Two "Failed" Painters

 

Goden Dag,

I don't know if the Dutch do apero. I certainly do, and I see plenty of places offering Aperol Spritz, but I'm having olives, almonds, and sauvignon blanc, none of which is exactly Dutch. But I am old, and I get legitimately tired. For example I got a lot of sleep last night the result of walking more than 13K steps yesterday. I did not walk that many today, but it was more than 10K. I've earned my snack and drink. And I made it back in time to enjoy the Tour stage.

So who are these "failed" painters? They are world renowned today, and any work of theirs that comes on the market sells for tens of millions of dollars. But in their lifetimes, they found little success and recognition, nevertheless, they are the two most famous of Dutch artists: Rembrandt van Rijn and Vincent Van Gogh. Both of them developed distinct styles that appeal to u but were too far from contemporary conventions to please the public.

I booked entrance times and got tickets using my museum card, and consulted the map so I could get from one to the next.  I showed up just a little late to the Van Gogh museum and realized I'd left my museum card behind, so I had to pay for my ticket. 

I'd been to the Van Gogh Museum before, and I remember loving it. Of course, institutions evolve, and the museum is now more dedicated to putting Van Gogh's work in Art Historical context and exhibiting artists who were influences or friends of his. There's an impressive exhibit of the works of Paul Gauguin, for example. But I was here to see Vincent, and I missed the discussion of his symbolism and use of color to express emotions.  I did see some paintings I had not seen before. Here's one I really liked.

Don't get me wrong. The museum is definitely worth a visit and the paintings are well displayed, and there's some touching information about Vincent's brother Theo and his devoted wife. Let's give Theo Van Gogh credit. I don't think we would have had Vincent without him.

I had enough time to go home and fetch my museum card before setting out to Rembrandt's House.  I have visited it before, but I did not remember the neighborhood. It was quite a stroll crossing many bridges over canals.

Rembrandt's House Museum is truth in advertising. This is the actual house that Rembrandt and his bride Saskia bought., complete with narrow, steep, and twisting staircases.  As long as Saskia lived Rembrandt's career prospered, when she died following the birth of their son, things began to decline. He spent too much and sold too few paintings. This was the Golden Age of the Dutch Republic, but popular taste passed him by. 

See the small bed? He worked here sometimes and slept sitting up. The Dutch used to believe that lying down was dangerous. 

This is the studio where he taught some pupils.

 The irony, as the museum, points out, is that we owe the recreation of Rembrandt's house to his bankruptcy and forced sale of his belongings. They were catalogued and could be recovered. His only surviving child, Cornelia, ended up in the Dutch colony in South Africa. He may have descendants.

Tot Ziens

The Rijksmuseum

 

Gode Dag,

Having obtained my Amsterdam Card making my reservation for my timed entrance was easy.  I'll be frank; the Rijksmuseum is a Project, and I'm not going to blame anyone for feeling overwhelmed or becoming bored with corporation portraits and seascapes, but there enough gems to make a visit very worthwhile.

The day being fine, I set out early and had a pleasant walk along a leafy canal and admired some fancy canal houses.

Then when I was waiting to cross the street--using the pedestrian crosswalk as was proper, I was cussed out in vulgar fashion and in English by a guy on a motorcycle, who decided I was not sufficiently near the curb. Welcome to Amsterdam. But on a serious note, be alert to the bicycle paths and do not walk in them. Always look around for riders. It's easier for you to stop than for them.

I strolled around some more and then got in line for the museum. I was early, but the nice young man said, "No problem." I had the ticket on my phone and the Amsterdam Card in my pocket. Both were scanned, and in I went.

Everyone (me, too) is here for Rembrandt and in my case also Vermeer, but there's a lot to see and enjoy. It's mostly paintings, but some beautiful furniture and objets d'arte are on display as well as some sculptures and tapestries, Because of the guided tour groups parking themselves in front of the masterpieces, you probably won't get a really good look at Rembrandt's more intimate and moving pieces, but there's always the Nightwatch under restoration but visible under glass. The Captain Frans Banninck Cocq looks completely out of his depth. Rembrandt could not help but paint the truth.

Given my taste for Late Medieval and Renaissance Art I also enjoyed these exhibits tremendously. The collection of Polychrome Statuary is outstanding. Here's a small sample.

I decided that to honor the Grand Depart of the Tour de France today, I'd have some fish and chips from the fish joint at Albert Cuyp Market. Here's the promised photo, but that's just the start. The stalls go on and on and on.  The food was really good. The Dutch like their fish in chunks unlike the English, but the principle is the same--batter and fry.

Uh, Pil, it's a Very Special Independence Day. It's OK that you're abroad, but don't you have anything to say on the 250th anniversary of the Declaration of Independence?

All right. I taught United States History for many years. I am deeply familiar with not only the Declaration, but our Constitution. As it happened, the colonies developed in such a way that we were no longer British and needed to be our own nation. And we are a nation founded upon ideals and principles rather than tribal or religious identity. We are founded both on individual liberty and civic duty. Those ideals and principles are sound, and my wish is that our country live up to them.

Tot Ziens

Visiting the Tourist Office

 

Goden Dag.

It's my day to have my room done,and who knows when that will happen? I'm tired having put inn more than 11K steps today, so I've done something I seldom do. I brought a snack of olives and almonds and my computer down to the lounge/bar for my aperitivo. There's no bartender, Citadines depends on its residents honesty.I bought myself a Belgian beer, and mighty refreshing it is too.

Now I'mgoingto watch the Team Presentation for the Tour de France. It starts tomorrow in Barcelona and promises to be a terrific contest. I could go on and on about it, but I'll spare you.

 began my day with a trip to the grocery store. I especially wanted more of that lovely Beemster cheese, but I searched for it in vain. I got some Gouda instead, and one can't really go wrong with Dutch cheese. Should you find yourself in Amsterdam and crave cheese, you cannot escape it. Cheese shops are everywhere!

For all that walking I did not accomplish much today, but that's about to change. I have been trying to buy an Amsterdam Card on line, which will give me free admission to sites and allow me to book my entry day and time. Most of the major sites in Amsterdam require this, and it's common in many European capitals. I approve of the system, especially for visitors to Anne Frank's House because previously wait times would be two or three hours.

But though I tried multiple times to buy my desired card, my request was rejected. The only thing left for me was to go to the tourist office called I am Amsterdam at the Station Centraal. You can see the neo Gothic station abaove.

Aayway, I found the tourist office and expressed my desire. The nice young ladies at the service desk said the product was available only on line. I explained the proble and we messed around on my phone--to no avail. It simply did not work.  Eventually, instead of the card I wanted, I got a three day card that also includes public transportation. I'll probably not use it much because I come to Europe to walk. I certainly appreciated the time and trouble the young ladies took for me.

Then I strolled around the city. I went to the Dam Square. I passed the major department store of the city. I used to go in to yse the toilet, but I still had to pay. The name means bee hive.

Even the shopping malls in Amsterdam are in historic buildings

                                                

Here is the royal palace. The Family lives at the Hague, so tourists can visit this building, and I intend to.

A family has come to take advantage of the lounge. The children are noisy, so I can barely hear my computer.  They are having lunch and behaving normally, so I''ll just have to deal. And once they left, the vacuuming began. The guy did such a thorough long-lasting job that I did not hear much of the Team Presentation. And my room is not yet done, and I have no idea when it will be.

Tot Ziens

Land o' Cheese and Herring

 

Goden Dag

I went to the grocery store yesterday afternoon. Among my takings was some solid Dutch bread and Beemster Cheese. The latter is a smooth semi hard cows milk cheese that makes a great breakfast.

The weather has turned. I left my hotel, then realized, yep. I had better take an umbrella and went back for it. I was soon glad as it began to drizzle and then pour. Where I'm from this would be called a storm. In Amsterdam it's Thursday.  I'd decided to visit two markets. The photo above is of Prinzengracht just down the street from me. I'm fascinated by the houseboats. Some are for rent as accommodation, but I wouldn't want to stay in one alone.

First stop was the Bloemenmarkt. It's very touristy, but this is Amsterdam's famous flower market. Tulip season is over, but the place is still worth a visit. They will happily sell you all sorts of flower-related goods and souvenirs.  Bins of bulbs and packets of seeds abound. Now these would be promptly confiscated at my port of entry probably found out by seed sniffing dogs.  The wooden tulips are cute, and I may bring some back.

I strolled around the canals licking windows and getting pelted by rain. Fortunately it was not cold, but I could have done without the wind. By this time I needed a toilet, and I did not want to pay, so I made my way home. I soon set out again for market number two.  But here's the thing. I took my phone out of my purse to recharge it, and then forgot it. I will be returning to Albert Cuyp Market and will take a photo, but in the meantime I put a photo of my takings below.

The market is famous and very, very touristy--something that did not bother me as I am a tourist. It's an extensive and interesting place. Most of the stands are food, but you can find souvenirs, jewelry, clothes, and various novelties. Most tourists come for the stroopwaffels, which are wafers filled with caramel. But if you want Greek, or Middle Eastern, or chicken nuggets, these are also on offer.

I was after something specific--a hareng brodje, which is a sandwich with pickled herring, onions, and pickles. The pickled herring is beloved by the Dutch, and I like it, too. They eat it straight. I prefer it in sandwich form. The place I went to also offered frites, so I got some of those as well.  I also visited a stand offering Mediterranean food and bought some olives.  Here you go.

What can exceed the bliss of biting into a Dutch style frite, rendered even more unhealthful by having been dipped in mayonnaise?  I think this is one of those things that works well only on its native soil--The Netherlands and Belgium,  When you're here don't be squeamish. Try it!

The herring has a distinct fishy flavor. It would be too strong for me all by itself, but it works nicely in sandwich.

Tot Ziens

An Unexpected Journey

 Wait! Pil, you plan these trips months in advance. How can your journey be unexpected?

My plans changed when I got an email from the airline explaining the plane was broken and the flight was canceled. I learned this the day before I left, but they rebooked me pretty quickly. Instead of flying non stop from LAX to Amsterdam, I was rerouted to Seattle on Alaska Airlines and from thence to Amsterdam on Delta. My wonderful travel agent called me up to make sure this was all right with me. It was.

I'm not used to flying domestically. I was put into First Class on Alaska, which sounds really exciting until one realizes their short haul product is more like Premium Economy. It was very comfortable and the head flight attendant was a hoot. I'd counted on getting into the lounge for a snack, but my flight wasn't long enough so I didn't get in. I was offered a welcome drink on board. I had some sparkling wine--in a paper cup. How inelegant. Wine on an empty stomach isn't a good idea, and I couldn't finish it. I had preordered the fruit and cheese plate, and I was so ravenous I ate it all up without taking a picture.

To get to my connection I took two short subway rides. When I arrived at my gate boarding had started, and I was soon settled into my Delta One Suite--an experience I can warmly recommend to anyone.

                                                

Behold my amenity kit--Orange because we were going to the Netherlands, my bowl of warm salted nuts and some vintage champagne. This time served properly.

The starter was First Rate! Some lovely tomato/basil soup, salad, smoked salmon and roll and butter. YUM! And more champagne, of course. The main course was chicken, mashed potato and mushrooms.

Here's breakfast--quiche, sausages, croissant, granola with strawberry compote and tea. I didn't eat much of it even though it was good.

My plane was not offered a gate and jet way, and we waited for the platform and steps for half an hour, much to the irritation of the pilot. A bus took us to the terminal where we found the automatic doors shut tight, so our bus driver had to go and hunt someone down to open it. Passport control was quick. They didn't seem to use EES or else I was already in the system so they didn't care. My bag came out quickly, too.

I had determined to take public transportation into town. I got my ticket from the machine and found my train. Fortunately Amsterdam's train and metro systems are plentifully provided with lifts, so I had no problems. Once at the Central Station I found the metro, got my ticket. found the line I needed--and got on the train going in the wrong direction. No fear. At the next stop I got out and walked over to the other platform. My ticket was good for an hour so this wasn't cheating.

At the stop I got out. I'd written down directions, but they were not helpful. I resorted to my phone. I was on the right side of the street, but for some reason the phone told me to cross to the other side where I was lost and puzzled. A group of girls came along, and I asked if they could help me. It turned out they were Americans, who insisted on walking me to my hotel and helping me with my luggage. Just lovely people as many Americans are!

So I'm here and settled in albeit jet lagged out of my mind and dehydrated. I'll go exploring tomorrow.

Tot Ziens

Journeying Home

 Guten Tag,

I'm back in Frankfurt waiting at my gate to board. There's a hot dog stand right across from me--constantly busy. I love the real Frankfurters, but I'm resisting because they gave me a good breakfast on the flight here, and I will be fed well on the plane.

I packed up and left very early and went out to wait for my cab. I was concerned because down the street was a huge vehicle blocking the road while it was doing some kind of mysterious maintenance. A delivery man showed up on his motorcycle. Someone from my hotel had ordered something at 5 a.m. and did not have the courtesy to meet the delivery guy. He and I chatted while he waited for his customer, and I waited for my cab. It was late.

Then the cabbie showed up sans vehicle. He apologized because he couldn't get to me because the street was blocked. He parked elsewhere and came to fetch me. We had a quick trip to the airport because it was 5:15 and the streets were empty. Dude deserved a tip. I gave him one.

Then check in and security and a nice flight here. There were only two of us in Business, so we got a lot of kind attention from the charming flight attendant. I scarfed up the breakfast as I was hungry by then.

Once on the ground we had a long bus ride to terminal 1. And I felt like I hiked half way across Germany to get to the Z gates. I had to do the EES thing (passport scan, fingerprints, photo) using a machine. It wasn't bad. Then a line for passport control where I had to do the EES thing over again--because???

Then more long walk, but I'm here and boarding is soon. I get to be among the first to get on.

One thing I've noticed flying business class on several airlines that (except for Delta) the flights back have used older, less cool planes than the flight out. Why is that? Cool planes fly out of LAX. Why not back in. Anyway the seat was OK, less comfortable than the outward journey, and my seat mate was guy who snored. But we had an excellent flight attendant and some good food. I began with an Avionic and some almonds. I also got another nice amenity kit.

                                                

Here is my starter. Note the fancy smoked trout, the horseradish sauce and the roasted vegetables. I drank Champagne with it.

Here is my main meal. The asparagus and potatoes were lovely. The veal tough and dry. I had a bite and then concentrated on the vegetables. Oh and another glass of Champagne. I turned down desert and did not take a picture of the arrival meal, which was really good. It called itself Tapas and there was 
Spanish ham and cheese, olives, roasted peppers and macarons. I had tea with this.

I look Lyft home, and my driver and I were bedeviled by a nut case in a blg black Cadillac.  But I'm home safe--just miserably jet lagged.

Ciao for now

Adoro Verona

 

Buon giorno,

My last day is here because I have a very early flight tomorrow. The kind young lady at reception has booked a taxi for me.  It's about half an hour to the airport, and I have given myself plenty of time to get through security. I won't face EES until I reach Frankfurt.

I took the opportunity to make another circuit of this fascinating city. I did leave the historic center and made two big loops around it. I also like walking along the river. I live in Southern California. Seeing freely flowing water seems like a miracle every time I view it.

I crossed bridges and walked down familiar and unfamiliar streets, liking windows as I walked.

At Piazza Bra there's a small park dedicated to Vittorio Emmanuele II the first king of a united Italy. Here's his statue.  And let's say this does not show truth in advertising--or history. Dude looked like a walrus and evidently was so unrefined that his own Prime Minister avoided spending time with him.

But he made a great figurehead.

I more than made my step count, and I was tired and foot sore. so I'm glad to have a chance to relax before packing up. I've had my apero of green olives and mortadella washed down with a generous amount of Prosecco.

Dinner is linguine with Sugo all' Amatriciana, which is not optimal with Prosecco, but it's good enough.

If you are thinking of visiting Italy for the first time, consider Verona. Of course, everyone wants to see Rome and Florence and for good reason. They are wonderful--but also overwhelming. Verona is doable and simply delightful. It's a beautiful and friendly city, very walkable with worthwhile sights and excellent food and drink. It would be a good warm up for the major cities.

Ciao for now