Hiya!
I feel better now that I've brushed my teeth and had a shower. But, no. I'm not home. I'm in Chicago for the night.
The plane from Rome to Munich was late, and a bunch of us were in danger of missing our connection. The airline told us--no worry--you'll have an escort. The escort did not materialize, so we Chicago bound travelers banded together and cheered each other on. We found our gate and were allowed to skip security, so we all got on board.
I was in a middle seat, but it was premium economy, so not bad. I dozed a bit off and on. The connection time at O'Hare was tight and I had to clear customs and go to another terminal. I was a bit worried.
I was even more worried when our flight into Chicago arrived twenty minutes late! I went through passport control, retrieved my bags, and cleared customs. I was supposed to recheck my bags, but by that time it was clear there was No Way I was going to make the flight to LAX.
I got in line at the customer service desk. There were a whole bunch of us who were missing one flight or other. The airline was doing the right thing and rebooking travelers and getting hotel rooms for those who had to leave the next day. When I got to the head of the line, I overheard the customer service guy ask for twenty more rooms. I had to laugh.
So I'm booked for LAX tomorrow at 7:30 and was given a hotel voucher and a meal voucher. The next step was waiting for the hotel shuttle. One of my fellow strandees called the place, but we had to wait some thirty minutes for the shuttle, and let me tell you Chicago weather late at night in late October is no joke for someone dressed for Southern California. It was 37F and rainy.
But I'm warm, safe, and dry now, and I hope I can get some sleep, too.
California, here I come!
Wednesday, October 30, 2019
STUCK!
It's not a buon giorno, amici, I was given bogus information about my flight and when I arrived finally at the check in desk, the attendant refused to check me in saying the gate was going to close--I still think I could have made it. Those of you who know me know that I'm am not flakey and I am an experienced traveler. I know how long it takes to get to airports and go through security. I should have been fine. I'm not.
Instead I was sent over to ticketing, and they will get me home, but I should be flying to Los Angles now, and instead I'm waiting at the airport for my flight to Munich, and then I will be routed through Chicago (mercifully this long jag in premium economy) and then to Los Angeles arriving around midnight. Oh also it's going to cost me some $3,000.00 to get home. I am not a happy traveler.
Ciao
Instead I was sent over to ticketing, and they will get me home, but I should be flying to Los Angles now, and instead I'm waiting at the airport for my flight to Munich, and then I will be routed through Chicago (mercifully this long jag in premium economy) and then to Los Angeles arriving around midnight. Oh also it's going to cost me some $3,000.00 to get home. I am not a happy traveler.
Ciao
Tuesday, October 29, 2019
The End of This Stay
Buon Giorno,
Because I'm not yet done with Rome just as I am not yet done with Paris and London, and I haven't even started on some places I long to visit.
I am sorry to report that some of my neighbors this go around with the shared kitchen are not as considerate as last time. When I went to get my breakfast I found the kitchen counters dirty and a pot with yucky dried up pasta in it. I wiped down the counters and put the pot to soak, but I'm not going to do their dishes for them--and I have a pretty good idea who they are--hint: a "y" chromosome is involved, and they are young.
The weather was a few degrees cooler today, which I found refreshing. I began with a trip to the local grocery store. I am leaving very early tomorrow, so mostly what I wanted was a snack for the airport and some whole wheat crostini to take home with me because I think it would be lovely with goat cheese spread on it. I'll find a place for it in my luggage somehow.
Then I took my usual trip down to the Metro. I'd gotten a forty-eight hour pass yesterday, so I did not have to worry about the ticket. I hopped off at Octaviano because I wanted to visit the bankomat of my bank's Italian partner. That done, I reboarded the Metro headed for Termini.
Termini is the Rome's main train station, and I'll be going there tomorrow morning to get the train for the airport, but this time my goal was two major museums that are next door or across the street from the station. I would call them both project museums because they have huge collections.
People who do not share my avid appetite for antiquities are advised to focus on the Museo Nationale Romano Massimo alle Terme. The words "treasure trove" often used of the collection are not at all misapplied. The collection is so large that not all of it can be exhibited at once so some pieces are swapped in and out. I visited last time I was in Rome, but I saw some works I had not seen before. I was a bit spoiled in Naples. The statutes here are mostly not as in good condition but are still worth seeing. The Hellenistic bronzes of The Prince and The Boxer are first rate. They also have a Roman copy of The Discus Thrower in prime condition. I happen to enjoy Roman portraiture, so I found plenty. I also love mosaics. Rome has better mosaics than Naples--don't tell! The highlight of the many fabulous frescos for me was Livia's Garden, a Second Style garden scene that gives a 3D illusion and is lovely and naturalistic. If you like coins and jewelry, and I do, you will find wonderful exhibitions of both.
I got a combo ticket, so when I left Massimo, I headed over to the Museo Nationale Romano Terme di Diocleziano for more antiquities. The baths built by the Emperor Diocletian were repurposed as a monastery, but enough of the original fabric remains to give the visitor an idea of what it was like. The collection in this museum is more geared to every day Roman life. No great works of art appear, but if you want to know how Romans wrote, worshiped, honored their dead, and tried to control their luck with magic, you will find this a worthwhile project.
Going down stairs, I had to be a bit stern with my knees, but we have come to an accommodation. I stopped off at the upscale mall across from the Metro. I went up to the food court to see if I could see the Dome of St. Peter's. I could a bit.
I'm going to miss being able to indulge my appetite with huge piles of pasta, etc. (But, meh, my cheese clumped just like it does at home. No smooth sauce for me in Rome.) I've been walking a lot, but tomorrow I'm just sitting on planes.
Thank you for sharing my journey!
Grazie e Ciao!
Because I'm not yet done with Rome just as I am not yet done with Paris and London, and I haven't even started on some places I long to visit.
I am sorry to report that some of my neighbors this go around with the shared kitchen are not as considerate as last time. When I went to get my breakfast I found the kitchen counters dirty and a pot with yucky dried up pasta in it. I wiped down the counters and put the pot to soak, but I'm not going to do their dishes for them--and I have a pretty good idea who they are--hint: a "y" chromosome is involved, and they are young.
The weather was a few degrees cooler today, which I found refreshing. I began with a trip to the local grocery store. I am leaving very early tomorrow, so mostly what I wanted was a snack for the airport and some whole wheat crostini to take home with me because I think it would be lovely with goat cheese spread on it. I'll find a place for it in my luggage somehow.
Then I took my usual trip down to the Metro. I'd gotten a forty-eight hour pass yesterday, so I did not have to worry about the ticket. I hopped off at Octaviano because I wanted to visit the bankomat of my bank's Italian partner. That done, I reboarded the Metro headed for Termini.
Termini is the Rome's main train station, and I'll be going there tomorrow morning to get the train for the airport, but this time my goal was two major museums that are next door or across the street from the station. I would call them both project museums because they have huge collections.
People who do not share my avid appetite for antiquities are advised to focus on the Museo Nationale Romano Massimo alle Terme. The words "treasure trove" often used of the collection are not at all misapplied. The collection is so large that not all of it can be exhibited at once so some pieces are swapped in and out. I visited last time I was in Rome, but I saw some works I had not seen before. I was a bit spoiled in Naples. The statutes here are mostly not as in good condition but are still worth seeing. The Hellenistic bronzes of The Prince and The Boxer are first rate. They also have a Roman copy of The Discus Thrower in prime condition. I happen to enjoy Roman portraiture, so I found plenty. I also love mosaics. Rome has better mosaics than Naples--don't tell! The highlight of the many fabulous frescos for me was Livia's Garden, a Second Style garden scene that gives a 3D illusion and is lovely and naturalistic. If you like coins and jewelry, and I do, you will find wonderful exhibitions of both.
I got a combo ticket, so when I left Massimo, I headed over to the Museo Nationale Romano Terme di Diocleziano for more antiquities. The baths built by the Emperor Diocletian were repurposed as a monastery, but enough of the original fabric remains to give the visitor an idea of what it was like. The collection in this museum is more geared to every day Roman life. No great works of art appear, but if you want to know how Romans wrote, worshiped, honored their dead, and tried to control their luck with magic, you will find this a worthwhile project.
Going down stairs, I had to be a bit stern with my knees, but we have come to an accommodation. I stopped off at the upscale mall across from the Metro. I went up to the food court to see if I could see the Dome of St. Peter's. I could a bit.
I'm going to miss being able to indulge my appetite with huge piles of pasta, etc. (But, meh, my cheese clumped just like it does at home. No smooth sauce for me in Rome.) I've been walking a lot, but tomorrow I'm just sitting on planes.
Thank you for sharing my journey!
Grazie e Ciao!
Monday, October 28, 2019
Stomping Around Rome
Buon Giorno,
I'm so footsore that it feels like I literally spent the day stomping around Rome rather than ambling. Since it's Monday here, most museums are closed, but I thought I could have a wander around the historic center and pop into some churches and also do some shopping.
First I looked around the upscale shopping mall opposite my metro stop. I love it for the huge supermarket in the basement, but the food court up top is also a hoot. One feature is a gigantic Kentucky Fried Chicken restaurant--not a take away--it's a sit down restaurant. You could also get sushi if you really wanted it in Italy. Why would you though?
As I left the mall I caught a glimpse of the very tip top of Michelangelo's Dome for St. Peter's. I'd bet there's a good view from the food court, but I didn't check.
I metroed to Flamminio and strolled down Via del Corso, which I like because there are fun windows to lick and it's pedestrianized. But then I turned aside and wound my way through some very narrow streets to Piazza Navona. I passed through the rich tourist zone with boutique hotels, luxury good shops, and lines of taxis.
The Piazza is magnificent with a major fountain designed by Bernini among other sights. I wanted the Church of St. Agostino, but it was closed up tight. I moved on.
I did find the Chiasa Nuovo open and went to look at Caravaggio's Deposition of Christ from the Cross. I guess Caravaggio has been a constant theme during this trip. The painting is marvelous. I tried taking a photo as the rest of my attempts to photograph Caravaggio have been miserable failures. But there was a reflection, so we'll have to see.
I made my way to Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. Every major Italian city has one of these to honor the first king of a united Italy since Theodoric the Ostrogoth. Vittorio Emanuele II was amiable, but mediocre and looked like a walrus. He had enough sense, however, to listen to his extraordinarily talented Prime Minister, Count Cavour--in case you were wondering about all the streets, metro stops etc. named Cavour.
Vittorio Emanuele II has another monument in Rome, and if you come here you will not be able to miss it no matter how much you may want to. It's huge and made of blindingly white marble. The thing looks like a megalomaniac's fever dream, and it fact it was conceived of and supervised by Mussolini himself (I think on the chance that if he honored a predecessor, his successor would lavishly honor him.).
I proceeded down the Corso because I wanted a particular street with a particular shop. On my previous trip I found it easily. This time I got all turned around and ended up in Piazza Venezia--which is not a bad place to end up. I started over. Got turned around again. I was on the wrong side of the street. Blah Blah.
I did end up at my desired destination. I was after some super duper lux Italian soap. A very charming and attractive young man waited on me and treated me like a duchess despite my travel worn appearance.
My purchase made, I went back to the Corso VE2 to find a bus that would take me to the train station. So when I didn't need the bus stop, I practically tripped over one on every block. When I wanted one they mysteriously disappeared, and anyway I was on the wrong side of the street.
I finally found one and the bus came quickly, and I had an interesting ride past some of Rome's major sites. I caught the Metro at Termini and walked home, and here I am having my apero with that rather nice rose I got yesterday. I'll have it with my pasta and bolognese sauce later on for dinner.
Ciao
I'm so footsore that it feels like I literally spent the day stomping around Rome rather than ambling. Since it's Monday here, most museums are closed, but I thought I could have a wander around the historic center and pop into some churches and also do some shopping.
First I looked around the upscale shopping mall opposite my metro stop. I love it for the huge supermarket in the basement, but the food court up top is also a hoot. One feature is a gigantic Kentucky Fried Chicken restaurant--not a take away--it's a sit down restaurant. You could also get sushi if you really wanted it in Italy. Why would you though?
As I left the mall I caught a glimpse of the very tip top of Michelangelo's Dome for St. Peter's. I'd bet there's a good view from the food court, but I didn't check.
I metroed to Flamminio and strolled down Via del Corso, which I like because there are fun windows to lick and it's pedestrianized. But then I turned aside and wound my way through some very narrow streets to Piazza Navona. I passed through the rich tourist zone with boutique hotels, luxury good shops, and lines of taxis.
The Piazza is magnificent with a major fountain designed by Bernini among other sights. I wanted the Church of St. Agostino, but it was closed up tight. I moved on.
I did find the Chiasa Nuovo open and went to look at Caravaggio's Deposition of Christ from the Cross. I guess Caravaggio has been a constant theme during this trip. The painting is marvelous. I tried taking a photo as the rest of my attempts to photograph Caravaggio have been miserable failures. But there was a reflection, so we'll have to see.
I made my way to Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. Every major Italian city has one of these to honor the first king of a united Italy since Theodoric the Ostrogoth. Vittorio Emanuele II was amiable, but mediocre and looked like a walrus. He had enough sense, however, to listen to his extraordinarily talented Prime Minister, Count Cavour--in case you were wondering about all the streets, metro stops etc. named Cavour.
Vittorio Emanuele II has another monument in Rome, and if you come here you will not be able to miss it no matter how much you may want to. It's huge and made of blindingly white marble. The thing looks like a megalomaniac's fever dream, and it fact it was conceived of and supervised by Mussolini himself (I think on the chance that if he honored a predecessor, his successor would lavishly honor him.).
I proceeded down the Corso because I wanted a particular street with a particular shop. On my previous trip I found it easily. This time I got all turned around and ended up in Piazza Venezia--which is not a bad place to end up. I started over. Got turned around again. I was on the wrong side of the street. Blah Blah.
I did end up at my desired destination. I was after some super duper lux Italian soap. A very charming and attractive young man waited on me and treated me like a duchess despite my travel worn appearance.
My purchase made, I went back to the Corso VE2 to find a bus that would take me to the train station. So when I didn't need the bus stop, I practically tripped over one on every block. When I wanted one they mysteriously disappeared, and anyway I was on the wrong side of the street.
I finally found one and the bus came quickly, and I had an interesting ride past some of Rome's major sites. I caught the Metro at Termini and walked home, and here I am having my apero with that rather nice rose I got yesterday. I'll have it with my pasta and bolognese sauce later on for dinner.
Ciao
Sunday, October 27, 2019
Napoli a Roma
Buon Giorno,
I'm home in Rome. Let me sink into my apero and relax. They remember me here from my stay about two years ago, and people seem really glad to see me, so that's nice.
Fortunately, I noticed the time change in the EU from daylight savings to standard on my cell phone and computer. I could have gotten all kinds of messed up from not realizing what had happened.
I had a quick, smooth trip although I had to manage my own bags this time, but in fact I did manage without injuring myself or anyone else.
The walk to the station was as usual except for my having to drag my bags and negotiate curbs and motorcycles.
I was on the fast train, and it actually left on time and arrived at Rome Termini early! I know the drill for the Metro--in fact I know it for many European capitals, and could probably handle any metro system in any city.
I was thrilled when I reached my stop. The escalators had been repaired and were working! I was dreading having to carry my bags up the stairs (and down again when I leave in three days), but all is well.
I felt relieved being back in my placid Rome neighborhood. The historic center of Rome is intense! But I'm on the outskirts. I checked in, dumped my bags, and walked back to the big supermarket at the fancy shopping mall across from the Metro. I laid in supplies for my short stay.
This particular store is a real supermarket with lots of good goodies, and I found everything I needed although I had to hunt around for it. Alas, my elderly, fragile digestion precludes trying a lot of enticing things.
Right now I'm having some crostini with prosciutto crudo and some Prosecco. I have options for my dinner. It will be pasta, but I can choose my sauce, and I have some rose to go with it. I also brought back the olive oil I bought in Naples. It was too good to throw away, but I did not want to drag a heavy glass bottle with me. I don't recommend treating olive oil this way normally, but I poured it into a plastic bottle and wrapped it in a plastic baggie against leaks.
I settled on Amatriciana, made with quick cooking capellini and prepared sauce from the cooler. I've had it before, and I like it. It's a Roman classic and goes well with the rose.
Ciao
I'm home in Rome. Let me sink into my apero and relax. They remember me here from my stay about two years ago, and people seem really glad to see me, so that's nice.
Fortunately, I noticed the time change in the EU from daylight savings to standard on my cell phone and computer. I could have gotten all kinds of messed up from not realizing what had happened.
I had a quick, smooth trip although I had to manage my own bags this time, but in fact I did manage without injuring myself or anyone else.
The walk to the station was as usual except for my having to drag my bags and negotiate curbs and motorcycles.
I was on the fast train, and it actually left on time and arrived at Rome Termini early! I know the drill for the Metro--in fact I know it for many European capitals, and could probably handle any metro system in any city.
I was thrilled when I reached my stop. The escalators had been repaired and were working! I was dreading having to carry my bags up the stairs (and down again when I leave in three days), but all is well.
I felt relieved being back in my placid Rome neighborhood. The historic center of Rome is intense! But I'm on the outskirts. I checked in, dumped my bags, and walked back to the big supermarket at the fancy shopping mall across from the Metro. I laid in supplies for my short stay.
This particular store is a real supermarket with lots of good goodies, and I found everything I needed although I had to hunt around for it. Alas, my elderly, fragile digestion precludes trying a lot of enticing things.
Right now I'm having some crostini with prosciutto crudo and some Prosecco. I have options for my dinner. It will be pasta, but I can choose my sauce, and I have some rose to go with it. I also brought back the olive oil I bought in Naples. It was too good to throw away, but I did not want to drag a heavy glass bottle with me. I don't recommend treating olive oil this way normally, but I poured it into a plastic bottle and wrapped it in a plastic baggie against leaks.
I settled on Amatriciana, made with quick cooking capellini and prepared sauce from the cooler. I've had it before, and I like it. It's a Roman classic and goes well with the rose.
Ciao
Saturday, October 26, 2019
Shopping in the Shadow of Vesuvius
Buon Giorno,
There's no getting away from him. He looms every time I turn around, and let me remind you he is an active volcano. The last time he erupted in any significant fashion was 1944--as if Mussolini, etc. wasn't enough. Italian geologists monitor the mountain very closely. Morbidly curious tourists can take a bus up to view the caldera. In fact Italy has several active volcanos, and the one most currently active is Etna on the island of Sicily, which erupts frequently (and did one year when I visited Florence.) but fortunately not catastrophically--at least not recently. The volcanos provide very fertile soil for the famous vineyards of Campania and Sicily, so they attract settlement nearby.
This is my last full day in Naples. I'm still a bit worn out from my exertions of yesterday, but today was an easy shopping day. I had a Metro ticket to use up, so I took Line One to a shopping area, but I planned to walk back window licking along the way. I had to take stairs down in the Metro. Clearly my knees have not forgiven me for yesterday.
My first stop was the bankomat of my bank's foreign partner. I have to buy my train ticket tomorrow for one thing. I wound my way down the narrow streets in the supposedly pedestrian zone. Watch out for the motor cycles and vans. A lot of tourists come here because the shops and restaurants along with the picturesque streets and buildings attract us.
I did spend some money, but I didn't want to load up too much as I do have to move back to Rome, and I don't want my bags to be heavy. I might not find kind people willing to heft them for me. But I had a pleasant wander, and it was nice not to be in a hurry or think I had to extend my efforts.
I felt I could not leave the city without trying a sfogliatella, a classic Neapolitan pastry. The pastry is crisp on the outside and has characteristic thin, leaf-like layers that crackle in a satisfying way when the eater bites into one. The interior is soft and creamy, filled with ricotta cheese and candied fruit. Like everything else in Naples, it's delicious and quite extravagant.
And what else would I have for my last evening meal in Naples? Why Pizza Margherita, of course! It is so very good. I love the fragrant chewy crust and the sweet-tart of the tomato sauce made with the locally sourced ingredients, The simplest meals are often the best when the ingredients are first rate. I always and especially enjoy eating in Italy for that reason, and I must say that Campania and the city do their country proud. I've actually spent more on wine this trip than I have on food or admissions to museums, and have enjoyed their lush flavors and how they pair so well with the food. I'll look for wines from Campania wines when I get home, but I fear they will not be the same.
But if you live in or visit the East Coast or any city with a "Little Italy" or can find a pizzeria with a wood fired stove, you can approximate my experience. To have the real deal, you have to come here--not exactly a hardship.
Naples is definitely a city for extraverts. If you gain energy from noise, crowds, and activity this is the place for you! People fill the streets, and they are not all tourists. They are Neapolitans chatting, haranguing each other, joking, shouting. Unfortunately they smoke, as well. And if I never see another motorcycle in my life, I would be best pleased--although the things they can carry and balance on those things is pretty amazing.
There's no getting away from him. He looms every time I turn around, and let me remind you he is an active volcano. The last time he erupted in any significant fashion was 1944--as if Mussolini, etc. wasn't enough. Italian geologists monitor the mountain very closely. Morbidly curious tourists can take a bus up to view the caldera. In fact Italy has several active volcanos, and the one most currently active is Etna on the island of Sicily, which erupts frequently (and did one year when I visited Florence.) but fortunately not catastrophically--at least not recently. The volcanos provide very fertile soil for the famous vineyards of Campania and Sicily, so they attract settlement nearby.
This is my last full day in Naples. I'm still a bit worn out from my exertions of yesterday, but today was an easy shopping day. I had a Metro ticket to use up, so I took Line One to a shopping area, but I planned to walk back window licking along the way. I had to take stairs down in the Metro. Clearly my knees have not forgiven me for yesterday.
My first stop was the bankomat of my bank's foreign partner. I have to buy my train ticket tomorrow for one thing. I wound my way down the narrow streets in the supposedly pedestrian zone. Watch out for the motor cycles and vans. A lot of tourists come here because the shops and restaurants along with the picturesque streets and buildings attract us.
I did spend some money, but I didn't want to load up too much as I do have to move back to Rome, and I don't want my bags to be heavy. I might not find kind people willing to heft them for me. But I had a pleasant wander, and it was nice not to be in a hurry or think I had to extend my efforts.
I felt I could not leave the city without trying a sfogliatella, a classic Neapolitan pastry. The pastry is crisp on the outside and has characteristic thin, leaf-like layers that crackle in a satisfying way when the eater bites into one. The interior is soft and creamy, filled with ricotta cheese and candied fruit. Like everything else in Naples, it's delicious and quite extravagant.
And what else would I have for my last evening meal in Naples? Why Pizza Margherita, of course! It is so very good. I love the fragrant chewy crust and the sweet-tart of the tomato sauce made with the locally sourced ingredients, The simplest meals are often the best when the ingredients are first rate. I always and especially enjoy eating in Italy for that reason, and I must say that Campania and the city do their country proud. I've actually spent more on wine this trip than I have on food or admissions to museums, and have enjoyed their lush flavors and how they pair so well with the food. I'll look for wines from Campania wines when I get home, but I fear they will not be the same.
But if you live in or visit the East Coast or any city with a "Little Italy" or can find a pizzeria with a wood fired stove, you can approximate my experience. To have the real deal, you have to come here--not exactly a hardship.
Naples is definitely a city for extraverts. If you gain energy from noise, crowds, and activity this is the place for you! People fill the streets, and they are not all tourists. They are Neapolitans chatting, haranguing each other, joking, shouting. Unfortunately they smoke, as well. And if I never see another motorcycle in my life, I would be best pleased--although the things they can carry and balance on those things is pretty amazing.
Friday, October 25, 2019
Certosa di San Martino and the Long Walk Home
Buon Giorno,
I am utterly shattered and recruiting my forces with some Greco di Tufo and Italian tuna. I went on a wine and water run this morning before touristing. It's good to have refreshment at hand.
Let's get the whining out of the way first. I metroed out to Vanvitelli up on Vomero Hill. I walked to the Certosa di San Martino, enjoyed my visit greatly and walked back to the metro, figuring I'd have an easier day given my exertions yesterday.
The Metro was shut down.
A quick look at my map showed me that if I took funiculars down I could reach a place from which I could walk home pretty easily.
The funiculars were shut down.
No buses in the area could take me where I needed to go. A few stopped at Metro stations, but they would do me no good. I decided to start walking and hope to find a bus or even if Line 2 Metro was working it would bring me home.
My map wasn't of big help. I decided that the crucial direction was down. I followed one street down until it ended and walked across. Then I came to a stairway. I took it down and down and down some more. It seemed endless and held at least three billion stairs (This is a conservative estimate.), and I was so glad that the predicted rain held off because I could picture myself slipping on the slick wet stairs. Down. More Down. My knees were screaming at me. Finally the stairs ran out, but there was a steep street--with lots of traffic, but in the distance I could see the dome of the Galleria Umberto I, which was near to where the funiculars would have taken me. I knew the way home from there. But I had to get to it first.
In all it took me nearly two hours to get home. Two hours of hard walking on rough surfaces and then dealing with motorcycles, vans, and crowds. It's never easy walking in Naples. But I'm home, and the apero is having its affect.
In the end Certosa di San Martino is a fantastic place to visit. It was a monastery, but you must not think it austere. I don't know what the monk's cells were like, but hoo boy, is the place sumptuous! The ceilings have marvelous frescos, some by Luca Giordano, whose work is prominently scattered throughout the city. Paintings by Juseppe Ribiera also adorn the church. He was a follower of Caravaggio, and his use of his master's techniques and sensibilities is particularly powerful. His Pieta is the altarpiece, but a very fine St. Sebastien is also displayed.
Don't miss the royal coaches! Or the Nativity scenes. Depicting the Nativity with figurines and a naturalistic setting is a Neapolitan art form. The gem of the collection is by Michele Cucineniello with over four hundred figures. It's a bit difficult to find Baby Jesus in that crowd, but it is really incredible and compelling.
And then the terraces provide fantastic views of the city, the Bay of Naples, and Vesuvius (because there's no getting away from him!). I enjoyed the views little knowing that I would soon be climbing down that way.
Cats may be a feature of Vomero. I guess they live in the museum, looking well cared for and certainly tame. A few were very hungry for human attention, so I had a duty to oblige.
When you travel--and I hope you will, ALWAYS carry a pack of tissue with you. Not all toilets renew the toilet paper regularly. You will have the need and the means if you follow this vital advice.
Ciao
I am utterly shattered and recruiting my forces with some Greco di Tufo and Italian tuna. I went on a wine and water run this morning before touristing. It's good to have refreshment at hand.
Let's get the whining out of the way first. I metroed out to Vanvitelli up on Vomero Hill. I walked to the Certosa di San Martino, enjoyed my visit greatly and walked back to the metro, figuring I'd have an easier day given my exertions yesterday.
The Metro was shut down.
A quick look at my map showed me that if I took funiculars down I could reach a place from which I could walk home pretty easily.
The funiculars were shut down.
No buses in the area could take me where I needed to go. A few stopped at Metro stations, but they would do me no good. I decided to start walking and hope to find a bus or even if Line 2 Metro was working it would bring me home.
My map wasn't of big help. I decided that the crucial direction was down. I followed one street down until it ended and walked across. Then I came to a stairway. I took it down and down and down some more. It seemed endless and held at least three billion stairs (This is a conservative estimate.), and I was so glad that the predicted rain held off because I could picture myself slipping on the slick wet stairs. Down. More Down. My knees were screaming at me. Finally the stairs ran out, but there was a steep street--with lots of traffic, but in the distance I could see the dome of the Galleria Umberto I, which was near to where the funiculars would have taken me. I knew the way home from there. But I had to get to it first.
In all it took me nearly two hours to get home. Two hours of hard walking on rough surfaces and then dealing with motorcycles, vans, and crowds. It's never easy walking in Naples. But I'm home, and the apero is having its affect.
In the end Certosa di San Martino is a fantastic place to visit. It was a monastery, but you must not think it austere. I don't know what the monk's cells were like, but hoo boy, is the place sumptuous! The ceilings have marvelous frescos, some by Luca Giordano, whose work is prominently scattered throughout the city. Paintings by Juseppe Ribiera also adorn the church. He was a follower of Caravaggio, and his use of his master's techniques and sensibilities is particularly powerful. His Pieta is the altarpiece, but a very fine St. Sebastien is also displayed.
Don't miss the royal coaches! Or the Nativity scenes. Depicting the Nativity with figurines and a naturalistic setting is a Neapolitan art form. The gem of the collection is by Michele Cucineniello with over four hundred figures. It's a bit difficult to find Baby Jesus in that crowd, but it is really incredible and compelling.
And then the terraces provide fantastic views of the city, the Bay of Naples, and Vesuvius (because there's no getting away from him!). I enjoyed the views little knowing that I would soon be climbing down that way.
Cats may be a feature of Vomero. I guess they live in the museum, looking well cared for and certainly tame. A few were very hungry for human attention, so I had a duty to oblige.
When you travel--and I hope you will, ALWAYS carry a pack of tissue with you. Not all toilets renew the toilet paper regularly. You will have the need and the means if you follow this vital advice.
Ciao
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