Journeying Home

 Guten Tag,

I'm back in Frankfurt waiting at my gate to board. There's a hot dog stand right across from me--constantly busy. I love the real Frankfurters, but I'm resisting because they gave me a good breakfast on the flight here, and I will be fed well on the plane.

I packed up and left very early and went out to wait for my cab. I was concerned because down the street was a huge vehicle blocking the road while it was doing some kind of mysterious maintenance. A delivery man showed up on his motorcycle. Someone from my hotel had ordered something at 5 a.m. and did not have the courtesy to meet the delivery guy. He and I chatted while he waited for his customer, and I waited for my cab. It was late.

Then the cabbie showed up sans vehicle. He apologized because he couldn't get to me because the street was blocked. He parked elsewhere and came to fetch me. We had a quick trip to the airport because it was 5:15 and the streets were empty. Dude deserved a tip. I gave him one.

Then check in and security and a nice flight here. There were only two of us in Business, so we got a lot of kind attention from the charming flight attendant. I scarfed up the breakfast as I was hungry by then.

Once on the ground we had a long bus ride to terminal 1. And I felt like I hiked half way across Germany to get to the Z gates. I had to do the EES thing (passport scan, fingerprints, photo) using a machine. It wasn't bad. Then a line for passport control where I had to do the EES thing over again--because???

Then more long walk, but I'm here and boarding is soon. I get to be among the first to get on.

One thing I've noticed flying business class on several airlines that (except for Delta) the flights back have used older, less cool planes than the flight out. Why is that? Cool planes fly out of LAX. Why not back in. Anyway the seat was OK, less comfortable than the outward journey, and my seat mate was guy who snored. But we had an excellent flight attendant and some good food. I began with an Avionic and some almonds. I also got another nice amenity kit.

                                                

Here is my starter. Note the fancy smoked trout, the horseradish sauce and the roasted vegetables. I drank Champagne with it.

Here is my main meal. The asparagus and potatoes were lovely. The veal tough and dry. I had a bite and the concentrated on the vegetables. Oh and another glass of Champagne. I turned down desert and did not take a picture of the arrival meal, which was really good. It called itself Tapas and there was 
Spanish ham and cheese, olives, roasted peppers and macarons. I had tea with this.

I look Lyft home, and my driver and I were bedeviled by a nut case in a blg black Cadillac.  But I'm home safe--just miserably jet lagged.

Ciao for now

Adoro Verona

 

Buon giorno,

My last day is here because I have a very early flight tomorrow. The kind young lady at reception has booked a taxi for me.  It's about half an hour to the airport, and I have given myself plenty of time to get through security. I won't face EES until I reach Frankfurt.

I took the opportunity to make another circuit of this fascinating city. I did leave the historic center and made two big loops around it. I also like walking along the river. I live in Southern California. Seeing freely flowing water seems like a miracle every time I view it.

I crossed bridges and walked down familiar and unfamiliar streets, liking windows as I walked.

At Piazza Bra there's a small park dedicated to Vittorio Emmanuele II the first king of a united Italy. Here's his statue.  And let's say this does not show truth in advertising--or history. Dude looked like a walrus and evidently was so unrefined that his own Prime Minister avoided spending time with him.

But he made a great figurehead.

I more than made my step count, and I was tired and foot sore. so I'm glad to have a chance to relax before packing up. I've had my apero of green olives and mortadella washed down with a generous amount of Prosecco.

Dinner is linguine with Sugo all' Amatriciana, which is not optimal with Prosecco, but it's good enough.

If you are thinking of visiting Italy for the first time, consider Verona. Of course, everyone wants to see Rome and Florence and for good reason. They are wonderful--but also overwhelming. Verona is doable and simply delightful. It's a beautiful and friendly city, very walkable with worthwhile sights and excellent food and drink. It would be a good warm up for the major cities.

Ciao for now

Exploring Veronetta and a Walk in the Park

Buon giorno,

So it's Monday and a lot of tourist sites are closed. Moreover, there's a train strike, so I decided what I needed--given the weather is nice--is a good long walk, and I found a park to take it in.  I learned that the section of the city north of the Adige is called Veronetta and the hills bore walls that protected the city. I made my way there and took the funicular up.

I ran into a friendly Austrian couple and their handsome beagle. They were from Vienna, and I was happy to praise their city and very grateful no one seems to resent my being from the United States.

Once up the hill I found signs directing me to Il Parco del Muro or the Park of the Wall. It was up hill and the path was rough. Not really a place for an old lady, but I did stroll around. 

                                                

I came down again and followed the road down through several switchbacks,  I had no idea where I was, but I have been in this situation before, and I've found the best thing is to keep going. I figured if I kept going down, eventually I'd come to the river, and so it proved. In fact I fetched up beside the funicular entrance.

I crossed the Adige on the Ponte Pietra, which I learned was a Roman bridge that has been lovingly maintained. Foot and bike traffic only.  I made my way back to the center of town. On my way out, I'd passed a souvenir shop that featured something I wished to give to a non-blog reader.  It look some searching around to find the place again, but I did and made my purchase.  One of the pleasures of travel is sharing with others.

                                                                

Of course I passed many outdoor cafes and restaurants where people were enjoying their Aperol Spritzes. Europeans generally have a bite when they drink, and the bite of choice for apero is--potato chips. Really. I have been told before that I'm making this up, but my eyes don't lie. They are crisp and salty, so good?

But all that walking! I felt I'd earned some gelato and went to get it. I frequent a place where there is almost always a line. This is good sign. Once again I had chocolate, amarena, and nocchiola.  Ooh. Heaven comes close to Earth. But that's a lot of sugar, so I'm going to have to stop now.

But I was worn out, so I took my gelato home.

But I'm still having dinner, which today is risotto milanese in the microwave, and it's come out remarkably good. OK not as good as fresh made, but still--all right.

Ciao for now

A Palazzo and Some Shopping

 Buon giorno,

The weather has turned sunny and warm. I ended up just wearing a short sleeved t-shirt--along with my pants of course.  And it was warm enough that I treated myself to gelato. To my favorites hazelnut and amarena, I added a rich chocolate. The perfect combination. All three favors were divine. Be advised. Gelato is not the same as ice cream. Enough non-Italians crave the stuff, so that it's become available elsewhere--even in the United States.

I ran into a community marathon. One of the receptionists warned me, so I was not surprised to see runners. What did surprise me was the crowd of walkers--of all ages and some with their dogs. They looked to be having a grand time, and it was most pleasant to see.

I did do something touristy besides eating gelato. The Museo Miniscalchi Erizzo is not well known and has limited visiting hours. It's housed in a Renaissance building and is packed with art treasures of all sorts as the family were avid collectors.  The cases hold everything from antiquities to Renaissance statuettes, to natural history, to weapons, and the walls are full of some very nice paintings. There are a few period rooms with some very lovely furniture.

Then I went strolling around. I got my gelato and picked up a few things. I did not quite make my 10K step goal, but I got around a lot and even found some Roman remains I'd not seen before.  

As always on my wanderings I was struck by the beauty and charm of Verona. Judging by the crowds on the streets and the languages I heard it's become a popular destination.

I'm not drinking Prosecco for a change but I sparkling wine called Ribolla Gialla. It's Ok. I'd never heard of it, but no surprise. It's not as good as Prosecco. Dinner is linguine with the last of the pesto. So good. Earlier I'd eaten some tuna, so I've had sufficient protein.

Ciao for now

Brescia: Misadventures in Transporation

 Buon giorno,

My trip back was smooth, but betting to Brescia was a bit fraught. I wanted to take day trips, and finally the weather cooperated. It was a bit chilly, and it rained when I was on the bus but otherwise it was dry and sunny.

Brecia was recommended as a day trip from Verona because it's easy to get to (Ha!) and had a pleasant historic center.  Trains are frequent. I'd already got my city bus tickets and scouted out the bus stop. I set out early. A bus came along that listed the station as a stop. I got on. Bad choice. It did take me to the train station--eventually--but I got a tour of the Veronese suburbs. Then the driver stopped and messed around with the bus controls and took a break and had a snack. When we resumed the journey we went back the way we came. I was thinking I'd better get off when the next stop was the station.

Then we were met by the transportation police who were checking I.D.s and tickets. Of course, I had a ticket . . . . I just couldn't find it!  I showed her my passport. I think because I was a foreigner, she figured I was telling the truth about the ticket, and actually she was the one who spotted it. One of her collegues had a machine that showed I'd validated it. She teased me a little (which I deserved) and told me to keep the ticket in my pocket next time. This I did.

Then I was confused in the train station. I tried to use a machine to buy a ticket. It wanted a lot of personal information, but rejected my email address. Then I got in line at the ticket office. Someone told me that I had to take a number. I found the machine and got a number. A kindly Italian woman who spoke no English, took me by the arm and lead me to the line. It moved quickly. I got a ticket and off to the train.

It was an express to Milano calling at Brescia. I found a nice window seat and enjoyed looking at the lush green Italian countryside.  The conductor came around. Uh oh. My ticket was not valid on this fancy express train. He was actually pretty nice about it, but I had to get off at the next stop and wait. Fortunately not for long.  The pleb train was packed and I had to stand, but that was all right. The trip wasn't long.

Brescia is nicely sign posted, so I walked to the town center Piazza di Vittoria. I also snooted around a nearby market, but it was mostly clothes and household wares. Brescia's center is very pleasant, but there wasn't a lot to keep me there, so I took the metro back to the station.

And here I am at home.  While at the train station we were informed of a train strike, But I can get to my next destination by bus. I won't like this but Imma do it.

Ciao for now

Verona in Some Pelting Rain

                                                         

Buon giorno,

Only one photo today--a view from Porta Nuova that I crossing going to and from the National Archaeological Museum of Verona. I happen to enjoy looking at Prehistoric remains, but I realize this is not for everyone.

When I set out it was pouring and chilly. I found my target and then my umbrella malfunctioned. I couldn't close it!  The nice men at the museum assured me that it was fine to leave it open as I visited the museum. I left my bags in a locker and proceeded upstairs.

Now it happens that this area with its rivers valleys and proximity to the Alps, has been a favored spot for human habitation starting with the Neanderthals. They co-existed with Homo Sapiens for a while. At any rate the collection is rich and varied from the Mousterian right up until Roman occupation.

The artifacts are well exhibited, and I appreciated the informative placards explaining what was in the cases. One thing I found especially fascinating was the rocks painted with ochre or engraved with figures of animals.

When I emerged it was still raining hard, and it was cold. I came home and managed to close my umbrella. Whew! If I couldn't close it, I would not be able to pack it. I made myself a cup of tea and turned oin the bike race.

Yes, amici, it's Il Giro d'Italia--a crucial stage with a steep long climb to finish. I do not know how the riders manage to get themselves up hills, I'd be hard pressed to climb on foot.  The crummy weather also is infesting the South of Italy where the race is now. Slippery roads are dangerous roads.  But the stage may do much to establish the eventual winner.

Pil, you understand that most people regard your passion for European road cycling as bizaare.

I do understand, and I don't care.  Jonas Vingegaard may be on the verge of winning All Three Grand Tours. But apart from the actual race, a helicopter flies around showing us the gorgeous Italian countryside plus any historic spots the race is near.  This encourages tourism. Some of us do not need such encouragement. 

Dinner is linguine with pesto. So simple and yet so divine. When the hot pasta hits the pesto the scent of the basil rises. Oooh!

Ciao for now.

Out and About in Verona

 

Buon giorno,

I had planned to go on a day trip, but the forecast was for bad weather, so I didn'tt. As it happened all we got was a little light rain, and I could have gone without a problem. I had prepared, too. I went to a Tabachi for bus tickets. The man spoke little English. That's ok. I speak very little Italian, but I managed to make my wants understood. The man laughed a little and told me my Italian was enough, He said this in Italian, and I understood.  I also scouted out the nearest bus stop. Oh well. There's always tomorrow.

I had one more church on my inclusive ticket so I made may way to San Fermo. The martyrs Fermo and Rustico were killed on the banks of the Adige, and a church dedicated to them was built in the Fourth Century. That church is long gone, but I visited the Benedictine Monastery (later run by the Franciscans) built in the Tenth and Eleventh Centuries. If you ever find yourself in Verona, do not miss these churches. Everyone of them is magnificent, and you will find yourself enraptured by the beauty and history.

San Fermo comes in two parts. There's a lower church which is pure Romanesque. Like other churches in Verona it displays remarkably well preserved frescos.

Climb the stairs to the upper church, which was advertised as Gothic. It's not. It's in the Renaissance Style with some Baroque add ons, and it is gorgeous. As with the other churches I opted for the audio guide and found it very helpful and informative.

The skies had cleared when I emerged, so I strolled around seeing parts of the historic center I had not seen before. Verona is so beautiful that just walking around is a pleasure.

But I also had a goal. I determined to return to that fun food store to obtain goodies. This I did. I came away with some more pasta--some for me and some for a non-blog reader. I also got some goal cheese--a big old hunk, and a local sausage. As these all featured first class ingredients, it cost me, but when I'm on a trip indulgence is my middle name.

And speaking of indulgence, I supplemented my usual apero of olives and almonds with Bresaola. This is cured beef from the Valtellina on the borders of Switzerland. If it exists in the United States, it's hard to find and expensive. That's why I'm eating it here and now.

For dinner I broke into the bag of short pasta, shell-like shape called lunache. This is made exclusively from wheat grown in the Veneto and is made according to traditional methods including using a bronze extruder. I've dressed it with some jarred sauce I got from the store--Amatriciana--which is from Central Italy. Italians use much less sauce on pasta than Americans typically do. I used the Italian way, and it's very good.  I'm using high quality pasta, so I need to let it shine through.

Ciao for now