Roman Gardens

Ciao!
Oof it is hot today.  Fortunately I'm cooling off with my aperitivo of olives, nuts, and Prosecco.  Most refreshing after a day of pounding Roman pavement and cobbles.
The post title says "gardens," Pil.
I'll get there.
My neighbors were out partying. I know this because they came back late (or very early depending on your point of view) and loud.  Our rooms are set around a courtyard, which is very pretty, but then one can hear every coming and going and conversations.
I had an excellent plan for the day, which didn't work out as anticipated, but everything went fine, and I saw what I wanted to see and got done what needed to be done.
I began with a metro trip out to San Giovanni.  St. John Lateran is the oldest church in Rome founded by Constantine who confiscated the land from a pagan named Lateranus and gave the structure to the Pope. It is in fact the seat of the Bishop of Rome, i.e. Pope Francis, and the Cathedral of the City.  St. Peter's is more universal--shall I say catholic?--but St. John Lateran is specifically Rome's mother church.  It's been baroquitized to a very large extent.  The church is a basilica with a double aisle. It's gorgeous, but few traces of Early Christianity remain.  I admired some mosaics in the apse.
On my way to and from, I said ciao to the Aurelian Walls built by my favorite emperor from Late Antiquity.  Aurelian knew how to defeat imperial rivals and barbarians, too, and he put a divided empire back together.
I am not a grudge holder.  I was willing to give Villa Medici another chance.  The idea was for me to get my ticket for the tour and then take the metro and go to the atm from my bank's foreign partner, then scamper back for the tour.  This plan was contingent on the lift from Spagna Metro working.  It was not open.  I had to climb the Spanish Steps all the way to the top.  Fortunately since I've been here a week I am pretty fit.  I was afraid that the tour spots would be filled, so I got my ticket early and then had to hang around. As it happened there were only three of us on the tour, and it was the garden only as the palazzo was hosting an event.  This was actually ok with me because I figured I'd seen enough palazzos for the moment, and the garden tour was great.  Our guide was a charming French Art Historian named Lucy, and our tight little group soon bonded, and we chatted freely.  The Medici Gardens are formal and, of course, full of symbolism. We even spotted the white rabbit "Fernando" who lives in the grounds.
Then I made my way down the Pinician Hill and crossed Piazza del Populo to Via Flaminia.  I walked for what seemed to be a long time.  My target was the Museo Nationale Etrusco di Villa Guilia.  Now I realize not everyone shares my fascination with the Etruscans, but this is a very worthwhile museum.  The building is beautiful and is set in lovely gardens with plenty of places to sit and relax--something I needed by that time. I got into a conversation about the enchanting Sarcofago degli Sposi with an Englishman who in my opinion had a very posh accent.  He saw me photographing it, and we admired it together.  Don't get ideas.  He was there with his wife.
I also like Greek Vases from various periods and the Etruscan bronzes and works in terracotta, but the other highlight for me was Apollo of Veii.  How fun to see him in person.  Then I strolled about in the gardens and made friends with a cat.  I guess Rome has lots of cats.  I see them everywhere.
But it was hot, and I was tired, yet I still had one more chore.  Remember my plan to hit the atm?  I got off the metro at Ottaviano and went to that one instead of Via de Corso.  Then I walked back, got on the metro, and made my weary way home.
And since it's Thursday, that means gnocchi!  Gently cooked and served with pesto and some sprinkled parmesan, this dish is divine and so easy.