Charles de Gaulle--Waiting to Board

 Bon jour, mes amies,

I left very early, which meant I was up most of the night packing, etc.  Pretty much right outside my aparthotel is an elevator down to the Paris Metro System.  I did not even have to mess with an escalator.  My trip here went very smoothly.

I found my check in place, managed to use the automated system to print out my boarding pass and luggage tag.  I got in line to check in when the fun began.  The man was very polite, but insistent.  The negative covid test I so proudly presented was not valid.  I got it Monday because I am used to the tests taking a couple of days.  Well, they don't do that in France.  I needed a test the day before or the day of, so I had to get a retest.

This was actually not bad.  I was directed to a tent outside.  I did not have to wait in line, and the results were ready in fifteen minutes.  Negative, of course.

So then I checked in and took the shuttle to L terminal and went through security.  CDG is getting strict.  We did not have to take off our shoes, but they wanted to see my compliant liquids (which haven't been checked for years) and even my kindle (for the first time ever).  I'm used to pulling out my computer, but they also wanted it out of its case.

I stopped in a duty free for a quick squirt of expensive scent.  I have to tell you wherever I am going at whatever airport it is, my departure gate is always, ALWAYS at the furthest reaches of the terminal.  But I'm going to be sitting for a long time, so it's good to get in some walking.

Au revoir!

Update: I am home and jet lagged out of my mind.  I have not slept for more than 24 hours.  Once I got to Los Angeles things went smoothly.  But my boarding did not.  The machine rejected my boarding pass, so I had to go through an extensive security check.  The people were very polite and respectful, and naturally I cooperated, but what was up with that.  On board a very nice young man offered to heft my bag up and down, so that was nice.

Musee de Cluny: Art of the Middle Ages

 Bon jour, mes amies,

You will be relieved to know that my Covid test situation has been sorted.  My birthdate was entered incorrectly and apparently was easy to fix.  The lovely young woman from the pharmacie even printed out my negative test results.  I should be good to go.

The Musee de Cluny is one of my favorites in Paris, so I was disappointed to learn on arrival that it was closed.  But it has now reopened, and I went for a visit after I dealt with the pharmacie and visited my bakery.  I knew I did not have to rush back for the stage because it's starting a bit later.

I had to cross the Seine and walk a bit up hill, but it was easy to find.  I got there a little after opening and had to wait in line, but once inside the place did not seem crowded.  The museum is in the heart of the Latin Quarter, not far from the Sorbonne.  The site incorporates an old Roman bath, which in the Middle Ages was adapted into a monastery.  Unfortunately the lovely herb garden was closed, but the rest of the museum was definitely worth the visit.

In my Art History teaching days, I developed a taste for Late Medieval Art, and Cluny has some outstanding examples in a variety of media.  You can also find some extremely fine works from the Early and High Middle Ages.  The ivory carvings and enamel work are amazing--some so small and detailed.  Also on exhibit is some statuary salvaged from various churches, including Notre Dame de Paris.

The Late Medieval Art is the most spectacular in my view.  I saw polychrome sculptures, energetic, action packed wood carvings. There were some wonderfully preserved ceramics, and also vivid paintings and intricate tapestries.  Of course, what people come to see is the Lady and the Unicorn, an allegory of the five senses in an exquisite tapestry.  Ok, the lion sometimes looks like a monkey, and no one knows what the little dogs are for, but it's lovely.

I took an indirect route home so I could wander down those narrow twisty streets I like so well.  But it is hot today, so I sought the shady sides of streets and was glad to get back to my room and a big glass of water.

My reflections on this trip are as follows:  I'm glad I came.  This has not been the best trip ever, but I have come back to Europe and am getting my travel habits back, and I got a lot of good walking in.  It has done me personally a world of good to go out every day and be in the world.  Yes, I wore my mask and drank green tea, so I took precautions when the French and most tourists seem to believe the Pandemic is over (hint, it's not), but I enjoyed myself and gained back my confidence.

Now I need to figure out my packing.  I won't say A demain, but if I get a chance to post from Charles De Gaulle, I will.

Merci pour votre participation. Au Revoir!

A Covid Test and Some Hunting and Gathering

 Bon jour, mes amies.

As I was making my way home, to my delight it began to rain.  Experience has taught me always to carry an umbrella in Europe, so up it went.  The day was warm and the rain gentle.  Lovely. 

Il Giro is having a rest day, so I did not need to hurry back for the stage, but I am enjoying some nice green tea, and soon I'll have apero.  I need to use up those olives.

Overnight Paris experienced a thunderstorm.  I was asleep and my room has a heavy curtain over the window, but I still saw the lightening flash.  I knew what it was, and after a few seconds came the thunder.  A bit of rain fell after a while.

So the streets were wet when I set out.  I strolled along Rue Saint Honore where I easily found the recommended pharmacy.  They are used to foreigners needing the test and were pretty fast and efficient.  I showed my passport and I had to pay, but not as much as I thought I would.  The technician stuck the q tip thing way, way up my nose.  Ugh!  But quick.  There's a hitch though. I got an email from the French Health Department.  I guess my results are ready?  But they won't accept my birthdate, so I'm going to have to go back to the pharmacy tomorrow morning and sort things out.  I'm pretty sure she did not write my birthdate down.

I circled back via my favorite bakery and picked up something for tomorrow's dinner.  I dumped it off and proceeded to Les Halles.  I'd scoped out a big store there that contained many good goodies for presents.  I got myself something, too.

This took a while, but I had plenty of time to stroll around in a leisurely way licking the occasional window and popping into promising shops.  My area abounds with narrow and sometimes twisty streets. so it's really fun to explore down them. 

And I did do something touristy today.  The Eglise de St Eustache is Right there, and I have never visited  it. so I went in today as it was open.  It's a flamboyant Gothic church and very beautiful, but there's a reason why it's not more famous.

There are some things that every visitor to Paris MUST do.  When I came here the first time I visited the Eiffel Tower and took a tour on a bateau mouche.  I would include another experience--Hot Chocolate at Angelina's.  I did this last time when they started staying open for the summer and had the Africane at the original site on the Rue di Rivoli.  It was expensive and the service was iffy, but the chocolate was so rich and gooey it made me feel a bit drunk.  The bottle I got at Galeries La Fayette was not quite like that, but it was close, and I had to eat it with a spoon.

A demain

A Sunday Stroll in the Marais

 Bon jour mes amies,

I came back early for the bike race, but also it was getting too hot and muggy for walking.  It's supposed to rain over night, but we'll see.  I seem to have brought Southern California with me because it's been very dry even when rain was in the forecast.

I went out early to get some cash and ran into a (charity?) run, which seemed like quite a big deal.  Hundreds of people wearing badges with different colors and numbers converged on Parc de Nelson Mandala, and there was a live band and all sorts of things going on.  They even had dozens of the French version of porta potties--with really long lines to use.  People with uniforms and flags directed and encouraged the participants.  Clearly from the runners, youth and fitness were not necessary qualifications, but they all looked enthusiastic.

Leaving my sweater behind, I set off for the Marais thinking that things might be a bit more lively there, and this was so.  More things were open, and I also had window licking opportunities.  It was nice to stretch my legs.

But here I am awaiting the stage and drinking green tea.  I'm going to have a apero dinatoire today.  This morning I had my croissant and the last of the divine butter.  I did a good job rationing it out and limiting consumption as I wished to focus more on cheese and foie gras for my French Saturated Fat Experience.  I have black and green olives with herbes de Provence, my tasty goat cheese, foie gras de canard, and plenty of rose, which is an AOC version from the South of France.

I am extremely puzzled as to why a major climb in the Heart of Italy is called Blockhaus.  Maybe the commentators will explain it.  The charming young man currently wearing the leader's jersey is likely to lose it today, but he had a good run and apparently enjoyed bossing the pelaton around.  I resorted to google to satisfy my curiosity, the name of the climb dates back to the bad old days of Austrian occupation before Italy was unified.  A notorious Austrian Commander held the mountain top as his stronghold and the name stuck. And finally the commentators explained it probably due to popular demand.

A demain

Back to Les Grandes Boulevards

 Bon jour, mes amies,

The bike race is starting later today, so I got in a good day of touristing.  I started out with some chores.  I went to get a croissant at the fancy bakery.  It's in the freezer.

Why don't you just get one fresh on Sunday morning?"

You'll find plenty of bakeries open on Sundays, but Julien is closed up tight, and anyway I eat early.  I also had to go to the grocery store.  A lot of things are closed on Sundays in Europe. I had to learn to plan ahead.

I also got a notice from Air France.  They need me to fill out a form stating that I have had a negative covid test.  I asked one of the nice young people at reception to print it for me.  It looks like Air France is willing to take my word for it, but I think U.S. Border Control is going to want proof.  Fortunately the staff here is familiar with the need and I was directed to a pharmacy where I can be tested on Monday.

Right now I am sipping green tea and awaiting the stage.

It was a nice day--good for walking--and as you may have noticed, I just like walking around the city.  Many of the buildings are beautiful.  They have shops on the ground floor and maybe offices on the first floor, but then there are apartments above.  I often wonder what it would be like to live in one.  I suspect chronic plumbing problems.

So it's nice to enjoy some sunshine and fresh air in a beautiful city with plenty of windows to lick and cute dogs to admire.  I took a new route via Rue Monmartre which winds around a bit, but then empties into Boulevard Monmartre, which changes its name it seems every two blocks.  I was soon walking on Boulevard Hausmann where I immediately came upon a flea market--what the French call Brocante.  It wasn't a big one, but there were a few fun looking things.  I don't buy what I can't pack though.

Yes, I was going back to Galeries La Fayette in particular the food store.  I thought rightly that it would be a good place to pick up some presents, but I had a good look around at everything.  I came upon a refrigerated case full of nothing but luxury appetizers.  Savory petite fours, anyone?  I am glad I didn't know about this before or my elderly digestion surely would have suffered overload.  I'm going to be content with olives, the last of the dolmas, and some Valencay cheese today.  I'll have some pasta for dinner. 

I did buy some things at Galeries La Fayette,  I found something I know that my friends like that came in packable form.  I also got something naughty that I can't pack, so I'll have to consume it here as soon as I figure out how.  

A demain

An update.  I was watching the race and almost dozing when my doorbell rang.  Usually my room is done on Sunday, but she showed up today.  I had to get dressed and vacate.  I took my lap top with me to watch the race, but I'm back now, and I decided to have a treat--the naughtiness I mentioned earlier.  I got some Angelina hot chocolate in a bottle and I heated it up in my microwave.  Hot chocolate madness!  So rich.

Opera Garnier

 Bon jour, mes amies,

Yes, I went back, and La Opera is definitely worth a visit.  Lavish is the word for this building. Napoleon III himself requested a grand opera house and chose Charles Garnier to design and decorate it.  The location was carefully chosen to take advantage of Baron Hausmann's reworking of Paris streets as it has its own grand avenue and is just off the Grandes Boulevards.  The building simply screams Second Empire grandiosity, and yet it manages to be beautiful and harmonious albeit overwhelming.

When I got there, a long line had already formed, and the site opened late.  I amused myself watching clueless visitors march up to the entrance.  They must have thought the rest of us were lined up for funsies.  The attendants directed them to the rear of the line.

The exterior is ornate with statues, pilasters, cornices, and reliefs.  There's an Art Historical term horror vacui. Every available surface has its decoration.  The outside does not compare with the interior which has all of those plus mosaics and frescos. I wondered how much gold leaf was employed.  Acres, I imagine.  One can rent an audio guide, but I did not.  While waiting to go upstairs (A school group of little kids had to be sorted out) a woman spoke to me in French.  I replied apologetically in English, "I'm a tourist."  She brightened.  "Me, too!"  She asked me to take a photo of her with her phone, and of course, I was happy to oblige.  Plenty of people have helped me out in just this way on my journeys.

I had a good wander.  A few of the boxes are open.  I got a good view (and photo) of the lovely Marc Chagall fresco in the central dome.  I also marveled at the various vestibules meant as a place for the fashionable world to gather before and after the performances.  Some costumes from past performances are on display.  A lot of us went out on the balcony that overlooks the Place and Avenue de la Opera for a great view of the chaos.

My trips there taught me to value the quiet and lack of bustle of my own neighborhood.  Driving in Paris must be a horror show.  I would not even take a taxi lest I die of fear.  I am astounded that there are not more accidents.  And if you need the police or an emergency vehicle--well, don't hold your breath.  They are stuck in traffic like everyone else.  A couple of Very Swank Hotels are in this area.  The rest are on the Champs Elysees.  I'll stick to Les Halles.

I hard boiled some eggs this morning and am having one with my apero.  I also stopped on the way back at my favorite fast food place.  You may be surprised I have one, but I have always enjoyed Pret a Manger.  Despite the French name it's a British outfit.  All the food is organic and fair trade, not to mention delicious.  I have never been disappointed.  As a bonus, they were one of the first food sellers to do social outreach to the homeless and hungry.  A few outlets exist in the United States and if you run across one, don't hesitate to stop in.  I got a Salad Nicoise Wrap to remind myself of all those Pan Bagnats I ate in Nice.  This one isn't authentic, but it sure is good!

A demain

Grandes Boulevard and Galeries La Fayette

 Bon jour, mes amies,

The title of the post was meant to be Opera Garnier, but this has been that kind of trip.  It was closed today.  I got a good look at the outside and took a photo, but I'll have to go back another day.  As it happens I have never been inside.

I am sorting myself out before the stage begins.  They will be back on the mainland of Italy.

I chose the Opera because it's on this side of the river, and while longish, the walk to it was flat and simple--just go down Rue Saint Honore and turn onto Avenue de la Opera, and one cannot miss the target.  It's that huge, ornate building at the end of the street.

But I started out the day with a trip to the Bourse where I could find my bank's French partner.  I like that particular place because I can go inside to use the ATM.  As it happens there was another branch on Avenue de la Opera, but I did not know that.

Avenue de la Opera is also lined with high end chocolate shops.  These stores are beautiful as are the wares, and correspondingly expensive.  I just licked the windows, but it would be rude to come to France and not eat their chocolate, and you know I am nothing but polite.

So after walking nearly all around that gigantic building, I found the ticket office closed.  Well, bummer.  But wait!  All is not lost.  Raising my eyes I saw that I was a block away from Galeries La Fayette.  I made my way there.  Now I actually did not go into the main department store.  Instead I attended the food hall.  Oh My Goodness.  The Galeries have really stepped up their game.  It's gorgeous and comprehensive and could rival Harrods.  There's a grocery store downstairs where the fruit, veg, wine, cheese, etc. are.  The ground floor is specialty counters, and yes, I did buy something. But pretty much anything your heart desired including caviar is on offer.  Legendary chef Alain Ducasse has his own brand of chocolate now.  The displays of everything are highly tempting and also pricey, but the quality is of the highest.

When I woke up this morning I realized I was Out Of Cheese--a horrid state of affairs that could not be allowed to continue.  I was willing to cheat on Rue Montorgueil with Galeries La Fayette, but they did not have the cheese I wanted, so I came home via my favorite cheese shop on the Rue.  I really like Rocamador, but I could not find it when I first got here.  I wonder if it's a seasonal product.  It's a young goat cheese that comes in delicate disks. I even eat the rind. I also got some Valencay because I love it so much.

I noticed in my wanderings an unusual police presence on the streets and coming home there were armed guards (with very serious looking weapons) who were patrolling the park around the Les Halles shopping center.  I'm guessing there was some kind of terrorist threat, but no one seemed to be concerned and we all carried on.

I am having a far more luxurious apero than usual.  I have olives with herbes de Provence, a disk of Rocamador, some foie gras, and a dolmas--I picked a few up at the Galeries.  There was a counter of Mediterranean Delights that simply screamed mezze or apero or whatever version takes your fancy.

Now for some bike racing.

A demain

Staying Local

 Bon jour, mes amies,

Let me take a sip of green tea.  I did not have a big touristing day, but some museums that were closed are going to reopen, and I'd like to visit them.  But meanwhile the stage is on.  A fairly obscure rider is in the leader's jersey, but he won it convincingly, and he's on a strong team, so I hope he can hold on to it for a while. He's from Spain and it's been seven years since a Spaniard has worn the pink jersey.

I went out for groceries this morning and then, since it was a warm and brilliantly sunny day. I strolled around my neighborhood.  I'm situated in the heart of a largely pedestrianized district.  One does have to beware of zooming bicycles, but I had a pleasant, refreshing stroll until I heard the stage calling me.  Subsequent stages will begin later, so I'll have time to shop and tourist around.

Il Giro is riding across Sicily, and apart from the race, I'm in for some lovely scenery and fascinating architecture.

But my neighborhood also presents some intriguing features.  The French have embraced foreign and fusion food.  Monoprix has a sushi bar!  I also see offers of "French tacos," but the photographs do not inspire me to try one.  They don't look anything like tacos, nor do they appear French.  On a previous trip I kept running across "American sandwiches," so I finally asked about them.  French takes on American food are usually good for a chuckle.  It was a hamburger with ketchup and then fries piled in the bun.   I have a Five Guys and a Burger King close by, but a lot of French non-chain places are big on burgers.  They are definitely a thing in Paris.  Thai food seems to be popular in Paris as well.

Well, that walking and talking about food has put me in the mood for Apero.  I have the last of my Livarot, some olives, and some foie gras.  I thought I'd better grab it while supplies last.

An Actual Rest Day

 Bon jour, mes amies,

An interesting morning.  The power kept going off for a minute or so, but then the internet would stay off for longer.  I have never had that happen in a hotel.  This went on for about half an hour.  The microwave clock still hasn't recovered.

I was really tired yesterday and slept a lot, but when I woke up, I didn't feel great.  Don't worry--no Covid here, it's my elderly and fragile digestion.  By the time I started to feel better, it was time for the bike race.

Speaking of cycling, in my wanderings around the city I come across adds for familiar companies.  Oh, they sponsor a cycling team!  Even Burger King is a minor sponsor of one of the teams.  The name is emblazoned across the riders' butts.

I have had some of the lovely, but stinky Livarot, and some olives, and now I'm going to recruit my forces with some green tea.  I'll probably have pasta for dinner.

The riders are going up Mount Etna in Sicily.  Evidently the (extremely) active volcano is a major tourist attraction.  It's one that I would gladly miss were I ever to have the privilege of visiting the island.

A demain

A Rest and Shopping Day

 Bon jour, mes amies,

I kind of want to apologize for my age, but I have decided it's not necessary.  I have been touristing pretty hard, so I want another easy day.  The trip has done me good.  In contrast to my habits at home, I have gone out every single day and done something--including today.  I get pretty fresh air--for a city--and some sunshine and healthful exercise.  But sometimes, I am just not in much of a mood to be a great traveller, and it's understandable when I am here for a longer time.

Of course I went out.  I had to go to Monoprix after the weekend.  And I did some shopping at Les Halles.  For one thing there's a giant pharmacy.  I find French pharmacies as fascinating as the grocery stores.  This one has EVERYTHING including high end skin care and cosmetics, but then most of them do. 

In addition pharmacists act as a kind of primary care physicians or at least physicians' assist.ants.  If you have health question, go ahead and ask.  They will either answer or refer you to the proper health authority.  Moreover, I am relieved that many pharmacies in my vicinity will offer covid tests.  I will need a negative test to reeenter the United States.

So I walked around Les Halles, and I attended Rue Montorgueil.  The cheese shops where closed but I found a rotisserie, and I pounced.

What they call poulet fermier is free range chicken. One feature of French food markets is these chicken being slow roasted on a rotisserie.  It is a bit on the pricey side, but so good.  I attended Rue Montorgueil today and got half a one.  I may just eat the whole thing.  It is so chickeny, and the meat is moist and tender, and so very tasty.  I'm only embarrassed that I can't turn the bones into stock.

I am replete with meat.

A demain

A Lazy Sunday in Paris

 Bon jour, mes amies,

I wonder what I look like to people.  I'm wearing a mask, my hair is a mess, and I don't dress very well, and yet I had person after person trying to press political pamphlets on me.  And they were picking me out of the crowd.  "Je suis touriste," I said, the horrible accent leading credence to my assertion.  I must exude essence of voter.  That part is accurate anyway.

The bike race started early today, and it's also the day my room gets done, so I'm downstairs, with my earbuds trying to follow the stage despite the people who need to be down here chatting.  I acquired some noisy neighbors last night, and these folks seem to be the same crowd--very sociable they are.  I brought down my mug and some almonds, so I can have a drink and snack later on.

I want to avoid taking the metro as much as possible, and I didn't want to go too far afield anyway, so I strolled down to the Palais Royale, which is a very pleasant place to stroll.  There is a colonnade lined with shops and cafes--and I shudder to think of what the rent for such a location must be.  None of them were selling anything I'd want anyway.  I observed an encounter between an English Bulldog and a Frenchie.  They seemed to get along.

The Palais Royale also has chestnut trees and rose gardens.  It's lovely.  The central fountain has an installation of plastic figurines of little green men.  I did take a photo.  And I came back via Rue Saint Honore, but I didn't come home yet.

I attended the street market on Rue Monmartre fascinated as usual by the offerings.  Then I walked up and down Rue Montorgueil plotting future purchases.  So it was a slow day, but I did walk more than ten thousand steps.

Now I'd like to focus on the stage.

A demain

Le Louvre Encore

 Bon jour, mes amies,

I had a much better experience.  I got there early, and there was already a longish line, which grew exponentially behind me.  But once they open the Louvre folks are efficient at getting visitors in.  I got to see most of what I wanted, and I didn't need to be in a hurry because the stage of the Giro starts later today.

I had determined that I was going to hit the highlights, and years of teaching Art History have given me the knowledge and eye to pick out the best.  There are a LOT of art works of all kinds in the Louvre, so one needs to direct one's attention wisely.  This meant climbing a lot of stairs.

I went to look at the the Venus de Milo.  I don't like the way she's exhibited.  When I first saw her she was at ground level, and I found the statue to be strikingly beautiful.  I'd seen photos, of course, but seeing her in person like that made me realize why she is so famous.  Now she's up on a pedestal, and I don't think the viewing angle is as effective.

Then off to the paintings.  The galleries were crowded, but they are also spacious, so it wasn't so bad.  Of course, everyone (but me) wants to see Mona, and I guess you have to at least once because it is a truly great painting  I tell people that they really need to see works of art in person because the photos do not convey the subtleties and power of the works, but I make an exception for the Mona Lisa.  The painting is small, you can't get close to it, and you're better off studying a high quality plate.  Also in the main gallery you can find Leonardos you can actually get a good look at like Virgin of the Rocks, St. John, the Virgin and St. Anne, and La Belle Ferronniere.

I'm not going to make a list of all the goodies I got to see, but I was satisfied and not too worn out and even had the gumption to visit the small Asian collection.

I came home via the fancy bakery on Rue St. Honore.  I wish to be a good and proper guest in whatever country I have the privilege to visit.  Here I am in Paris, and it's just plain rude not to eat pastry.  Now one good effect of the Pandemic is that it kept me away from sugar, and in previous visits I would have already been knee deep in macarons and chocolate.  It seems like there's a patisserie on every corner, so there's lots of temptation, but I managed to resist.  But I got a tartlette citron to have for desert because it's the polite and respectful thing to do.

I mean to have said tartlette for desert, but let's have a bite, so you can envy my tastebuds.  Mmmmmm.  There's a thin, sweet, buttery crust, and then the lemon custard filling so rich and creamy.

In other news, I was lucky to get foie gras when I did.  France has been swept by an epidemic of bird flu, which has killed a lot of geese and ducks.  I imagine the shortages will soon become evident.  Michelin starred restaurants are already responding to the crisis.  Only in France, I suppose.

Musee Eugene Delacroix

 Bon jour, mes amies,

I'm back early for two reasons. One, I thought I deserved an easy day, and two, I wanted to be back for the bike race because Il Giro d'Italia starts today--in Hungary even though it's the Tour of Italy, but they'll end up in Italy next week.  I have not been able to watch this race for years, so I'm excited.  I am a major cycling fan and know the terms in five languages.  If I seem distracted while composing the blog you'll know why.

I mostly like Eugene Delacroix's work, and I thought that a visit to his old house would be easy and fun, and it's on the museum card.  I consulted google maps and worked out a route.  Being me, I missed my turn and took the long way around.  Also being me and a woman of my age, I sometimes develop an urgent need for facilities.  In the United States finding them is easy, but this is Paris.  I ended up going into a nice looking hotel and asking humbly, and I was directed very kindly to what I needed.  Parisians can be very gracious.

The Musee Eugene Delacroix is not very imposing.  It sits in a corner of  pleasant quiet square, and the artist lived and worked there for many years.  After his death, his friends had to move fast to keep the house from being torn down.  The museum is not very large because he lived in a smallish house with a garden.  One enters into a courtyard and then into the house.  The visit starts up stairs and from there one goes outside to his small studio and then the lovely garden full of roses, which was designed and planted by Delacroix himself.

His grand works are in other places.  I'll be seeing some tomorrow at the Louvre if all works out.  What is mostly on display are works he did for fun or to develop some techniques.  He was a tremendously skilled artist, so even his scribblings have a life and power to them.  I would not mind having any of them on my wall at home.  He was also fascinated or even obsessed with tigers and other big cats.

Evidently they want to encourage visitors, so even if you don't have a museum pass, your admission to the Louvre also includes this museum.

I got back in plenty of time to drink water, make some green tea (research suggests it bolsters the immune system, and I'll take all the help I can get), and take my shoes and contact lenses off.  For apero I have a hard cooked egg and some olives to go with my kir royale.  I'll have tuna for dinner.

Ok. Citadines needed to test their alarm system.  When I looked outside, a very nice young man reassured me everything was ok.

The Latin Quarter and Luxembourg Gardens

 Bon jour, mes amies,

It's starting to cloud over, and now that I'm back home getting ready for apero, I'd love it if it would rain.  But the forecast says there's only a miniscule chance.

I'm getting used to the cool mornings. This May so far has not been very warm, but I guess the walking does me good.  I set out for the Pantheon, and I got there with no problem, it being a fairly straight shot across the river--although I did have to climb a hill.  And the Pantheon is impossible to miss.  It's huge!

First some history because it's my blog, and you know you are going to get some.  The Patron Saint of Paris is St. Genevieve, a visionary teenager who is credited with saving Paris from the plague and Attilla the Hun with her prayers.  A church/monastery dedicated to her was built on this site and massively rebuilt in the Eighteenth Century.  But during the French Revolution like many other churches, the building was secularized, renamed the Pantheon, and repurposed to be a memorial to distinguished or heroic Frenchman (and later French Women as well).  The building is in the monumental Neo Classical style and is more or less a cruciform centrally planned  interior with a huge dome capping the whole business.

Now what I remembered and wanted to see were the frescoed panels by Pierre Puvis de Chavanne with scenes from the life of St. Genevieve.  I'd forgotten how big and glittering the place was.  There are a lot of patriotic paintings and sculptures.  There are also some (in my opinion bizzare) art installations.  I mean who needs raggedy clothes or a bunch of rusted out bicycles?

Downstairs is the crypt reserved for the most distinguished of corpses.  Being buried in the Pantheon is a Very Big Deal and a very rare honor.  For example, we find Voltaire, Victor Hugo, and Emile Zola.  Louis Braille is nearby.  If you had a geiger counter you could find the radio active bodies of Marie and Pierre Curie.  I don't want to forget the American Josephine Baker.  She wasn't just an entertainer.  The French revere her as a heroine of the resistance to German Occupation.  Up stairs Foucault's Pendulum hangs from the dome.  You can also find it at Arts and Metiers.

Leaving the Pantheon I set out down Rue Cujas and eventually made my way to the Luxembourg Gardens. This is a lovely green space in which to stroll around, or sit and contemplate life, or picnic.  The park originated as a pleasure palace and grounds created by the Queen and Regent Marie de Medici. At the southern end sits the beautiful building used by the Senate of the French Republic, and the Medici Fountain, a pond where you could rent a toy sail boat and play with it.  I did not do this.  Instead I walked for a while under the chestnut trees, and then I could hear the cheese calling me, so I headed for home.

Apero is more of that lovely cheese I got yesterday along with some olives and rose wine.  The cheese stinks up my fridge, but oh does it taste good!  By the way, never eat cold cheese.  I take it out of the fridge and let it come to room temperature.  It's worth the wait. If the truth were told, I come to France to eat high quality saturated fat.  I tell myself that all the walking makes up for it.

A demain

Musee de Rodin

 Bon jour, mes amies,

You can see by the title of this post that I made it. It took some doing, but it was worth it and a very satisfying day out.

This time I was prepared.  I used google maps to work out a route from Place de Concorde.  As I surmised it was a reasonable walk.  The snag was that the street that google maps wanted me to take once I'd crossed the river seemingly didn't exist.  Instead I fetched up at the Esplanade des Invalides and found a sign directing me to the Musee Rodin.  I found it with no problem and got in right away using my museum pass.

To my delight the museum had been refurbished and the gardens expanded.  Mes amies, it's worth it to come for the garden alone, but you will also find examples of the artist's wonderful works.  He's one of my favorites.  You can find The Thinker among the roses, and further along is the monumental figure of Balzac (google him!).  I had a lovely wander in this green and flowery site with its meandering paths punctuated by works of art. In Art History Rodin is classified as a Post Impressionist, but he was classically trained, and one can see the traces of classicism in some of his works.  He began with conventional works, but he soon threw that off, and his art became much more powerful and expressive.  There's a great exhibit inside as well.  I did the gardens first, but it's your choice.  I especially like Walking Man (yeah, google it) and the Kiss.

Then I had to make my way back to the Place de Concorde.  I came upon my bank's international partner and obtained some cash.  I got on the metro and came back, but I had developed a yen for fromage, so instead of coming straight home I attended Rue Montorgueil and found a fromagerie that had exactly what I wanted.  A tasting will follow.

But first.  Is Paris water magic?  I wear my mask every day for hours on end, and yet I do not have the maskne I had at home.  Speaking of masks.  They are required on public transit, and people wear them.  I cannot promise that everyone wears the mask correctly.  I see nostrils.  I do not like this.  And moreover, do you know what the predominant litter is in Paris these days?  It used to be cigarette butts, but the city mounted a campaign against this.  Now in these days of Covid 19 what you will find on the streets are discarded masks.  They are everywhere!

Stop messing around, Pil, and get to the cheese.

I got some more Valencay because I like it so much, and goat cheese is easier on my aging digestive system.  It really has a distinctive flavor I cannot describe.  You'll need to come and taste it for yourselves.  The other cheese I got was some raw milk (lait cru) Livarot.  Raw milk cheese that has not been aged for sixty days is illegal in the United States.  The stuff I got is AOP, and we are in stinky territory.  This is a cows milk cheese from Normandy, and it's soooooo goooood.

A demain

When Both Plans A and B Come to Naught

 Bon jour, mes amies,

Do you like reading about how I deal with the frustrations of foreign travel?  You have certainly come to the right place with this blog.  I have a new museum pass.  I had plans.  Ha ha ha ha ha.  Of course, I should have taken my map.  That would have helped.

I wanted to visit Musee Rodin, and it was a bit far to walk, so I decided to take the metro.  I'd have to change to another line, but no big deal--until we got to the stop before mine and were asked to leave the train.  There are repairs going on and the line past that point is shut down.

Fine, I thought, climbing to the street, I'm out here already, I'll just walk the rest of the way.  I walked across the Place de Concorde and found a bridge and guessed.  Wrongly.  After a while I realized this, but no problem, because the Musee de Eugene Delacroix was up ahead.  I remembered seeing signs on my way to the d'Orsay.  And it was a pleasant day and few people were smoking on the streets.  Things were fine.  I saw the sign and turned up Rue Bonaparte and walked a long way.  I passed a lot of interesting art galleries, the kind that sell art, so that was fun to look at.At length there was another sign, but I could not find the street named in it.  Well, phooey.

To console myself I walked back a bit to visit St. Germain des Pres because I just love Romanesque churches, and this is the only one in Paris.  The rest are Gothic or Baroque--or in the case of Sacre Coeur--eclectic.   Even St. Germain is not pure Romanesque.  There are many Gothic.  It's a beautiful church gorgeously decorated with frescos, paintings, and statuary.  All the visitors remained silent as requested, so it was a peaceful and beautiful place to spend some time.

I actually could have metroed back from St. Germain, but I'm walking myself into fitness and it was a nice day, so I proceeded down Blvd. St Germain with a few short detours looking mostly at food shops.  I was tempted but did not buy having treats at home.   Like the rest of the foie gras.  The French eat it as an appetizer, but I'm guessing not very often.  It is an indulgence.  And pain Polaine goes with everything.  A simple, but perfect apero. Dinner was a Breton galette with ham and cheese.

You don't need to feel sorry for me.  I got to walk around Paris and the city itself is a sight and experience.

A demain.

A Wander Around the Ile de la Cite and the Left Bank

 Bon jour, mes amies,

I'm refreshing myself with some green tea.  There's no bike race today, but there's a Big One coming up next Friday.

I didn't go to any museums today, but I did do something slightly underhanded in regard to my next visit to the Louvre.  My old museum pass ran out, and I now have a new one, but this morning before I went out to purchase the new pass, I reserved a time at the Louvre.  I'm getting in Saturday morning at opening, and I'm hoping for a better experience.

My morning routine includes an earlier breakfast than the French would consider proper.  I scope out museum openings, use google maps, check the weather, do my dishes and straighten up the place.  I went to the grocery store where once again I triumphed over the automatic check out machine.  Who says you can't teach an old Pil new tricks?  I will discuss a purchase below

Then I made my way down to the Hotel de Ville and the tourist office. Having made my purchase I crossed the Seine, first stopping to note that the H de V will be hosting a food festival at some point soon.  Hmm.  Admission is free, but I'm sure one has to pay for any food and drink.

I wanted to have a closer look at Notre Dame.  Of course, one cannot get close to the site--it's too dangerous, but one can see quite a bit of the work, and the City of Paris has provided a very informative exhibition on the kind and extent of the damage, what they were able to salvage, and the details of the restoration work.  It is truly on a massive scale.  The original construction of these gothic cathedrals appears something like a miracle to begin with.  Now with modern technology and materials, it is still amazing work.  Giant cranes loom over the site.  The flying buttresses have been reenforced with wooden frames.  I saw a guy climbing around on the side of the building.  He looked like a human fly, but I had no idea what he was doing.

There was some kind of Fete de Police going on, so some of the streets were blocked off, but I still strolled Boulevard St. Michel, which is terribly touristy, and just walked around at random seeing some sights and enjoying the pleasant day.  But after a while I get citied out, so I turned for home although I took a round about way.  I was stopped and asked for directions.  The young man was very polite and spoke English, so I could help him.  He was looking for the Pantheon and going the wrong direction.

I bought some more eggs, and they are sitting out on my counter European fashion.  I used to look for eggs in refrigerated sections, but now I know better.  European eggs don't get washed and they can stand to sit out for a bit.  I do put them in the fridge when I hard cook them.

I am having an especially luxurious apero this afternoon, but if foie gras offends you, skip to the next paragraph,  This isn't even pate.  I got a slice of foie gras de canard entier--in other words an unprocessed slice of the duck liver, which is the gold standard of foie gras.  I happen to prefer duck liver, but a real connoisseur goes for goose.  It was a bit expensive--nearly six euro for a small slice, but I wanted to try it.  One serves the stuff lightly chilled on (in my case) a slice of pain Polaine and some cremant.  You'll want a wine with some acidity that can cut through the fatty taste of the liver.  This is very good indeed.  It has a rich, rather nutty flavor.  I cut the already small slice in half, so I'm indulging but not to excess.

For dinner I am having another galette. This time it's with goat cheese and bacon bits, and it's good, but I liked the other one better.

A demain

A Trip on the Metro

 Bon jour mes amis,

Happy May Day!

Please join me for un petite dejeuner.  Now usually I eat a fairly healthful breakfast of pain Polaine and hummus.  But it's Sunday morning and this time I'm going more French, except I have my breakfast far earlier than they do.  I've thawed my croissant and have butter and jam to go with it, and a hard boiled egg to provide some protein.  The croissant smells wonderful--right out of the oven fresh, and it's so flakey and good.  Even in the best bakeries they offer croissants and other flakey pastries made with (gasp) margarine.  You can specify croissant de beurre or look for straight croissants.  That's right the actual crescent shaped ones are non traditional, and are, in my opinion, to be avoided.  This is one major reason why I come to France in general and Paris in particular.  It may seem like overkill to spread butter on a croissant made with butter, but the butter comes from Pascal Beillevaire,  It's the demi sel raw milk butter, and it is divine!  A thin spread of strawberry preserve sends breakfast into the Empyrean. 

It's later, and I'm coming to you from downstairs as my room is not yet ready, but I hope it will be soon because the bike race is early today, and it's the last stage of the race.  I nipped up to check, and when I saw my unmade bed, I grabbed my laptop and came back down.

I had determined to take the metro . . . somewhere, and I figured it couldn't be too bad on Sunday morning.  I chose to go to the Chateau de Vincennes, which was a straight shot on line 1.  The first trick was actually getting to the metro.  Les Halles was locked up tight, but there is an elevator in front of my place, so I took it down.  Underneath the Les Halles area is a gigantic transport hub, and it used to be an underground city with market stalls, but may be the Pandemic cleaned these out?  I feel very sorry for anyone trying to make a transfer from the RER to the Metro at Chatelet-Les Halles.  It's like being in an airport--moving sidewalks and all.  But I found line 1 and got my ticket and got on the train.  A new feature is glass walls separating the voyager from the tracks.  When the train arrives the gates open and one can enter the train.  Line 1 is pretty spiffy.  The cars were clean and the upholstery bright and in good condition.  On some lines the trains are sad looking rattletraps.

Unfortunately the beggars were out in force.  I see a lot of homeless men in my neighborhood, but they just lie around and don't beg.  France, like the rest of the EU has strong social support, and no one ever needs to beg to be homeless, but if they entered the social services, they would have to dry out so . . .

I emerged with the Chateau right in front of me.  Funny.  It was time for the place to be open, but I saw no signs of life.  I finally attracted someones attention and was told rather rudely the Chateau was closed.  Ok, but maybe mention that on the website so we tourists would not make futile trips.  But I was there, and the day was nice, so I decided to walk around.  I circumnavigated the Chateau.  Vincennes is on the edge of Paris and is famous for its parkland.  I got a nice walk in the woods.  The trees are in full leaf, and there were wild flowers and chirping insects and birds.  No traffic noise.  No one smoking.  I did meet Parisians jogging or walking their dogs.  All that green did me good.

Then the metro trip home.  I had to hunt around for a working exit from Les Halles, but I got lucky.  When I emerged I found a street market in full cry.  It was mostly food.  There were a couple of cheese places, fish mongers and butchers offering an astonishing variety of goods.  There were also some Asian food stands, and I confess I was tempted, but right now I have plenty at home.  But I think I need to wait a bit more until I can get back there.

You may wonder why I just don't go to a cafe for a cup of tea or something.  Well, I used to only I would stop for ice cream.  With the Pandemic still on, I don't care to eat or drink in public.  It's helpful renting an apartment for that reason, and I also save money on food and drink.

And I did get back inside in good time for apero and the bike race.

A demain