A Pleasant Last Day in Catania

 

Buon giorno,

There was rain and thunderstorms over night, and today was very muggy, so I decided to treat myself to gelato on my last day here. I got Amarena, which is vanilla and cherry, and very refreshing it was.

I began my day with a computer check in for my flight. I am leaving very early tomorrow morning. I have my taxi booked. All airlines do online check in now, so I'm used to it but it was very frustrating as I scanned my passport for them over and over, and they said it was done successfully, but then they wanted me to do the procedure over. Sigh. Well, I finally did take care of it even though Lufthansa decided my phone number was Canadian (I corrected that) and my country of residence was the UK. Nope.  I've ordered my dinner for the Munich-LAX leg, and they'll feed me breakfast Catania to Munich.

I went out for a last turn around the city.  I've been living the life of a tourist in the historic center, so it's not been normal life in Catania even though I've gone to the grocery store and cooked my own pasta. So I made my way down the hill to the cathedral square. Above you can see the Pillar of the Elephant. Said elephant is made of lava and is the symbol of the city. Catanians are nearly as proud of it as St. Agatha.

Then I strolled around and came upon another small market in a side street.

 But then it was time to resume shopping ,so I took myself down Via Etnea.  My target was the pan Italian department store Rinascente. They have a posh food section in the basement, but I stopped to squirt myself with some expensive perfume before using the escalator.  I got what I needed, and I got a discount because years ago in Torino I acquired their loyalty card. The friendly woman who helped me asked where I was from. I got the usual enthusiastic reaction, "Wow!" It was her dream to go to Los Angeles. She also mentioned New York City--well, OK.That, too.

I felt obliged to try out the Sicilian liqueurs on offer. I got some made with cinnamon--a small bottle. Let's have a sip. Hmm. That's pretty nice.  The cinnamon is there, but not overpowering. It does have a bit of the strong booze burn though.

I've had a lovely visit to Catania, and most of all I appreciate the gracious welcome I have received from its inhabitants.

Ciao for Now

A Shopping Loop

 

Buon giorno,

My time in Catania grows short, but I still have some errands to complete. I was eager to go out again, and the morning was nice and cool--although it grew muggy later, and rain is in the forecast. The picture is of the hill I go up and down, but the photography has flattened it.

I decided to revisit Parco Bellini as I had only seen one small part of it. It seems to be a popular place even on a weekday morning. I saw a large class going on, but I could not figure out. what they were doing. I was there for the lush greenery.

Then I thought it would be fun and interesting to explore Il Mercato di Piazza Carlo Alberto some more. The thing is huge!  I barely scratched the surface previously.  I did see a lot more of the place, but certainly not all because the noise and crowds began to bother me.

I was on a mission. One of the pleasures of travel is bringing home little treats for my friends. It's a way of sharing the experience. I had been scouting around and believed that I'd have good luck on a little street market just off Via Etnea. This was a calmer more elegant venue than Carlo Alberto.

One stand was selling items hand carved out of lava. This is something I could not possibly resist. I had to choose carefully because some of the objects were--uh--obscene, but there were plenty that weren't.  The proprietor carefully wrapped the things up, so I can't show you a photo.

I moved on to a stand selling IOP Chocoate. "Senza latte," the proprietor told me proudly. No milk here. My friends like European chocolate, so I quickly picked out some I thought they would enjoy. I was even offered a sample, which was aromatic and very tasty.  The people running the stand were a mother and son, and they were so friendly and charming, we had a conversation with me using as much Italian as I could. Fortunately the son was fluent in English, but they praised my Italian. Ha ha. It's the effort that counts not the results.  And, of course, they were thrilled to learn I was from Los Angeles.  I was able to add my sincere appreciation of Catania.

I wanted to make another stop, but when I got to the destination the place was closed.  I'll try again tomorrow.

A few days ago I obtained a substance called "Fuoco dell'Etna."  I hesitated because I thought "fire" might mean hot and spicy, but a conversation with the proprietor revealed it was a strawberry liqueur. It's pretty strong, but definitely strawberry--or fragola as we Italians say.

Dinner is tortellone doused in olive oil (I love extra virgin olive oil) and sprinkled with parmesan. Delicioso.

Ciao for Now

I Gambled and Lost

 Buon giorno,

I was concerned, rightly as it turned out, about the Pasta alla Norma. It wasn't the tomato sauce. I can tolerate sauces. I guessing that it was the combination of eggplant and very al dente pasta. I am not used to tough chewy pasta, and neither is my elderly digestion. So I woke up with cramps. I'm feeling better now, but I thought I had better say in. You can see my living room above.  I'm sitting on a sofa, you can't see. You'll have a glimpse of my kitchenette, and the door to the hallway leading to my bedroom.

My apartment is at the top of the house, and I have sky lights in the ceiling. I don't open them, but they allow me to enjoy the sound of falling rain, something I find very soothing.

I like Catania. When I was reading about the place in preparation for my visit, I thought the streets and sidewalks made of lava blocks would make the place dreary. This is not the case. The gray surfaces are unusual, but now I'm used to them, and I can appreciate the ingenuity of using this abundant resource.

A lot of the historic center is beautiful if a bit run down. It's easy to get around. A large part of my fitness program is coming to Europe and walking. Catania offers many possibilities, especially going up and down hill.

Ad the people are very gracious to visitors. It's hard for me to describe their surprised delight when I manage to croak out a phrase or two in Italian. I speak slowly and clearly, but I feel sure my accent is execrable. But they are thinking, "Ecco, la Americana. Ci prova parlare in Italiano. Brava!" Behold the American lady. She tries to speak Italian. Good!

And then there's how thrilled they are when I mention Los Angles. I have to shake my head over that one.

My appetite is returning. Later on I'll have some nice linguine with a lot of olive oil and a modest sprinkle of parmesan. That should be bland enough.

Ciao for now.

Pasta alla Norma

 

Buon giorno,

I figured it would be rude to come to Catania, home to Bellini and his famous Opera Norma and not have the iconic pasta dish that honored the work. This took some doing. Many resteruants and cafes offer the dish, but I keep early hours, and I like to come home, take off my contact lenses and my shoes and socks and relax into dinner.

I ordered my pasta al dente, and it is really very chewy. To wash it down I have some DOP Sicilian red. A very nice combination, I must say. There are small pieces of eggplant in a sweetish tomato sauce with plenty of parmesan. I hope it does not screw up my digestion.

I found a place near the Duomo that does take away, and I determined to attend it. But first I had to find the joint, which should have been easy, but wasn't for me. At last I spotted it and went in. One orders by machine, which I figured out. I was paying in coin--also by machine, but I put my coins in the wrong way. Uh oh. Fortunately I know how to say I'm sorry in Italian: Mi dispiace. I must say the young man was very gracious about it, and we both thought it was funny.  He finally dug out all the misplaced coins, and I was launched. Each dish is cooked to order, but it does not take long. I do have to comment that both the cook and the manager were Very Handsome Young Men. An enhancement of the experience.

But then I had to drag my carcass and food up the hill. I have actually covered a lot of ground today.

I began with a trip to the grocery store. Then I went out to stroll. Near the Fish Market, I came upon the Sunday flea market, which is quite extensive.I had a good time walking around looking at the goods on offer. Some of it is junk, but most of the stands offered quality goods, and a few catered to collectors. I saw a lot of fun things, but nothing I really wanted or could pack, so my cash stayed in my purse. But if you are in need of jewelry, or pretty old china, this is the place for you.

So the bottom line, what with one thing and another, I walked over 13,000 steps today. I think I earned the Pasta alla Norma.

Ciao for now.

Rainy Saturday in Catania

Buon giorno,

I gave myself a fairly easy day today, but I did get out and walk and snoot around. I don't walk as many steps as I did in Amsterdam, but I'm going up and down hill constantly, so I think it works out. It was cool and overcast when I set out (unlike conditions at home!) and after a while gentle rain began to fall. As an experienced traveler I ALWAYS carry an umbrella. Just in cast. And often it is the case.

One feature of most Italian cities is cats. I saw one sheltering in a doorway, and it kindly consented for me to scratch its furry head.

Anywhere you go in Catania, you can find a juice stand. The proprietor cuts and squishes the fruit before your very eyes. I imagine this is incredibly fresh and refreshing, but juice does not agree with me, so I'll never know. They seem popular though.

I strolled through the market near the fish market. No fish but plenty of meat and cheeses and well as fruit and veg on offer.

After strolling around and licking many a window, I fetched up at at a food shop on Via Giuseppe Garabaldi where I had been before. It's a beauitful shop with many enticing goodies, and I was enticed. I was intrtiged by something called "Fuoco della Etna," which I feared would be hot and spicey, but which we determined to be a very strong strawberry liqueur. I got a small bottle to try tomorrow and another small bottle of cinnamon liqueur plus some pistasccio cookies. The proprietor seemed so nice that I ventured to speak Italian to him, and I understood what he said to me! He asked me where I was from ,and I got the usual reaction to Los Angeles--"Spettaculo!" Fabulous!  It really makes me wonder what sort of glamor my city projects abroad. I mean I live a long way from Hollywood, which is actually kinda sleazy these days.

I returned home to dig into those lovely olives I got from the market. And I sipped limoncello and ate some tuna. Dinner is linguine with walnut sauce. MMM. Walnut pesto pasta is very tasty indeed and probably healthful to boot. I'm going to learn to make this at home.

Ciao for now

Monasterio San Benedetto

 Buon giorno,

I asked for my room to be done today, so I vacacted a bit early to give housekeeping a chance to do their job. I do like wandering around Catania. There are a lot of handsome buildings, albeit a bit run down, and some fun windows to lick.

I went down to the piazzas near Santa Agata because I'd spotted a reliable ATM there. I got some cash. Bleah. The exchange rate is hideous, but it 's also good to have plenty of cash on hand.

My target for today is Il Monasterio de San Benedetto. I don't know why they use the word monastery. It's a convent with enclosed nuns of the Benedictine order. I would not have known about the place except our tour guide on the walking tour I took my first full day here stopped and described it.  The novices enter, and if they become nuns, they never leave. The exception is that they may stand by the side of the road to watch the pagent of Santa Agata. Nevertheless, our guide, who has met and spoke to the nuns, described them as very happy. According to the website, they arise early, attend mass, and their days are divided between worship and work.

The site is open just two or three days a week, and I did not see a single nun. They, no doubt were busy at their work and were not interesting in seeing me.

One loads an audio guide on one's phone. I had to keep reloading it because I wanted to take photos. The convent is built on the site of a Roman townhouse.

Then one climbs the stairs to a meeting room.

The main event is the chapel. Remember how austere Santa Agata looked?  Here we have the opposite. The art historical concept horror vacui comes to mind. The place is beautiful, and I found the decorations very compelling.

                                                    

After that I made my way down Via Etnea and did some shopping, but then I had to drag myself and my purchases up a long hill to home. Fortunately my room was done, and I could relax shoveling olvies and almonds down my throat while having a sip or two of limoncello and green tea.

I enjoyed the pasta and pesto so much yesterday, I'm going to have it again.

Ciao for Now

Palazzo Biscari

 

Buon giorno,

I could sit here all afternoon sipping aperitifs and eating those lush black olives I got from the market. But no. Duty calls, and I'll blog instead.

I began my day with a trip to the grocery store. One thing I got was a selection of sauces for my pasta. Now no self-respecting Italian would buy premade sauce like this--maybe in a pinch a jar of tomato sauce they could dress up--but I am not a self respecting Italian, and I like to try a variety of things. This is a good way.

Today's target was Palazzo Biscari. Now Catania used to be simply sick with one aristocratic palazzo after another in the historic center. Most of them have converted to hotels, apartments, or office buildings. They are labeled and you can see them as you walk by, but you can't visit. So I was glad to be able to attend Palazzo Biscari.

The original palace of the Princes of Biscari was destroyed in the Great Earthquake, so the current structure was built in the fashionable Baroque style. The Biscari Family still owns the joint, and it is also classified as an UNESCO World Heritage site. If you own a palazzo or something like it, the only way to keep it up is to open it to the public and charge admission and rent it out for events. Not all the palace can be visited, and I suspect the family when they're in town stays in the private rooms.

Worth a visit, eh, Pil?

I would say so, especially as such sites are so rare in Catania. It's not too far from the Duomo, and it does not cost a lot to get in, but once you are in there's not much guidance for an English speaker. Because I taught Art History, I can understand a lot of the iconography in the decorations. There's some nice furniture, and I enjoyed the state rooms, and the more intimate "real people" rooms. But I'll let the pictures do the talking.

Have a look at the beautiful tiled floor on this next one.

Finally, a look at a Catania skyline from the palazzo's balcony.

Today's dinner is linguine with pesto and a sprinkling of parmigiano regiano. Yumsy Maxxing.

Ciao for now