I Gambled and Lost

 Buon giorno,

I was concerned, rightly as it turned out, about the Pasta alla Norma. It wasn't the tomato sauce. I can tolerate sauces. I guessing that it was the combination of eggplant and very al dente pasta. I am not used to tough chewy pasta, and neither is my elderly digestion. So I woke up with cramps. I'm feeling better now, but I thought I had better say in. You can see my living room above.  I'm sitting on a sofa, you can't see. You'll have a glimpse of my kitchenette, and the door to the hallway leading to my bedroom.

My apartment is at the top of the house, and I have sky lights in the ceiling. I don't open them, but they allow me to enjoy the sound of falling rain, something I find very soothing.

I like Catania. When I was reading about the place in preparation for my visit, I thought the streets and sidewalks made of lava blocks would make the place dreary. This is not the case. The gray surfaces are unusual, but now I'm used to them, and I can appreciate the ingenuity of using this abundant resource.

A lot of the historic center is beautiful if a bit run down. It's easy to get around. A large part of my fitness program is coming to Europe and walking. Catania offers many possibilities, especially going up and down hill.

Ad the people are very gracious to visitors. It's hard for me to describe their surprised delight when I manage to croak out a phrase or two in Italian. I speak slowly and clearly, but I feel sure my accent is execrable. But they are thinking, "Ecco, la Americana. Ci prova parlare in Italiano. Brava!" Behold the American lady. She tries to speak Italian. Good!

And then there's how thrilled they are when I mention Los Angles. I have to shake my head over that one.

My appetite is returning. Later on I'll have some nice linguine with a lot of olive oil and a modest sprinkle of parmesan. That should be bland enough.

Ciao for now.

Pasta alla Norma

 

Buon giorno,

I figured it would be rude to come to Catania, home to Bellini and his famous Opera Norma and not have the iconic pasta dish that honored the work. This took some doing. Many resteruants and cafes offer the dish, but I keep early hours, and I like to come home, take off my contact lenses and my shoes and socks and relax into dinner.

I ordered my pasta al dente, and it is really very chewy. To wash it down I have some DOP Sicilian red. Av very nice combination, I must say. There are small pieces of eggplant in a sweetish tomato sauce with plenty of parmesan. I hope it does not screw up my digestion.

I found a place near the Duomo that does take away, and I determined to attend it. But first I had to find the joint, which should have been easy, but wasn't for me. At last I spotted it and went in. One orders by machine, which I figured out. I was paying in coin--also by machine, but I put my coins in the wrong way. Uh oh. Fortunately I know how to say I'm sorry in Italian: Mi dispiace. I must say the young man was very gracious about it, and we both thought it was funny.  He finally dug out all the misplaced coins, and I was launched. Each dish is cooked to order, but it does not take long. I do have to comment that both the cook and the manager were Very Handsome Young Men. An enhancement of the experience.

But then I had to drag my carcass and food up the hill. I have actually covered a lot of ground today.

I began with a trip to the grocery store. Then I went out to stroll. Near the Fish Market, I came upon the Sunday flea market, which is quite extensive.I had a good time walking around looking at the goods on offer. Some of it is junk, but most of the stands offered quality goods, and a few catered to collectors. I saw a lot of fun things, but nothing I really wanted or could pack, so my cash stayed in my purse. But if you are in need of jewelry, or pretty old china, this is the place for you.

So the bottom line, what with one thing and another, I walked over 13,000 steps today. I think I earned the Pasta alla Norma.

Ciao for now.

Rainy Saturday in Catania

Buon giorno,

I gave myself a fairly easy day today, but I did get out and walk and snoot around. I don't walk as many steps as I did in Amsterdam, but I'm going up and down hill constantly, so I think it works out. It was cool and overcast when I set out (unlike conditions at home!) and after a while gentle rain began to fall. As an experienced traveler I ALWAYS carry an umbrella. Just in cast. And often it is the case.

One feature of most Italian cities is cats. I saw one sheltering in a doorway, and it kindly consented for me to scratch its furry head.

Anywhere you go in Catania, you can find a juice stand. The proprietor cuts and squishes the fruit before your very eyes. I imagine this is incredibly fresh and refreshing, but juice does not agree with me, so I'll never know. They seem popular though.

I strolled through the market near the fish market. No fish but plenty of meat and cheeses and well as fruit and veg on offer.

After strolling around and licking many a window, I fetched up at at a food shop on Via Giuseppe Garabaldi where I had been before. It's a beauitful shop with many enticing goodies, and I was enticed. I was intrtiged by something called "Fuoco della Etna," which I feared would be hot and spicey, but which we determined to be a very strong strawberry liqueur. I got a small bottle to try tomorrow and another small bottle of cinnamon liqueur plus some pistasccio cookies. The proprietor seemed so nice that I ventured to speak Italian to him, and I understood what he said to me! He asked me where I was from ,and I got the usual reaction to Los Angeles--"Spettaculo!" Fabulous!  It really makes me wonder what sort of glamor my city projects abroad. I mean I live a long way from Hollywood, which is actually kinda sleazy these days.

I returned home to dig into those lovely olives I got from the market. And I sipped limoncello and ate some tuna. Dinner is linguine with walnut sauce. MMM. Walnut pesto pasta is very tasty indeed and probably healthful to boot. I'm going to learn to make this at home.

Ciao for now

Monasterio San Benedetto

 Buon giorno,

I asked for my room to be done today, so I vacacted a bit early to give housekeeping a chance to do their job. I do like wandering around Catania. There are a lot of handsome buildings, albeit a bit run down, and some fun windows to lick.

I went down to the piazzas near Santa Agata because I'd spotted a reliable ATM there. I got some cash. Bleah. The exchange rate is hideous, but it 's also good to have plenty of cash on hand.

My target for today is Il Monasterio de San Benedetto. I don't know why they use the word monastery. It's a convent with enclosed nuns of the Benedictine order. I would not have known about the place except our tour guide on the walking tour I took my first full day here stopped and described it.  The novices enter, and if they become nuns, they never leave. The exception is that they may stand by the side of the road to watch the pagent of Santa Agata. Nevertheless, our guide, who has met and spoke to the nuns, described them as very happy. According to the website, they arise early, attend mass, and their days are divided between worship and work.

The site is open just two or three days a week, and I did not see a single nun. They, no doubt were busy at their work and were not interesting in seeing me.

One loads an audio guide on one's phone. I had to keep reloading it because I wanted to take photos. The convent is built on the site of a Roman townhouse.

Then one climbs the stairs to a meeting room.

The main event is the chapel. Remember how austere Santa Agata looked?  Here we have the opposite. The art historical concept horror vacui comes to mind. The place is beautiful, and I found the decorations very compelling.

                                                    

After that I made my way down Via Etnea and did some shopping, but then I had to drag myself and my purchases up a long hill to home. Fortunately my room was done, and I could relax shoveling olvies and almonds down my throat while having a sip or two of limoncello and green tea.

I enjoyed the pasta and pesto so much yesterday, I'm going to have it again.

Ciao for Now

Palazzo Biscari

 

Buon giorno,

I could sit here all afternoon sipping aperitifs and eating those lush black olives I got from the market. But no. Duty calls, and I'll blog instead.

I began my day with a trip to the grocery store. One thing I got was a selection of sauces for my pasta. Now no self-respecting Italian would buy premade sauce like this--maybe in a pinch a jar of tomato sauce they could dress up--but I am not a self respecting Italian, and I like to try a variety of things. This is a good way.

Today's target was Palazzo Biscari. Now Catania used to be simply sick with one aristocratic palazzo after another in the historic center. Most of them have converted to hotels, apartments, or office buildings. They are labeled and you can see them as you walk by, but you can't visit. So I was glad to be able to attend Palazzo Biscari.

The original palace of the Princes of Biscari was destroyed in the Great Earthquake, so the current structure was built in the fashionable Baroque style. The Biscari Family still owns the joint, and it is also classified as an UNESCO World Heritage site. If you own a palazzo or something like it, the only way to keep it up is to open it to the public and charge admission and rent it out for events. Not all the palace can be visited, and I suspect the family when they're in town stays in the private rooms.

Worth a visit, eh, Pil?

I would say so, especially as such sites are so rare in Catania. It's not too far from the Duomo, and it does not cost a lot to get in, but once you are in there's not much guidance for an English speaker. Because I taught Art History, I can understand a lot of the iconography in the decorations. There's some nice furniture, and I enjoyed the state rooms, and the more intimate "real people" rooms. But I'll let the pictures do the talking.

Have a look at the beautiful tiled floor on this next one.

Finally, a look at a Catania skyline from the palazzo's balcony.

Today's dinner is linguine with pesto and a sprinkling of parmigiano regiano. Yumsy Maxxing.

Ciao for now

Al Mercato--Piazza Carlo Alberto

 

Buon giorno,

My day started out in a less-than-optimal way when the power went out. Fortunately I'd already had my tea and breakfast, but I was stuck in the dark with only my computer screen for light, and I had to use my phone's hot spot because the internet was out, too, and also there was no water. After a little over an hour (it seemed much longer than that!) the power and water returned, and I was able to go about my business.

It's the 960th anniversary of the Norman Conquest of England. The Normans also conquered Sicily, and there's a cool looking Norman castle used as the civic museum. It would make an ideal destination for today, but alas it's closed for renovations.

I decided to go to Catania's other market, which I understood to be more comprehensive and less touristy.  The directions seemed straightforward, but I got turned around and could not find the street I needed--or so I thought. I was on the correct street, but it wasn't labeled, and I didn't realize I had to cross Via Etnea.

The market is huge. It begins very early in the morning. I was there mid morning, and the place was packed. It's mostly food, but some tourist stuff as well as household goods are on offer. I was astounded at the variety--and beauty--of the fruits and vegetables, some of which I did not recognize. 

                                                

I dared not buy any as tempting as they were because I know from sad experience that the ingestion of foreign veg leads to gastric disaster.  

The exception is olives, which are OK because they've been cured. So after hunting around I found an olive stand presided over by two very good looking young men. One of them spoke English, and I got my loot. Friends, they taste as good as they look!

I had a stroll around the quiet streets near the market, and decided to visit Rinascente, the fancy department store. Most Italian cities have one. I helped myself to some perfume. Guerlain has reformulated L'heure bleu, but I like the old one better. I went downstairs to snoot around their food and wine department. Then I headed for home.

Apero is a bit different today. I have my almonds but also some of those lush black Sicilian olives plus some grappa. Grappa is distilled from wine left overs. I've heard much of it, but I got a small bottle because, although I feel obliged to try it, I don't think I'm going to like it. Let's have sip. I was right. I don't like it. The high alcohol content makes it fiery.  I'm feeling the booze after just two small sips. I suppose one could cook with the stuff, but I'm going to pour it out

For dinner, I am also doing something different, but it's still pasta. I've having tortellini filled with spinach and ricotta. I'll douse it in garlic and olive oil.

Ciao for now.

Santa Agata and Some Wandering

 Buon giorno,

It's another muggy afternoon.My apartment has air conditioning should I need it. So far I have not.  I looked up the times of services at St. Agatha, so I could time my arrival and actually get in.

But before that, I decided to stroll up Via Giuseppe Garabaldi to have a look at the Garabaldi Arch. Because of my wanderings, I have a good sense of the layout of the historical center and can find my way around very easily. I had plenty of windows to lick along the way, but Dang! the traffic!!. Drivers in Catania do not actually want to hit pedestrians, but they are also extremely reluctant to stop for us even when we are in a cross walk.Whew.  Here's the arch. I was much closer to it than the photo indicates, and it is quite large even though you can barely see it.

I made my way back down the hill to Il Duomo--the Cathedral. But then I spotted a nice looking shop, so I went in and looked around.  I made a couple of purchases, one of which I will discuss later. The kindly proprietor was amused and charmed by my (feeble) attempts to speak Italian. He was also pleased I gave him exact change.

On to Il Duomo. St. Agatha was a Virgin Martyr. I'm not going to recount her gruesome ordeal, but every bakery has very sweet cakes in her honor. In Palermo they're called cassaita. Catania has a different them, and each cake it crowned by a maraschino cherry.

I was surprised by the cathedral. Usually Baroque churches are highly decorated and very ornate. Santa Agata is remarkably plain, and yet the interior is harmonious and beautiful.  Here is the nave.

This is one of the side aisles. Very pure. Very clean.

Then I made my slow weary way up hill to home. I've had my apero and I included a couple of lemon cookies I bought at the shop along with my almonds. They were very tasty. Now I'm looking forward to a nice dinner of linguine dressed with cacio e pepe and some of that good Sicilian red wine.

Ciao for Now