San Zeno: A Romanesque Marvel

 

Buon giorno,

The basilica of San Zeno is a good ways away from the heart of the historic center, and I found it completely worth the trip.  For example I passed the Castelvecchio and had to keep going for quite a while winding through some smaller streets. Because I'd got the combined ticket at the Duomo, I was able to get in without paying anything extra and received an informative audioguide.

But first some history--you knew it was coming. Zeno apparently was a North African who lived in the Fourth Century. We don't know how he ended up in Verona, but it seems he took monastic vows there.  Eventually he was elected bishop of the city and was instrumental in converting Arians back to orthodox Catholicism. He is the patron saint of the City of Verona, and the people built a fitting tribute to his service and virtues.

I don't understand why the churches in Verona are not more famous. They are wonderful and feature not just the red veronese mable, but a lot of very well preserved frescos as well.  San Zeno is no exception. Yes, it's a pretty long walk out, but if you have any interest in Medieval Architecture or Art, it is worth the trip.

Here's the Romanesque nave. Note the round arches, heavy looking supporting pillars, and the interesting wood ceiling.

I confess, I love the Romanesque, and most of the Medieval churches mix styles. In San Zeno the only Gothic "contamination" is a rose window added in the Fourteenth Century. The rest is pure, and the design of the church is harmonious and substantial. The decoration, of course, comes from many periods, and there's a notable Renaissance altarpiece by Mantegna.

                                    The apse and the high altar with the famous altarpiece.

In other news, bad weather has hit Il Giro d'Italia. The Tour of Italy is a major bike race and the riders are in the mountains being soaked, and the roads are slippery and visibility is limited. Rider safety needs to take priority! The race has already seen some devastating crashes.

Pil, you and those bike races. You have no idea how obnoxious this is.

I'm well aware--I just don't care.

Also that market I loved on Piazza Bra. It was a special and temporary exhibition featuring regional products, which explains everything, but now I'm kicking myself for not taking more advantage of it.

Ciao for now

Up and Down Again

 Buon giorno,

I don't know which weather forecast to believe. They contradict each other. Rain was in the forecast for today, but it turned out sunny and warm, which was fine with me since I was out and about.

Occupying a commanding position on a hill across the Adige is Castel San Pietro.  It looks really cool, but unfortunately it is not open to tourists. Nevertheless, a stroll through town leaving the historic center for a more real neighborhood, will take the visitor, i.e. me, to the Porta Pietra. You can enjoy the view above.

It is possible to climb to the Castel, and many younger and fitter people do that. I took the funicular and got a discount for being old. I get a huge kick out of riding funiculars, but this one was pretty short. At the top is a cafe and viewpoint. I was also grateful to find a free toilet, since I was determined to walk down.

I expected scenic paths. What I got was a zillion stairs. This reminded me of my adventure in Naples some years ago. My knees have never forgiven me. But this was all right. I took it slowly and eventually arrived at street level.

My next target was the Roman Theatre.

But Pil, you saw this already.

No. I visited the amphitheatre, which is enclosed. A Greek--or in this case Roman--theatre is open on one side. Confusion about this is common, but I taught Art History, so I have no excuse. I stopped on the street to consult my map, and a very kind older woman decided to help me. I actually understood what she said to me in Italian, but she quickly switched to English. It's these little acts of kindness that make traveling so fulfilling.

Once at the theatre, which was just down the street,  I got a discount for being old once again, but this sight was difficult for me and not that interesting. I made my way back stopping at some gourmet food stores to snoot around.

I hoped to get some foccacia at the market, but when I arrived at Piazza Bra, no market was to be found!  I can try again some other day. It would probably help if I googled which days it operated.

Because I enjoy limoncello, and I can get the exact same brand I had in Sicily at my local Trader Joe's, I decided I needed to try the Northern Italian version from Lago de Garda. It's called Limoncino. Let's have a sip. Hmmm. It's good. There is a distinct different from limoncello, but I can't put my finger on it. I think my fellow citizens would like this if it were available in the USA. I'd never heard of it though.

Ciao for now.

Ecclesiastical Splendor

 

Buon giorno,

To be frank, I am OLD, and I have been touristing pretty hard the last few days. I'm tired, so I gave myself a slightly easier, but satisfying day visiting a couple of old churches because it's Monday and all the other museums are closed.

Old churches sounds dull, Pil.

I'm afraid I did not advertise the targets correctly. Magnificent. Marvelous. Jaw Dropping Wonders is more like it. And I'll confess that I did not realize Verona held such treasures, but once I thought about it, it made sense. The city has been important and wealthy for a long time. So my advice is to ignore those crazy kids Romeo and Juliet and focus on some real history and art.

Rain is once again in the forecast. When I was out it was dry and just a little cool. I went to the grocery store and found that my room was being done when I returned. I actually appreciate this.  I get out early, and I get back early. Did I mention I'm old?  

Anyway I set out for the Duomo and promptly got lost. Il Duomo is the Cathedral of the City, i.e. the seat of the bishop, and this one is dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin. This means she was taken from the tomb and arose into heaven. I do not panic at being lost having experienced this more times than I can count. I knew the general direction. I had a map. I kept going, and arrived.

You can see the facade of the cathedral and its Romanesque and Gothic elements.

The churches charge admission, and this time I see the sense of it. The money goes for the maintenance of the building, and the visitor gets an audio guide. I got a discount for being old.  If you ask me Il Duomo is a MUST SEE in Verona. I was overwhelmed by its splendor, and I have seen a LOT of incredible churches. What we have here is a Romanesque foundation with some Gothic elements and a lot of Renaissance and Baroque decoration. Verona's true art treasures are in her churches. I saw wonderful frescos and moving paintings and sculptures. The decoration is not quite horror vacui, but it comes close. 

Then I strolled down to Santa Anastasia. Its nave is the largest in Verona, and the church is remarkably uniform and harmonious in design. It makes great use of red Verona marble for example in the pavement and columns. It is also packed with art treasures. Hello, Titian! A very informative audio guide is provided.

I ended up feeling overwhelmed and yet satisfied. I made my way slowly home though the throngs of school groups and guided tours.

Ciao for now

Un Giardino Molto Bello

 

Buon giorno,

Rain was in the forecast for the afternoon, but it arrived early. No worries.  I always carry an umbrella, and it's warm.  It was also dry when I set out for Il Giardino Giusti. I left the historic center for a more real people neighborhood and crossed the Adige. I easily found my target and obtained a ticket.  

The garden is the main attraction, but there are also period rooms--my favorite!  The Giusti Family were wool merchants from Tuscany and originally used the land for textile production.  In the Sixteenth Century Agostino Guisti, having achieved a noble status, required a palazzo to reflect it. The family and its subsequent members were people of taste as well as wealth, and I think the palazzo and garden are my favorite sight in Verona so far. I'll let the photos tell the tale.

                                            

It was even more gorgeous in person.

Apero consists of meaty green olives--described as dolce, which I guess means not too salty? and the usual almonds and Prosecco. For anyone interested good Prosecco is easily obtained in the United States. Look for a DOP designation. It should not be expensive. If you come across a pricey Prosecco, leave it on the shelf and keep looking.  I also obtained some prosciutto de San Daniele. OK not from the Veneto, but the ultimate in Parma style ham. You can find this in the United States, but it's expensive.

Dinner is ravioli with ricotta and herbs, dressed with garlic and doused with olive oil. It's good, especially when accompanied with Prosecco.

Ciao for now

A Castle, A Palazzo and the Art Within

                                                    

 Buon giorno,

My first order of business was a trip to the grocery store, but when I got back, Anna was already doing my room, so I dropped off the food, so my Prosecco could get nicely chilled and set out for Il Castelvecchio.

The castle sits on the bank of the Adige River and has been repurposed as a museum for Medieval and Early Renaissance Art. The polychrome statues are particularly fine, but they have also managed to transfer some frescos, which I enjoyed seeing. The museum is spacious and the exhibits are well presented. It was worth the walk out.

I also felt compelled to cross the river via the Old Castle Bridge before walking back to the historic center. You can see the view of the river above. It is a hot day, and I was already tired, so I decided to treat myself to gelato. Sugar and I don't get along well, but it's rude to come to Italy and not have gelato.  I had limone, nocchiola (hazelnut) and amarena (vanilla with cherries). All the favors were refreshing and I appreciated the coldness. It's my belief that hazelnut gelato is one of the most celestial things on Earth. For both museums I visited I got a discount for being old, which paid for my treat.

But I was not done. I made my way to the Piazza Erbe and the Palazzo Maffei. You've seen it. It's the ornate, white building at the far end of Piazza Erbe. This one is also worth a visit. It bills itself as a Modern Art Museum, and the collection is distinguished with a long list of the best known artists of the Early Twentieth Century, but there's also some Early Modern Art and period furniture. One thing they did--and did well--was set up some theme rooms with a mix of Art periods. This can be cringy, but here it worked.

                                            

By this time I was tired and footsore, so I made my way home--through the crowds of shoppers and numerous tour groups. The latter irritate me because a big clump of folks stop in the middle of the street to listen to the lecture, and it's hard to get by.

I think I have earned my apero of lovely chilled Prosecco, some black olives and almonds. Let's have a sip. I have air conditioning, but the bubbles are still refreshing. By the way Verona is the home of the Aperol Spritz. Aperol is made nearby, and I don't care for it. However, the Spritz is madly popular all over Europe.

Dinner was pasta with some tuna and that lovely DOP pesto genovese I got at the market a few days ago. And the Prosecco was perfect with it.

Ciao for now

Some History: Real and Fake

 

Buon giorno,

One thing I really like about the place I'm staying besides the quiet is that they give me water, which is a blessing when I come home tired and thirsty.

Apart from the sights, Verona's historic center is a fun place to stroll. Now I am definitely not in a real people neighborhood. The streets are either pedestrianized or have limited traffic and are lined with every high end luxury brand you can think of.  Very bougie, but the buildings are lovely.

I exercised my Verona Card. I made a reservation, which is mandatory, to visit La Casa di Guilietta. Verona milks Romeo and Juliet for all it's worth because the association between the play and the city has been attracting visitors for centuries. What people forget is: Shakespeare made it up. Oh sure he probably based his play on a story going around, but that story was Also Fiction. Romeo never existed. Nor did poor Guilietta, but her house and tomb are proudly displayed for credulous tourists.

Yeah, Pil, but you went to see it anyway.

Here is the courtyard with the famous balcony where R and J confessed their love.

The association with Juliet is fake, but the house is authentic enough. It's a rich merchant's dwelling from the Sixteenth Century, and Renaissance furniture and ceramics are on offer as are some frescos.  I almost did not get in. I made the reservation for 10:00, but it didn't go through. Fortunately the very kind young woman at the entrance used my phone to re reserve for me. It took her a good ten minutes, and is an example of how gracious Italians can be to visitors.  The museum is billed as a must see. Not really.

                                            

A period room

Casa di Guilietta is just off Piazza Erbe, so I took the opportunity to stroll around. If mass produced souvenirs are your jam, this is the place for you. You can also find snacks.

                                                

But now let us turn to some Real History. I went to the Verona Amphitheatre. The Verona Card did not save me money, but it did save me from standing in a long line. I used the special entrance. The arena is a remarkable structure. The interior is completely remodeled to accommodate contemporary performances, and a lot of it is closed to visitors, but I think it was worth seeing. 

                                                

And then since I was at the Piazza Bra, I strolled around the market once more, but this time I didn't buy anything. Also I walked more than 10K steps today.

My next task is to get help with the induction stovetop, so I can have some pasta for dinner. And I just finished a very satisfying meal. One of my favorite ways to dress pasta is with salt, pepper, garlic and oil--simple but sooooo gooood. The Prosecco was perfect with it.

Ciao for now.

Is Verona the Most Italian Place?

 

Buon giorno,

That's the claim anyway made loudly and proudly. Uh. It's true that Italy has become more homogenized because of mass transportation and media--not to mention internal migration, but come on.  I'm not entirely sure there is "Italian." From what I've seen each region retains its distinct character.

But Verona is undoubtedly beautiful and looks to be a lot of fun. You cannot fault my ability to pick destinations.

The plan was to do something historical, but I got distracted. I made my way to Piazza Erbe, the heart of Verona. I was after an atm, which I did attend eventually, but, see, there was a market, and I had to go investigate.  This one is very touristy but fun anyway.

I thought I had a shot of the market, but it didn't come out. The figure on top of the pillar is the Lion of St. Mark. We're in the Veneto, and the lion is the symbol of Venetian authority.

I'd bought something called the Verona Card, which will get me free admission to some popular sites. I had to go to the tourist office to pick it up. One of Verona's claim to fame is its remarkably well preserved Roman amphitheatre, which is often used for plays, concerts, and (of course) opera. I will visit. The tourist office is on the Piazza Bra . . . and there is a market . . . for. us tourists. It would have been rude not to have a look around. I also bought a few things.

Like what, Pil?

It was a bit odd. I was hard pressed to find something from the Veneto itself. I did get a small bottle of local olive oil, but most booths offered items from Piedmont, Pulgia, and Sicily. On offer was a lot of cheese, sausages, cannoli, snacks, honey. You name it. You could probably find it. I bought a few black olives that I am having for apero. Tasty but molto salty.  

I came across a both offering products from Liguria. I retain a passionate fondness for the food there. When I need to cure a farinata or foccacia craving I know where to go. What I bought was a jar of pesto genovese. Once one has had the real thing, all others pale in comparison.

My room was done, so I can spend a relaxing afternoon.

I dropped off my take and went to the grocery store. It's the Veneto. Imma drink Prosecco, and it's cheap here. The closest thing I could find to local cheese was some DOP Provolone Val da Padana. I also got some mortadella because I'm in Italy and like to indulge.

Let's have a sip of the chilled Prosecco. Ooh. That's very nice. It's turned quite warm so the bubbles are refreshing. Now for a bite of cheese. It's very mild, and it takes a while for the complexity to develop. I'm thinking it would be even better melted.

Ciao for now