Saturday, October 26, 2019

Shopping in the Shadow of Vesuvius

Buon Giorno,
There's no getting away from him.  He looms every time I turn around, and let me remind you he is an active volcano.  The last time he erupted in any significant fashion was 1944--as if Mussolini, etc. wasn't enough.  Italian geologists monitor the mountain very closely.  Morbidly curious tourists can take a bus up to view the caldera.  In fact Italy has several active volcanos, and the one most currently active is Etna on the island of Sicily, which erupts frequently (and did one year when I visited Florence.) but fortunately not catastrophically--at least not recently.  The volcanos provide very fertile soil for the famous vineyards of Campania and Sicily, so they attract settlement nearby.
This is my last full day in Naples.  I'm still a bit worn out from my exertions of yesterday, but today was an easy shopping day.  I had a Metro ticket to use up, so I took Line One to a shopping area, but I planned to walk back window licking along the way.  I had to take stairs down in the Metro.  Clearly my knees have not forgiven me for yesterday.
My first stop was the bankomat of my bank's foreign partner.  I have to buy my train ticket tomorrow for one thing. I wound my way down the narrow streets in the supposedly pedestrian zone.  Watch out for the motor cycles and vans.  A lot of tourists come here because the shops and restaurants along with the picturesque streets and buildings attract us.
I did spend some money, but I didn't want to load up too much as I do have to move back to Rome, and I don't want my bags to be heavy.  I might not find kind people willing to heft them for me. But I had a pleasant wander, and it was nice not to be in a hurry or think I had to extend my efforts.
I felt I could not leave the city without trying a sfogliatella, a classic Neapolitan pastry.  The pastry is crisp on the outside and has characteristic thin, leaf-like layers that crackle in a satisfying way when the eater bites into one.  The interior is soft and creamy, filled with ricotta cheese and candied fruit.  Like everything else in Naples, it's delicious and quite extravagant.
And what else would I have for my last evening meal in Naples?  Why Pizza Margherita, of course!  It is so very good.  I love the fragrant chewy crust and the sweet-tart of the tomato sauce made with the locally sourced ingredients,  The simplest meals are often the best when the ingredients are first rate. I always and especially enjoy eating in Italy for that reason, and I must say that Campania and the city do their country proud.  I've actually spent more on wine this trip than I have on food or admissions to museums, and have enjoyed their lush flavors and how they pair so well with the food.  I'll look for wines from Campania wines when I get home, but I fear they will not be the same.
But if you live in or visit the East Coast or any city with a "Little Italy" or can find a pizzeria with a wood fired stove, you can approximate my experience.  To have the real deal, you have to come here--not exactly a hardship.
Naples is definitely a city for extraverts.  If you gain energy from noise, crowds, and activity this is the place for you!  People fill the streets, and they are not all tourists.  They are Neapolitans chatting, haranguing each other, joking, shouting.  Unfortunately they smoke, as well.  And if I never see another motorcycle in my life, I would be best pleased--although the things they can carry and balance on those things is pretty amazing.

2 comments:

  1. I always love your stories, Sandy! I must admit, I'm a little behind on this journey (I have a lot of catching up to do this week), but I'm looking forward to backtracking to your day 1, and taking this journey with you! You will always be my traveling inspiration :)

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    1. Ummm... My post didn't record my name... I'm identified as "unknown", but it's me, LaToya!!! Ha :)

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