Visiting the Tourist Office

 

Goden Dag.

It's my day to have my room done,and who knows when that will happen? I'm tired having put inn more than 11K steps today, so I've done something I seldom do. I brought a snack of olives and almonds and my computer down to the lounge/bar for my aperitivo. There's no bartender, Citadines depends on its residents honesty.I bought myself a Belgian beer, and mighty refreshing it is too.

Now I'mgoingto watch the Team Presentation for the Tour de France. It starts tomorrow in Barcelona and promises to be a terrific contest. I could go on and on about it, but I'll spare you.

 began my day with a trip to the grocery store. I especially wanted more of that lovely Beemster cheese, but I searched for it in vain. I got some Gouda instead, and one can't really go wrong with Dutch cheese. Should you find yourself in Amsterdam and crave cheese, you cannot escape it. Cheese shops are everywhere!

For all that walking I did not accomplish much today, but that's about to change. I have been trying to buy an Amsterdam Card on line, which will give me free admission to sites and allow me to book my entry day and time. Most of the major sites in Amsterdam require this, and it's common in many European capitals. I approve of the system, especially for visitors to Anne Frank's House because previously wait times would be two or three hours.

But though I tried multiple times to buy my desired card, my request was rejected. The only thing left for me was to go to the tourist office called I am Amsterdam at the Station Centraal. You can see the neo Gothic station abaove.

Aayway, I found the tourist office and expressed my desire. The nice young ladies at the service desk said the product was available only on line. I explained the proble and we messed around on my phone--to no avail. It simply did not work.  Eventually, instead of the card I wanted, I got a three day card that also includes public transportation. I'll probably not use it much because I come to Europe to walk. I certainly appreciated the time and trouble the young ladies took for me.

Then I strolled around the city. I went to the Dam Square. I passed the major department store of the city. I used to go in to yse the toilet, but I still had to pay. The name means bee hive.

Even the shopping malls in Amsterdam are in historic buildings

                                                

Here is the royal palace. The Family lives at the Hague, so tourists can visit this building, and I intend to.

A family has come to take advantage of the lounge. The children are noisy, so I can barely hear my computer.  They are having lunch and behaving normally, so I''ll just have to deal. And once they left, the vacuuming began. The guy did such a thorough long-lasting job that I did not hear much of the Team Presentation. And my room is not yet done, and I have no idea when it will be.

Tot Ziens

Land o' Cheese and Herring

 

Goden Dag

I went to the grocery store yesterday afternoon. Among my takings was some solid Dutch bread and Beemster Cheese. The latter is a smooth semi hard cows milk cheese that makes a great breakfast.

The weather has turned. I left my hotel, then realized, yep. I had better take an umbrella and went back for it. I was soon glad as it began to drizzle and then pour. Where I'm from this would be called a storm. In Amsterdam it's Thursday.  I'd decided to visit two markets. The photo above is of Prinzengracht just down the street from me. I'm fascinated by the houseboats. Some are for rent as accommodation, but I wouldn't want to stay in one alone.

First stop was the Bloemenmarkt. It's very touristy, but this is Amsterdam's famous flower market. Tulip season is over, but the place is still worth a visit. They will happily sell you all sorts of flower-related goods and souvenirs.  Bins of bulbs and packets of seeds abound. Now these would be promptly confiscated at my port of entry probably found out by seed sniffing dogs.  The wooden tulips are cute, and I may bring some back.

I strolled around the canals licking windows and getting pelted by rain. Fortunately it was not cold, but I could have done without the wind. By this time I needed a toilet, and I did not want to pay, so I made my way home. I soon set out again for market number two.  But here's the thing. I took my phone out of my purse to recharge it, and then forgot it. I will be returning to Albert Cuyp Market and will take a photo, but in the meantime I put a photo of my takings below.

The market is famous and very, very touristy--something that did not bother me as I am a tourist. It's an extensive and interesting place. Most of the stands are food, but you can find souvenirs, jewelry, clothes, and various novelties. Most tourists come for the stroopwaffels, which are wafers filled with caramel. But if you want Greek, or Middle Eastern, or chicken nuggets, these are also on offer.

I was after something specific--a hareng brodje, which is a sandwich with pickled herring, onions, and pickles. The pickled herring is beloved by the Dutch, and I like it, too. They eat it straight. I prefer it in sandwich form. The place I went to also offered frites, so I got some of those as well.  I also visited a stand offering Mediterranean food and bought some olives.  Here you go.

What can exceed the bliss of biting into a Dutch style frite, rendered even more unhealthful by having been dipped in mayonnaise?  I think this is one of those things that works well only on its native soil--The Netherlands and Belgium,  When you're here don't be squeamish. Try it!

The herring has a distinct fishy flavor. It would be too strong for me all by itself, but it works nicely in sandwich.

Tot Ziens

An Unexpected Journey

 Wait! Pil, you plan these trips months in advance. How can your journey be unexpected?

My plans changed when I got an email from the airline explaining the plane was broken and the flight was canceled. I learned this the day before I left, but they rebooked me pretty quickly. Instead of flying non stop from LAX to Amsterdam, I was rerouted to Seattle on Alaska Airlines and from thence to Amsterdam on Delta. My wonderful travel agent called me up to make sure this was all right with me. It was.

I'm not used to flying domestically. I was put into First Class on Alaska, which sounds really exciting until one realizes their short haul product is more like Premium Economy. It was very comfortable and the head flight attendant was a hoot. I'd counted on getting into the lounge for a snack, but my flight wasn't long enough so I didn't get in. I was offered a welcome drink on board. I had some sparkling wine--in a paper cup. How inelegant. Wine on an empty stomach isn't a good idea, and I couldn't finish it. I had preordered the fruit and cheese plate, and I was so ravenous I ate it all up without taking a picture.

To get to my connection I took two short subway rides. When I arrived at my gate boarding had started, and I was soon settled into my Delta One Suite--an experience I can warmly recommend to anyone.

                                                

Behold my amenity kit--Orange because we were going to the Netherlands, my bowl of warm salted nuts and some vintage champagne. This time served properly.

The starter was First Rate! Some lovely tomato/basil soup, salad, smoked salmon and roll and butter. YUM! And more champagne, of course. The main course was chicken, mashed potato and mushrooms.

Here's breakfast--quiche, sausages, croissant, granola with strawberry compote and tea. I didn't eat much of it even though it was good.

My plane was not offered a gate and jet way, and we waited for the platform and steps for half an hour, much to the irritation of the pilot. A bus took us to the terminal where we found the automatic doors shut tight, so our bus driver had to go and hunt someone down to open it. Passport control was quick. They didn't seem to use EES or else I was already in the system so they didn't care. My bag came out quickly, too.

I had determined to take public transportation into town. I got my ticket from the machine and found my train. Fortunately Amsterdam's train and metro systems are plentifully provided with lifts, so I had no problems. Once at the Central Station I found the metro, got my ticket. found the line I needed--and got on the train going in the wrong direction. No fear. At the next stop I got out and walked over to the other platform. My ticket was good for an hour so this wasn't cheating.

At the stop I got out. I'd written down directions, but they were not helpful. I resorted to my phone. I was on the right side of the street, but for some reason the phone told me to cross to the other side where I was lost and puzzled. A group of girls came along, and I asked if they could help me. It turned out they were Americans, who insisted on walking me to my hotel and helping me with my luggage. Just lovely people as many Americans are!

So I'm here and settled in albeit jet lagged out of my mind and dehydrated. I'll go exploring tomorrow.

Tot Ziens

Journeying Home

 Guten Tag,

I'm back in Frankfurt waiting at my gate to board. There's a hot dog stand right across from me--constantly busy. I love the real Frankfurters, but I'm resisting because they gave me a good breakfast on the flight here, and I will be fed well on the plane.

I packed up and left very early and went out to wait for my cab. I was concerned because down the street was a huge vehicle blocking the road while it was doing some kind of mysterious maintenance. A delivery man showed up on his motorcycle. Someone from my hotel had ordered something at 5 a.m. and did not have the courtesy to meet the delivery guy. He and I chatted while he waited for his customer, and I waited for my cab. It was late.

Then the cabbie showed up sans vehicle. He apologized because he couldn't get to me because the street was blocked. He parked elsewhere and came to fetch me. We had a quick trip to the airport because it was 5:15 and the streets were empty. Dude deserved a tip. I gave him one.

Then check in and security and a nice flight here. There were only two of us in Business, so we got a lot of kind attention from the charming flight attendant. I scarfed up the breakfast as I was hungry by then.

Once on the ground we had a long bus ride to terminal 1. And I felt like I hiked half way across Germany to get to the Z gates. I had to do the EES thing (passport scan, fingerprints, photo) using a machine. It wasn't bad. Then a line for passport control where I had to do the EES thing over again--because???

Then more long walk, but I'm here and boarding is soon. I get to be among the first to get on.

One thing I've noticed flying business class on several airlines that (except for Delta) the flights back have used older, less cool planes than the flight out. Why is that? Cool planes fly out of LAX. Why not back in. Anyway the seat was OK, less comfortable than the outward journey, and my seat mate was guy who snored. But we had an excellent flight attendant and some good food. I began with an Avionic and some almonds. I also got another nice amenity kit.

                                                

Here is my starter. Note the fancy smoked trout, the horseradish sauce and the roasted vegetables. I drank Champagne with it.

Here is my main meal. The asparagus and potatoes were lovely. The veal tough and dry. I had a bite and then concentrated on the vegetables. Oh and another glass of Champagne. I turned down desert and did not take a picture of the arrival meal, which was really good. It called itself Tapas and there was 
Spanish ham and cheese, olives, roasted peppers and macarons. I had tea with this.

I look Lyft home, and my driver and I were bedeviled by a nut case in a blg black Cadillac.  But I'm home safe--just miserably jet lagged.

Ciao for now

Adoro Verona

 

Buon giorno,

My last day is here because I have a very early flight tomorrow. The kind young lady at reception has booked a taxi for me.  It's about half an hour to the airport, and I have given myself plenty of time to get through security. I won't face EES until I reach Frankfurt.

I took the opportunity to make another circuit of this fascinating city. I did leave the historic center and made two big loops around it. I also like walking along the river. I live in Southern California. Seeing freely flowing water seems like a miracle every time I view it.

I crossed bridges and walked down familiar and unfamiliar streets, liking windows as I walked.

At Piazza Bra there's a small park dedicated to Vittorio Emmanuele II the first king of a united Italy. Here's his statue.  And let's say this does not show truth in advertising--or history. Dude looked like a walrus and evidently was so unrefined that his own Prime Minister avoided spending time with him.

But he made a great figurehead.

I more than made my step count, and I was tired and foot sore. so I'm glad to have a chance to relax before packing up. I've had my apero of green olives and mortadella washed down with a generous amount of Prosecco.

Dinner is linguine with Sugo all' Amatriciana, which is not optimal with Prosecco, but it's good enough.

If you are thinking of visiting Italy for the first time, consider Verona. Of course, everyone wants to see Rome and Florence and for good reason. They are wonderful--but also overwhelming. Verona is doable and simply delightful. It's a beautiful and friendly city, very walkable with worthwhile sights and excellent food and drink. It would be a good warm up for the major cities.

Ciao for now

Exploring Veronetta and a Walk in the Park

Buon giorno,

So it's Monday and a lot of tourist sites are closed. Moreover, there's a train strike, so I decided what I needed--given the weather is nice--is a good long walk, and I found a park to take it in.  I learned that the section of the city north of the Adige is called Veronetta and the hills bore walls that protected the city. I made my way there and took the funicular up.

I ran into a friendly Austrian couple and their handsome beagle. They were from Vienna, and I was happy to praise their city and very grateful no one seems to resent my being from the United States.

Once up the hill I found signs directing me to Il Parco del Muro or the Park of the Wall. It was up hill and the path was rough. Not really a place for an old lady, but I did stroll around. 

                                                

I came down again and followed the road down through several switchbacks,  I had no idea where I was, but I have been in this situation before, and I've found the best thing is to keep going. I figured if I kept going down, eventually I'd come to the river, and so it proved. In fact I fetched up beside the funicular entrance.

I crossed the Adige on the Ponte Pietra, which I learned was a Roman bridge that has been lovingly maintained. Foot and bike traffic only.  I made my way back to the center of town. On my way out, I'd passed a souvenir shop that featured something I wished to give to a non-blog reader.  It look some searching around to find the place again, but I did and made my purchase.  One of the pleasures of travel is sharing with others.

                                                                

Of course I passed many outdoor cafes and restaurants where people were enjoying their Aperol Spritzes. Europeans generally have a bite when they drink, and the bite of choice for apero is--potato chips. Really. I have been told before that I'm making this up, but my eyes don't lie. They are crisp and salty, so good?

But all that walking! I felt I'd earned some gelato and went to get it. I frequent a place where there is almost always a line. This is good sign. Once again I had chocolate, amarena, and nocchiola.  Ooh. Heaven comes close to Earth. But that's a lot of sugar, so I'm going to have to stop now.

But I was worn out, so I took my gelato home.

But I'm still having dinner, which today is risotto milanese in the microwave, and it's come out remarkably good. OK not as good as fresh made, but still--all right.

Ciao for now

A Palazzo and Some Shopping

 Buon giorno,

The weather has turned sunny and warm. I ended up just wearing a short sleeved t-shirt--along with my pants of course.  And it was warm enough that I treated myself to gelato. To my favorites hazelnut and amarena, I added a rich chocolate. The perfect combination. All three favors were divine. Be advised. Gelato is not the same as ice cream. Enough non-Italians crave the stuff, so that it's become available elsewhere--even in the United States.

I ran into a community marathon. One of the receptionists warned me, so I was not surprised to see runners. What did surprise me was the crowd of walkers--of all ages and some with their dogs. They looked to be having a grand time, and it was most pleasant to see.

I did do something touristy besides eating gelato. The Museo Miniscalchi Erizzo is not well known and has limited visiting hours. It's housed in a Renaissance building and is packed with art treasures of all sorts as the family were avid collectors.  The cases hold everything from antiquities to Renaissance statuettes, to natural history, to weapons, and the walls are full of some very nice paintings. There are a few period rooms with some very lovely furniture.

Then I went strolling around. I got my gelato and picked up a few things. I did not quite make my 10K step goal, but I got around a lot and even found some Roman remains I'd not seen before.  

As always on my wanderings I was struck by the beauty and charm of Verona. Judging by the crowds on the streets and the languages I heard it's become a popular destination.

I'm not drinking Prosecco for a change but I sparkling wine called Ribolla Gialla. It's Ok. I'd never heard of it, but no surprise. It's not as good as Prosecco. Dinner is linguine with the last of the pesto. So good. Earlier I'd eaten some tuna, so I've had sufficient protein.

Ciao for now

Brescia: Misadventures in Transporation

 Buon giorno,

My trip back was smooth, but getting to Brescia was a bit fraught. I wanted to take day trips, and finally the weather cooperated. It was a bit chilly, and it rained when I was on the bus but otherwise it was dry and sunny.

Brescia was recommended as a day trip from Verona because it's easy to get to (Ha!) and had a pleasant historic center.  Trains are frequent. I'd already got my city bus tickets and scouted out the bus stop. I set out early. A bus came along that listed the station as a stop. I got on. Bad choice. It did take me to the train station--eventually--but I got a tour of the Veronese suburbs. Then the driver stopped and messed around with the bus controls and took a break and had a snack. When we resumed the journey we went back the way we came. I was thinking I'd better get off when the next stop was the station.

Then we were met by the transportation police who were checking I.D.s and tickets. Of course, I had a ticket . . . . I just couldn't find it!  I showed her my passport. I think because I was a foreigner, she figured I was telling the truth about the ticket, and actually she was the one who spotted it. One of her colleagues had a machine that showed I'd validated it. She teased me a little (which I deserved) and told me to keep the ticket in my pocket next time. This I did.

Then I was confused in the train station. I tried to use a machine to buy a ticket. It wanted a lot of personal information, but rejected my email address. Then I got in line at the ticket office. Someone told me that I had to take a number. I found the machine and got a number. A kindly Italian woman who spoke no English, took me by the arm and led me to the line. It moved quickly. I got a ticket and off to the train.

It was an express to Milano calling at Brescia. I found a nice window seat and enjoyed looking at the lush green Italian countryside.  The conductor came around. Uh oh. My ticket was not valid on this fancy express train. He was actually pretty nice about it, but I had to get off at the next stop and wait. Fortunately not for long.  The pleb train was packed, and I had to stand, but that was all right. The trip wasn't long.

Brescia is nicely sign posted, so I walked to the town center Piazza di Vittoria. I also snooted around a nearby market, but it was mostly clothes and household wares. Brescia's center is very pleasant, but there wasn't a lot to keep me there, so I took the metro back to the station.

And here I am at home.  While at the train station we were informed of a train strike, But I can get to my next destination by bus. I won't like this but Imma do it.

Ciao for now

Verona in Some Pelting Rain

                                                         

Buon giorno,

Only one photo today--a view from Porta Nuova that I crossing going to and from the National Archaeological Museum of Verona. I happen to enjoy looking at Prehistoric remains, but I realize this is not for everyone.

When I set out it was pouring and chilly. I found my target and then my umbrella malfunctioned. I couldn't close it!  The nice men at the museum assured me that it was fine to leave it open as I visited the museum. I left my bags in a locker and proceeded upstairs.

Now it happens that this area with its rivers valleys and proximity to the Alps, has been a favored spot for human habitation starting with the Neanderthals. They co-existed with Homo Sapiens for a while. At any rate the collection is rich and varied from the Mousterian right up until Roman occupation.

The artifacts are well exhibited, and I appreciated the informative placards explaining what was in the cases. One thing I found especially fascinating was the rocks painted with ochre or engraved with figures of animals.

When I emerged it was still raining hard, and it was cold. I came home and managed to close my umbrella. Whew! If I couldn't close it, I would not be able to pack it. I made myself a cup of tea and turned oin the bike race.

Yes, amici, it's Il Giro d'Italia--a crucial stage with a steep long climb to finish. I do not know how the riders manage to get themselves up hills, I'd be hard pressed to climb on foot.  The crummy weather also is infesting the South of Italy where the race is now. Slippery roads are dangerous roads.  But the stage may do much to establish the eventual winner.

Pil, you understand that most people regard your passion for European road cycling as bizaare.

I do understand, and I don't care.  Jonas Vingegaard may be on the verge of winning All Three Grand Tours. But apart from the actual race, a helicopter flies around showing us the gorgeous Italian countryside plus any historic spots the race is near.  This encourages tourism. Some of us do not need such encouragement. 

Dinner is linguine with pesto. So simple and yet so divine. When the hot pasta hits the pesto the scent of the basil rises. Oooh!

Ciao for now.

Out and About in Verona

 

Buon giorno,

I had planned to go on a day trip, but the forecast was for bad weather, so I didn't. As it happened all we got was a little light rain, and I could have gone without a problem. I had prepared, too. I went to a Tabachi for bus tickets. The man spoke little English. That's ok. I speak very little Italian, but I managed to make my wants understood. The man laughed a little and told me my Italian was enough, He said this in Italian, and I understood.  I also scouted out the nearest bus stop. Oh well. There's always tomorrow.

I had one more church on my inclusive ticket so I made may way to San Fermo. The martyrs Fermo and Rustico were killed on the banks of the Adige, and a church dedicated to them was built in the Fourth Century. That church is long gone, but I visited the Benedictine Monastery (later run by the Franciscans) built in the Tenth and Eleventh Centuries. If you ever find yourself in Verona, do not miss these churches. Everyone of them is magnificent, and you will find yourself enraptured by the beauty and history.

San Fermo comes in two parts. There's a lower church which is pure Romanesque. Like other churches in Verona it displays remarkably well preserved frescos.

Climb the stairs to the upper church, which was advertised as Gothic. It's not. It's in the Renaissance Style with some Baroque add ons, and it is gorgeous. As with the other churches I opted for the audio guide and found it very helpful and informative.

The skies had cleared when I emerged, so I strolled around seeing parts of the historic center I had not seen before. Verona is so beautiful that just walking around is a pleasure.

But I also had a goal. I determined to return to that fun food store to obtain goodies. This I did. I came away with some more pasta--some for me and some for a non-blog reader. I also got some goat cheese--a big old hunk, and a local sausage. As these all featured first class ingredients, it cost me, but when I'm on a trip indulgence is my middle name.

And speaking of indulgence, I supplemented my usual apero of olives and almonds with Bresaola. This is cured beef from the Valtellina on the borders of Switzerland. If it exists in the United States, it's hard to find and expensive. That's why I'm eating it here and now.

For dinner I broke into the bag of short pasta, shell-like shape called lunache. This is made exclusively from wheat grown in the Veneto and is made according to traditional methods including using a bronze extruder. I've dressed it with some jarred sauce I got from the store--Amatriciana--which is from Central Italy. Italians use much less sauce on pasta than Americans typically do. I used the Italian way, and it's very good.  I'm using high quality pasta, so I need to let it shine through.

Ciao for now

San Zeno: A Romanesque Marvel

 

Buon giorno,

The basilica of San Zeno is a good ways away from the heart of the historic center, and I found it completely worth the trip.  For example I passed the Castelvecchio and had to keep going for quite a while winding through some smaller streets. Because I'd got the combined ticket at the Duomo, I was able to get in without paying anything extra and received an informative audioguide.

But first some history--you knew it was coming. Zeno apparently was a North African who lived in the Fourth Century. We don't know how he ended up in Verona, but it seems he took monastic vows there.  Eventually he was elected bishop of the city and was instrumental in converting Arians back to orthodox Catholicism. He is the patron saint of the City of Verona, and the people built a fitting tribute to his service and virtues.

I don't understand why the churches in Verona are not more famous. They are wonderful and feature not just the red veronese mable, but a lot of very well preserved frescos as well.  San Zeno is no exception. Yes, it's a pretty long walk out, but if you have any interest in Medieval Architecture or Art, it is worth the trip.

Here's the Romanesque nave. Note the round arches, heavy looking supporting pillars, and the interesting wood ceiling.

I confess, I love the Romanesque, and most of the Medieval churches mix styles. In San Zeno the only Gothic "contamination" is a rose window added in the Fourteenth Century. The rest is pure, and the design of the church is harmonious and substantial. The decoration, of course, comes from many periods, and there's a notable Renaissance altarpiece by Mantegna.

                                    The apse and the high altar with the famous altarpiece.

In other news, bad weather has hit Il Giro d'Italia. The Tour of Italy is a major bike race and the riders are in the mountains being soaked, and the roads are slippery and visibility is limited. Rider safety needs to take priority! The race has already seen some devastating crashes.

Pil, you and those bike races. You have no idea how obnoxious this is.

I'm well aware--I just don't care.

Also that market I loved on Piazza Bra. It was a special and temporary exhibition featuring regional products, which explains everything, but now I'm kicking myself for not taking more advantage of it.

Ciao for now

Up and Down Again

 Buon giorno,

I don't know which weather forecast to believe. They contradict each other. Rain was in the forecast for today, but it turned out sunny and warm, which was fine with me since I was out and about.

Occupying a commanding position on a hill across the Adige is Castel San Pietro.  It looks really cool, but unfortunately it is not open to tourists. Nevertheless, a stroll through town leaving the historic center for a more real neighborhood, will take the visitor, i.e. me, to the Porta Pietra. You can enjoy the view above.

It is possible to climb to the Castel, and many younger and fitter people do that. I took the funicular and got a discount for being old. I get a huge kick out of riding funiculars, but this one was pretty short. At the top is a cafe and viewpoint. I was also grateful to find a free toilet, since I was determined to walk down.

I expected scenic paths. What I got was a zillion stairs. This reminded me of my adventure in Naples some years ago. My knees have never forgiven me. But this was all right. I took it slowly and eventually arrived at street level.

My next target was the Roman Theatre.

But Pil, you saw this already.

No. I visited the amphitheatre, which is enclosed. A Greek--or in this case Roman--theatre is open on one side. Confusion about this is common, but I taught Art History, so I have no excuse. I stopped on the street to consult my map, and a very kind older woman decided to help me. I actually understood what she said to me in Italian, but she quickly switched to English. It's these little acts of kindness that make traveling so fulfilling.

Once at the theatre, which was just down the street,  I got a discount for being old once again, but this sight was difficult for me and not that interesting. I made my way back stopping at some gourmet food stores to snoot around.

I hoped to get some foccacia at the market, but when I arrived at Piazza Bra, no market was to be found!  I can try again some other day. It would probably help if I googled which days it operated.

Because I enjoy limoncello, and I can get the exact same brand I had in Sicily at my local Trader Joe's, I decided I needed to try the Northern Italian version from Lago de Garda. It's called Limoncino. Let's have a sip. Hmmm. It's good. There is a distinct different from limoncello, but I can't put my finger on it. I think my fellow citizens would like this if it were available in the USA. I'd never heard of it though.

Ciao for now.

Ecclesiastical Splendor

 

Buon giorno,

To be frank, I am OLD, and I have been touristing pretty hard the last few days. I'm tired, so I gave myself a slightly easier, but satisfying day visiting a couple of old churches because it's Monday and all the other museums are closed.

Old churches sounds dull, Pil.

I'm afraid I did not advertise the targets correctly. Magnificent. Marvelous. Jaw Dropping Wonders is more like it. And I'll confess that I did not realize Verona held such treasures, but once I thought about it, it made sense. The city has been important and wealthy for a long time. So my advice is to ignore those crazy kids Romeo and Juliet and focus on some real history and art.

Rain is once again in the forecast. When I was out it was dry and just a little cool. I went to the grocery store and found that my room was being done when I returned. I actually appreciate this.  I get out early, and I get back early. Did I mention I'm old?  

Anyway I set out for the Duomo and promptly got lost. Il Duomo is the Cathedral of the City, i.e. the seat of the bishop, and this one is dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin. This means she was taken from the tomb and arose into heaven. I do not panic at being lost having experienced this more times than I can count. I knew the general direction. I had a map. I kept going, and arrived.

You can see the facade of the cathedral and its Romanesque and Gothic elements.

The churches charge admission, and this time I see the sense of it. The money goes for the maintenance of the building, and the visitor gets an audio guide. I got a discount for being old.  If you ask me Il Duomo is a MUST SEE in Verona. I was overwhelmed by its splendor, and I have seen a LOT of incredible churches. What we have here is a Romanesque foundation with some Gothic elements and a lot of Renaissance and Baroque decoration. Verona's true art treasures are in her churches. I saw wonderful frescos and moving paintings and sculptures. The decoration is not quite horror vacui, but it comes close. 

Then I strolled down to Santa Anastasia. Its nave is the largest in Verona, and the church is remarkably uniform and harmonious in design. It makes great use of red Verona marble for example in the pavement and columns. It is also packed with art treasures. Hello, Titian! A very informative audio guide is provided.

I ended up feeling overwhelmed and yet satisfied. I made my way slowly home though the throngs of school groups and guided tours.

Ciao for now

Un Giardino Molto Bello

 

Buon giorno,

Rain was in the forecast for the afternoon, but it arrived early. No worries.  I always carry an umbrella, and it's warm.  It was also dry when I set out for Il Giardino Giusti. I left the historic center for a more real people neighborhood and crossed the Adige. I easily found my target and obtained a ticket.  

The garden is the main attraction, but there are also period rooms--my favorite!  The Giusti Family were wool merchants from Tuscany and originally used the land for textile production.  In the Sixteenth Century Agostino Guisti, having achieved a noble status, required a palazzo to reflect it. The family and its subsequent members were people of taste as well as wealth, and I think the palazzo and garden are my favorite sight in Verona so far. I'll let the photos tell the tale.

                                            

It was even more gorgeous in person.

Apero consists of meaty green olives--described as dolce, which I guess means not too salty? and the usual almonds and Prosecco. For anyone interested good Prosecco is easily obtained in the United States. Look for a DOP designation. It should not be expensive. If you come across a pricey Prosecco, leave it on the shelf and keep looking.  I also obtained some prosciutto de San Daniele. OK not from the Veneto, but the ultimate in Parma style ham. You can find this in the United States, but it's expensive.

Dinner is ravioli with ricotta and herbs, dressed with garlic and doused with olive oil. It's good, especially when accompanied with Prosecco.

Ciao for now