The Upper Belvedere

                                                 

Gruss Gott

I've been walking a lot, so I decided to treat myself to a sausage. I found a Wurststand with nice offerings and staff that spoke English, so I placed my order. This used to be a cheap snack. No more. I paid seven euro fifty for my sausage, bun, and condiments. But I must say the sausage is wonderful! It's juicy and packed with flavor. Nom nom nom.

Also attending the stand was one of my fellow Americans who attempted to pay in dollars. Oh honey. Fortunately for him the stand accepts credit cards. I told him (I might have sounded a bit condescending.), "You know you can get Euros from an ATM." He replied, "I believe you," in a tone of voice that implied this was one of the stupidest suggestions he had ever heard.  And people wonder why American tourists are widely regarded as idiots--even when the hosts are polite to their foreign visitors.

Pro Tip: Austrian sausage goes well with Austrian rose.

Now for the Tourist Action.

There was a big old thunderstorm over night. When the lightening flashes I can see it despite drawn curtains and closed eyes. Then comes the thunder and--fortunately--at last--rain. So it cooled off a bit for my second trip to Belvedere.

I obtained my timed entry ticket on line and even got a discount for being old. Armed with my ticket on my phone and having obtained more cash (Euros from the ATM only fancy!) and a transport pass, I set off.  One thing I find rather heartening. Austria operates on the honor system. No one asked for proof of my age--as if my appearance wasn't enough, and I rode the rails without having to show the ticket--which I made sure to validate.  But a society based on trust is lovely.

I climbed the hill to the Upper Belvedere. You can't tell from the photo, but the facade is phony. It's a curtain while they do restoration work.  They also had some of the of fountains working. It is, of course, possible to visit both Belvedere's in one day. I did it the first time I came to Vienna, and if it wasn't so hot, I would have done it this time, too.

I arrived early, but they let me in anyway.  Prince Eugen had excellent taste, and I approve of his house even though it's full of art rather than period rooms.  I began with the Late Medieval and Renaissance pieces, exclusively religious in nature, but some very interesting works. Here's a polychrome ceramic bas relief from an altarpiece.

Then I went upstairs where one finds a lot of Twentieth Century works--nice, but not exciting, and then the middle floor where I enjoyed the Baroque. Now the Big Draw is Klimt's "The Kiss," but I'll tell you the other works of his that are exhibited are far more compelling. Remember what a cliche Van Gogh's Starry Night became.  Samsies with The Kiss.  But Our Gustave was a much sought after society portraitist even though his sitters knew they'd be turned into some kind of mosaic.

I made my way back after a good day out.

Servus