The Vatican Museums

Ciao!
Europeans frequently pull their vehicles up onto sidewalks, and I encounter this every day on my walk to and from the metro.  I either have to cross the street or walk in it.  This afternoon, I had just stepped into the street when I met an older woman who just done the same.  She spoke to me, and I was about to go into my "Sono tourista" act when I realized I understood what she said, so I laughed and agreed.  She said something like, "We have to walk in the street because the trucks take up the sidewalk."  Expression and gesture contributed to my understanding.
I got a good night's sleep--finally--but I am still shattered.  The Vatican Museums were an intense experience.  I am glad I waited because I don't think I could have done all of them the day after I arrived.  I booked a fairly early time thinking that it would be less crowded.  I was mistaken.
You simply cannot be spontaneous about visiting the Vatican. You Must Book Ahead. (And do it before you leave or have your hotel reception do it. Avoid the touts because you'll pay three times the price). The line for the poor saps who fail to do this is always insane.  It's like the line for Anne Frank's House in Amsterdam.  It goes on forever.  You can take guided tours, but I would advise getting an audioguide instead because you have more control over what you see and when. You might not want to visit that Etruscan Museum I was so keen on.  I also want to say that the Vatican Museums are a true bargain even with the advance booking fee.  You get admission to ALL of them, and each separately could command an entry fee of at least twelve euros.
I did not have to wait at all.  I went through security and traded my voucher for a ticket, and I was launched.  I first when into the Pinotecca, which is the museum for paintings.  After the crowds at the entrance I was glad to be in a quieter place.  The other visitors rushed through it so I got to examine works at my leisure.  I had Raphael's Transfiguration and his other works all to myself!  Not to mention other distinguished works by great artists, but the truth is I came to Rome for Raphael.
The buildings themselves are beautiful and are packed to the brim with antiquities and other art treasures. Inevitably I got mixed in with a bunch of tour groups.  I heard complaints that the guide was inaudible or incomprehensible.  Most people were paying no attention to the guide anyway. I don't think the visitors knew what they were looking at.  They had their phones out and were taking photos of everything they came across.
Of course the Big Thing everyone comes to see is the Sistine Chapel, and it was wonderful to see it in person even in the midst of the crowd.  I think I got a good look at the ceiling and the Last Judgment.
I also loved the frescos by Raphael in the papal apartments.  The School of Athens is one of my favorite paintings, so I was delighted to see it up close.
I also made sure I saw the Apollo Belvedre and Laoccon, but the Vatican Collection is so rich, it's overwhelming even for me.  After nearly three hours I was arted out and tired from walking and climbing up and down all those stairs.  I walked through the Piazza and took some photos and went off to Castel Saint' Angelo.
It's on the Tiber and looks a big like a coil.  Hadrian built it for his tomb, but it looked so fortress-like the popes took it over as a refuge in their many times of trouble.  There's a military museum inside but I wasn't interested.  I just liked walking around especially since the barrel vaulted ramp was cool and dark.
Then I strolled through the city to the metro stop Lepanto and came home a bit early all stiff and tired.  I believe I have earned an aperitivo.  I'm having some tuna and olives with Prosecco.
Let's talk about olive oil--the extra virgin kind.  I happen to love it, and fortunately where I live I can find some pretty good stuff.  But in my Italian grocery store, I looked for DOP oil or bottles with harvest dates and other indications of quality, and did not find any.  Still I think I got a nice bottle.  It's organic, and when I tasted the oil, I got the catch in the back of my throat that indicates the presence of those much desired polyphenols.  So I have no hesitation in drizzling or dousing my food.  Today I am having a simple, classic dish of capellelini laced liberally with garlic, oil, and a bit of salt. It's one of my favorite ways to have pasta, and it is traditional in Rome.