Monday, April 16, 2018

Ancient Rome Ground Zero: The Forum and the Palatine


Ciao!
My aperitivo includes tuna crostini.  I felt I needed some extra protein. I certainly burned calories today as I walked constantly up and down hill.  I have done three out of the Seven Hills:  Capitoline, Palatine, and Esquiline.
Monday in Rome can be problematical.  Almost all museums are closed.  An exception is the Vatican Museums, which close for obvious reasons on Sunday instead.  Most tourists go there.  The other choice is the heart of the Ancient City, and that's where I went today.  Rain was in the forecast, but the day was fine and very warm, so it was good climbing around weather.
I just said no to the Flavian Amphitheatre and made my way to the Forum entrance. The Forum and Palatine Hill are in fact one huge and fascinating site.  Mind, you have to like ruins to appreciate it all.  I happen to, and the older the better in my opinion.  If you like there are guided tours or you can rent an audio guide. The Forum was Rome's administrative, religious, and social center.  The Palatine Hill was the posh neighborhood full of patricians and royalty.  Our word palace comes from it.
In fact the Romans built to last, and the reason why these once magnificent buildings are in bad shape is that human beings--er--repurposed--the material from which they were made to construct other things.  "Ooh, look!  Marble. Let's take some home with us."  That sort of thing.
I thought it was going to be crowded, but the site is so big I did not mind the other people.  I also have to say that the archeological park is beautiful.  Italy in the spring is lush and green, and there is plenty of foliage, plus olive groves and blossoming trees to see when you tire of stone.  The views from the Palatine are spectacular.  I was disappointed that the on-site museum was closed though.  It was a good way to spend the morning.  I got history, fresh air, and exercise.
I went back one metro stop because I discovered that two must-see churches were nearby.  Well, I got to see one of them anyway.  Santa Maria Maggiore (the large church dedicated to the Virgin) dates to the mid Fourth Century making it one of the oldest churches in Rome. It's a basilica.  I didn't have much trouble finding it although I had to climb Esquiline Hill, and to get inside I had to go through some major security.  The exterior has been messed about with to a large extent with a lot of Baroque accretions. Never mind that.  We're here for the nave.  The church is gorgeous!  It glitters with mosaics and is replete with marble, gilt, and paintings.  No wonder Gian Lorenzo Bernini chose to be buried here.  He rests in Exuberance.
My next stop was St. Pietro in Vincoli because that's where Michelangelo's Moses is.  Wow, Rome has a lot of churches.  I saw at least four that weren't St. Pietro. I wandered a long time, but I finally found it after climbing a gazillion stairs.  It was closed.  Yeah, but I know where it is now, so I can return.
Before we get to dinner, let's review escalator etiquette, shall we?  Stand on the right, people.  Unless you intend to climb.  For reasons that escape my understanding some people need to rush so they use the escalator more or less as a stairway.   Escalator etiquette is especially important if you ever visit London as some daring souls hurl themselves down the steep moving stairs in a manner I regard as near suicidal.  You do not want to be in their way.  Rome isn't that bad, but come on, be polite.
You said the word dinner, Pil.  What's it to be?  More pasta?
I'll branch out eventually, but yes, ravioli is on the menu.  I went to the grocery store this morning.  I am sticking with the brand of Prosecco because it's cheap, and I like it a lot, but I am trying different wines from this area. If you are in Italy trying a food product look for or ask about DOP.  It's a guarantee that the product is made traditionally and meets certain standards of quality.  It does not necessarily, but may, mean expensive. I won't buy wine that does not have this designation, but I am notorious for getting cheap wine. This evening's tipple is from Orvieto.  Mmm, and very nice it is, too.
Ravioli comes doused in garlic and olive oil with a generous sprinkle of parmesan.  So Good!

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