Friday, July 19, 2013
Nurn/Nuremberg
Gruss Gott!
Today I took a day trip to Nuremburg--and if you say it fast and often enough you will understand why the German name is Nurnberg--umlaut over the u both ways. It is very easy to get from Munich to Nurnberg because it's about an hours straight shot on the train. It is however a Very EXPENSIVE ride because those trains are ICE or Intercity Express. You can get to Nurnberg more cheaply on a tour.
So why didn't you do that, Pil?
Well, several reasons. I don't like being part of a herd, and I figured I done my share, and also on the tour they take you to Nazi sites I don't care about and don't take you to places I do. So I shelled out, and I must say I spent a very pleasurable day in a wonderful city that I hope to return to sometime.
Nurnberg is very easy. One emerges from the Hauptbahnhof--take the underground passage--it took me a few minutes to figure this out--and parade down Konigstrasse. The street will take you into the heart of this handsome and historical city, past the market, and up hill to the castle.
That uphill is steep. Be warned. The castle is well worth visiting, and you can enter the grounds and prowl around for free. I got a ticket for the exhibition. Nurnberg is the second largest city in Bavaria, although they will tell you it's Franconia or Franken and was a major center during the hey day of the Holy Roman Empire. The castle is called the Kaiserburg or Emperor's castle, as he often visited here to hold imperial councils.
My next target was Albrecht Durer's house. Now I enjoyed seeing where one of my favorite painters lived and worked, but if you are not familiar with Durer, I'd say skip it and go have some Silvaner or the local beer. It's a beautifully preserved sixteenth century house with some nice period rooms, but the visitor will leave none the wiser about Durer's significance to Art History. The audio guide comes with admission and is "narrated" by Durer's wife, Agnes, who complains of her bad reputation but has nothing to say about Durer's innovative artistic techniques, or his awesome skills as an engraver. Agnes does allow that Albrecht was successful and an international celebrity during his life time. She won't tell you why.
There are some copies of his works on display, but if you have seen the originals . . . Ok. I can't resist. Durer brought the artistic ideals of the Italian Renaissance north of the Alps but used the techniques to express the culture and sensibilities of the Germans. He also observed the natural world very keenly and supported the Protestant Movement. Except for that last, his well-rounded and humanistic approach to life and learning earned him the title Leonardo of the North.
Then I made my way though the town, snooting around at the market and admiring the city and its churches--more Roman Catholic now. Sorry Albrecht. But it was growing hot and humid as it tends to do, so I bought some water and sought the train home. On the way back, we passed a deer farm. There was a herd of tiny and tawny deer resting in the shade of a tree, and very silly looking they were.
The beer of the day is--wine! I am having some Franconian Silvaner with my very German meal. Silvaner is white and very fresh tasting. I got the normal dry, and I would say it's not as dry as most white wines. It actually tastes rather flowery in a very pleasant, refreshing way.
And this German meal of yours, Pil?
Sausage and sauerkraut. Can get much more German than that. The sausages are Nurnberger Wurst, and they are quite small--about the diameter and length of my forefinger. The sauerkraut is--well--sour cured cabbage, but it does not interfere with the wine. Let's have a bite of sausage. Mmm. Sehr gut. Lecker. The spicing is somewhat different from any I have had before, but these were worth bringing home. It's good with both sweet and yellow mustard. Do not pretend that I stint on my research on your behalf!
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Oh, that's disappointing about the Durer house. I hate it when a place caters to the lowest common denominator.
ReplyDeleteThe rest sounds marvelous, though.
It's a marvelous city. I hope I return someday.
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