Monday, July 22, 2013

Leaving Munich--Sadly


Gruss Gott!
This was my last full day in Munich, and tomorrow I enclose myself in a steel tube and jet back home.  As much as I love my job, my wonderful colleagues, and my marvelous friends--well, I feel reluctant to leave.  I have had a splendid trip full of beauty and history.  Good food and drink, too. The only thing that would make it perfection is having some of you here with me.
But it's not Real Life is it.  I don't really live or work here.  So here I am in my "apartment" sipping at my Austrian wine and nibbling Spanish almonds.  It is in fact a genuine European experience.
I spent some of the day shopping.  I like squirting myself with expensive perfume I can't afford to buy or rather I can't afford it if I want to continue to travel.  I wandered the streets of the historic center of Munich turning down ways I had not explored before.  I recalled my first full day here and my explorations, smiling at the memories and feeling happy and relaxed.  I have been here three weeks and have gotten to know the place--at least a bit.
Here are a few things I have noticed.  People are always eating.  Food is everywhere.  What is it that you want?  One ubiquitous snack I have not tried is Giant Pretzl.  Or sandwiches, or ice cream.  Or anything really.  People eat constantly and not just tourists.  You will have no opportunity to starve anywhere in Bavaria.
Bikes.  Munich is flattish, and while it is not as cycling mad as Amsterdam or Copenhagen, lots and lots of people, and not all of them are young, get around by bicycle.  The city makes a point of providing bike paths, not just on major streets, but pretty much everywhere.
After my shopping chores, I had some trips left on my strip of tickets, so I dumped my stuff off at my room and trammed off once more to Schloss Nymphenburg for some rapturous wanderings in the park. I always want--NEED--to spend time in leafy greenness, with freely flowing clear water, and the hum of insects and birds chirping.  These are things I will not find at home where cars are king.
Dear Readers, if you are in a place where the automobile does not yet rule your life, RESIST.  I speak from experience.
But let's have some Q and A.  As usual I will provide both.
What happened to the Wittelsbachs you keep going on and on about?
When Germany became a republic in 1918 after World War I, they retired into private life, but they are still around.  The family maintains private apartments in Schloss Nymphenburg, and at least one other residence is not open to the public at all, although I must say they are most generous with the parkland.
Beer?  And have you been to a beer garden?
The beer is excellent.  Munich is not as "drinky" as Copenhagen, but beer is the drink of choice for many, and some start early.  The beer is not as strong as some of the brews in Belgium, and I have never seen a drunk.  Bavarians, and I guess Germans generally, regard beer as a food.  I have walked through many beer gardens, but I prefer to drink as long as I am by myself, in my room with my contact lenses out and my feet up.
So no really no Oktober Fest for real?
For one thing my job precludes it.  For another that theory of mine about the calendars?  Nope.  The "fest" began in the very early nineteenth century to celebrate a Wittelsbach wedding--the bride was a Theresa, so the site of the part is called Theresa's Meadows--and was so popular it became an annual event. But the calendar had changed long before, so the next best theory is weather.  Still don't know why they had to call it Oktober Fest though.
How much saturated fat have you eaten this trip?
Lots.  Other than that I have no idea.  The sausage is truly wonderful.  Sauerkraut is good and so are potatoes.  The markets are full of the most beautiful-looking vegetables and fruits.
I don't speak German.  How can I manage?
Look, once I have said "Guten Tag, Ich spreche wenig Deutsch" I have pretty much shot my bolt. Many Germans, especially in tourist areas have a bit of English.  All are kindly and patient.  Please don't be afraid!
I'm a vegetarian/vegan.
Uh oh.  You can survive as a vegetarian--barely.  Europeans largely do not grasp or respect being a vegan.  Sorry.  Many of my fellow guests at Citadines are Muslims, and I guess they keep Halal, i.e. no pork, in a very porkish country.  Getting your own place and shopping and cooking are your best alternatives.  Or stay home--especially if you are vocally hostile to other people's habits.
What else have you enjoyed?
On train, or S Bahn, or bus trips, I gaze out the windows raptly at the green and gold countryside. Many farms proclaim the fertility of the region.  I recall the alternate fields of hops and vines in Franconia for instance.  I love the numerous patches of forest land.  Some is coppiced and obviously for timber crops.  Some is old growth forest.
What do you like most about Munich and Bavaria?
Great question and very hard to answer.  I always love the sense of deep historical roots anchoring a culture.  And part of the culture of this region is a strong sense that life is to Be Enjoyed.  I don't mean folks are frivolous or lazy, but they do live life in balance and realize that pleasure is one thing that gives meaning to life.
I have noticed significant traffic on this blog day-to-day.  Thank you for dropping by, and I hope most of you have stayed to read my posts even if you have not commented.  I hope that those of you who are interested will drop by again for my next trip. Munich has been a wonderful journey.
Vielen Danke and auf wiedersehen!

2 comments:

  1. Excellent wrap-up. That is exactly the way I felt about Austria and southern Germany, and I want to go back! but until then, I look forward to your photos.

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  2. This is a beautiful and fascinating part of the world isn't it--also very comfortable as well!. I don't wonder that any one who comes here wishes--immediately--to return.

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