Rainy Saturday in Catania

Buon giorno,

I gave myself a fairly easy day today, but I did get out and walk and snoot around. I don't walk as many steps as I did in Amsterdam, but I'm going up and down hill constantly, so I think it works out. It was cool and overcast when I set out (unlike conditions at home!) and after a while gentle rain began to fall. As an experienced traveler I ALWAYS carry an umbrella. Just in cast. And often it is the case.

One feature of most Italian cities is cats. I saw one sheltering in a doorway, and it kindly consented for me to scratch its furry head.

Anywhere you go in Catania, you can find a juice stand. The proprietor cuts and squishes the fruit before your very eyes. I imagine this is incredibly fresh and refreshing, but juice does not agree with me, so I'll never know. They seem popular though.

I strolled through the market near the fish market. No fish but plenty of meat and cheeses and well as fruit and veg on offer.

After strolling around and licking many a window, I fetched up at at a food shop on Via Giuseppe Garabaldi where I had been before. It's a beauitful shop with many enticing goodies, and I was enticed. I was intrtiged by something called "Fuoco della Etna," which I feared would be hot and spicey, but which we determined to be a very strong strawberry liqueur. I got a small bottle to try tomorrow and another small bottle of cinnamon liqueur plus some pistasccio cookies. The proprietor seemed so nice that I ventured to speak Italian to him, and I understood what he said to me! He asked me where I was from ,and I got the usual reaction to Los Angeles--"Spettaculo!" Fabulous!  It really makes me wonder what sort of glamor my city projects abroad. I mean I live a long way from Hollywood, which is actually kinda sleazy these days.

I returned home to dig into those lovely olives I got from the market. And I sipped limoncello and ate some tuna. Dinner is linguine with walnut sauce. MMM. Walnut pesto pasta is very tasty indeed and probably healthful to boot. I'm going to learn to make this at home.

Ciao for now

Monasterio San Benedetto

 Buon giorno,

I asked for my room to be done today, so I vacacted a bit early to give housekeeping a chance to do their job. I do like wandering around Catania. There are a lot of handsome buildings, albeit a bit run down, and some fun windows to lick.

I went down to the piazzas near Santa Agata because I'd spotted a reliable ATM there. I got some cash. Bleah. The exchange rate is hideous, but it 's also good to have plenty of cash on hand.

My target for today is Il Monasterio de San Benedetto. I don't know why they use the word monastery. It's a convent with enclosed nuns of the Benedictine order. I would not have known about the place except our tour guide on the walking tour I took my first full day here stopped and described it.  The novices enter, and if they become nuns, they never leave. The exception is that they may stand by the side of the road to watch the pagent of Santa Agata. Nevertheless, our guide, who has met and spoke to the nuns, described them as very happy. According to the website, they arise early, attend mass, and their days are divided between worship and work.

The site is open just two or three days a week, and I did not see a single nun. They, no doubt were busy at their work and were not interesting in seeing me.

One loads an audio guide on one's phone. I had to keep reloading it because I wanted to take photos. The convent is built on the site of a Roman townhouse.

Then one climbs the stairs to a meeting room.

The main event is the chapel. Remember how austere Santa Agata looked?  Here we have the opposite. The art historical concept horror vacui comes to mind. The place is beautiful, and I found the decorations very compelling.

                                                    

After that I made my way down Via Etnea and did some shopping, but then I had to drag myself and my purchases up a long hill to home. Fortunately my room was done, and I could relax shoveling olvies and almonds down my throat while having a sip or two of limoncello and green tea.

I enjoyed the pasta and pesto so much yesterday, I'm going to have it again.

Ciao for Now

Palazzo Biscari

 

Buon giorno,

I could sit here all afternoon sipping aperitifs and eating those lush black olives I got from the market. But no. Duty calls, and I'll blog instead.

I began my day with a trip to the grocery store. One thing I got was a selection of sauces for my pasta. Now no self-respecting Italian would buy premade sauce like this--maybe in a pinch a jar of tomato sauce they could dress up--but I am not a self respecting Italian, and I like to try a variety of things. This is a good way.

Today's target was Palazzo Biscari. Now Catania used to be simply sick with one aristocratic palazzo after another in the historic center. Most of them have converted to hotels, apartments, or office buildings. They are labeled and you can see them as you walk by, but you can't visit. So I was glad to be able to attend Palazzo Biscari.

The original palace of the Princes of Biscari was destroyed in the Great Earthquake, so the current structure was built in the fashionable Baroque style. The Biscari Family still owns the joint, and it is also classified as an UNESCO World Heritage site. If you own a palazzo or something like it, the only way to keep it up is to open it to the public and charge admission and rent it out for events. Not all the palace can be visited, and I suspect the family when they're in town stays in the private rooms.

Worth a visit, eh, Pil?

I would say so, especially as such sites are so rare in Catania. It's not too far from the Duomo, and it does not cost a lot to get in, but once you are in there's not much guidance for an English speaker. Because I taught Art History, I can understand a lot of the iconography in the decorations. There's some nice furniture, and I enjoyed the state rooms, and the more intimate "real people" rooms. But I'll let the pictures do the talking.

Have a look at the beautiful tiled floor on this next one.

Finally, a look at a Catania skyline from the palazzo's balcony.

Today's dinner is linguine with pesto and a sprinkling of parmigiano regiano. Yumsy Maxxing.

Ciao for now

Al Mercato--Piazza Carlo Alberto

 

Buon giorno,

My day started out in a less-than-optimal way when the power went out. Fortunately I'd already had my tea and breakfast, but I was stuck in the dark with only my computer screen for light, and I had to use my phone's hot spot because the internet was out, too, and also there was no water. After a little over an hour (it seemed much longer than that!) the power and water returned, and I was able to go about my business.

It's the 960th anniversary of the Norman Conquest of England. The Normans also conquered Sicily, and there's a cool looking Norman castle used as the civic museum. It would make an ideal destination for today, but alas it's closed for renovations.

I decided to go to Catania's other market, which I understood to be more comprehensive and less touristy.  The directions seemed straightforward, but I got turned around and could not find the street I needed--or so I thought. I was on the correct street, but it wasn't labeled, and I didn't realize I had to cross Via Etnea.

The market is huge. It begins very early in the morning. I was there mid morning, and the place was packed. It's mostly food, but some tourist stuff as well as household goods are on offer. I was astounded at the variety--and beauty--of the fruits and vegetables, some of which I did not recognize. 

                                                

I dared not buy any as tempting as they were because I know from sad experience that the ingestion of foreign veg leads to gastric disaster.  

The exception is olives, which are OK because they've been cured. So after hunting around I found an olive stand presided over by two very good looking young men. One of them spoke English, and I got my loot. Friends, they taste as good as they look!

I had a stroll around the quiet streets near the market, and decided to visit Rinascente, the fancy department store. Most Italian cities have one. I helped myself to some perfume. Guerlain has reformulated L'heure bleu, but I like the old one better. I went downstairs to snoot around their food and wine department. Then I headed for home.

Apero is a bit different today. I have my almonds but also some of those lush black Sicilian olives plus some grappa. Grappa is distilled from wine left overs. I've heard much of it, but I got a small bottle because, although I feel obliged to try it, I don't think I'm going to like it. Let's have sip. I was right. I don't like it. The high alcohol content makes it fiery.  I'm feeling the booze after just two small sips. I suppose one could cook with the stuff, but I'm going to pour it out

For dinner, I am also doing something different, but it's still pasta. I've having tortellini filled with spinach and ricotta. I'll douse it in garlic and olive oil.

Ciao for now.

Santa Agata and Some Wandering

 Buon giorno,

It's another muggy afternoon.My apartment has air conditioning should I need it. So far I have not.  I looked up the times of services at St. Agatha, so I could time my arrival and actually get in.

But before that, I decided to stroll up Via Giuseppe Garabaldi to have a look at the Garabaldi Arch. Because of my wanderings, I have a good sense of the layout of the historical center and can find my way around very easily. I had plenty of windows to lick along the way, but Dang! the traffic!!. Drivers in Catania do not actually want to hit pedestrians, but they are also extremely reluctant to stop for us even when we are in a cross walk.Whew.  Here's the arch. I was much closer to it than the photo indicates, and it is quite large even though you can barely see it.

I made my way back down the hill to Il Duomo--the Cathedral. But then I spotted a nice looking shop, so I went in and looked around.  I made a couple of purchases, one of which I will discuss later. The kindly proprietor was amused and charmed by my (feeble) attempts to speak Italian. He was also pleased I gave him exact change.

On to Il Duomo. St. Agatha was a Virgin Martyr. I'm not going to recount her gruesome ordeal, but every bakery has very sweet cakes in her honor. In Palermo they're called cassaita. Catania has a different them, and each cake it crowned by a maraschino cherry.

I was surprised by the cathedral. Usually Baroque churches are highly decorated and very ornate. Santa Agata is remarkably plain, and yet the interior is harmonious and beautiful.  Here is the nave.

This is one of the side aisles. Very pure. Very clean.

Then I made my slow weary way up hill to home. I've had my apero and I included a couple of lemon cookies I bought at the shop along with my almonds. They were very tasty. Now I'm looking forward to a nice dinner of linguine dressed with cacio e pepe and some of that good Sicilian red wine.

Ciao for Now

More Catanian Meanderings

 Buon giorno,

The plan for today was to visit Il Duomo--the Cathedral dedicated to St. Agatha, but wouldn't you know it, the place of worship was employed for its intended use instead of catering to nosy tourists. The nerve!

I began my day with a trip to the grocery store. I got what I needed, but not all I wanted.  When I'm in Italy, I like to indulge in prosciutto and mortadella, and I could find neither, but I did get more of that nice cheese I've been having for breakfast. The store has a bakery and a butcher's shop, but my Italian isn't good enough to try them out.

I've put the water on for pasta.

Confess, Pil, the history and art are just excuses. You go to Italy because you want to eat pasta every day.

Uh. Well.

I was told not to put the induction stove top on high or the lights would go out, so it takes a long time for the water to boil, but eventually my linguine will be done and ready for garlic and oil.

But I had a nice day out until it turned unbearably muggy. Maybe it will rain again?  Here is the courtyard of my accommodations. It's what attracted me to the place.

I made my downhill  and took a turn on Via Crocefero because it's picturesque and offers some opportunity to lick a window or two.

                                                    

I strolled to the Piazza del Duomo only to find a service in progress. I tried an ATM, but no withdrawals were on offer--so thrwarted again. But there's plenty to see in the area.  Here's a fountain. The city paved over the river, but you can see some of the water here.

I also strolled through the market--mostly given over to fish. Locals shop here. Tourists frequent the many fish restaurants. 

So Southern Italy--it's poor, and I wouldn't bet on good government. Organized crime is either not or barely controlled. Of course, we tourists see nothing of this, and I personally am glad of it.

There are a lot of beautiful buildings in Catania, but so many are run down, and there's graffiti and trash. If I am being frank, I am more comfortable in Northern Italy, which is calmer and more elegant. Your milage may vary. That does not mean I don't enjoy being here because I do.

I drink the local wine because for one thing, it's cheaper, and I look for IPG. I'm sipping a red called Frappato, something I've never heard of, but it's quite good.

Ciao for Now

Wandering Around Catania on a Sunny Sunday

 Buon giorno,

I've decided I like Catania better than Palermo even though Palermo was flat, I'm always going up and down in Catania. Both cities share the same traffic issues and angry honking, but Catania has more pedestrianized areas.

Since last night was Saturday, I was awakened by noisy returning revelers, but I got back to sleep.  I had a nice breakfast of Italian cheese and whole wheat crackers, plus my tea. The plan for today was simple. Since a lot of things are closed on Sunday, I proposed to take a big loop around the city.

It was cool when I set off, but that soon changed. I found Via Vittorio Emmanuele and strolled along,  but I soon decided that a block over Via Giuseppe Garabaldi looked like more fun. This is a typical Catanian piazza.

I soon fetched up in the Piazza del Duomo.

But that was not my target. I wanted to walk down Via Etnea--Mount Etna Street, which provides views of the volcano as well as a lot of bougie shops. Maybe if you strain your eyes, you can see the volcano with it's crown of clouds.

Some of the way is pedestrianized. Along the way I passed by the ruins of the Roman Amphitheatre.

A while further along I found my next target Giardino e Villa Bellini. The Bellini in question is the famous composer, whose most famous work, as far as Sicilians are concerned, is the opera Norma, which, of course, is set in Sicily. He build a lovely villa, and the park is the grounds. Unfortunately the villa is not open to the public, but the park is and makes for a charming stroll on a warm day.

I also tried to get a photo of Mount Etna.

                                            

Well, you can just get a glimpse of the clouds that surround the craters. I could see the actual mountain.

I had carefully calculated my route, so after I had walked around the garden, I found the street that would take me home.  I had a very pleasant day out.

I came home to an aperitivo of almonds and limoncello. Some Italians drink limoncello straight as a digestive. I made some iced green tea to have mine. Dinner will be more linguine with some cacio e pepe sauce this time.

Ciao for Now