The Knights of St. John

 

I was a genuine tourist today. I meant after my historical sites visit to walk down by the harbor but the weather has turned and it's rainy and blustery. The harbor will still be there when the sun comes out.

I bought my tickets on line, getting discounts for being old. I chose my targets because they are major sites, but also nearby me and to each other.

The premier and must see place for visitors is the Co Cathedral of St. John, built in the late sixteenth century in the Baroque Style. The St. John in question is the Baptist, the patron of the Knights. The exterior is plain by Baroque standards and designedly so, for all the glory is within. I was stunned! There's a concept in Art History called horror vacui or fear of empty spaces. Whoever decorated the church certainly felt this because every available surface is coated in some kind of decoration. It overwhelms the viewer yet leaves a sense of harmony and elevation. My photos do not convey the splendor of the place. An informative auto guide is included in the admission, and explains the art works and a lot of the symbolism woven into the decorations.

But that's not the only attraction--especially for me. Let's talk about Michelangelo Merisi known as Caravaggio. The poor mutt had some kind of personalty disorder. He was deeply and sincerely religious, but he simply could not stay out of trouble and committed violent acts. He came to Malta fleeing a murder charge in Rome and decided that if he became a brother in the Order of St. John he could control his impulses and live in virtue. And he did for a while. In gratitude he painted a masterpiece: The Martyrdom of St. John the Baptist.  Alas, his demons caught up with him, and he was flogged for misbehavior and expelled from the order and Malta. He died soon afterwards still on the run. But boy, could the man paint. His works have a narrative power and heart grabbing drama that is unsurpassed. His models were people from the streets, which gives his work a directness that still appeals after many centuries. His artistic influence spread across Europe.

After finishing with the Cathedral, I proceeded to the Grand Master's Palace. Now Jean de la Vallette lived simply, but as the order grew in power and wealth, subsequent Grand Masters needed a bigger venue to hold meetings and host distinguish visitors. The building was damaged by German bombs in the "Second Siege of Malta" and has. been restored. It was an interesting visit, but frankly a let down after the Cathedral. The Palace had been used by the British as their headquarters during their long colonial rule, so most of the traces of the Grand Masters were swept aside.

I emerged into the cold and wet and visited the grocery store for more supples. I got a Maltese version of Cabernet Sauvignon--fine, but a bit rough tasting. More bread. It's really good. I seldom eat bread at home, but go to town on it in Europe. I had toast with hummus for breakfast, which was nice and kept me going. I got some Italian cold cuts, since Sicily isn't far away and also some Italian tuna as well as some Maltese cheese.

Let's try the cheese. It's cows milk and very firm. I brought some water crackers from home, and they will serve as the cheese delivery system. Nice. Nothing special, but the cheese and crackers go well with the wine.

More tourist action on the morrow. Valetta is a fascinating place, so I hope you can enjoy it as much as I do.

Welcome to Valetta

Good Day to You

Here's glimpse of Valletta and its harbor. We'll we seeing a lot more of both!

I got some decent sleep and also decided to give myself an easy orientation day. I have time here, and don't need to be in a rush. 

This is my apartment. Note the stone walls and beamed ceiling. It's well equipped on a quiet street.

I arrived quite late at night so no groceries. I brought tea and some almonds and I snaffled some Imquaret from my airplane dinner. These are date fritters and helped make a decent breakfast. On the plane I also sampled some Maltese bread and goat cheese. Both very nice!

Valletta is the capital of the independent Republic of Malta, a member of the EU. English is one of the official languages, but the Maltese have their own tongue, and from what I can tell use a lot of English and Italian loan words. The currency is the Euro. Now I assumed since it was the EU and all, Malta would use Continental plugs.  Fortunately, I checked before I came. Malta was a British Colony for many years, so the plugs are the same as the UK, and they drive on the left.

The city was founded in 1566 by Jean de La Vallette, the brilliant, but ruthless Grand Master of the Knights of St. John. Located at a strategic crossroad of the Mediterranean, he conceived of Malta as a fortress against Islamic pirates, and the city's and island's heavy fortification remained and were last tested during World War II when the island and its people held off a determined German invasion. 

But this Early Modern and Modern History is nothing compared to Malta's long past of human habitation. How did people get here, and why did they even think to come looking? But Malta was settled in the Stone Age and boasts the oldest standing temples on Earth. We should visit!

Valletta is an UNESCO World Heritage Site and a noted exemplar of Baroque Architecture, which you will be hearing a Lot About in this blog. The Grand Master had his city laid out in a grid form, so it's impossible to get badly lost, but oh my--there are a lot of stairs, too.

This is the Triton Fountain near the castle. But I was there to find the Tourist Office.

I just spent time wandering around. I did make my way to the tourist office and got a map. I strolled a couple of the main drags and licked some windows. I tried to get some cash with my digital debit card. Nope. But I did find a fabulous grocery store not far from my apartment where the card worked!  

I don't think the Maltese go for Apero, but there are plenty of Italian visitors as Sicily not far away, so Apero is a thing here, and it is definitely a thing with me. Let's have a sip of Maltese white wine.  It's slightly effervescent and a bit sour, but refreshing. I got some Maltese bread--very chewy but good and some tuna spread. Since I can't get the induction stove top to work, this will do for dinner as well.

Tomorrow I promise some actual tourist action. Until then, bye.

Am I Still Welcome?

 The short answer seems to be yes, despite the recent actions of the United States, U.S. Citizens are in fact still welcome in Europe. But keep in mind that so far I have dealt only with folks in the tourist biz, except for my kind and friendly seatmate on the flight here from Zurich, we'll have to see when I'm out and about tomorrow.

I did something Really Dumb, but (spoiler alert) I think it's going to be all right thanks to the magic of technology. I knew I had to pack my credit and debit cards, but I got distracted and--well--didn't. Uh oh. Fortunately I have my bank's mobile app on the phone and was able to load my credit card into the phone's wallet, and used this to pay for my taxi into town. I also obtained a digital debit card, but I haven't figured out how to use it yet. Europeans do EVERYTHING on their phones. Me? Not so much.

I flew business class from LAX to Zurich with Swiss Air. The last time I flew Swiss I was in coach and was bitterly disappointed that the cheese that came with the meal was American cheddar. Seriously?

This time was different. I was in an older plane and the seat was smaller than I was used to--perfectly comfortable though. I was in the window and the aisle seat was occupied by a kindly man who urged me to wake him up if I needed to get out. Fortunately he moved seats, so I was not trapped.

The service and the food were first rate! It didn't hurt that the flight attendant was a very handsome young man. Here is a shot of the amenity kit and the sleeping shirt (which I took but didn't use) he passed out.

Some nuts and champagne to welcome me aboard.

Behold the starter. I had smoked duck with more champagne. I had preordered a meal. I've done it before, and it never seems to work out for me, but the nice flight attendant brought me some lovely fish instead. Yum.

And here are the remains of the Swiss breakfast I scarfed up.

We arrived in Zurich, and I thought the new entry system would be a giant pain because the media keeps warning us. Nope. They took my finger prints and my photo and examined my passport. It was like normal.

I spent most of my layover trying to figure out how to use money with my mobile bank app. It's good to learn new things, I guess. The flight to Malta was crowded and noisy, but I did have a pleasant seatmate and a good dinner with more duck! No wine. I was already jet lagged.

Stay turned for more adventure and tech solutions.

A Complicated Journey

 Buon giorno,

I made great plans, and none of them worked out. Sigh. Currently I'm waiting for gate information and boarding at Florence Airport, so I did make it this far.

My packing went well. I managed to wrestle my bags down those steep, narrow stairs. There are light switches, but the light stays on only for a minute, so not much help. I went outside in good time to await my taxi. It didn't come. And it didn't come.

I called my hostess. She answered even though it was way early in the morning, and got me a taxi. I had a thrilling ride down very narrow steep streets and under archways. Fortunately it was so early there was no traffic. We got to the train station in good time.

Then I hit another snag. The train I picked was special because it was direct and fast, and I needed to enter my personal information to obtain a ticket. If my taxi had arrived in time, I would have been able to do this. As it was, no. So I had to settle for the next train, which included a transfer, and I had to navigate more stairs to get to the platform. Fortunately I found help. And then I spoke to a young woman who was taking that train. She spoke good English and agreed to help me with my bags. This was lovely, and made my life easier. She also knew the platform for Florence.

Both of my train trips featured a group of heavily armed police. I have no idea what the deal was, but they asked to see my passport. No one was interested in my train ticket.

At length we arrived in Florence and I bought a ticket and headed for the tram. It began to rain, and I had to dig out my umbrella. The tram is slow, but the airport isn't far, but I got here much later than I expected. I checked in and there was a loooooong line to go through security. So no lounge or showers for me. I didn't even have time to get my tax refund.

Part II Paris to LAX

We got on the plane and sat on the tarmac for close to an hour due to various issues. I already had a tight transfer window in Paris, and this didn't help. But at length we took off, and they fed me--shrimp. I don't like shrimp, but I was hungry so I ate most of them, and the accompaniments were good. I drank champagne because I could.

The thing about Airport CDG it that it sprawls, and I had twenty minutes to change terminals. I had to scamper! Down escalators, up escalators, long halls, even had to take a bus. I knew the flight had started boarding, and my only hope was that it was a big plane and boarding would take a while, so I had a chance.

And I made it--just barely and my luggage did, too, by some miracle. This flight was not Air France, but Delta One, and very nice it was, with my own little cubicle and a privacy door. The Purser came around to introduce himself, warn of of turbulence over the North Atlantic (Really? I'd be shocked if we didn't have it) and to take our dinner order. They were out of the chicken, so I had the beef.

And the champagne flowed. And there was a very nice amenity kit, plus mattress pad and cosy blanket and pillow.

As an apero we were served warm nuts. Here is my starter. More shrimp. Not being as hungry I left them alone. The corn soup, salad, and roll with French butter were first rate.

You can see my reflection in the screen. I looked just awful not having washed my hair and all. I did put on the earrings I got in Florence, so I would look more like a business class flyer. I turned down desert and had port instead, which was not as good as the cheapo stuff I swilled in Porto. Then I slept.

And I slept for about five hours! Not that it did me much good. I did not feel rested. The flight was comfortable. The cabin crew were lovely and the food was good. 

Now to plan my next adventure.

Ciao for now.

A Bit of Rain for My Last Full Day in Perugia

 Buon giorno,

It's chilly and a bit rainy--giving a foretaste of what later in the year will be in Umbria. Stone walls can become bleak. I came back early because of the weather and also because I have to organize myself for an early departure tomorrow. I'm flying out of Florence. My taxi to the train station is booked, and I have done the on-line check in for Air France/Delta.  I have to leave so early because there's only one train that goes directly to Florence Santa Maria Novella Station that does not require a transfer. And readers of my blog know how these train changes don't work out. I'm trying to avoid a similar unpleasant situation.

When I get to Florence I need to take the tram to the airport. I hope I can check in early and get to the lounge. I looked it up, and they have showers there. I'd love a hot shower rather than the tepid sponge baths I've been resorting to here. I could even wash my hair. Apart from any consideration to my fellow passengers, I just feel better traveling clean. I hope it works out.

I am glad I came to Umbria, and Perugia is a wonderful base. I'm sorry I did not get to Orvieto this trip, but I'll try to see it someday. Umbria is beautiful and so far uncrowded. The countryside is enchanting, and the food and drink hearty and delicious. If you don't or can't eat pork though, maybe it's not the best destination. I'll confess that the Porchetta was one of the highlights of my trip.

Perugia involves a lot of up and down. To help out there are scale mobile (that's escalators to you non-Italians) and lifts, but you will get a good workout just walking around the historic center.

                                                    

I also want once again to mention the gracious kindness of the people of this lovely and fascinating city. Every encounter I had with the local people was warmly positive. Many went out of their way to help me out. And what is more, they seemed genuinely to enjoy helping.

So I'm hoping to run into that helpful attitude tomorrow morning. I feel very anxious about the trip. First I need to get my bags down a steep, dark, narrow staircase, and it's always worse going down than up because the weight poses a falling danger.

When I reach the train station, I'll have no problem getting the ticket, but then I'll need to go to a platform across the tracks, and that means going down stairs and up again. I have no problem being a pathetic little old lady looking for help. I just hope I find it. Getting help from kind strangers was how I made it here in the first place.

Dinner is linguine with the last of the Calabrian pesto and tuna. This is first rate and actually something I might recreate at home with American tuna rather than Italian. There's no chance of me getting real peso Genovese, but Calabrian pepper pesto is made by Barilla. I'll look for it.

Ciao for now

Gubbio: The Medieval Town

 

Buon giorno,

It's been a long day, and I'm hungry and tired, but I did enjoy my trip to Gubbio. First I had to find the bus station which is a fair step away from here, and the route I chose was not the best. For one thing it involved an endless flight of stairs down. And then google maps directed me to turn left when I should have turned right.

I knew I was way out of my way when I ended up near the minimetro stop. I asked some folks for directions, and fortunately they spoke a little English. I cannot say enough about the kindness of the people of Perugia. They seem genuinely happy to help! An older woman knew just where I needed to go. I arrived and bought my tickets and asked where to get the bus. I couldn't find the quay, so I went back and asked. The lady acted like I was an idiot because--you know what?--I was an idiot. The quay was right there behind me.

The bus soon came and we were off. One thing I learned today. While Tuscany is beautiful, Umbria is Even More Beautiful. The hills are heavily wooded with a variety of trees in their various hues of green only interrupted by vineyards and olive groves.

It's rather a long ride to Gubbio, but we arrived and I made my way to the historic center. It's a beautifully preserved Medieval town, but first my most pressing need was a toilet. I found one, and it was free, but the problem with free toilets in Italy is that they are ill maintained. There was no toilet paper. Never expect any. This is why I ALWAYS carry one of those little packs of tissue with me.

I had a lovely time just wandering around. I took an elevator up near the top of the town and walked down. It's very touristy, but not tacky and not at all crowded.

I made my way back to the bus stop, and took a photo of the unimpressive Roman Theatre on the way.

It turned out we were waiting at that wrong place, and fortunately a local corrected us. The bus shows up when it shows up, so I had to wait quite a long time, and the bus took a different route home--a a very scenic way up and down and around those Umbrian Hills. Just gorgeous.

Once in town the traffic was clogged, but we finally pulled into the station,  and I found an easier, more direct way home. Now I need to cook some linguine. I've already had my herby amaro and some almonds. My pasta will be dressed with some cacio e pepe sauce got from the store. It will be yummy!

Ciao for now

Palazzo Baldeschi al Corso and Some Shopping

 

Buon giorno,

As I had a Project Day yesterday and am planning another for tomorrow, I thought I'd give myself a comparatively easy day today. And also today was the morning of the planned blackout. I was hoping that the workers gave a generous estimate, and so it proved. The power went off later and came on earlier than they announced.  I'd taken care of all my personal needs before the power went off, as I must use the electric kettle to get warm water.

The Palazzo is fairly nearby, but it has very odd hours, so I saved it for today when it would open in the morning. Bur before it opened I got some cash and strolled around marking shops I intended to visit. and watching the merry-go-round in the Piazza.

I am happy to report that with the exception of a mother and young child, all the riders were middle aged or elderly adults having fun. It's the sort of thing I would do, too.

                                         

Then I walked down that intriguing passage pictured above.

At length the Palazzo opened and I entered. I got a handsome discount for being old and proceeded. on my visit. The young ladies in charge were very eager to help me. I think I was their only visitor at that time--because the joint is not open that much, and visitors need to plan.

Most of the Palazzo has been gutted, but on the first floor some lovely ceiling frescos survived.

The young ladies highly touted the "Special Exhibition" of contemporary artists in dialogue with the Middle Ages. I was unimpressed.

The other floors were more interesting to me. There was a reasonable collection of Renaissance and Baroque works. I enjoyed the landscapes and portraits most of all, and the same was true in the Eighteenth and Nineteenth Century works.

I saw a very impressive and beautiful collection of Umbrian Majolica. The colors just glowed!  I don't feel right about taking photos of these exhibits because I'm concerned about copyright.

I also came across the personal out put of an eccentric artist, who managed to convince he he was gay. Sure he had plenty of female nudes, but they didn't have the--uh--resonance of his male nudes.

This was a pleasant way to spend the morning, but I also had some shopping to do. I attended a chocolate shop a little further down the street that I found more elegant and less touristy than the ones nearer the Cathedral.

I also returned to the tiny shop selling Umbrian goodies.Let me take a sip of one of my purchases. It's an Umbrian liquer called Amaro d'Erbe. Smells sort of herby, but also like booze. It tastes very nice--not bitter at all, which is what amaro means. But I can tell from one sip that it is strong! I need to go slowly with this, and I have some left for tomorrow.

I slept pretty well, but I had an interesting nightmare. I dreamt I was at the train station about to board when I realized I hadn't packed. I had my luggage, but I'd left my belongings behind.  This won't happen in real life.

Ciao for now