Tuesday, July 9, 2013

Schloss Nymphenburg


Gruss Gott!
What a wonderful day out--the best so far!
The day came to inaugurate my castles pass.  I looked at the map and thought I could walk to Schloss Nymphenberg, but then I thought of the parkland I wanted to wander and decided to take the tram.  I got a day pass and just missed the tram that would have taken me straight to the palace.  I got the next one that would take me within a short walk.
I like taking trams.  For one thing there is much less guess work about the stops.  Indeed I found the stop and the palace with no problem.  If you want to find Nymphenberg on google, go in the opposite direction down Arnulfstrasse from the old city.
Schloss Nymphenburg reminded me of Schoenbrunn in Vienna--not the buildings so much as these are Rococo rather than Late Baroque.  But the grounds are free and open to the public daily, and they are extensive.  Seeing the buildings in the castle complex is fun, but if the euros run short, come anyway.  You can see the outsides of the buildings for free, and then there's that marvelous parkland.
I'm just going to forget about going back to the English Garden.  The park lands at Nymphenburg are more heavily wooded and less crowded, not to mention more extensive.  Also there are no nude sunbathers.
The trees of various varieties are thickly planted, but open up here and there to glades or even broad meadows.  Traffic noise fades away, and bird song takes over.  From time to time the whirring of bike wheels or to rhymic footfalls of joggers sounded, but mostly I had the paths to myself.  I walked beside canals and freely flowing streams.
Numerous varieties of ducks appear.  I saw geese and swans as well.  One parent swan had a cygnet tucked into its back feathers as it ferried its baby around.
I visited the Amalienburg--the charming Rococo "hunting lodge" designed by Francois Cuvillies, the Belgian architect who also decorated much of the Rezidence in town.  The Schloss itself is worth seeing--and also there's a (free) toilet and handsome giftshop--but it's dim and small compared to the Rezidence.  I walked around the lake near the Badenburg--that's a bathhouse done up in Rococo splendor.  I told the attendant I wanted to move into Amalienburg.  The rooms are on a charmingly human scale.  I imagined long strolls through the parkland with my friends and then returning to find a wonderful tea laid out for us.  Sound good?
I'd walked a lot, so I felt ok about tramming back to town for some ice cream.  I also tried out a new grocery store closer to Citadines.  Yeah well.  The selection was not as good, so I am going to stick to the market and the other grocery store near Donnersbergerbrucke.  But let's try the beer.
It's ok.  I was concerned because it comes in a plastic bottle, but no beer in Germany is going to be bad.  The standards are strict!  This one is less complex than the Helles.  But listen to me writing as if I knew anything.

2 comments:

  1. I loved that palace--would so love to visit it again!

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  2. I will definitely visit the park again1

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