Tuesday, July 9, 2024

Heat and the Belvedere--or at Least Part of It.

 


Gruss Gott, 

Vienna is under a dangerous heat advisory, and tomorrow will be worse. I did go out, and I plan to tomorrow as well, but I'll be coming home early.

My target for today was Prince Eugen of Savoy's Baroque palace he called The Belvedere. Last time I was here I walked to it. This time I opted for public transportation. After consulting google maps I determined to take the U Bahn to Stadtpark and then walk. I went to Stephensplaz and obtained a forty-eight hour pass from the machine. I am a champ at using ticket machines in Europe. My secret? When they ask what language I prefer I choose English.

This time I remembered to validate my ticket before boarding. When I first arrived I did take the U Bahn, but in my jet lagged haze forgot (And I did know I should) to validate the ticket. I got away with it, too, but I felt guilty.

Vienna's subways are very nice and easy to use. I changed lines at Landstrasse and got off at Stadtpark and followed the directions to Belvedere that I got from google maps. For a wonder I did not get turned around and found the entrance easily.  But it was already Very Hot by the time I arrived.

The Belvedere comes in two parts. I stuck to the Lower Belvedere, but I plan to visit the Upper Belvedere later. I did take the opportunity to stroll in the lovely palace garden, where I admired the statuary and fountains and talked to the birds I saw.  Someday when I come here the Grand Cascade will be working. It's a huge fountain that gushes between the two Belvederes.

I entered the Lower Belvedere with my trusty Vienna Pass. This is when I learned that entering one Belvedere automatically registered the other, and I was given a yellow ribbon to show I was legit.  I meant to return to see the Upper Belvedere tomorrow, but that will have to wait.

The Lower Belvedere is mostly used as an exhibition space for Modern Art. The offerings were the works of two women, one a surrealist, and the other more of a Matisse-like style with subdued Northern coloring.

The visitor can also see a few of Prince Eugen's sumptuous rooms. What I was really after was the collection of Late Medieval Art, which I like very much, but I also realize it's not to everyone's taste. I found a lot of highly colored altarpieces and polychrome statuary. I know what's going on because I am familiar with Bible stories and iconography, so if you chance on a similar exhibit you might want me along to explain things.


When I came out it was HOT. I made my way back to the U Bahn station and got my train. I stopped off at Landstrasse where I stopped on my way into town. I wanted to have a look at the shopping mall, which to my jet lagged brain appeared fascinating. On examination it was not, but I did get a bottle of water which I sorely needed at that point. Then I got the train for Stephansplaz and home.  The trip was marred by the presence of a busker in my car--in fact he and his accordion was right next to me. Some people gave him money. These folks wouldn't do it if it didn't pay, but I find the forced "entertainment" annoying.

But on my way home I found Rotenturmstrasse clogged with tour groups, most of whose members were elderly. Walking around the city in this heat can't be fun.

Servus

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