leopard, and zebra for example. It's a veritable Noah's Ark.

Now I think I'm done with art for a while.

Tots Ziens

Koninklijk Paleis

 

Goden Dag

When I finished with the palace I visited an Amsterdam Institution called FEBO. It's an automat--remember those?--founded in 1941, when vituals were pretty thin on the ground. The food is basic and expensive for what you get. I paid 3 euros for a sausage stick, but I wanted the cultural experience. The real cultural experience, however, is drunks at midnight looking for a nosh. I'm not doing that.

I would classify the Royal Palace as a project visit, and very much worth it. I booked my ticket on line and reserved a time for my visit. I also renewed my Amsterdam Card. The young ladies at the service desk promised to report the technical difficulties in booking, and they were solved. The problem is that the Palace is not on the Amsterdam Card, so I had to pay for my ticket. Still worth it.

I took a leisurely stroll downtown and had enough time to explore some side streets. Then I got in line for the Palace entrance. I checked my bag at the cloakroom and picked up the free audio guide. I saw a few visitors going without it, but they are chumps. The audio guide is very informative and well done, but using it for the main tour means your visit will be well over an hour.

The building began its career as Amsterdam's Town Hall in the Golden Age of the Dutch Republic. The interior is gorgeous and very grand.Many of the original Baroque--and highly allegorical because, well, Baroque--remain. But Napoleon abolished the Dutch Republic and installed his baby brother Louis as King of Holland. That's when the town hall transmuted into a palace.

Louis remodeled his palace in the French Imperial style much of which remains, and when his brother was defeated and exiled, the House of Orange returned as monarchs, so a Royal Palace the building remained until this day. The current King and Queen, Willem Alexander and Maxima, live elsewhere, but show up for state occasions.  But it's time to let the photos do the talking.

The magnificent Hall of Citizens.

When you're invited to a state dinner, you can expect this place setting with the ceramics personally designed by the King and Queen.  Kingfishers and flowers were their favorites.

One of the more intimate state rooms with Louis Bonaparte remains. This is where you would stay on your formal state visit.

A room once used for trials. Check out the chandelier, which weights some1,000 pounds.

I got lost coming home, but this has happened before, and the thing with Amsterdam, one can just follow a canal. I emerged in a place I recognized and weary and footsore made my way home.

Tot Ziens

A Couple of Fancy Canal Houses

 

Goden Dag,

I meant to give myself an easier day. I am old, and I get tired, but I still ended up walking 12K steps. I get hungry, too, and I'm scarfing up more fish and frites from a new place. I'm washing it down with cheap, but actually really good, Sauvignon Blanc from Chile.  This being Europe there are automatic check out machines. I don't like them, but I can use them. Fortunately, I observed a fellow customer scan her receipt to open the exit gate, so I was able to follow suit.

Pil, what is up with you and all the fish and frites? You did't even have fish and chips that often in London.

Uh. It's the mayonnaise on the frites. I confess. I am an addict. I'm also an addict of bike races, so I have stage three of the Tour on. Only two stages complete, and it's already been a great race.

I booked my visits to the canal houses on line. One required a time. The other just a day. I used my Amsterdam Card to get in free. It has not paid for itself, but if I had had it at the Van Gogh Museum, I would have come close. In my younger days, I really made these cards pay.

I began with a trip to the grocery store. I love these groceries in foreign lands. Apparently our guests at the World Cup found U.S. groceries just as fascinating.

The Canal Houses were easy to find and certainly worth a visit. The Dutch Republic and later Kingdom of the Netherlands created a fantastically wealthy merchant class. Most of their houses have been converted into multi star hotels. The place I'm staying used to be weavers' quarters.

My first stop was the Willet-Holthuysen House where a very informative audio guide is included in the admission. In the mid Nineteenth Century an incredibly wealthy heiress married a rich man with a mania for collecting art. She largely shared this interest and ended up willing their house and its contents to the City.  They were Francophiles with taste for the Louis XVI style. Not my favorite style, but I'd move in. 

Here's the formal dinning room. Most dinning would be very formal.

A view of the garden--from the Garden Room. This is where I would sit with you to have tea.

Next came the Van Loon Museum. It belonged to an old Amsterdam merchant clan, and was also decorated in Nineteenth Century fashion. This time we got to go into the garden--not a lot of space to spare in the heart of the city. There's no audio guide, but informative placards will tell you about the rooms and their furnishings.

The rooms are beautiful. I liked them better than the ones at Willet Holthuysen. One of the owners was a Lady in Waiting to Queen Wilhelmina and had to take on Amsterdam based royal obligations, but the rooms are Dutch Style Grand--in other words a smaller, and more regular human scale.

We were allowed to walk in the garden. The building opposite holds a cafe.

The ornate master bedroom.

I tried the fish and frites place nearby. I had to order by computer and paid extra for mayonnaise, but the fish chunks and frites were freshly fried. They were good, but on the expensive side for what I got.

Tot Ziens