Arrivederci, Roma.

It's not goodbye, but see you later, because I do intend to return.
Ciao!
It has been an intense three weeks, and I am tired.  I will leave tomorrow morning--sadly.  I went shopping today, and sniffed a lot of soap.  Nice, but not good blog material.
Rome has been a challenging city for me.  It's not the language barrier.  That hardly exists.  A lot of people speak English, and they have a helpful attitude.  I can put my finger on two things that made Rome an interesting and worthwhile challenge.  First, there is So Much.  Do you want history, art, food, drink?  It's all on offer in overwhelming abundance.  The city has an energy to it--a vigor.  Don't think laid back Italians.  I didn't see any.
I was fortunate to be able to stay, and I got to see most of what I wanted and some things I didn't know I wanted to see.  What I missed out on were sites that had to be booked in advance.  I just couldn't get myself together to schedule the visits.  Next time.
The other thing is transportation.  Other European Capitals have extensive metros or trams.  The visitor can easily get where she wants to go or very nearby. Rome has two lines and is working on a third.  The issue is that every time a hole is dug in Rome, the likelihood is that some potentially valuable hunk of antiquity will be turned up.  And the busses are confusing and really not made for tourists although they can be useful.  I made a habit of trying to figure out the nearest metro to what I wanted to see and then I'd plot a route.  I got a lot of exercise that way.
I also got to follow my Mediterranean Diet otherwise known as stuffing down mountains of pasta and pizza and using olive oil and parmesan with abandon.
Didn't you get tired of pasta, Pil?  You ate so much of it.
Nope.  I don't get tired of ruins either.
And the indulgence of my daily aperitivi.  What a lovely custom, but since I am not nearly as active at home as I am on trips, I won't follow it often.  But I had lush olives, savory prosciutto on crostini, creamy cheese, and Prosecco every day.  I drink it at home, but--ha ha--NOT everyday.  Also in Italy what I found in the stores is "extra dry," which is slightly sweeter than the brut commonly found in the United States.  Because Americans have theirs with dinner and the sweeter wine makes a better aperitivo?  I don't know.
I went to the big supermarket this morning and got some things to bring home, so I can continue eating Italian.  I got some tried borlotti beans and some farro, which is a traditional kind of grain that is enjoying a revival.  I also got a package of very tiny farfelle (known as bowties in the U.S.) which are just so cute. The teensy pasta is for soup.  I'll make good use of it.
Let's talk about lipstick.
Kinda random, Pil.
Well, I couldn't help notice that most Italian women were following the matte lipstick trend.  Now because of my age, I don't think it's for me, and anyway it's a hard look to pull off for anyone.  I have seen it look very pretty even on older women.  The key seems to be avoiding bright or dark shades and going with something soft and subtle, but avoiding chalkiness.  Chalky lips look like the Zombie Apocalypse.
I have gotten a lot of traffic on the blog for this trip.  Muchas gracias to the readers in Peru and Chile.  I don't think I have had readers from South America before.  But I appreciate everyone who takes the trouble to read, and I hope you are feeling inspired.  Maybe relax with your friends and family with an aperitivo?
And for our ultimo cena in Italy for now--pasta!  It's a huge bowl of angel hair dressed with garlic, olive oil and parmesan accompanied with the last of the Orvieto.  Divine!

Grazi, Amici!

Aqueducts! And a Sweltering Walk in an Archeological Park

Ciao!
It was a relief to get home and out of the heat.  I have had two glasses of water, and now I am ready to enjoy my aperitivo and talk to you.
While doing some research this morning I happened upon information on the Park of the Aqueduct.  Although this is not on the normal tourist radar it is easily accessible by metro and even on my own Line A.  I've seen plenty of ruins--but the remains of an aqueduct?  Well, it sounded good to me.
Having consulted google maps, I set off and alighted at the proper stop.  Now my instincts were correct, and I set off in the right direction.  But google maps, as sometimes happens, screwed up.  I was given to understand that the park was two minutes walk away and would be right there in front of me.  When this did not occur, I turned around and tried other directions.  Nada.  Although I noticed that a lot of businesses were open out there in the suburbs.  I went back to the metro stop hoping for a a sign or map or something.  I did find a map, so I set out again.  I was about to give up when I spotted--an aqueduct!  Yay!  And it's amazing to find so much open space in Rome.  The park is quite large with a lot of paths, and today I shared it with bikers, picnickers, and joggers as well as folks walking their dogs.  I was able to get pretty close to one of the sections of aqueduct, so that was cool. The Romans were first rate engineers, and their water delivery system still amazes.  They brought water down from higher elevations--usually a lake at a steady downward gradient, and if the stream had to go through a mountain or cross a valley or river, the Romans would excavate and also build the spectacular arcaded platforms to carry water.  Some of the aqueducts--although much restored and repaired--are still in use!
Then I took the metro back a few stops to explore another archeological park, the Caffarella.  This time I found it easily, but also by this time the afternoon had turned very hot and humid.  Once again this is a huge open space nearish the city center and is part of the Via Appia Antica complex.  The old Via Latina runs alongside it, and there are many ruins, but they are spread out.  I came upon only one.  There are lakes, too, but I didn't get that far.  Once again this green space is used and appreciated by the Roman public.  There were a fair number of people there, but as far as I could tell, I was the only foreign tourist.  A lot of paths run here and there.  A fence is supposed to keep people out of unsafe places, but the Romans have torn holes in it.  I did not venture through them although I might have done for the sake of a tasty ruin.
I got to see a couple of nice "real people" neighborhoods in Rome and see weekend life going on as well as experiencing some history, so it was a pleasant, balanced day.
I have left over gnocchi I need to use up, so even though it's not Thursday that's what I'm having--with pesto--so good!  And of course extra parmesan.  Shall we have a bite of a tiny, tender potato dumpling enriched with pesto sauce and parm?  It's fast, easy, and one of my favorite dishes I've had here.  And let's not forget a sip of chilled Orvieto Classico.  I think it's my favorite of the local wines I've tried, and I'm pretty sure I've seen it in the USA should you decide to test my taste.

Forum of Trajan and Galleria Colonna

Ciao,
I didn't have firm plans for today except I knew it would be hot and I would want apericena.  I had an idea of where I wanted to go in the city, and some about two and a half weeks, I think I am finally getting to know the place and feel more comfortable and confident.  Anyway the sites I saw provided more than I expected and so were a extra pleasure
I got out at Metro Barbarini having plotted my route.  I made my way toward Trevi Fountain--which truly is magnificent, but I don't get why tourists think they need to make a special effort to get there.  The piazza was packed, and about half the crowd was touts.
My desired street, or so my map claimed ran right out of the piazza.  I looked. I tried every single outlook.  Nope.  Then I decided to pretend that one likely looking street of a different name was the one I wanted.  Experience in many European cities has taught me that streets can change names often several times.  I walked.  Nope.  Walked some more.  Still no.  Then the street opened up into a piazza that was labeled with the name I wanted and the street was called that from then on.  I passed the Galleria Colonna.  I noted the location for later and went on.  I was looking for a Roman site, but I could not find it.  Feeling frustrated, I decided to visit the Forum of Trajan, which was right there in front of me.  Good choice, Pil.
I was annoyed at the high price of admission, but in fact the site is much larger than I realized, and the exhibits are well displayed and marked.  I did not realize it but the inside part of the museum where the visitor begins is the top story of Trajan's famous hemicycle.  The route takes one down floor by floor until one reaches the level of the forum itself.  There's nothing especially distinguished about the fragments of statuary (except for some panels from the Column of Trajan, which are incredible) and inscriptions on display, but there are a lot of videos and models, so I ended up with a good idea of what the place had been like.  Roman Emperors made a point of investing in public places for their citizens, and the Forum offered a lot of amenities but mostly was an administrative center.  I spent a couple of hours there.
Then I went back to the Galleria Colonna.  My guidebook gave me to understand that while the offerings were good, there wasn't that much to see.  My guidebook was wrong.  While not as extensive as some other palazzos I have visited, the Galleria Colonna is exceedingly richly decorated.  The ceiling and wall frescos are magnificent--surely the equal of those I saw at Villa d'Este, and there is a nice collection of Renaissance and Baroque Art.  The gem of the collection is acknowledged to be Annibale Carracci's The Bean Eater.  It is an uncharacteristic work of a peasant eating beans, but its rough style is so direct and vivid.  His other work is mostly gods and goddesses and fancy frescoes.
I realized I was out of money, but I remembered my bank had a branch nearby.  It was one of those ones where the atms are inside, but you can insert your bank card to get it.  This worked for me!
Then feeling pretty cocky, I got on a bus.  Ha ha.  I went to Termini again because there is a branch of the food emporium EatItaly nearby.  I was just scouting.  I didn't get anything, but there is some nice stuff there, and you could also order food and drink to consume on their pleasant terrace.
Some of my apericena is left over pizza.  It's still great even washed down with Prosecco this time.

Tivoli: Villa d'Este

Ciao!
Three words for the Villa d'Este--Oh. My. God.
It is possible to visit both Hadrian's Villa and the Villa d'Este in Tivoli in one go, and in my younger days I would have, and tours are offered from Rome that cover both sites.  Maybe you don't share my taste for ruins, but Tivoli is a great day trip and the Villa d'Este easy to visit (no shuttle busses are involved) and well worth seeing.
Having obtained my bus tickets and metroed out to Ponte Mammalo, I boarded the bus with much more confidence.  I knew where to get off and where to get the bus back. I knew where Tourist Information was should I need any.  I didn't.  The Villa is well sign posted and about five minutes walk from the bus stop.  They are doing some restoration work, I guess, because the entrance was awfully discreet for such a well known site.
The place used to be a monastery then a cardinal got a hold of it and turned it into a summer retreat.  Eventually the place was acquired and embellished by another cardinal of the Este Family of Ferrara.  This bunch is good at luxurious buildings.  The palazzo part seems nicely liveable. There were no period rooms, but the ceilings and walls are richly and beautifully frescoed in Renaissance Fashion, so a lot of allegories and classical references.
The Real Deal are the gardens!  They slope down the hill in a series of terraces.  The gardens are in the Italian Style so they are rather formal and short on flowers, but oh my. The Fountains!  These are the most spectacular fountains I have ever seen--and yes, I have been to Versailles.  A fountain sprouts on nearly every corner of every path.  The garden is adorned with statues and grottos as well.  It was a very refreshing experience on a hot, humid day.
I had enough time and energy left to walk around Tivoli's historic center.  Remember Trastevere?  Well, Tivoli is the same.  It's a delightful place to wander with narrow, cobbled, pedestrianized streets and also very very touristy. On the other hand plenty of locals were around walking and greeting their friends and chatting, so it seemed like a real life place, too.
I had a smooth trip back and stopped at Cipro Metro for pizza, which I am now enjoying with beer.  I tried a supplizi which is the Roman version of aranicini from Sicily.  One makes risotto and then rice balls stuffed with something tasty and then deep fries them.  One is just a bit smaller than my fist, but then I have small hands.  Very good!
One of the cooks brought out a fresh Margharita as I was ordering, so I couldn't resist that, but I got a different kind that has faba beans (I guess) and some very salty bacon-like substance.  It's divine.  Likewise the Margherita.  I got a different kind of beer this time, and I like it lots better than the one I had last time.  It's the perfect way to spend a late Friday afternoon.
I want to be a cardinal.  I look great in red and deserve to be addressed as "Your Eminence."  I would do really well living in a luxury villa with fabulous gardens. Maybe Pope Francis will waive the current gender requirement, but the fact that I'm a Protestant is not going to be got over is it.  Bummer.  I'll eat more pizza to cheer myself up.

Wandering Around Trastavere

Ciao
My wanderings were anchored by two old and venerable churches.
I began my day with a trip to the grocery store, because it's Gnocchi Thursday!
Then I wended my way to the metro station, a longish but easy walk and I took Line A to Termini and then transferred to Line B to go to Circo Massimo.  This stop provides truth in advertising as the site of the Circus Maximus is right there, but there's nothing to it so walk on as I did.
I was after Santa Sabina a beautifully preserved example of a fifth century basilica.  Other old churches have been messed about with--notably during the Catholic Reformation Baroque Period.  Santa Sabina in contrast has a purer, more austere look from the preservation of its original structure and exterior.  Having visited this church I can claim another Roman Hill--the Aventine as the church was built on the site of a Temple of Juno at its summit.
Then I strolled about in Testaccio. The area is named for the pile of broken ceramic shards discarded for generations by ancient Romans.  The pile became Rome's eighth hill, but now the ceramic has been weathered and it's covered in grass.  You can visit the original, but you'd have to take a guided tour, and frankly there are more fun things to see in Rome.
I crossed the river to Trastevere.  Everyone says come here because it is a traditional Roman neighborhood and so charming.  This is true.  I had a delightful stroll down narrow, pedestrianized streets and through pretty piazzas.  But when charming places attract tourists--well the touristification is inevitable.  Here's an example.  Immigrants sweep the sidewalks and make little piles of debris.  They expect tips for their "service."  Ignore them.  You will also find plenty of places to have a snack or meal and a lot of intriguing shops to entice you to spend your tourist dollar or euro as may be.
I fetched up at Santa Maria in Trastevere.  Its famous facade was undergoing preservation, but the church was open and is well worth a visit.  The basilica dates from the fourth century and is the oldest church in Rome dedicated to the Virgin Mary.  They did her proud including twenty-one columns taken from the Baths of Caracalla.  However did they move them?  Don't miss the stunning Medieval mosaics in the apse.
I walked along the Tiber for quite a while.  Then I took it into my head to hop on a bus.  I know, but sometimes I like to live dangerously.  Not that dangerously because the bus I got on was clearly labeled Termini and I had a very scenic ride past a lot of places I'd already been.  I hopped off at the station and had a quick look around the shopping center there.  Don't tell but the station shopping center is better than my new local--except for that excellent grocery store.
You can have your gnocchi with any kind of sauce.  I just really really really liked it with pesto, and then a generous helping of parmesan.  It's so good!

Acqua Romana

Ciao!
Have you ever made tea with sparking water?  It's a surreal experience let me tell you.
Pil, why would you want to do that?
Because I had to if I wanted tea this morning.  The water in this whole neighborhood is off.  Not a drop comes out of any faucet for blocks around.  There's a fountain of sorts on the street in front of my hotel.  I call it a fountain; it's more of a perpetually running stream of water out of a spigot--a shock to my Southern California heart, such a waste.  Well, I thought, if the water is off in my room, I can get it out there.  Nothing doing.  That's how I guessed it was a bigger issue, and the proprietor, who is now frantically making phone calls, confirmed this.
So I have had breakfast, and the tea was fine.  I used water I had in my refrigerator, but because the water sparkled it bubbled the whole time it was heating looking boiling but not being.  When it did boil the bubbles all boiled away.  I also managed to brush my teeth.  I can put my contact lenses in, but unless the water comes back on my poor face will not be washed.
I am not going to hang around here all day though.
But you'll cope no matter what?
I'm a traveler--with a pilgrim soul, so yes, I'll cope.
Nevertheless, I was glad when I came home to see the perpetually running fountain going.  I checked in the proprietor who when I last saw her this morning looked like she didn't know whether to scream or cry.  We had a nice chat, and I was especially pleased when she praised my complexion.  I was looking a bit rosy from the heat.
It may not be illegal to come to Italy and not have gelato, but it is rude, and I never want to be one of Those Americans.  So after my day of touristing since it was hot I popped out of the metro at Ottaviano and went in search of some refreshment.  Gelato is ubiquitous in Rome, but this place has the reputation of being one of the best if not the best.  It's called Fata Morgana.  I got there at the right time because there was no line.  I had nocchiola (hazelnut.  I remember my first celestial taste of gelato in Florence was hazelnut. It's still among my favorites.) something called snow white (vanilla with raspberry jam swirls), and chestnut myrtle.  All were scrumptiously fabulous.  The place is famous for having unusual flavors.   I'll have to be more daring next time.
I went out on the metro to see St. Paul Outside the Walls--San Paolo Fuori le Mura for you Italians.  It supposedly marks the place where the Apostle Paul was martyred traditionally in the reign of Nero by beheading with a sword, a privilege he was accorded as a Roman Citizen.
I was overwhelmed.  The church is huge and awe inspiring.  The original structure dates to the time of Constantine, but the church burned and was reconstructed in the nineteenth century.  They did a great job!  Some early mosaics and a transverse arch survived.
One intriguing feature is the series of papal portraits starting with Peter.  All of the early and Medieval ones are made up, but you start to see real likenesses during the Renaissance.  The last one is Francesco, of course.  I counted. There are six more spaces available.  The story is that when they run out, the world will end.
Then I strolled down the street to the Museo Capitoline Centrale Montemartini.  A friend recommended this to me as it otherwise would not have been on my radar.  It holds the overflow from the Capitoline Museums, but you must not imagine second rate rejects.  There are some wonderful pieces here, some like those marvelous mosaics because they couldn't fit in a the smaller space.  Apart from Roman and Hellenistic, there are some Egyptian and Etruscan works as well.
I brought home some water just in case, but I'm glad we are back to normal, and I can have a shower.
The wine I am having with my tortellone is Frascati another notable white wine from Lazio.  I like the whites much better than the red I tried, and all of them I've tried are inexpensive.  Frascati was once the favorite of Queen Victoria.  Shall we have a sip and see what the fuss is about?  It's very nice and tastes something like Sauvignon Blanc.  I am assuming Her Majesty did not get her bots from the bottom shelf though.

Ostia Antica--Ancient Rome's Port

Ciao!
Let me settle into my aperitivo.  It was a good day.  I did not have to take a single bus!
Had the Archeological Park of Ancient Ostia been open yesterday, I would have gone.  It's much easier to get to than Hadrian's Villa.  The ruins aren't as magnificent, but there's a whole city to explore.
Do you not get tired of ruins, Pil?
No.  No, I don't.
I began with a trip to my local grocery coming back with some aperitivo basics like olives and proscicutto.  I have to eat my fill of cured meat here, since I don't eat it at home or not more than once or twice a year.
Then I and my metro pass set out.  I had a longish ride out to Piramide, but not as long as yesterday. The train station of Porta San Paulo is right there, and I did not even have to reinsert my pass.  I just got on the train.  It's about a half hour ride to Ostia Antica--that's the name of the stop and not a very interesting or scenic one.  I got off and followed the crowd into the underpass, and we emerged.  I saw I sign in Italian with directions on how to get to the park and off I went. It was very basic Italian.  I'm no linguist.  I just happen to understand the words for footbridge.
My strategy for enjoying historical sites and museums is to get as far away from school and tour groups as possible.  I love my own students.  I have no use for other people's.  Fortunately although Ostia Antica is justly popular, it's also large.  I made my way down the long length of Roman pavement of the Decumanus.  Rome itself grew organically and was rather haphazard, but when the Romans founded a town, they planned it out carefully in a grid.  The two main streets were the Decumanus and the Cardo that met at right angles. Then the land was divided into blocks, which can be clearly seen at Ostia.
I worked my way back enjoying some peace and quiet as well as the buildings and occasional mosaic.  I liked it because I got a sense of everyday life in a Roman city and how people lived and what public amenities they enjoyed and what civic institutions governed them.
If you are not a fan of ruins and you come to Rome, the Forum and the Palatine will do, but if you are interested in Roman urban planning and life, then it is worth taking the easy trip to Ostia Antica.  By the way the name of the town means "mouth" as it was the mouth of the Tiber River.  Ostia used to be right on the coast of the Mediterranean, but two thousand years have taken their toll and it is a few miles inland. I climbed several structures--the ones we were allowed to climb--hoping for a glimpse of the Med.  I did see the new port, but I did not see the water.

Tivoli: Hadrian's Villa

Ciao!
Since it's Monday, I needed a special activity, and I discovered that Hadrian's Villa is open on Monday.  It took some doing to get there, but the trip (and its attendant bus hassles) was worth it.
I got a new metro pass and also provided myself with the proper bus tickets at my local shop.  I took a longish metro ride out.  I had to transfer to Line B and since I was going to nearly the end of the line, I had to be careful of which train I took as the line branches.
I hopped off the train and was able to go directly to the bus stop as I had already bought my tickets.  I did not have long to wait.  The bus came, and I got on.  About an hour's ride through uninteresting suburbs brought me to Tivoli.  I was not sure where to get off, but I alighted when most others did.  This was the correct choice.  Then I bought my tickets for the bus to Hadrian's Villa and asked about the stop.  The Proprietor escorted me across the street and consulted with someone and then told me where to go.  He was wrong, but his heart was in the right place.
I went to the stop, but then a kindly woman explained to me in Italian that my waiting there was futile.  I understood that much.  No bus would stop there, but I was less clear about her instructions to the correct stop.  I understand a little Italian--but seriously not much.  I went.  I looked.  Couldn't figure it out.  I asked people.  No one knew.  Then I spotted a Tourist Information kiosk.  She had the straight scoop, which I realized when I saw the bus I wanted pulling away from the stop.  I am getting good at just missing busses.
The next bus showed up about twenty minutes later, and a bunch of us piled on.  We were decanted at the entrance to the villa and lined up to get our tickets.  The site is huge, and a lot of the villa remains unexcavated, but I have to pronounce these the most impressive ruins I have seen in a trip replete with monumental Roman remains.  The villa in its heyday must have been magnificent.  Hadrian was one of the Five Good Emperors.  His family hailed from Spain, but he was immersed in Greek culture and was a notable builder.  He has his own wall up in Northern England, and he also inspired the Pantheon.  Although he was a Stoic, he had a keen sense of beauty, so the villa he designed must have been truly lovely and harmonious.
The site is well sign posted and apart from ruins, is like all these places, beautiful.  My guide book warned visitors with pollen allergies to take their meds before coming.  The place is carpeted in wild flowers!  One of my favorite experiences at the Villa was walking through a grove of olive trees.  Seeing the sunlight filtering through their silvery leaves was a magical experience.
Then back to the bus stop.  I'd provided myself with return tickets, so no worries there, but the bus did not show up.  Of course, one did eventually because I'm here after all.  I am indebted as well for the return trip to Rome to an intrepid Italian woman who chased down the bus, pounded on the door, and scolded the driver, who evidently thought he had no passengers to pick up.
I am enjoying my dinner of tortellone with garlic and luscious olive oil topped with a generous sprinkling of parmesan.  So Very Good!

Along the Appian Way

Ciao!
First off with insincere apologies to 42nd Street.
Come and meet those sandaled feet-beat beat beat
On the avenue I'm taking you to, Via Appia!
Come and meet those marching feet beat beat beat
'Cause the legions love the melody of Via Appia!

Go on Sunday, they said.  It's the best day, they said.  The park is closed to traffic. The latter statement is true.
Although I enjoyed the lovely archeological park, getting there and back--and this involved busses--was a nerve wracking adventure.  I did my due diligence.  I used the Roman transport route planner.  I wrote down the bus number and stops.  There were even suggested times.  No where did it say (and I did look) that said bus does not run on Sundays.
I took the metro out and found the suggested bus stop right away. I should have known it was too good to be true.  Also there was a largish group of young people awaiting the same bus.  Ha ha.  What a bunch of saps we were.  At length the leader of the group consulted with the driver of a bus that actually ran.  She motioned the kids to get on board.  I followed.
When they got off I got off.  The leader had directions on her phone, so I followed along wondering how I was ever going to find my way back.  I chatted with the leader along the walk.  She told me Roman buses have no time table, so . . . We walked quite a while, then lucked into a bus that was going where they wanted to go, and I didn't mind going.
Success!  We were at the Catacomb of Callistus.  I bought a ticket and joined a tour.
It was fascinating.  Our guide was lively and witty.  She put her jacket on before going downstairs, so the rest of us who had sweaters, etc. followed suit.  It was cool in the catacombs, but not really chilly.  The tour was very informative.  Of course, I already knew some of the terms and information from Art History, but I loved seeing the admittedly crude Early Christian Frescos and actually being there.
After the tour I took along walk in the archeological park.  It was a beautiful day and a bit cooler than yesterday.  Everything was green and fresh looking.
The park is a a huge sprawling site, and I did not see everything before I began to feel tired and footsore, but then the question became--how do I get the bus back?  I could not find a stop going in my direction.  I had to ask twice, but I finally found a stop, and I knew it was the correct one because the bus I wanted was pulling away from it once I'd spotted it.  I had no idea how long I'd have to wait--no timetables, remember?  I think it was about fifteen to twenty minutes so not bad. The bus deposited us near the Circo Massimo Metro Station, so I tubed--with a change at Termini--home where I am now enjoying a refreshing and well earned aperitivo--Prosecco, olives, and nuts if you are interested.
But stick around for cena, amici, because we are having pasta all'amatriciana.  Traditionally it's made with buccatini, which is a long, thick pasta with a hole in it like stretched out macaroni, and then dressed with this tomato based sauce.
Did you make the sauce, Pil?
Nope, but it's easy to make nonetheless, so I could have if I'd bought the ingredients.  There's an another traditional Roman style spaghetti called Gricia made with guanciale (pork cheeks--the kind from the face, silly but substitute pancetta if you can't find it), some oil, garlic, and pepper.  Amatriciana is that deglazed with white wine plus gooshed up canned tomatoes.  Some people add onion.  Amatriciana refers to Amatrice, which used to be in Lazio and had the reputation of creating good cooks.
Let's begin by having a sip of a Lazio red wine.  Most wines produced around Rome are white, but I found some Gran Picco Castelli Romani DOC at the hypermercato.  Nice.  Not my favorite.  I'll have to see how it goes with food.
Italians claim Americans over sauce the pasta, so I added the pasta to what I considered a meager amount of sauce, but it does look like it does in the photos.  Add a sprinkle of parmesan or pecorino Romano. AND it tastes good!  Very savory.  The wine--still nothing special--goes well enough with it.

Natale di Roma--The Birthday of the City of Rome

Ciao!
April 21st as it is here is the official birthday of the City of Rome.  It's also confusingly referred to as the Christmas of Rome, but the pagan foundation of the city has nothing to do with Christianity.  According to legend rather than history Romulus plowed the limits of the city in 753, and years were dated from ab urbe condito, the founding of the city.  Archeology tells us that the Seven Hills were inhabited before that date.
Celebrations will take place at various parts of the city, and one material benefit for me is that several museums are free on this day.  But I have been touristing hard, so this weekend I am going to take it a little easy.  I have to walk around, of course, and I need to do something historic, but I began my day with a trip to the new and giant grocery store in the mall.
Whew Hypermercato! As readers of this blog know I love snooting around grocery stores.  This one is impressive in some ways, but not as over the top as the one in Bologna.  For example there is only one aisle of pasta, but the store makes up for it with two aisles of cheese.  Apart from raw ingredients, there are prepared dishes, and many specialty counters.  As this was the grand opening, special offers abounded.  I came away with two bottles of wine, a package of tortellini, and some sauce for under ten euros.  The mall is across from the metro station, so it's a fair step there and back, so I'm likely to be patronizing my local grocery for the most part, but the hypermercato might be handy for picking things up in the afternoon to take home.
After dumping my takings off I went back to the metro, mailed some postcards, and rode into town.  I spent a lot of the day being lost, but I finally fetched up at the Museo de Ara Pacis, where I got in for free in honor of the day.  The Ara Pacis or Altar of Augustan Peace is a marble structure dedicated to Pax and given to Augustus by the Senate after his return to Rome at the finish of the Civil Wars.  Some of the relief panels were scattered.  For instance, Villa Medici has some I saw in the gardens, and a few are at the Vatican.
The reliefs depict an idealized Roman Society using the Julio-Claudian Family.  Augustus as high priest performs a sacrifice in perfect poise and propriety surrounded by his reverent and respectable (Yeah right) family.  It's a beautiful and high class piece of propaganda.
I have crossed the Tiber many times, but today I did it on foot.  I strolled about licking windows here and there when I came across a Sicilian Bakery.  Holy Cannoli!  Yes I got a couple of the crispy sweet shells, one filled with plain cream and one with pistachio creme.  I had them with a cup of tea, and both were divine.
I will have aperocena as I do not feel like cooking.  If spring is this hot, what must summer be like?  If you visit the city in whatever time of year, you are likely to come across those guys in legionary or gladiator outfits who will offer to pose for photos. What they are doing is in fact illegal because of course they want money, and some of them are very aggressive, and some of them if they get your camera will hold it for ransom.

The Baths of Caracalla

Ciao!
I am exhausted and famished having spent a lot of the day getting lost.  Let's skip aperitivo and to straight to cena.
Hey, Pil!  What's that on your plate?  It looks like---pizza.
Pizza al Taglio to be exact, made by the world's Pizza Emperor Gabriele Bonci of Pizzarium.  I got two kinds, Pizza Margherita, which Bonci rarely offers because it's too banal (although his version is superb) and some with onion and cheese likewise superb.  The proper drink to have with pizza is beer.  That's what's in my glass.  Having wine with pizza immediately identifies the customer as an ignorant tourist.  I don't think the Italians will be rude but don't be surprised that some pizza places won't have wine to serve.
There are two main kinds of pizza in Italy.  One is the thin crust Naples style from a wood fired oven.  You can find it in Rome, but more common is the pizza al taglio.  Bonci dotes on his dough with a slow rise of several days and then seeks out the best most exciting organic and artesinal ingredients--which I'm not having this evening--to put on top.  Pizza al taglio can be found on nearly every block.  Consult your guidebook for the best.  Meanwhile I'm loving Bonci's.  The onions on one pizza are sweet, and the Margherita is lush with tomato and mozzarella.
It's been hot and a bit muggy, and I have been touristing hard.  You can see I've covered a lot of ground.  Today I began by getting a three day metro pass, some postcards, and stamps.  Then I set off for Sant Pietro in Vincoli, and it was open when I got there. The reason to come is Michelangelo's Moses, which is part of his tomb for Pope Julius II.  Otherwise the church while beautiful is undistinguished.  Come if you love Michelangelo.  Otherwise skip it because although the church is close to Cavour Metro, you have to climb a zillion steep steps to get to it.
Then I got back on the metro and popped out a Circo Maximo, the site of the Circus Maximus where Ben Hur raced chariots, but it's a boring archeological site, and I was after something more significant.  Ooh there it is, I thought, and I walked toward some impressive ruins.  Ha ha!  They were impressive all right, but I'd already visited the Palatine, so I turned around and went in the opposite direction.  Wrong again.
I finally figured out from my map the real way to go and fetched up at the Baths of Caracalla.  This particular emperor was a monster.  He wasn't demented like some of them, but he was cruel and highly suspicious.  But hey--gotta keep the plebs happy.  So he had this complex built.
Baths is a a bit of a misnomer.  Resort is a better description.  Bathing was an important part of Roman life, and many public baths existed.  Men and women went on different days to different baths.  Some were simple--just to wash.  The big ones like Caracalla's and Diocletian's, which I visited earlier, featured not just baths, but treatments, gymnasiums, libraries, gambling halls, restaurants--lots of amenities in an elegant setting with marble and statues.  The baths were cheap or free, so anyone--even slaves--attended.  Caracalla's were the largest constructed, and even in a ruined state are impressive.  The site offers a virtual reality audio guide, and I rather regretted not getting it when I heard my fellow visitors exclaim over what they were seeing.
I came back via Termini Station and visited the food hall Mercato Centrale.  They have a branch of Pizzarium plus a lot of other food delights to eat in or take out.
My neighborhood just had a major acquisition--a new shopping center called Aura.  I checked it out.  Nice except for the American fast food.  Seriously, Italy?  One place was called "Wild West" and featured covered wagons and TexMex.
Rejecting this I took another metro ride one stop and found Pizzarium.  That's more like it.
I forgot to recount this yesterday.  At all metro stations and public sites you'll see uniformed men with scary looking weapons although some of those guys are cute even so.  Most museums have security as did Villa Medici.  As my bags were being searched one of the troops (and he was cute) decided to tease me.  "Do you have a gun?" he asked.  "Not today," I replied.  He found this hilarious, so I added emphatically, "Or ever!"

Roman Gardens

Ciao!
Oof it is hot today.  Fortunately I'm cooling off with my aperitivo of olives, nuts, and Prosecco.  Most refreshing after a day of pounding Roman pavement and cobbles.
The post title says "gardens," Pil.
I'll get there.
My neighbors were out partying. I know this because they came back late (or very early depending on your point of view) and loud.  Our rooms are set around a courtyard, which is very pretty, but then one can hear every coming and going and conversations.
I had an excellent plan for the day, which didn't work out as anticipated, but everything went fine, and I saw what I wanted to see and got done what needed to be done.
I began with a metro trip out to San Giovanni.  St. John Lateran is the oldest church in Rome founded by Constantine who confiscated the land from a pagan named Lateranus and gave the structure to the Pope. It is in fact the seat of the Bishop of Rome, i.e. Pope Francis, and the Cathedral of the City.  St. Peter's is more universal--shall I say catholic?--but St. John Lateran is specifically Rome's mother church.  It's been baroquitized to a very large extent.  The church is a basilica with a double aisle. It's gorgeous, but few traces of Early Christianity remain.  I admired some mosaics in the apse.
On my way to and from, I said ciao to the Aurelian Walls built by my favorite emperor from Late Antiquity.  Aurelian knew how to defeat imperial rivals and barbarians, too, and he put a divided empire back together.
I am not a grudge holder.  I was willing to give Villa Medici another chance.  The idea was for me to get my ticket for the tour and then take the metro and go to the atm from my bank's foreign partner, then scamper back for the tour.  This plan was contingent on the lift from Spagna Metro working.  It was not open.  I had to climb the Spanish Steps all the way to the top.  Fortunately since I've been here a week I am pretty fit.  I was afraid that the tour spots would be filled, so I got my ticket early and then had to hang around. As it happened there were only three of us on the tour, and it was the garden only as the palazzo was hosting an event.  This was actually ok with me because I figured I'd seen enough palazzos for the moment, and the garden tour was great.  Our guide was a charming French Art Historian named Lucy, and our tight little group soon bonded, and we chatted freely.  The Medici Gardens are formal and, of course, full of symbolism. We even spotted the white rabbit "Fernando" who lives in the grounds.
Then I made my way down the Pinician Hill and crossed Piazza del Populo to Via Flaminia.  I walked for what seemed to be a long time.  My target was the Museo Nationale Etrusco di Villa Guilia.  Now I realize not everyone shares my fascination with the Etruscans, but this is a very worthwhile museum.  The building is beautiful and is set in lovely gardens with plenty of places to sit and relax--something I needed by that time. I got into a conversation about the enchanting Sarcofago degli Sposi with an Englishman who in my opinion had a very posh accent.  He saw me photographing it, and we admired it together.  Don't get ideas.  He was there with his wife.
I also like Greek Vases from various periods and the Etruscan bronzes and works in terracotta, but the other highlight for me was Apollo of Veii.  How fun to see him in person.  Then I strolled about in the gardens and made friends with a cat.  I guess Rome has lots of cats.  I see them everywhere.
But it was hot, and I was tired, yet I still had one more chore.  Remember my plan to hit the atm?  I got off the metro at Ottaviano and went to that one instead of Via de Corso.  Then I walked back, got on the metro, and made my weary way home.
And since it's Thursday, that means gnocchi!  Gently cooked and served with pesto and some sprinkled parmesan, this dish is divine and so easy.

Three Palazzos

Ciao!
I'm finally getting the hang of Rome. I successfully rode a bus today!  Moreover I stride--not quite fearlessly, but with the appearance of confidence onto the crosswalk in the face of on coming traffic.
It works like zebra crossings in London.  Standing on the curb looking hopeful accomplishes nothing; the pedestrian must step into the street.
I wanted to book a tour for the Palazzo Farnese, but even though I'm here for another two weeks, they were full.  Fortunately the proprietor suggested another palazzo that didn't need a reservation.
So I walked all the way down Via Corso licking windows as I went until I spotted my target.
The Doria-Pamphilj Family still lives in the palace when they are in Rome and the current head of the family Jonathan, who sounds English narrates the audio guide.  Pamphilj is the Roman branch, the one who produced Pope Innocent X.  He's the grim looking guy in that Velasquez portrait, which you can say hi to when you visit.  The palazzo was a gift to his nephew, and it is spectacular!  Doria came when the Pamphiljs allied with the leading Genoese Family through marriage.  The ceiling frescos and art collection (a couple of early Caravaggios for example) are first rate.  I'd put this on a must see for a visitor to Rome.
Next I wound my way through a maze of streets and past the Pantheon again to get to Piazza Navona.  It's large and oblong.  We can pause to admire Bernini's Fountain of the Four Rivers before making our way to Palazzo Braschi, which is a sort of History of Rome museum.  I was also keen on the special exhibit of Canalettos.  I refuse to apologize for appreciating his paintings.  After that the rest of the collection was a bit of a let down, but the building is fabulous and well worth seeing.
I promised three palazzos, and I am going to deliver!  Just off Piazza Navona is the Palazzo Altemps in a wonderful building dating from the 1400s which holds some of the National Museums' antiquities. There are some superb statues in amazingly excellent condition although clearly some have been repaired and restored but not all.  The exhibits also featured some modern installations based on classical themes and motifs.  Some of these were very clever.
Well, I walked out, but by this time I was also worn out and didn't want to walk back.  Fortunately there are tourist information huts in many parts of the city and there was one across the street from the Altemps.  I knew I needed a bus, but I wasn't going to get on one without advice.
Having received the advice I strolled down to Largo di Argentina and found the correct stop going in the right direction.  I need to learn how to use the busses to see what I want to see.  I got on a very very crowded bus where people kept getting on but didn't get off until we nearly reached Termini.
At Termini I got off, strolled around a  bit--Termini is rather like a Hauptbahnhof.  There's a shopping center. Then I got the metro home.
My aperitivo is Procecco and a crostini with Bresaola, a kind of cured beef I had and really liked in Milan.  It comes from the Swiss border.  It's not like jerky at all. The taste and texture is more like prosciutto but it is different and very yummy on a crostini.
Dinner will be ravioli as I have some left over, and I will dress it with garlic, plenty of olive oil and some parmesan.  The wine is Est Est Est!  I have not ever seen it in the United States, but if you come across it try it.  There's a cute story involved with the name.  A traveling bishop who liked his wine sent a servant ahead to scout the offerings.  If he thought the wine was worthy of the episcopal palate the servant would write the word "Est" (it is) on the door of the taverna.  Coming to Montefiascone the servant found a wine so sublime he wrote "Est! Est!! Est!!!" on the door.  This tale is of dubious historicity.

The Vatican Museums

Ciao!
Europeans frequently pull their vehicles up onto sidewalks, and I encounter this every day on my walk to and from the metro.  I either have to cross the street or walk in it.  This afternoon, I had just stepped into the street when I met an older woman who just done the same.  She spoke to me, and I was about to go into my "Sono tourista" act when I realized I understood what she said, so I laughed and agreed.  She said something like, "We have to walk in the street because the trucks take up the sidewalk."  Expression and gesture contributed to my understanding.
I got a good night's sleep--finally--but I am still shattered.  The Vatican Museums were an intense experience.  I am glad I waited because I don't think I could have done all of them the day after I arrived.  I booked a fairly early time thinking that it would be less crowded.  I was mistaken.
You simply cannot be spontaneous about visiting the Vatican. You Must Book Ahead. (And do it before you leave or have your hotel reception do it. Avoid the touts because you'll pay three times the price). The line for the poor saps who fail to do this is always insane.  It's like the line for Anne Frank's House in Amsterdam.  It goes on forever.  You can take guided tours, but I would advise getting an audioguide instead because you have more control over what you see and when. You might not want to visit that Etruscan Museum I was so keen on.  I also want to say that the Vatican Museums are a true bargain even with the advance booking fee.  You get admission to ALL of them, and each separately could command an entry fee of at least twelve euros.
I did not have to wait at all.  I went through security and traded my voucher for a ticket, and I was launched.  I first when into the Pinotecca, which is the museum for paintings.  After the crowds at the entrance I was glad to be in a quieter place.  The other visitors rushed through it so I got to examine works at my leisure.  I had Raphael's Transfiguration and his other works all to myself!  Not to mention other distinguished works by great artists, but the truth is I came to Rome for Raphael.
The buildings themselves are beautiful and are packed to the brim with antiquities and other art treasures. Inevitably I got mixed in with a bunch of tour groups.  I heard complaints that the guide was inaudible or incomprehensible.  Most people were paying no attention to the guide anyway. I don't think the visitors knew what they were looking at.  They had their phones out and were taking photos of everything they came across.
Of course the Big Thing everyone comes to see is the Sistine Chapel, and it was wonderful to see it in person even in the midst of the crowd.  I think I got a good look at the ceiling and the Last Judgment.
I also loved the frescos by Raphael in the papal apartments.  The School of Athens is one of my favorite paintings, so I was delighted to see it up close.
I also made sure I saw the Apollo Belvedre and Laoccon, but the Vatican Collection is so rich, it's overwhelming even for me.  After nearly three hours I was arted out and tired from walking and climbing up and down all those stairs.  I walked through the Piazza and took some photos and went off to Castel Saint' Angelo.
It's on the Tiber and looks a big like a coil.  Hadrian built it for his tomb, but it looked so fortress-like the popes took it over as a refuge in their many times of trouble.  There's a military museum inside but I wasn't interested.  I just liked walking around especially since the barrel vaulted ramp was cool and dark.
Then I strolled through the city to the metro stop Lepanto and came home a bit early all stiff and tired.  I believe I have earned an aperitivo.  I'm having some tuna and olives with Prosecco.
Let's talk about olive oil--the extra virgin kind.  I happen to love it, and fortunately where I live I can find some pretty good stuff.  But in my Italian grocery store, I looked for DOP oil or bottles with harvest dates and other indications of quality, and did not find any.  Still I think I got a nice bottle.  It's organic, and when I tasted the oil, I got the catch in the back of my throat that indicates the presence of those much desired polyphenols.  So I have no hesitation in drizzling or dousing my food.  Today I am having a simple, classic dish of capellelini laced liberally with garlic, oil, and a bit of salt. It's one of my favorite ways to have pasta, and it is traditional in Rome.

Ancient Rome Ground Zero: The Forum and the Palatine

Ciao!
My aperitivo includes tuna crostini.  I felt I needed some extra protein. I certainly burned calories today as I walked constantly up and down hill.  I have done three out of the Seven Hills:  Capitoline, Palatine, and Esquiline.
Monday in Rome can be problematical.  Almost all museums are closed.  An exception is the Vatican Museums, which close for obvious reasons on Sunday instead.  Most tourists go there.  The other choice is the heart of the Ancient City, and that's where I went today.  Rain was in the forecast, but the day was fine and very warm, so it was good climbing around weather.
I just said no to the Flavian Amphitheatre and made my way to the Forum entrance. The Forum and Palatine Hill are in fact one huge and fascinating site.  Mind, you have to like ruins to appreciate it all.  I happen to, and the older the better in my opinion.  If you like there are guided tours or you can rent an audio guide. The Forum was Rome's administrative, religious, and social center.  The Palatine Hill was the posh neighborhood full of patricians and royalty.  Our word palace comes from it.
In fact the Romans built to last, and the reason why these once magnificent buildings are in bad shape is that human beings--er--repurposed--the material from which they were made to construct other things.  "Ooh, look!  Marble. Let's take some home with us."  That sort of thing.
I thought it was going to be crowded, but the site is so big I did not mind the other people.  I also have to say that the archeological park is beautiful.  Italy in the spring is lush and green, and there is plenty of foliage, plus olive groves and blossoming trees to see when you tire of stone.  The views from the Palatine are spectacular.  I was disappointed that the on-site museum was closed though.  It was a good way to spend the morning.  I got history, fresh air, and exercise.
I went back one metro stop because I discovered that two must-see churches were nearby.  Well, I got to see one of them anyway.  Santa Maria Maggiore (the large church dedicated to the Virgin) dates to the mid Fourth Century making it one of the oldest churches in Rome. It's a basilica.  I didn't have much trouble finding it although I had to climb Esquiline Hill, and to get inside I had to go through some major security.  The exterior has been messed about with to a large extent with a lot of Baroque accretions. Never mind that.  We're here for the nave.  The church is gorgeous!  It glitters with mosaics and is replete with marble, gilt, and paintings.  No wonder Gian Lorenzo Bernini chose to be buried here.  He rests in Exuberance.
My next stop was St. Pietro in Vincoli because that's where Michelangelo's Moses is.  Wow, Rome has a lot of churches.  I saw at least four that weren't St. Pietro. I wandered a long time, but I finally found it after climbing a gazillion stairs.  It was closed.  Yeah, but I know where it is now, so I can return.
Before we get to dinner, let's review escalator etiquette, shall we?  Stand on the right, people.  Unless you intend to climb.  For reasons that escape my understanding some people need to rush so they use the escalator more or less as a stairway.   Escalator etiquette is especially important if you ever visit London as some daring souls hurl themselves down the steep moving stairs in a manner I regard as near suicidal.  You do not want to be in their way.  Rome isn't that bad, but come on, be polite.
You said the word dinner, Pil.  What's it to be?  More pasta?
I'll branch out eventually, but yes, ravioli is on the menu.  I went to the grocery store this morning.  I am sticking with the brand of Prosecco because it's cheap, and I like it a lot, but I am trying different wines from this area. If you are in Italy trying a food product look for or ask about DOP.  It's a guarantee that the product is made traditionally and meets certain standards of quality.  It does not necessarily, but may, mean expensive. I won't buy wine that does not have this designation, but I am notorious for getting cheap wine. This evening's tipple is from Orvieto.  Mmm, and very nice it is, too.
Ravioli comes doused in garlic and olive oil with a generous sprinkle of parmesan.  So Good!

Fun Times Around Piazza Venezia

Ciao!
I was called "bella" a couple of times today only it was by touts looking to sell me some overpriced tickets.  Apparently this is how they attract gullible old ladies.  I was not taken in.
I am still jet lagged mostly in the sense that my sleep cycle is still out of wack, but I am more functional each day.  I had a good big day today.  And I did not get lost once!  Although I have to confess I am terrified each time I have to cross the street with just a crosswalk and no traffic light.  The cars don't want to hit pedestrians, but they don't exactly stop for us either.
I booked my tickets for the Vatican Museums for next Tuesday with the help of the nice young man in Reception, who also told me how to get to today's destination and advised me to my relief to avoid busses today.
I had to change Metro lines at Termini Station.  I almost got on the wrong train but caught myself in time, so I had a quick trip out to the Colosseo stop where I popped out right in the face of the world-renowned Flavian Amphitheatre.  It was a zoo featuring tourist hordes, ticket touts, immigrants trying to sell selfie sticks, street entertainers, guys in legionary outfits.  Fortunately I could pass it all by at least I could today.
My target was Piazza Venezia where I lighted upon the Palazzo Venezia, a Renaissance gem constructed by a cardinal from where else--Venice--who later became a pope.  The building and gardens are fabulous.  The art within is ok, but my visit was enlivened by the attentions of some eager young docents.  They were charmingly forward in wanting to enrich my visit as much as possible, so naturally I encouraged them with questions and conversation.  Delightful.  My guess is that these are student volunteers who are training to work in museums.
I got directions to my next target, which has been long desired.  The Pantheon!  It was an easy walk.  There's a big old long line to get in, but it moves very fast and the site is free.  I was mostly there to pay my respects to Raphael who is buried there along with King Victor Emmanuel II, but I admired the marble facing and the amazing dome.  The oculus is much larger than I thought it was.  Of course, the place was packed.  There are a lot of snack bars, etc. around there but also a lot of beggars.
Then I went back to climb the Capitoline Hill to the Piazza Campidoglio a beautiful space designed by Michelangelo.  Two museums face each other across the square featuring a copy of the equestrian portrait of Emperor Marcus Aurelius.  The real one is inside one of the museums so don't bother with the fake.  Ok.  I said two museums, but they really are one connected by an underground passage.  The reason to come here is the antiquities.  There's Mama Capitoline Wolf (just ignore the kids) the Colossal Constantine, and the Dying Gaul. There are other cool things as well, so it's worth making the climb.
As I write I am enjoying my Prosecco and aperitivo snack, which is a crostini with prosciutto.  I have having a small snack because I intend to pig out on--er--have the Cultural Experience of Pasta Cacio e pepe, which is a classic Roman recipe that I can get to work once in a while.  There are RULES about pasta, and if the Italians knew what I was up to I'd probably be arrested.  You are supposed to salt the water.  I can't be bothered.  I use too small a pan because I'm a Southern Californian and refuse to waste water.  I use enough water because the pasta can move around, but no Italian would be satisfied. [And I found out that Kenji Lopez-Alt agrees with this.  So There!] I also cook my pasta a little past al dente.  I don't like mushy pasta--bleck! but I want it cooked through.  I also don't make Cacio e Pepe correctly because I add a dash of garlic powder and some olive oil.  I also use capellini because I get hungry and it cooks faster than the thicker strands of pasta that are more authentic.  The point of Italian Cuisine is simple dishes made sublime with the best ingredients.  These are easily obtained in Italy.  Elsewhere?  Maybe.
So the dish is good even if your cheese clumps as mine does all too often.

Some Fragments of Ancient Rome

Ciao!
I am sure that young man in front of the Termini Station had a truly excellent reason for dressing up in a carrot suit.  At any rate he was smoking up a storm and talking loudly on his cell phone.  All Italians, it seems, talk loudly on their cell phones--just like everyone else.
And here's another thing.  It was quite warm today.  I and other tourists were walking around in thin, short sleeved T shirts.  Our hosts wore thick, padded jackets and scarves wound around their necks. I have observed this before in other parts of Italy, so it isn't just Romans.  I am at a loss to account for this phenomenon.
What's this have to do with Ancient Rome, Pil?
Not a thing.  Also Italians kept asking me for directions.  Sometimes I understood the question and could point or say something in simple English that got the job done.  Other times I just had to cop to being a tourist.
Is there food involved in Ancient Rome?
Your questions are interrupting my Aperitivo!
I am still not over the jet lag, but I can function, so I went to two big museums today and wallowed in Antiquity.  First off I had some errands.  Most stores close up tight in Rome on Sunday, so I had to lay in supplies.
Aperitivo supplies?
And breakfast and dinner, too.  I also had to get a new transportation pass. Then off to the Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo alle Terme, which houses an extensive and excellent collection of Roman sculpture, mosaics (love them!) and frescos as well as other artifacts.  All exhibits are labeled and explained in English--not that I needed that ahem.  Highlights include the vivid Hellenistic bronze of the Boxer and the wonderful Second Style or wall filling fresco of Livia's Garden.  It is just stunningly gorgeous, and I got to have the room all to myself.  I also enjoyed the fabulous mosaics.  But it's a big museum crammed with stuff.  I wanted to see everything; you may not.
Then I crossed the street to the Therme de Diocletian.  This particular emperor was not Italian and was too smart to live in Rome in the late Third Century, but he still built the largest bathhouse complex in the city.  As the place was repurposed as a Christian monastery, it's still in remarkable condition and is worth visiting for the building alone.  But as it happens the exhibits within are fascinating. The museum is dedicated to illuminating the everyday life of Ancient Romans, and if you are interested in their religious practices, or writing utensils, or jewelry, then this is the place for you.  I had an interesting experience walking out into a large cloister--as I mentioned the place became a monastery--and I suddenly felt uplifted. I decided that the feeling arose from the harmonious design and lovely proportions of the area.
Well, duh, Pil. It was designed by Michaelangelo.
Oh, so you saw the same sign I did?
Yeah. Right. Aperitivo!
I am having some nicely chilled Prosecco and some olives.  I only did two museums, but I walked a lot!  I have my crostini, too, spread with some ricotta with slices of prosciutto crudo laid upon it.  Mmm. So nice.  I avoid cured meat at home, but it made traditionally in Europe, and I do like it and figure it won't hurt me.
And what's for dinner?
I have some left over gnocchi and some left over pesto.  That sounds tasty, and a lot of Italian food is easy to make.  I got some local Lazio (Ancient Latium the province where Rome is located.) white wine Denominazione di Origine Controlata, so even the cheapo stuff is going to be good.  To cook gnocchi essentially one boils water then dumps in the gnocchi and then waits until the little dumplings rise to the surface.  Spoon them out into a bowl and dress them as you like.  I'll add extra Parmesan to mine.

Getting to Know the Eternal City

Ciao!
Let's start with my animal friends.  The place I live is very pretty and the rooms are set around a courtyard with a fountain--in the fountain live turtles!  Nice, eh?  On one side of road to and from the metro is a lush green hillside, which was today occupied by--well are they sheep or goats?  I asked, but I don't think the creatures speak English.  They were all shades of brown from beige to deep dark, which made me suspect the goatiness even though they looked like sheep.
I had a mixed day with some successes and some frustrations.  The major frustration is that the guidebook and the website misled me about the time of the English tour of Villa Medici, and a tour is the only way to visit.
I set out for the Piazza di Spagna because of the aforesaid Villa Medici, and also I knew it was a major tourist zone, so I hoped to find an atm of my bank's Italian partner in order to skip the pesky transaction fees.  I strolled down Via Condotti, the most elegant shopping street in Rome. I saw some very well dressed people, but most folks looked like me, and there were lots of tourists, especially on the Spanish Steps.  But seriously, amici, do we Really Need five different Chanel boutiques?  And the rest of the luxury brands had multiples, too.
From there I made my way down to Piazza del Populo where I strolled around and visited the church of Sta. Maria del Populo. Via Corso looked like a fun street and one likely to have atms, so I went down it.  I was about to give up when I spotted my bank! Whee! Until I couldn't get the wretched atm to work.  It recognized the foreign card and gave me instructions in English, but one of the instructions said push the "confirma" button, and there was so such thing.  At the atm next to mine was a nice looking older woman, so I asked her for help.  She spoke a little English, too, and carefully walked me through the steps.  It turns out that there is no confirma button, and I needed to push another one altogether.  I got my cash.  I find people are willing to help out foreigners who are humble and show no attitude.
I climbed the steep Pincian Hill (One of Seven).  Huff puff, and then I walked through the lovely park atop it.  I enjoyed some spectacular views of Rome. By the way I'm taking lots of photos, but my camera won't talk to my phone, so you'll have to wait.
It was after this that I suffered my disappointment at the Villa Medici.  What to do?  I decided to go to the main train station where the bus station also sits.  There was a sign that said: "If you want to go to these destinations, take this bus."  I believed it and got on a bus.  It turned out the way my bus rides usually do. Sigh.
But I did get to see some of the city, and we passed some cool sights--just not the one I wanted.  Realizing this I got off on my side of the Tiber.  Now what?  I still wanted to see things.
Then I spotted it.  A sign for something I Really Wanted to See. The Villa Farnesina belonged to banker-to-the-popes Augustino Chigi (pronounced Kigi), who was also pals with Raphael.  He commissioned Raphael to decorate his Tiber-side palazzo, and the results are spectacular. The most famous is the Galatea fresco, but the whole building is amazing and simply screams Renaissance.  I especially love Galatea because she is beautiful, has muscles, and her hair is brown.  Brown hair on a beauty is so rare in art.  I take this personally.
So I was happy until I finished the visit and realized I was in the middle of nowhere with no transportation.  I walked back to look for a metro stop.  I fetched up at the Vatican, and I knew that a stop on my line served it.  The place was packed, and at first I did not recognize St. Peter's Piazza because it looks completely different from the ground view, and I have only seen aerial shots.  It was still a long, long walk to the metro.
Since it's a warm evening we are having aperiticena--in other words an aperitivo with extra food for dinner.  Although beloved by tourists and students, this development is frowned upon by traditionalists who hold that it degrades the art of the aperitif and violates the sacredness of the evening meal.  On my plate are olives, nuts, and crostini spread with ricotta dressed with parmesan, garlic, and olive oil, all washed down with cool white wine.  It suits me.

A Change of Plan

Ciao!
It started to sprinkle as I made my way home, but I always carry an umbrella, so I was good, and after all I did get out and do some Tourist Dharma.
That was by no means certain.  After a few hours of sleep I woke up because my left ankle ached.  I don't know why.  I must have done something objectionable yesterday.  It got worse.  I could walk, but it was painful.  Oh no, I thought.  I won't be able to go anywhere--well definitely not the Vatican Museums, which is standing in line and then a three hour trek.  After about four hours of this, things began to improve.  I am not 100%, but that's mostly jet lag, and I walked around just fine.
Italians eat sugar for breakfast.  This morning so did I because in my jet lagged state yesterday, I did not realize I bought sweet, sugar-coated cornettos (Those are the Italian version of croissants.).  Yuk!  I hate sweet things for breakfast.  I had some nice stracchinio, a sort of creme cheese, to put on it, but I was not pleased.  The tea was good though.  I picked up some Fortnum and Mason Breakfast Blend at Heathrow.  I corrected the situation with a trip to the grocery store, and starting tomorrow I will breakfast in a more wholesome way.
I did not feel up to the Vatican, but feeling pretty reasonable, I made my way to the metro and got a forty-eight hour pass.  My first target was Palazzo Barberini some of which was decorated by Bernini and Borromini, so I was trading the Renaissance for the Baroque.  The building is worth visiting for itself.  Don't forget to look up and admire the lovely ceiling frescos, but there are some nice paintings, too, and even a few gems by Raphael and Caravaggio.
After that I walked up the street to San Carlo di Quatre Fontane designed by Borromini.  It's a small church, but has an exquisite dynamism.  On each corner of the intersection where the church sits are four Roman fountains depicting river gods.  Borromini incorporated one in his design.
I was tired by then, but I had one more stop--Santa Maria della Vittoria.  The church is a Baroque jewel and worth seeing for its own sake, but we were all there for Bernini's St. Theresa in Ecstasy, and it is just as marvelous in person.
Then I caught the metro home.  My place is a fair distance from the city center, but after having experienced the Tourist Zone today, I'm glad I am not staying in it.  The sites are wonderful. Fighting the crowds, school and tour groups and traffic is not.
As the saying goes:  When in Rome, do as the Romans do--as long as the doing is pleasurable without harming oneself or others.  Thus I have prepared a modest aperitivo.  This is the same concept as the French aperitif, and it is considered an art form.  One has a drink.  Aperol Spritz is the trendy one, but I don't like Aperol.  I prefer Campari and soda, but I have none at the moment, so I am making do (poor me) with Prosecco--really very good considering I pulled it off the bottom shelf for its low price.  One does not drink without eating so I have a few plump green olives and a crostini I spread with ricotta and then dressed with some garlic and olive oil.  Sounds appetizing doesn't it?  That's the idea!
Now that our appetites are worked up it's time for another Roman custom--Gnocchi Thursday!  This is akin to Taco Tuesday back home, I'm guessing.  I cooked some delicate potato gnocchi and dressed it with oil, garlic, and parmesan.  I am washing it down with an historic wine called Est Est Est!  Perfecto as we Italians say.

Rome Sweet Rome

Ciao!
I'm here--finally--a dream come true!  Ever since I knew of such a place I have wanted to come to Rome, and now I am here.
It took some doing.  I flew from LAX to London, and the flight here was delayed.  It's easy enough to get into town via the Leonardo Express.  There are machines, and all over Europe ticket machines and atms give the user a choice of languages.  I pick English.  If you have trouble using the machines they are monitored by patient rail employees.
I navigated Termini station and found the ticket machines for the metro.  Now I am an experienced traveler and ticket machines do not intimidate me--especially when one of the language choices is English. I got the ticket with no problem.
But that's when the Comedy of Errors began!  I blame jet lag.  I couldn't figure out how to use the ticket at the gate.  I stuck it in the wrong place and lost it.  I got another.  I still couldn't figure it out, but finally I did. Ok.  Got on the right train in the right direction.  I even got off at the correct stop.
I had the directions with me, and they are very clear.  Only that does not guarantee that I understood them properly in my jet lagged state.  I also didn't help that I misread a sign.  I set off in the direction opposite to that I should have headed in.  I figured this out and backtracked.  This time I paid more attention to the directions and I fetched up here in this very nice apartment.
Oh and being lost in Rome?  Well I turned around and saw Michelangelo's Dome atop St. Peters.  So that's not bad at all.
I dumped my bags and went to the grocery store.  I put the bottle of Prosecco in the freezer to cool while I made my spinach tortellone.  The bottle froze to the bottom of the freezer, and I had to wrestle it out.  But it's good.
I'm being Roman and having dinner far later than I usually do, but I'll revert to habit tomorrow.
One thing I have to say about my accommodations.  They want to look after their visitors, so I am going to have a consult with the charming proprietor tomorrow morning.  My first stop--The Vatican!