Sunday, April 15, 2018

Fun Times Around Piazza Venezia


Ciao!
I was called "bella" a couple of times today only it was by touts looking to sell me some overpriced tickets.  Apparently this is how they attract gullible old ladies.  I was not taken in.
I am still jet lagged mostly in the sense that my sleep cycle is still out of wack, but I am more functional each day.  I had a good big day today.  And I did not get lost once!  Although I have to confess I am terrified each time I have to cross the street with just a crosswalk and no traffic light.  The cars don't want to hit pedestrians, but they don't exactly stop for us either.
I booked my tickets for the Vatican Museums for next Tuesday with the help of the nice young man in Reception, who also told me how to get to today's destination and advised me to my relief to avoid busses today.
I had to change Metro lines at Termini Station.  I almost got on the wrong train but caught myself in time, so I had a quick trip out to the Colosseo stop where I popped out right in the face of the world-renowned Flavian Amphitheatre.  It was a zoo featuring tourist hordes, ticket touts, immigrants trying to sell selfie sticks, street entertainers, guys in legionary outfits.  Fortunately I could pass it all by at least I could today.
My target was Piazza Venezia where I lighted upon the Palazzo Venezia, a Renaissance gem constructed by a cardinal from where else--Venice--who later became a pope.  The building and gardens are fabulous.  The art within is ok, but my visit was enlivened by the attentions of some eager young docents.  They were charmingly forward in wanting to enrich my visit as much as possible, so naturally I encouraged them with questions and conversation.  Delightful.  My guess is that these are student volunteers who are training to work in museums.
I got directions to my next target, which has been long desired.  The Pantheon!  It was an easy walk.  There's a big old long line to get in, but it moves very fast and the site is free.  I was mostly there to pay my respects to Raphael who is buried there along with King Victor Emmanuel II, but I admired the marble facing and the amazing dome.  The oculus is much larger than I thought it was.  Of course, the place was packed.  There are a lot of snack bars, etc. around there but also a lot of beggars.
Then I went back to climb the Capitoline Hill to the Piazza Campidoglio a beautiful space designed by Michelangelo.  Two museums face each other across the square featuring a copy of the equestrian portrait of Emperor Marcus Aurelius.  The real one is inside one of the museums so don't bother with the fake.  Ok.  I said two museums, but they really are one connected by an underground passage.  The reason to come here is the antiquities.  There's Mama Capitoline Wolf (just ignore the kids) the Colossal Constantine, and the Dying Gaul. There are other cool things as well, so it's worth making the climb.
As I write I am enjoying my Prosecco and aperitivo snack, which is a crostini with prosciutto.  I have having a small snack because I intend to pig out on--er--have the Cultural Experience of Pasta Cacio e pepe, which is a classic Roman recipe that I can get to work once in a while.  There are RULES about pasta, and if the Italians knew what I was up to I'd probably be arrested.  You are supposed to salt the water.  I can't be bothered.  I use too small a pan because I'm a Southern Californian and refuse to waste water.  I use enough water because the pasta can move around, but no Italian would be satisfied. [And I found out that Kenji Lopez-Alt agrees with this.  So There!] I also cook my pasta a little past al dente.  I don't like mushy pasta--bleck! but I want it cooked through.  I also don't make Cacio e Pepe correctly because I add a dash of garlic powder and some olive oil.  I also use capellini because I get hungry and it cooks faster than the thicker strands of pasta that are more authentic.  The point of Italian Cuisine is simple dishes made sublime with the best ingredients.  These are easily obtained in Italy.  Elsewhere?  Maybe.
So the dish is good even if your cheese clumps as mine does all too often.

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