Friday, October 25, 2019

Certosa di San Martino and the Long Walk Home

Buon Giorno,
I am utterly shattered and recruiting my forces with some Greco di Tufo and Italian tuna.  I went on a wine and water run this morning before touristing.  It's good to have refreshment at hand.
Let's get the whining out of the way first.  I metroed out to Vanvitelli up on Vomero Hill. I walked to the Certosa di San Martino, enjoyed my visit greatly and walked back to the metro, figuring I'd have an easier day given my exertions yesterday.
The Metro was shut down.
A quick look at my map showed me that if I took funiculars down I could reach a place from which I could walk home pretty easily.
The funiculars were shut down.
No buses in the area could take me where I needed to go.  A few stopped at Metro stations, but they would do me no good.  I decided to start walking and hope to find a bus or even if Line 2 Metro was working it would bring me home.
My map wasn't of big help.  I decided that the crucial direction was down. I followed one street down until it ended and walked across.  Then I came to a stairway.  I took it down and down and down some more.  It seemed endless and held at least three billion stairs (This is a conservative estimate.), and I was so glad that the predicted rain held off because I could picture myself slipping on the slick wet stairs.  Down. More Down.  My knees were screaming at me.  Finally the stairs ran out, but there was a steep street--with lots of traffic, but in the distance I could see the dome of the Galleria Umberto I, which was near to where the funiculars would have taken me.  I knew the way home from there. But I had to get to it first.
In all it took me nearly two hours to get home.  Two hours of hard walking on rough surfaces and then dealing with motorcycles, vans, and crowds.  It's never easy walking in Naples.  But I'm home, and the apero is having its affect.
In the end Certosa di San Martino is a fantastic place to visit.  It was a monastery, but you must not think it austere.  I don't know what the monk's cells were like, but hoo boy, is the place sumptuous!  The ceilings have marvelous frescos, some by Luca Giordano, whose work is prominently scattered throughout the city.  Paintings by Juseppe Ribiera also adorn the church.  He was a follower of Caravaggio, and his use of his master's techniques and sensibilities is particularly powerful.  His Pieta is the altarpiece, but a very fine St. Sebastien is also displayed.
Don't miss the royal coaches!  Or the Nativity scenes.  Depicting the Nativity with figurines and a naturalistic setting is a Neapolitan art form.  The gem of the collection is by Michele Cucineniello with over four hundred figures.  It's a bit difficult to find Baby Jesus in that crowd, but it is really incredible and compelling.
And then the terraces provide fantastic views of the city, the Bay of Naples, and Vesuvius (because there's no getting away from him!).  I enjoyed the views little knowing that I would soon be climbing down that way.
Cats may be a feature of Vomero.  I guess they live in the museum, looking well cared for and certainly tame.  A few were very hungry for human attention, so I had a duty to oblige.
When you travel--and I hope you will, ALWAYS carry a pack of tissue with you.  Not all toilets renew the toilet paper regularly.  You will have the need and the means if you follow this vital advice.
Ciao

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