Sunday, September 10, 2017

History of Lyon in Thirty Rooms



Bon Jour Mes Amies,

After complaining the other day about not being able to find Cervelle des Canuts, I finally came across some at Marche St. Antoine on the banks of the Saone this afternoon.
Oh yeah?  How does it taste?
Good! It's like a superior version of something we can get at home--soft cheese with herbs only this is softer and a bit yummier.  Just be careful what you are asking for.  Apparently there's something with a similar name that involves tripe.  The key words are Fromagier and not Charcuterier.
I know my way back home well enough that I can pay more attention to my surroundings.  Thus I was bemused by the vending machine selling condoms on Cours LaFayette.  In French condoms are called preservatifs, which has the potential to cause hilarious misunderstandings between French vendors and American organics.
I was also able to render actual assistance to a fellow traveler this morning.  I was walking down Cours LaFayette when a woman at the bus stop spoke to me in English. I asked if I could help.  She needed a bus.  Well, duh.  I know nothing of busses in Lyon, but I looked at the posted schedule and explained to her that her desired bus did not run on Sundays.  Oh was she impressed with my knowledge of French or what?  Anyway, I invited her to walk along with me, so I could show her to the metro.  She was from Taiwan and was thrilled to pieces that I knew her country.  We discussed tea and how the British mangle Taiwanese tea with (urg) milk and sugar.  I am happy to render help to my fellow travelers if I can because I have so often been helped.  It's the Travelers Code. We look out for each other.
An interesting thing I have observed in Lyon is the prevalence of scooters. A few seem mechanized, but by far the majority are human powered.  They are used by the old--sometimes by the very old to the young--and sometimes by the very young.  Is this unique to Lyon?  I don't remember anything of the sort in Paris, but perhaps the Parisians would consider scooters to be inelegant?  But it seems to work well as a good, clean way to get around.
And now on to the history in short the Musee de l'Histoire de Lyon.  The museum does not open until 11:00 so I had plenty of time to help fellow travelers and snoot around shops in the tourist district. The admission price to the museum includes a good and and helpful audio guide, and the museum itself is housed in a Renaissance mansion created by the Italians invited by King Francis I to develop the silk industry in Lyon. The building has been messed about a good deal, but one can see Renaissance echoes here and there.  The exhibits are good on Romans and Middle Ages and show some nice furniture and ceramics from the Renaissance.  I appreciated some interesting French Revolutionary and Napoleon Era stuff. One thing I always like to see is artifacts from everyday life, and these are in abundance.  Along with those are a lot of documents and engravings and mediocre paintings, but one gets a good sense of how the city developed and why it developed the way it did.   Also one can get a chuckle over the abrupt renaming of Rue Imperiale to Rue de la Republique after the fall of Napoleon III. There are a few very nice period rooms.
Dinner is left overs, but these are French left overs.  The foie gras won't keep forever, so I'm having it on Pain Polaine with a little sparking wine and then I'll have the goat cheese.  The foie gras is so good, I'll probably have to spring for another slice, but I think I might move on to cows milk cheese.
A demain!

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