Koninklijk Paleis

 

Goden Dag

When I finished with the palace I visited an Amsterdam Institution called FEBO. It's an automat--remember those?--founded in 1941, when vituals were pretty thin on the ground. The food is basic and expensive for what you get. I paid 3 euros for a sausage stick, but I wanted the cultural experience. The real cultural experience, however, is drunks at midnight looking for a nosh. I'm not doing that.

I would classify the Royal Palace as a project visit, and very much worth it. I booked my ticket on line and reserved a time for my visit. I also renewed my Amsterdam Card. The young ladies at the service desk promised to report the technical difficulties in booking, and they were solved. The problem is that the Palace is not on the Amsterdam Card, so I had to pay for my ticket. Still worth it.

I took a leisurely stroll downtown and had enough time to explore some side streets. Then I got in line for the Palace entrance. I checked my bag at the cloakroom and picked up the free audio guide. I saw a few visitors going without it, but they are chumps. The audio guide is very informative and well done, but using it for the main tour means your visit will be well over an hour.

The building began its career as Amsterdam's Town Hall in the Golden Age of the Dutch Republic. The interior is gorgeous and very grand.Many of the original Baroque--and highly allegorical because, well, Baroque--remain. But Napoleon abolished the Dutch Republic and installed his baby brother Louis as King of Holland. That's when the town hall transmuted into a palace.

Louis remodeled his palace in the French Imperial style much of which remains, and when his brother was defeated and exiled, the House of Orange returned as monarchs, so a Royal Palace the building remained until this day. The current King and Queen, Willem Alexander and Maxima, live elsewhere, but show up for state occasions.  But it's time to let the photos do the talking.

The magnificent Hall of Citizens.

When you're invited to a state dinner, you can expect this place setting with the ceramics personally designed by the King and Queen.  Kingfishers and flowers were their favorites.

One of the more intimate state rooms with Louis Bonaparte remains. This is where you would stay on your formal state visit.

A room once used for trials. Check out the chandelier, which weights some1,000 pounds.

I got lost coming home, but this has happened before, and the thing with Amsterdam, one can just follow a canal. I emerged in a place I recognized and weary and footsore made my way home.

Tot Ziens

A Couple of Fancy Canal Houses

 

Goden Dag,

I meant to give myself an easier day. I am old, and I get tired, but I still ended up walking 12K steps. I get hungry, too, and I'm scarfing up more fish and frites from a new place. I'm washing it down with cheap, but actually really good, Sauvignon Blanc from Chile.  This being Europe there are automatic check out machines. I don't like them, but I can use them. Fortunately, I observed a fellow customer scan her receipt to open the exit gate, so I was able to follow suit.

Pil, what is up with you and all the fish and frites? You did't even have fish and chips that often in London.

Uh. It's the mayonnaise on the frites. I confess. I am an addict. I'm also an addict of bike races, so I have stage three of the Tour on. Only two stages complete, and it's already been a great race.

I booked my visits to the canal houses on line. One required a time. The other just a day. I used my Amsterdam Card to get in free. It has not paid for itself, but if I had had it at the Van Gogh Museum, I would have come close. In my younger days, I really made these cards pay.

I began with a trip to the grocery store. I love these groceries in foreign lands. Apparently our guests at the World Cup found U.S. groceries just as fascinating.

The Canal Houses were easy to find and certainly worth a visit. The Dutch Republic and later Kingdom of the Netherlands created a fantastically wealthy merchant class. Most of their houses have been converted into multi star hotels. The place I'm staying used to be weavers' quarters.

My first stop was the Willet-Holthuysen House where a very informative audio guide is included in the admission. In the mid Nineteenth Century an incredibly wealthy heiress married a rich man with a mania for collecting art. She largely shared this interest and ended up willing their house and its contents to the City.  They were Francophiles with taste for the Louis XVI style. Not my favorite style, but I'd move in. 

Here's the formal dinning room. Most dinning would be very formal.

A view of the garden--from the Garden Room. This is where I would sit with you to have tea.

Next came the Van Loon Museum. It belonged to an old Amsterdam merchant clan, and was also decorated in Nineteenth Century fashion. This time we got to go into the garden--not a lot of space to spare in the heart of the city. There's no audio guide, but informative placards will tell you about the rooms and their furnishings.

The rooms are beautiful. I liked them better than the ones at Willet Holthuysen. One of the owners was a Lady in Waiting to Queen Wilhelmina and had to take on Amsterdam based royal obligations, but the rooms are Dutch Style Grand--in other words a smaller, and more regular human scale.

We were allowed to walk in the garden. The building opposite holds a cafe.

The ornate master bedroom.

I tried the fish and frites place nearby. I had to order by computer and paid extra for mayonnaise, but the fish chunks and frites were freshly fried. They were good, but on the expensive side for what I got.

Tot Ziens

Two "Failed" Painters

 

Goden Dag,

I don't know if the Dutch do apero. I certainly do, and I see plenty of places offering Aperol Spritz, but I'm having olives, almonds, and sauvignon blanc, none of which is exactly Dutch. But I am old, and I get legitimately tired. For example I got a lot of sleep last night the result of walking more than 13K steps yesterday. I did not walk that many today, but it was more than 10K. I've earned my snack and drink. And I made it back in time to enjoy the Tour stage.

So who are these "failed" painters? They are world renowned today, and any work of theirs that comes on the market sells for tens of millions of dollars. But in their lifetimes, they found little success and recognition, nevertheless, they are the two most famous of Dutch artists: Rembrandt van Rijn and Vincent Van Gogh. Both of them developed distinct styles that appeal to us but were too far from contemporary conventions to please the public.

I booked entrance times and got tickets using my museum card, and consulted the map so I could get from one to the next.  I showed up just a little late to the Van Gogh museum and realized I'd left my museum card behind, so I had to pay for my ticket. 

I'd been to the Van Gogh Museum before, and I remember loving it. Of course, institutions evolve, and the museum is now more dedicated to putting Van Gogh's work in Art Historical context and exhibiting artists who were influences or friends of his. There's an impressive exhibit of the works of Paul Gauguin, for example. But I was here to see Vincent, and I missed the discussion of his symbolism and use of color to express emotions.  I did see some paintings I had not seen before. Here's one I really liked.

Don't get me wrong. The museum is definitely worth a visit and the paintings are well displayed, and there's some touching information about Vincent's brother Theo and his devoted wife. Let's give Theo Van Gogh credit. I don't think we would have had Vincent without him.

I had enough time to go home and fetch my museum card before setting out to Rembrandt's House.  I have visited it before, but I did not remember the neighborhood. It was quite a stroll crossing many bridges over canals.

Rembrandt's House Museum is truth in advertising. This is the actual house that Rembrandt and his bride Saskia bought, complete with narrow, steep, and twisting staircases.  As long as Saskia lived Rembrandt's career prospered, when she died following the birth of their son, things began to decline. He spent too much and sold too few paintings. This was the Golden Age of the Dutch Republic, but popular taste passed him by. 

See the small bed? He worked here sometimes and slept sitting up. The Dutch used to believe that lying down was dangerous. 

This is the studio where he taught some pupils.

 The irony, as the museum, points out, is that we owe the recreation of Rembrandt's house to his bankruptcy and forced sale of his belongings. They were catalogued and could be recovered. His only surviving child, Cornelia, ended up in the Dutch colony in South Africa. He may have descendants.

Tot Ziens

The Rijksmuseum

 

Gode Dag,

Having obtained my Amsterdam Card making my reservation for my timed entrance was easy.  I'll be frank; the Rijksmuseum is a Project, and I'm not going to blame anyone for feeling overwhelmed or becoming bored with corporation portraits and seascapes, but there enough gems to make a visit very worthwhile.

The day being fine, I set out early and had a pleasant walk along a leafy canal and admired some fancy canal houses.

Then when I was waiting to cross the street--using the pedestrian crosswalk as was proper, I was cussed out in vulgar fashion and in English by a guy on a motorcycle, who decided I was not sufficiently near the curb. Welcome to Amsterdam. But on a serious note, be alert to the bicycle paths and do not walk in them. Always look around for riders. It's easier for you to stop than for them.

I strolled around some more and then got in line for the museum. I was early, but the nice young man said, "No problem." I had the ticket on my phone and the Amsterdam Card in my pocket. Both were scanned, and in I went.

Everyone (me, too) is here for Rembrandt and in my case also Vermeer, but there's a lot to see and enjoy. It's mostly paintings, but some beautiful furniture and objets d'arte are on display as well as some sculptures and tapestries, Because of the guided tour groups parking themselves in front of the masterpieces, you probably won't get a really good look at Rembrandt's more intimate and moving pieces, but there's always the Nightwatch under restoration but visible under glass. The Captain Frans Banninck Cocq looks completely out of his depth. Rembrandt could not help but paint the truth.

Given my taste for Late Medieval and Renaissance Art I also enjoyed these exhibits tremendously. The collection of Polychrome Statuary is outstanding. Here's a small sample.

I decided that to honor the Grand Depart of the Tour de France today, I'd have some fish and chips from the fish joint at Albert Cuyp Market. Here's the promised photo, but that's just the start. The stalls go on and on and on.  The food was really good. The Dutch like their fish in chunks unlike the English, but the principle is the same--batter and fry.

Uh, Pil, it's a Very Special Independence Day. It's OK that you're abroad, but don't you have anything to say on the 250th anniversary of the Declaration of Independence?

All right. I taught United States History for many years. I am deeply familiar with not only the Declaration, but our Constitution. As it happened, the colonies developed in such a way that we were no longer British and needed to be our own nation. And we are a nation founded upon ideals and principles rather than tribal or religious identity. We are founded both on individual liberty and civic duty. Those ideals and principles are sound, and my wish is that our country live up to them.

Tot Ziens

Visiting the Tourist Office

 

Goden Dag.

It's my day to have my room done,and who knows when that will happen? I'm tired having put inn more than 11K steps today, so I've done something I seldom do. I brought a snack of olives and almonds and my computer down to the lounge/bar for my aperitivo. There's no bartender, Citadines depends on its residents honesty.I bought myself a Belgian beer, and mighty refreshing it is too.

Now I'mgoingto watch the Team Presentation for the Tour de France. It starts tomorrow in Barcelona and promises to be a terrific contest. I could go on and on about it, but I'll spare you.

 began my day with a trip to the grocery store. I especially wanted more of that lovely Beemster cheese, but I searched for it in vain. I got some Gouda instead, and one can't really go wrong with Dutch cheese. Should you find yourself in Amsterdam and crave cheese, you cannot escape it. Cheese shops are everywhere!

For all that walking I did not accomplish much today, but that's about to change. I have been trying to buy an Amsterdam Card on line, which will give me free admission to sites and allow me to book my entry day and time. Most of the major sites in Amsterdam require this, and it's common in many European capitals. I approve of the system, especially for visitors to Anne Frank's House because previously wait times would be two or three hours.

But though I tried multiple times to buy my desired card, my request was rejected. The only thing left for me was to go to the tourist office called I am Amsterdam at the Station Centraal. You can see the neo Gothic station abaove.

Aayway, I found the tourist office and expressed my desire. The nice young ladies at the service desk said the product was available only on line. I explained the proble and we messed around on my phone--to no avail. It simply did not work.  Eventually, instead of the card I wanted, I got a three day card that also includes public transportation. I'll probably not use it much because I come to Europe to walk. I certainly appreciated the time and trouble the young ladies took for me.

Then I strolled around the city. I went to the Dam Square. I passed the major department store of the city. I used to go in to yse the toilet, but I still had to pay. The name means bee hive.

Even the shopping malls in Amsterdam are in historic buildings

                                                

Here is the royal palace. The Family lives at the Hague, so tourists can visit this building, and I intend to.

A family has come to take advantage of the lounge. The children are noisy, so I can barely hear my computer.  They are having lunch and behaving normally, so I''ll just have to deal. And once they left, the vacuuming began. The guy did such a thorough long-lasting job that I did not hear much of the Team Presentation. And my room is not yet done, and I have no idea when it will be.

Tot Ziens

Land o' Cheese and Herring

 

Goden Dag

I went to the grocery store yesterday afternoon. Among my takings was some solid Dutch bread and Beemster Cheese. The latter is a smooth semi hard cows milk cheese that makes a great breakfast.

The weather has turned. I left my hotel, then realized, yep. I had better take an umbrella and went back for it. I was soon glad as it began to drizzle and then pour. Where I'm from this would be called a storm. In Amsterdam it's Thursday.  I'd decided to visit two markets. The photo above is of Prinzengracht just down the street from me. I'm fascinated by the houseboats. Some are for rent as accommodation, but I wouldn't want to stay in one alone.

First stop was the Bloemenmarkt. It's very touristy, but this is Amsterdam's famous flower market. Tulip season is over, but the place is still worth a visit. They will happily sell you all sorts of flower-related goods and souvenirs.  Bins of bulbs and packets of seeds abound. Now these would be promptly confiscated at my port of entry probably found out by seed sniffing dogs.  The wooden tulips are cute, and I may bring some back.

I strolled around the canals licking windows and getting pelted by rain. Fortunately it was not cold, but I could have done without the wind. By this time I needed a toilet, and I did not want to pay, so I made my way home. I soon set out again for market number two.  But here's the thing. I took my phone out of my purse to recharge it, and then forgot it. I will be returning to Albert Cuyp Market and will take a photo, but in the meantime I put a photo of my takings below.

The market is famous and very, very touristy--something that did not bother me as I am a tourist. It's an extensive and interesting place. Most of the stands are food, but you can find souvenirs, jewelry, clothes, and various novelties. Most tourists come for the stroopwaffels, which are wafers filled with caramel. But if you want Greek, or Middle Eastern, or chicken nuggets, these are also on offer.

I was after something specific--a hareng brodje, which is a sandwich with pickled herring, onions, and pickles. The pickled herring is beloved by the Dutch, and I like it, too. They eat it straight. I prefer it in sandwich form. The place I went to also offered frites, so I got some of those as well.  I also visited a stand offering Mediterranean food and bought some olives.  Here you go.

What can exceed the bliss of biting into a Dutch style frite, rendered even more unhealthful by having been dipped in mayonnaise?  I think this is one of those things that works well only on its native soil--The Netherlands and Belgium,  When you're here don't be squeamish. Try it!

The herring has a distinct fishy flavor. It would be too strong for me all by itself, but it works nicely in sandwich.

Tot Ziens

An Unexpected Journey

 Wait! Pil, you plan these trips months in advance. How can your journey be unexpected?

My plans changed when I got an email from the airline explaining the plane was broken and the flight was canceled. I learned this the day before I left, but they rebooked me pretty quickly. Instead of flying non stop from LAX to Amsterdam, I was rerouted to Seattle on Alaska Airlines and from thence to Amsterdam on Delta. My wonderful travel agent called me up to make sure this was all right with me. It was.

I'm not used to flying domestically. I was put into First Class on Alaska, which sounds really exciting until one realizes their short haul product is more like Premium Economy. It was very comfortable and the head flight attendant was a hoot. I'd counted on getting into the lounge for a snack, but my flight wasn't long enough so I didn't get in. I was offered a welcome drink on board. I had some sparkling wine--in a paper cup. How inelegant. Wine on an empty stomach isn't a good idea, and I couldn't finish it. I had preordered the fruit and cheese plate, and I was so ravenous I ate it all up without taking a picture.

To get to my connection I took two short subway rides. When I arrived at my gate boarding had started, and I was soon settled into my Delta One Suite--an experience I can warmly recommend to anyone.

                                                

Behold my amenity kit--Orange because we were going to the Netherlands, my bowl of warm salted nuts and some vintage champagne. This time served properly.

The starter was First Rate! Some lovely tomato/basil soup, salad, smoked salmon and roll and butter. YUM! And more champagne, of course. The main course was chicken, mashed potato and mushrooms.

Here's breakfast--quiche, sausages, croissant, granola with strawberry compote and tea. I didn't eat much of it even though it was good.

My plane was not offered a gate and jet way, and we waited for the platform and steps for half an hour, much to the irritation of the pilot. A bus took us to the terminal where we found the automatic doors shut tight, so our bus driver had to go and hunt someone down to open it. Passport control was quick. They didn't seem to use EES or else I was already in the system so they didn't care. My bag came out quickly, too.

I had determined to take public transportation into town. I got my ticket from the machine and found my train. Fortunately Amsterdam's train and metro systems are plentifully provided with lifts, so I had no problems. Once at the Central Station I found the metro, got my ticket. found the line I needed--and got on the train going in the wrong direction. No fear. At the next stop I got out and walked over to the other platform. My ticket was good for an hour so this wasn't cheating.

At the stop I got out. I'd written down directions, but they were not helpful. I resorted to my phone. I was on the right side of the street, but for some reason the phone told me to cross to the other side where I was lost and puzzled. A group of girls came along, and I asked if they could help me. It turned out they were Americans, who insisted on walking me to my hotel and helping me with my luggage. Just lovely people as many Americans are!

So I'm here and settled in albeit jet lagged out of my mind and dehydrated. I'll go exploring tomorrow.

Tot Ziens