Monday, April 23, 2018
Tivoli: Hadrian's Villa
Ciao!
Since it's Monday, I needed a special activity, and I discovered that Hadrian's Villa is open on Monday. It took some doing to get there, but the trip (and its attendant bus hassles) was worth it.
I got a new metro pass and also provided myself with the proper bus tickets at my local shop. I took a longish metro ride out. I had to transfer to Line B and since I was going to nearly the end of the line, I had to be careful of which train I took as the line branches.
I hopped off the train and was able to go directly to the bus stop as I had already bought my tickets. I did not have long to wait. The bus came, and I got on. About an hour's ride through uninteresting suburbs brought me to Tivoli. I was not sure where to get off, but I alighted when most others did. This was the correct choice. Then I bought my tickets for the bus to Hadrian's Villa and asked about the stop. The Proprietor escorted me across the street and consulted with someone and then told me where to go. He was wrong, but his heart was in the right place.
I went to the stop, but then a kindly woman explained to me in Italian that my waiting there was futile. I understood that much. No bus would stop there, but I was less clear about her instructions to the correct stop. I understand a little Italian--but seriously not much. I went. I looked. Couldn't figure it out. I asked people. No one knew. Then I spotted a Tourist Information kiosk. She had the straight scoop, which I realized when I saw the bus I wanted pulling away from the stop. I am getting good at just missing busses.
The next bus showed up about twenty minutes later, and a bunch of us piled on. We were decanted at the entrance to the villa and lined up to get our tickets. The site is huge, and a lot of the villa remains unexcavated, but I have to pronounce these the most impressive ruins I have seen in a trip replete with monumental Roman remains. The villa in its heyday must have been magnificent. Hadrian was one of the Five Good Emperors. His family hailed from Spain, but he was immersed in Greek culture and was a notable builder. He has his own wall up in Northern England, and he also inspired the Pantheon. Although he was a Stoic, he had a keen sense of beauty, so the villa he designed must have been truly lovely and harmonious.
The site is well sign posted and apart from ruins, is like all these places, beautiful. My guide book warned visitors with pollen allergies to take their meds before coming. The place is carpeted in wild flowers! One of my favorite experiences at the Villa was walking through a grove of olive trees. Seeing the sunlight filtering through their silvery leaves was a magical experience.
Then back to the bus stop. I'd provided myself with return tickets, so no worries there, but the bus did not show up. Of course, one did eventually because I'm here after all. I am indebted as well for the return trip to Rome to an intrepid Italian woman who chased down the bus, pounded on the door, and scolded the driver, who evidently thought he had no passengers to pick up.
I am enjoying my dinner of tortellone with garlic and luscious olive oil topped with a generous sprinkling of parmesan. So Very Good!
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These bus adventures somehow sound so Italian!
ReplyDeleteHadrian's villa sounds awesome.
Awesome is the right word for Hadrian's Villa. I don't know what to say about the busses. I just don't do well with them.
ReplyDelete