Wednesday, September 20, 2017

Living in Lyon

Bon Jour Mes Amies,
Of course I don't actually live in Lyon.  I am just visiting and I hit the rails tomorrow morning back to London.  I spent the morning shopping, and then took one last afternoon walk across the city and its two beautiful rivers.  I did come back early because I have to wash my hair and also pack and figure out how to bring some of France back with me to England.
It's chilly in the morning, but the sun was out and the afternoon was warm and glorious.  One of the things I come to Europe to do is walk, and Lyon is even more walkable than the many other supremely walkable cities I've visited.  As I've mentioned my side of the Rhone is flat.  The Presque'ile is flat, and the hills only start on the far side of the Saone, and then it gets steep.  Crossing both rivers is easy and so is crossing the Presque'ile.  If I take Cours LaFayette down to the Rhone and cross there's a street that will take me to the Saone crossing and the Old Town.  I did learn by experience that it really matters which bridge one takes, and I realized that it's better to come back the way one went out.
The streets of the Old Town or Ville Vieux as we French say are heavily cobbled.  Even with my stout shoes I find it a bit of a heavy go, but I enjoy the narrow streets and pretty shops.  Of course by the time I got there the tour groups were out.  By the way, one can recognize the novice foreign visitor in Lyon by the way he or she hesitates to cross streets when the light is against them, but the coast is clear.  Ha ha!  That was me three weeks ago.
Naturally I had one last walk through March St. Antoine.  Simply fabulous!  And on some days not entirely French.  There's an Italian stand and a guy selling Mexican from a truck.  I had a look, but being from Southern California, I was not especially impressed.  One reads that the French prefer milder spicing, but that may be changing.
Oh and speaking of markets and food, one of my stops this morning was Les Halles de Paul Bocuse, which is literally a minute and a half's walk from my aparthotel.  I'll be discussing dinner later.  Right now I am sipping my aperitif.
Here's dinner.  For my last one in Lyon I have returned to quenelles de Brochet, which are so characteristic and justifiably beloved by both the Lyonnaise and tourists alike.  So good!  The taste is rich, but mild and not overwhelming.  I poached them in some wine I had to use up and have seasoned them with the crayfish butter and a glop of olive oil.  I still don't have the right kind of wine to go with them, but--know what?--it does not matter.
France is of course a popular destination, but there is more to France than Paris, and many Americans never do get beyond Paris, which admittedly is an incredible place.  Lyon is called France's Second City, but I think the Lyonnaise and I would cavil a bit.  Do you like to eat?  Drink?  This is the place!  Interested in the Romans?  Come here!  Just want to hang out in a relaxed and friendly city?  Lyon is the place.
I have felt very welcomed and cared for here.  I am very sorry to leave, but then I love London, too.

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