Sunday, July 14, 2013

Adventuring to Augsburg


Gruss Gott!
Ok.  Not much adventure--just a nice, smooth, pleasant day trip to Bavaria's third largest city and one of the oldest cities in Germany.  Although truth to tell, I am not at all sure how Bavarian Augsburg feels.  The city only joined the kingdom in 1806.  Before that it was a free Imperial city-state, and before that it was a Roman foundation.  It's name comes from Augusta Vindelicorum, named in honor of Augustus by his step children.  Ruled by a Prince-Archbishop through much of the Early Middle Ages, Augsburg became a truly independent city in the thirteenth century.
Then look out!  The city enjoyed a strategic position between Italy and Northern Europe and became fantastically prosperous.  The Fugger Family in particular accumulated so much capital they rivaled the Medici in becoming bankers to the cash strapped crowned heads.
The Fuggers were major benefactors of their native city, and you will see monuments to them in all the churches as well as here and there in the historic center.  Augsburg also gained prominence during the Protestant Reformation as the site of interfaith debate and the bitter and reluctant agreement Holy Roman Emperor Charles V made with his doctrinal opponents.  So the Protestants were around then, but now Augsburg is firmly and fervently Roman Catholic.  The Thirty Years War put paid to any Protestant activity in the region.
I am getting pretty good at using the ticket machines.  That's how I got my round trip ticket.  The trip takes about thirty-five to forty minutes.  A lot of the route is enclosed by walls.  Now I can sympathize with those living those to rail lines wishing to avoid train noise and the prying eyes (mine, for instance) of travelers, but it makes for a dull trip.  The few glimpses I caught of the countryside looked idyllic--although interestingly enough there were many sun farms along the route with solar panels filling the fields.
I did not feel rushed once I got there.  I made my way--largely by instinct--to the historic center and strolled around, visiting the Roman foundations, and poking around churches.  The city is handsome with a lot of very pretty buildings and squares.  One of the most interesting sites is called the Fuggeri.
One of the banking Fuggers founded alms houses for the city's poor.  Although they were destroyed in the Second World War, they have been rebuilt, and are occupied.  Rent was set way back in the sixteenth century, so centuries of inflation have passed these apartments by, so rent is less than one euro per year!  Two model apartments are open to view, one modern, and one with an Early Modern set up.  One has to pay to get in, and I thought it overpriced at four euro, but I guess they have to make up for the rent being so low.  Yes.  There's a beer garden, although they are not so prominent in Augsburg as in Munich.
The amusing thing is that people kept asking me for information.  Ha!  I was only there for the day. The best I could do was let them look at the map I got from Tourist Information.
The beer of the day is something called Premium Pils--appropriate yes?  And a very pretty golden color.  Let's have a sip.  Well.  The taste is ok but does not live up to the color or the premium label.

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