Starting on the Museums of Naples

Buon Giorno,
I woke up early this morning--and I'm happy to report I've been sleeping at last--to what I thought was thunder.  Then came the sound of pouring rain.  I opened a window so I could hear it.  I wasn't quite ready to get up, so I lay in bed all snug listing to the rain fall.  It continued to fall although more gently as I had my breakfast.
By the time I was ready to go out, it had cleared and warmed up.  Ahh.  The air was so fresh and clean.  This didn't last long what with the motorcycles and cigarettes and all.
Two things I particularly wanted to see are within easy walking distance.  Both were closed yesterday, a fact of which my guide book did not inform me.  Fortunately, I found out before making futile trips.
My first stop was the Diocesan Museum at Donnaregina.  This may sound dull.  It's not! The former convent has a magnificent painted church, with polychrome marble facings.  Apart from the frescos and paintings in the chapels, there's an art gallery with everything from Late Medieval to Baroque. I had the place all to myself.  I wanted to take a zillion pictures, but photography is forbidden.  Google it, and maybe you'll get a look.
From there I walked on to visit Naples's cathedral or Duomo dedicated to San Gennaro.  Devotion to the saint remains strong among the population. Supposedly the blood contained in the relic liquifies each year to assure people he is going to protect them.  But not from motorcycles, evidently.  It's a beautiful church, and I did get to take pictures. Behind the altar is a Virgin Enthroned strongly reminiscent of Bernini.
I snooted around a so-called pedestrianized street.  It was very touristy and also infested with motorcycles and vans.  Enough of that!
I made my way to the National Archeological Museum of Naples--only slightly distracted by the market I came upon in the Piazza Cavour.  Considered the world's greatest museum of antiquities it's justly famous and popular.  I had to wait in line about forty-five minutes to get in.  Here's the drill: People show up and see the line.  They hope that it's some tour group thing and check the entrance.  Nope. It's the line for tickets with addicts having to have that one last cigarette before entry.
Wow!  The collection is amazing.  Now I happen to like antiquities, and I have seen a LOT of them, but I was still impressed beyond measure by the exhibits.
Let's begin with the statuary all of which is in remarkable condition.  Either they were found intact or have been expertly restored, i.e. no missing noses or (ahem) male parts.  Some were familiar, but I came upon a few I had not seen even photos of that were incredible.  I was so taken with a sculpture group of a man capturing a bull surrounded by children and nymphs that I dropped my ticket and had to go back to pick it up.
I needed that ticket because I had a timed entrance to a special exhibition of artifacts from Magna Graecia as the Greeks colonized extensively in the Campania and Bay of Naples.  The vases, paintings, figurines, etc. were fascinating and all in tip top condition.  We visitors had to cover our shoes with paper footies because we were walking on actual mosaics.
I'm going to Pompeii, but I got a preview because the archeologists moved the best of the Fourth Style Roman paintings to the museum.  Fourth Style is meant to mimic encaustic easel paintings for those who needed to keep up with the Metelli next door.  Other goodies from Pompeii include some fabulous mosaics.
Well, I could go on and on, but I get tired, so I've come home to apero.  I really like that Greco Tufo as late afternoon drink, and it goes well with snacks.  I hard cooked some eggs this morning, so I'm having one with the usual crostini and prosciutto crudo.
Yeah, but, Pil.  What about the rest of Naples's culinary offerings?  You're in the pizza capital of the entire galaxy for instance?  What about the pastries. Huh? Huh?
I'm going to be here for a while, and I intend to eat pizza and try a pastry or two.  But tonight we're having pasta, garlic, parmesan, and oil for dinner.  Before I used it last time, I tasted the olive oil straight. It was slightly bitter, and it made me cough, which is a good sign.  I don't buy mass produced oil by the well known companies, and I'm willing to pay a little more.  It usually works out for me.  I'm drinking Lacyrma Christi del Vesuvio with this as I like white wine with garlicky dishes and olive oil.  And for a wonder I got the Aglio et olio to work this time!
Ciao