Wandering Around Trastavere

Ciao
My wanderings were anchored by two old and venerable churches.
I began my day with a trip to the grocery store, because it's Gnocchi Thursday!
Then I wended my way to the metro station, a longish but easy walk and I took Line A to Termini and then transferred to Line B to go to Circo Massimo.  This stop provides truth in advertising as the site of the Circus Maximus is right there, but there's nothing to it so walk on as I did.
I was after Santa Sabina a beautifully preserved example of a fifth century basilica.  Other old churches have been messed about with--notably during the Catholic Reformation Baroque Period.  Santa Sabina in contrast has a purer, more austere look from the preservation of its original structure and exterior.  Having visited this church I can claim another Roman Hill--the Aventine as the church was built on the site of a Temple of Juno at its summit.
Then I strolled about in Testaccio. The area is named for the pile of broken ceramic shards discarded for generations by ancient Romans.  The pile became Rome's eighth hill, but now the ceramic has been weathered and it's covered in grass.  You can visit the original, but you'd have to take a guided tour, and frankly there are more fun things to see in Rome.
I crossed the river to Trastevere.  Everyone says come here because it is a traditional Roman neighborhood and so charming.  This is true.  I had a delightful stroll down narrow, pedestrianized streets and through pretty piazzas.  But when charming places attract tourists--well the touristification is inevitable.  Here's an example.  Immigrants sweep the sidewalks and make little piles of debris.  They expect tips for their "service."  Ignore them.  You will also find plenty of places to have a snack or meal and a lot of intriguing shops to entice you to spend your tourist dollar or euro as may be.
I fetched up at Santa Maria in Trastevere.  Its famous facade was undergoing preservation, but the church was open and is well worth a visit.  The basilica dates from the fourth century and is the oldest church in Rome dedicated to the Virgin Mary.  They did her proud including twenty-one columns taken from the Baths of Caracalla.  However did they move them?  Don't miss the stunning Medieval mosaics in the apse.
I walked along the Tiber for quite a while.  Then I took it into my head to hop on a bus.  I know, but sometimes I like to live dangerously.  Not that dangerously because the bus I got on was clearly labeled Termini and I had a very scenic ride past a lot of places I'd already been.  I hopped off at the station and had a quick look around the shopping center there.  Don't tell but the station shopping center is better than my new local--except for that excellent grocery store.
You can have your gnocchi with any kind of sauce.  I just really really really liked it with pesto, and then a generous helping of parmesan.  It's so good!