Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga

 Bom Dia,

My AC adaptor broke, so I'm running on limited battery power, and I'm not going to post tomorrow.  All I'm doing is shopping and packing anyway.  My flight leaves really early on Tuesday morning, so the proprietor kindly arranged to have me picked up by a taxi.  I can do a lot of things on my phone fortunately, so I'll be fine.  I just can't blog.

Today I went to the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga--old art as opposed to Modern or Contemporary Art. Getting there was easy, once I figured out the map on my phone.  I took bus 760.  I had the idea that I'd seen the museum from the tram, and I spotted it so I knew where to get off. Of course, then I was confronted by some stairs, but at the top was a pretty pocket park and my museum.

It's big and very nice.  The lighting is excellent and the exhibits don't feel crowded.  A lot of people showed up later, but I never felt the place was packed.  I strolled around leisurely.  It's mostly paintings and objets d'art.  Portugal has a long history of contacts with Asia, and they still have Macau, I think, in case you want to go gambling near Hong Kong.  I mention this because I have been blown away in many of the museums I've visited by the gorgeous Ming and Qing Dynasty porcelains and screens.  Most of them are huge, too.  I could almost fit inside myself.

I viewed the Portuguese paintings.  I enjoyed them and noted some influences from Flanders and Italy, but I did not recognize any names.  They are mostly devotional in nature, but there's the occasional portrait.  I went on the extensive collection of painters from the rest of Europe.  They even have a St. Jerome by the notorious Protestant Albrecht Durer.  Lots of St. Jeromes by the way.  He's popular in Lisbon.  I saw some striking works by the Spaniard Ribiera.  The works are arranged chronologically by style, and one can see a gradual fading of religious works in favor of portraits and landscapes.  So I had a happy wander though this fabulous museum.

Then I decided to be cute.  I didn't want to go back down the stairs and believed I could pick up a bus that would take me to Praca do Comercial.  Such a bus does exist--and it came--late--and refused to open its doors to me.  I got into a conversation with a couple of gentlemen at the stop.  Their bus wasn't running at all on Sundays!  And they suggested I walk down hill to get a tram.  Usually public transportation in Lisbon is very reliable, but something must have been going on because I didn't see any trams running and the next bus was scheduled to arrive in 90 minutes.  I decided to keep going.  I knew there was a metro station at the train station so I headed there.  It was a longish walk, but the metro brought me right to my home station.

There's rain the forecast for this afternoon and all week.  I am having apero of green tea and cheese.  I intend to pick up some good goodies to bring home.

Adeus!

Casa-Museu Medeiros e Almeida

 Bom Dia,

Actually there's a twofer because I also visited a park.  But first--dessert!  Portugal's national pastry and Lisbon's favorite is Pasteis de nata.  It originated in Belem, and there's a famous shop there, but pastries of all sorts are ubiquitous in Lisbon and not just in the tourist zone.  I pass a big, fancy one on my way to and from the metro, so when I came back, I stopped in and obtained one.  If you have ever had an English "Maid of Honor" you are thinking along the right lines.

Shall we have a bite?

You always say "we" and yet you never share.

Too hard to do so through the screen.  We have tender flakey pastry surrounding a custard filling.  You can get them in flavors, but I think the basic custard is really good.  A bit eggy and not too sweet.

I took the metro to Marques de Pombal, the metro stop so called because there's a big monument to him in a roundabout.  He's definitely one of Portugal's national heroes.  I had never heard of him until I came here and learned about his efforts at earthquake relief.  He came up with a lot of creative solutions.

I came early deliberately because I wanted to stroll in Lisbon's biggest city park, Eduardo VII.  Yes, it was named in honor of King Edward VII after he visited to renew the ancient alliance made way back in the Middle Ages between England and Portugal.  I had a pleasant time walking under the shade trees and enjoying the green space.

But then it was time to attend the museum.  I fetched up in Bougie Land with a lot of banks, luxury hotels, and designer shops.  I found the museum with no problem and got a senior discount. No one wants to see my passport. They take my word for it that I'm old. Sigh.

It's a lovely museum, and I had it all to myself.  Senhor Medeiros e Almeida was born into wealth and made even bigger bucks as a car dealer.  He described his "disease of collecting," but if this is sickness we need more of it.

I was hoping for period rooms--which I got, but the museum also features a fine collection of Late Medieval wood carvings, snuff boxes, jewelry and an amazing array of watches and clocks.  In one room was an exhibit of European fans complete with an explanation of "fan language."  The table in the dinning room is set with a dinner set that once belonged to Napoleon.  I also appreciated the beautiful Chinoiserie from the Ming and Qing Dynasties.  The period rooms are lovely and well set up more or less chronologically.  This is definitely worth a visit.

Now that we have had dessert, it's time for apero.  I have some rose and that soft cheese I have come to love. I toast some bread and it melts on top so I can spread it.  Yum!

Bye for now

Sorry

 Bom Dia,

I am over seventy and my digestion can be fragile, so I am not well today and did not go out.  I should be fine tomorrow.

Museu Calouste Gulbenkian

 Bom Dia,

I came to the right place.  The Iberian Peninsula has low Covid rates, and Portugal is doing better than Spain. The rest of Western Europe?  Not so much.  Bright red on the Covid Color Scale.

Lovers of fine art who will visit Lisbon, the Museu Calouste Gulbenkian is the place to come.  The impressive collection would turn the curators of the British Museum green with envy.  What's your fancy? Everything from paintings to statuary, to furniture, to rugs, to tapestries, illuminated manuscripts, ceramics from Western Europe to East Asia in various periods is on offer.

I took the metro finding it a refreshing change from trams and busses.  It's a lot faster.  I went to get my day pass and a couple asked me if I spoke English.  They were having a hard time figuring out the machine, so of course I helped them because we denizens of Lisbon are Nice!  It turned out we were headed to the same place, so I hung around while the poor husband kept messing up the metro gate.  He had to go back and back to get more tickets several times.  But when it came down to it, I took the train in the wrong direction and had to double back.  I got off at my stop and then had no idea where to go.  My first guess was wrong, so I turned around and headed across the Praca do Espanha.  I didn't see anything promising, so I asked a lady.  She didn't speak English, but she recognized the name of the museum and pointed me in the right direction.  The People of Lisbon are Nice!

Something was going on there--not in the museum itself, but in the attached institute.  All kinds of police cars, press, and a lot of important looking men in suits.  Never mind them.  We have art to view.

Calouste Gulbenkian of Armenian descent liked spending his money on fine arts and was a collector of outstanding taste and wide and varied interests.  A visit to the museum is like a walk though of Art History.  You can find Egyptian and Greco Roman Works.  I was especially fascinated by the Islamic collection of rugs and gorgeous ceramics.

Art from India and the Far East is also to be seen.  There's a marvelous exhibit of porcelain vases from the Qing Dynasty, and all of them are exquisite.  Then I moved on to European Art starting with some Late Medieval ivory carvings and illuminated manuscripts in the form of Books of Hours.

You would recognize many of the names of the painters whose works are on show.  How about Rembrandt and Rubens?  There are portraits by Van Dyke and Thomas Gainsborough.  If you like Impressionists you can mind, Manet, Monet and Mary Cassat.

I'm leaving out the statuary, but I liked the furniture.  I prefer period rooms, they arranged pieces of the same style and period together so it was almost like one.  Lovers of Art Nouveau will appreciate the exhibit of Rene Lalique.  Most of it was to clunky for my taste, but I did take a fancy to a couple of tiaras.

When I emerged it had turned hot, and I was in an area of broad streets and scary traffic with lots of hooting horns.  I was glad to get back on the metro and head for home.

Apero is the last of the ham.  I'm going to do my arteries a favor and not get more. I washed it down with green tea.  I went to the grocery store this morning, but I couldn't find any more of that nice wine from Douro, so I got some from Aletejano.

Bye for now

Belem: Mosteiro dos Jeronimos

 Bom Dia,

Let me recruit myself with a sip of chilled vinho blanco.

The Monastery is spectacular and probably Lisbon's most famous and visited attractions.  It is an UNESCO World Heritage site.  Having said that, I have to admit that today was a bit of an ordeal.

For one thing the Belem tram was not running due to track repairs.  A Lisbon Public Transit guy directed us to a bus stop.  As you can imagine the bus was very crowded, but the people were pleasant, and I was able to be helpful to my fellow Monastery travelers.  It's a long ride.

Once there I read the signs and went to get in line for my ticket.  I thought that coming mid week and early, I could escape the crowds.  I was wrong.  The ticket line was long and slow.  One got tickets by card machine only.  I wanted a combo ticket so I could visit the archeological museum.  This was not possible.  Having obtained my ticket, I had to go stand in another line.  I can compare the lines only to the stretching into infinity lines one finds at Versailles.  And the line moved at a pace that would make a glacier look like a greyhound.  I had to stand for fifty minutes in hot sunlight, and I would be lying if I pretended this did me any good.

The exterior is amazing as well.  The Monastery was founded by King Manuel I, because he had plenty of cash to burn because Vasco da Gama had discovered the sea route to India by sailing around Africa.  He came back with a boat load of spices and many a Portuguese caravel followed him.  This is the same King Manuel I, who dismissed Columbus (Rightly so. Columbus was nuts for grossly underestimating the size of the Earth, and don't try to tell me stories.  All educated people knew the Earth was round since Hellenistic Times. ) and blew off Ferdinand Magellan (this may have been a mistake as his voyage greatly benefitted the Spanish Crown.)

Finally! Inside only to realize I had to climb stairs.  At this point I was so stiff and depleted I wasn't sure I could make it.  I managed and followed the signs and emerged in the cloister.

At this point I began to think the line was worth it.  Marvelous!  What came to mind was the art historical concept of horror vacui.  The Cloister comes in two stories, and it is lovely to walk around admiring the exquisite and intricate carving.  The Refectory features some first rate tile work.  The whole thing is simply gorgeous.

When I was done I followed the signs for the exit feeling puzzled.  I wanted to see the church.  Well, it turns out that to see the church one has to leave the monastery and join a huge snaking line for another fifty minutes in the sun.  I decided I wasn't going to do that.  I don't like being an ungracious guest, but the design of this site is not geared toward the comfort and convenience of visitors.  I suppose they know we'll come anyway.

I took the tram part way home and then transferred to a bus.  Mercifully both forms of public transport were air conditioned.

For apero I toasted some bread and melted some cheese on it.  The Portuguese cheese is called Olveha and it's a very soft cheese incased in a waxy rind.  Very yummy indeed, and the white wine is refreshing.

Bye for now

Nucleo Arqueologico de Rua does Correeiros

 Bom Dia,

It rained hard over most of last night--apparently much to the relief of the Portuguese who had suffered from drought.  The season is turning.  It's a bit cooler, and there's more rain in the forecast for next week.

I really wanted to see the archeological site under the bank and booked a tour.  The tours are free, but they must be reserved on line or by phone.  They are given in Portuguese and English.  The place is actually very close to where I live.  I walk around the corner and down the street a ways, so it was easy for me to arrive a bit early.  The tour takes about fifty minutes and is not physically taxing.  There are stairs and places one has to duck, but no one in our group had a problem. 

The tour is led by an actual archeologist who did a good job giving us a sense of the history and structure of the city from the Iron Age on.  She pointed out how the Phoenicians influenced the inhabitants building techniques and life style.  The major portion of the ruins are Roman including the remains of a fish factory.  Conservas are truly an ancient tradition, but the Romans had a taste for fish left in salt to--uh--mature in the sun.  Garum and liquimen were ubiquitous seasonings for all classes.  A sort of modern analogy is South East Asian Fish sauce.  But Olispo also exported olive oil and some wine.  We learned that each product and each province had its own uniquely shaped amphorae.  There's an excellent selection of objects retrieved from the excavations.

If you visit Lisbon and have limited time, a better bet is to take this tour rather than hike up to the Roman Theatre.  Fortunately I had time to do both.

My tour wasn't until later, so I had time for shopping, and I did not have to go far afield.  I got more groceries.  I also picked up some cork products and treated myself to a pair of exquisite hand painted candlesticks from a beautiful shop around the corner.  The shop folks understand the needs of travelers, and she wrapped up my purchase in plenty of bubble wrap.

But all this money spending and archeology does work up an appetite.  And appetite means apero.  I'm having more ham and green tea.  I actually googled pork fat.  Apparently it's not as bad as I thought being less saturated and full of B Vitamins.

To accompany dinner I have a lovely pink wine DOC from the Douro Region.  The label proudly proclaims that the winery is family owned.  They do good work!

Bye for now

Rainy Day Shopping in Lisbon

 Bom Dia,

I had another airport dream.  In this one I made my flight, but when I got to Heathrow things fell apart.  In my dream I was able to board the connecting flight without a boarding pass, so I didn't know where the flight was going or what my seat was. Impossible in real life, I assure you!

The museums are closed on Monday, so it was time to rev up my credit card and go shopping.  I consulted google maps and went back to area where I emerged bewildered from the metro my first night here.  I was far more confident and oriented this time.

Of course it was all up hill and featured stairs as well.  My area is heavily touristed but relatively tranquil.  I walked into a bustling business/tourist district chock full of shops, traffic, trams, and tour groups.  It was noisy and crowded.  Since being here I have learned that a Largo is a plaza and a Praca is a larger largo.  I snooted around and licked windows. (OK not literally.  It comes from a French term for window shopping.)  Then I made my way up another steep hill.

My target was the Lisbon branch of a famous Portuguese toiletries made by Claus Porto.  The shop is small but very elegant.  The shop assistant told me it was a former pharmacy and pointed out the ceiling molding and wooden cabinets that they kept.  These a high class products, and all this elegance and beautiful packaging does come at a price, but the scents are irresistible.  I picked up some small soaps to give as gifts.

My next target did not open until 11, so I walked around for a bit. I also discovered that google maps sent me the long way around.

There is this cork store that came highly recommended by my guidebook.  Now cork and its products can be found in every touristy shop.  You may be thinking of wine bottle stoppers, but that not what we have here.  The cork is made smooth and thin and can be made into all kinds of things, including clothing.  The shop was much smaller than I expected and their sensibility is sleek and modern.  Very nice.  Not what I was looking for.  The offerings in my neighborhood are much prettier, so I'll be shopping local.

Then I came upon a shopping center--miniscule by American standards, but I had a good look around.  I found something I'd be looking for--a premium Portuguese chocolate shop.  I admired the offerings and bought a few things.  I also attended the Sephora and helped myself to some expensive cologne.  You can find it right next to the Starbucks.

I was actually pretty close to home by that time and had my umbrella up, so I came home for apero.  I made some green tea because it goes remarkably well with that fatty, gorgeous Portuguese ham, and it also makes me feel I am not completely destroying my health eating it.  The meat part is chewy and the fat just melts in my mouth.

I opened the window so I could hear the rain falling.  It's just lovely.  When I'm out I carry an umbrella--just in case.  I'm seeing from my windows, hapless folk taking shelter where they can, but they still to get where they are going.

Bye for now

Museu do Teatro Romano

 Bom Dia.

I always like visiting a city's roots, especially when, like Lisbon, the city is a Roman foundation.  Called at first merely Olispo, and Emperor Augustus granted the place the honorific name of Olisipo Julia Felicitas. After trams and busses I was looking for something I could walk to, and this site fitted the bill--even though I knew it was going to be all uphill.

But first I went grocery shopping.  One convenient feature of Lisbon is that most stores are open on Sunday, so if I needed more hummus or to top off my Ginja supply, nothing was easier.

Then I mapped out my route and set off. Uphill. I don't like it, but I can do it.  I got a little turned around because the signposting of streets is a bit inconsistent, but I had my map and soon sorted myself out finding an even steeper hill to climb to my target.  One funny thing.  People have begun to ask me for directions, which I am usually unable to give, especially if the request is not in English.  I tried to help someone get to a train station yesterday, but my pointing and Spanish did not do a thing.  The guy who asked me this morning kinda laughed and shrugged when I told him in English that I was a tourist and did not speak Portuguese.

I enjoyed the museum.  Compared to other Roman sites, I have visited, it's offerings are modest, but it doesn't cost much and the exhibits are well presented even if they have to be eked out by some works by local artists.  Across the street is a related archeological site that you could peek into for free.

I started for home.  It is NOT easier going down hill, and my knees still haven't forgiven me for that day in Naples when I had to take five billion stairs down when the metro stopped working.  I decided to take another route home, so I could see a bit more of the city and go window licking.  So it was a nice albeit shorter day out.

And now it's time for Apero.  Today's offering is some toast (I found really good Portuguese bread!) with some of that cheese from the gourmet shop and a little vinho blanco DOC from Alentejo.  Very nice.  For dinner I'm going to have some more of this wine with some linguine I intend to mix with some tuna conservas.  It's packed in olive oil so that adds to the flavor and makes a nice sort of sauce.  I know it doesn't sound like much, but good ingredients make it special.

There's another bike race on, but it doesn't start until later--and there's rain in the forecast.  Wheee!

Belem: Palacio Nacional de Ajuda

 Bom Dia,

Although I got some decent sleep I woke up with a vivid nightmare where I went to the airport and managed to do everything wrong.  I left too late for my early flight and then despite increasingly desperate attempts, I could not find my gate.  Then I knew I'd missed my fight, but I couldn't find anyone to help me rebook.  It took me a few seconds to sort myself out once I realized I was awake

I'm writing my blog while listening to a bike race.  It's Il Lombardia, one of those loooong one-day races.  I could go out and not have to rush back knowing there would be a lot of race to go when I got home.  I'm looking forward to the showdown between Jonas Vingegaard and Tadej Pogacar, their first race meeting since Jonas trounced Tadej in the Tour de France.  Tadej won the race last year, so he may have the edge this time.

I had to take a bus to reach my target, but the ride there and back went without a hitch.  This is a rare and precious event! In fact the bus dropped me off right outside the Palace.  This is the place the Portuguese Royal Family built for themselves after the earthquake damaged their former home.  It is magnificent and built in a Neo Classical style. Hot puppies! I thought, this is going to be good.

I found the entrance and got my ticket--asking for the senior discount.  I had to go through security, and at first they weren't going to let me take my umbrella in, but after inspecting it, they relented.  I scanned my ticket to get in and took the elevator up to the third floor where I found the Royal Treasures.

The exhibit hall was kept very dark, but what I saw was the Royal Regalia of Portugal, plus a lot of glittering gems, giant nuggets of gold, orders of honor and a lot of such like.  This was nice.  I was there for the state rooms.  Where were they?

And I looked.  I followed the arrow for the North Hall.  It was bare and blocked off. I tried other floors.  Nada.  No signs.  So I made for the exit feeling that I had come a long way for very little.  I had to scan my ticket to get out.  It's a security measure to keep track in case someone wants to hide in the museum and make off with some of those treasures.

I'm having green tea with my apero of olives and Portuguese ham.  The latter is sooo goood!  But it's also so fatty I feel naughty eating it.  I'm hoping that the green tea will counteract some of the saturated fat.

Bye for now

P.S.  Tadej takes it!

Belem: Museu Nacional dos Coches

 Bom Dia, 

Let me take a bite of apero first. It's some of that fancy, somewhat stinky cheese I got at the gourmet store.  I put it on toast and it melted.  Mmmmmm.  Very good!  It has a semi sharp, complex flavor.  I'll take a sip of the Vinho Verde Rose.

Now for the day's activities.  I had some chores to take care of like toping off my travel card and going to the grocery store.  Then I walked down Rua de Augusta to get the tram at Praca do Comercio.  I did not have to wait long.  I wear a mask on public transportation.  There are always a few of us who do.  Some conductors came around to do a ticket check, and some tourists without ticket struggled to get them from an apparently malfunctioning machine.  One can get ticket on board.  It's cheaper and easier to get them beforehand.

The trip to Belem is long and kind of boring, but worth it. I was lucky to be on a tram that displayed stops, so I knew just where to get off.   All I had to do is cross the street and I was there.  I started at the old museum, and it was nice because I had it to myself.  The ticket guy kept asking me if I wanted a combo ticket to see boats. Uh no. I have no interest in boats.  Then I figured out he was saying both and offering me a combo ticket as the museum comes in two parts.  He also asked me if I was over 65 and wanted a senior discount.  Yes, I did, but I was a little irritated that I didn't have to ask and provide proof of age.

I get a huge kick out of coaches, and the exhibit is well displayed.  Most of the coaches in both museums belonged to the Royal Family of Portugal, and oh boy, are they grand and elaborately decorated.  And also maybe hellish to ride in over rough tiled and cobbled streets before the development of effective suspension.  The old museum is in a vast and beautiful room with an upstairs gallery with portraits of the Royal Family.  I did not know who most of these people were, but it was still fun.

I crossed the street to the new museum where most of the tourists started.  I marveled at the size and grandeur of the coaches and wondered how many horses it would take to pull the thing along even at a slow pace.  The decorations on all the royal and noble coaches is highly symbolic and is meant to send a message to the awestruck viewers about the power and virtue of the occupants.

There are less elaborate vehicles meant for tooling around town on display as well.  Royal children had miniature versions for going about the gardens of their palaces.  Many of the "modern," i.e. Nineteenth Century couches were designed and built in London, but one especially fancy version belonged to Pope Clement XI.

I got the tram back feeling very satisfied with my excursion.

All I wanted was for the trash and recycling taken out.  Now I'm getting clean sheets which is a good thing I guess and clean towels, and heaven knows what else.  How long is this going to take?  The ladies were very nice even though I cannot understand a word of Portuguese, but my floors are wet, but I guess it's good to have everything clean although I would have done it myself or most of it.

For dinner I am having microwaved potatoes doctored up with seasoning and sardine pate.  This is actually better tasting that it sounds.  Pink Vinho Verde goes well with it.

Here's the rePORT!  Ha ha ha ha ha ha. It's ruby port, which is the kind I am most familiar with.  Yes, it taste's familiar. There's nothing special about this, but I am not dealing in anything vintage.

Bye for now.

The History of Money

 Bom Dia,

My apero is a slice of that fancy pants ham from pampered pigs.  It sure is good, but it's chewy and so loaded with saturated fat that I decided to have some green tea with it.

So there's always something, especially when you get to be my age.  One of my ankles was wonky, but I still had a good day out.  I walked a lot, but I was fine.

Fortunately Lisbon is packed with interesting sites.  I made my way to Largo de Sao Juliao to a center sponsored by the Bank of Portugal.  I find it interesting that Portuguese banks are involved in history.   The Millennium Bank offers the archeological site I tried to visit yesterday,  By the way they sent me a nice email apologizing and explaining that yesterday was a national holiday.  Both exhibits are free.

I had to go through a security check for the first time in a Portuguese museum, and then I entered a space of Baroque Splendor.   The place used to be the Church of Sao Juliao, and it's impressive.  One enters the museum itself though a mocked up bank vault.  Inside the visitor is provided with information and a ticket.  As I mentioned entrance is free, but the ticket is used for the interactive features of the museum.  One thing the nice young man at the service desk pointed out to me is an enormous gold bar.  Visitors are invited to touch it, and I did contemplating the 700,000 Euro value of the thing.  Hooeee.  This is my closest encounter with this kind of object.

Then upstairs for historical money.  There's an impressive collection of coins from the earliest use of money in Lydia in Western Asia through the Greeks and Romans.  They even have early Han Dynasty tokens from Ancient China as well as examples of coins and notes from other Dynasties. Then if you care to, you can use your ticket to take quizzes about the Portuguese economy and the European Central Bank.  I did not do well.  I also enjoyed the extensive exhibit of banknotes from all over the world--except apparently North America.  The United States has comparatively dull money.

The other feature of the museum is the remains of a city wall built in the 1200s by King Dinas.  I had never heard of him, but he is a major figure in Portuguese History and having become king at age 12 enjoyed a long and successful reign.  He built the way to protect the waterfront of the River Tejo from pirates as the city had begun to expand far beyond its Moorish Walls, and my neighborhood of Baxia was being developed.

Then I strolled around and licked windows at the numerous touristy shops.  Portugal has gorgeous ceramics mostly impossible to pack, but I like looking.  I'm thinking of treating myself to a pair of candlesticks.

But now for a Port Report.  Ha ha ha ha ha.  SometimesI just crack myself up.

I'm glad someone appreciates your humor.

Today's offering is White Port.  I have never had it.  In fact I've never heard of it.  Sip.  It smells and tastes like Tawny Port.  It's mot bad, but it's not something I'd cross the street for either.

Bye for now

Portuguese Delicacies

 Bom Dia,

I like Portuguese food and drink, and my treats make up for a rather disappointing day.  I'm fine.  I just didn't have the confidence for a forty minute tram ride.  But I came across a site about three minutes walk from my place, and it sounded very cool.

Under a bank lies a major archeological site with many layers dating back to the iron age through the Romans and Moors.  Fun what?  I went to the web site and signed up for the tour.  I was told I'd be notified soon.  The form required my phone number and email.  Did I get a notice?  No.  I thought I might have screwed up the reservation, so I did it again.  Same.  No notice.

I walked down the place, which is really quite close and found everything shut tight including the bank.  I wondered if this was some kind of holiday, so it was closed.  Well, that was disappointing, but Lisbon is fun to walk around, and I resolved to visit some gourmet shops and shell out some Euros on fancy foods.  I'll try the archeology another day.  Fortunately I have a lot of time here.

Let's start with my apero.  When I planned my trip, I vowed to try bacalhau, which is dried salt cod and the National Dish of Portugal.  I have come across it in the form of large slabs of fish fillet.  They smelled fishy, and I would have had no idea what to do with the thing even though there are apparently hundreds of ways to serve the stuff, and I could always google.  Today I found a more user friendly type in the form of bacalhau pate conveniently packaged in small serving sizes.  I toasted some of that good bread I bought and spread it on.

What's it like Pil?

It's definitely fishy, but not too strong.  It's not my favorite thing, but it's definitely edible, and maybe I'll acquire the taste.  I have to say it goes well with my vinho blanco.  I also have small green olives that are very tasty and some almonds.

At another shop I got some Portuguese ham--the kind that comes at 60E a kilo.  But of course I got a much smaller portion.  We can sample it another day along with the fancy cheese I picked out.  I also obtained a sampler of Port.  I'm going to wait until after dinner, but I will report (heh heh re Port!).

Yeah, Pil, you slay us.  Sigh.

Dinner was linguine with smoked salmon sauce, and it was really good. I will definitely get another tin even though it's expensive.  Now let's have a sip of tawny port.  I got a pack of small bottles with various styles of port.  The smell very alcoholic, but the sip is nice. A mild flavor, which is rather fruity, but not grapey. It's nice. Port is fortified wine, so one does not have much of it.  But the sample bottles are small and the right size. 

Bye for now.

Sorry--No Tourist Action Today

 Bom Dia,

I have succumbed to a common digestive issue that afflicts travelers, so I had to scrap my plans for today. Sometimes this happens, and I have no idea why. But I also know I'll be fine.  I have two more weeks here, so losing a day, while annoying, isn't a catastrophe.  Later in the afternoon I felt able to go to the cash machine and the grocery store.  

And I am having an apero in the shape of a hard boiled egg and some smoked salmon conserva.  The stuff is expensive, but it's very good.  The smoke is mildish.  If my digestive system does not object I can proceed to dinner.

Bye for now

Belem: Museu Colecao Berardo

 Bom Dia,

Let's get straight to apero, shall we?  I stopped at a shop on my way home and picked up a cod cake with cheese.  I just had a bite.  Pretty darned tasty.  You have to like fish and cheese.  I do.  At the grocery store this morning I was tempted by some Vinho Verde, but mine is rose.  It's turned hot and humid, so this should be especially refreshing.  Shall we have a sip?

You say "we" a lot, but you selfishly keep all this food and drink for yourself.  Phooey.

Mmmm.  I'm afraid I didn't hear you.  I'm too immersed in this delicious Portuguese specialty.  The fish cake is slightly crunchy, but then one gets too the ooey gooey cheese filling.  Yumsy.  I'm trying to work up to bacalhau, which is the dried salt cod.  It's kind of scary really, and smells very fishy.

I topped up my travel card and strolled down to Praca do Comercio where I picked up (a modern) Tram 15E that would take me to Belem.  I'll be going there a lot this week because there are some major historical sights that are on Lisbon's must see list.  It was kind of a long ride out, and I wasn't sure where to get off, but I recognized a historical landmark that I intend to visit tomorrow when it's open, that I was pretty sure was near my target.  I was right and after a bit of a walk I came upon the Museu Colecao Berardo.

It was my first stop in Belem because it's Monday and most museums are closed.  This one is dedicated to Twentieth Century art and was the brain child of zillionaire banker Jose Berardo.  Apparently the museum is not well known, but the collection and display are impressive.  Placards in Portuguese and English introduce and describe each style.  The visitor is directed through the exhibit in chronological order, so it's like a course on Modern Art History.  I found this very useful.  The collection includes at least one work by most of the major artists of the mid and late Twentieth Century.

Good examples of Abstract Expressionism, Cubism, Dada, Surrealism as well as Pop Art are on offer.  Now my tastes run more towards Renaissance and Baroque, but I found some of the works very compelling. For some reason I can't fathom the geometric works of Malevich and Modrian speak to me.  Go figure.

I found the tram stop and came back and snooted around a few touristy shops near Parca do Comercio, but it was hot and humid, and I was getting hungry.  We'll be visiting Belem again tomorrow.

And that cod cake with cheese was really good.  I'll have to go back for more.

Bye for now

I'd Move In!

Bom Dia

Let me settle in with my apero.  We're having an egg for protein and some nice, salty almonds and a few sips of some nice Portuguese white wine.

I filled my travel card at the metro station and stopped to help some fellow North Americans, and then proceeded to the tram station.  Trams are fun to ride.  The ones made for those steep, narrow streets are not efficient, and our journey was impeded by a car parked on the tracks.  The driver rang the bell politely, but the car did not move through increasing irate bell rings.  Finally the car moved off, and we were on our way.  But the tram was packed!  I was sitting in front, and the exit is in the back.  The tram was so packed that I did not make it to the exit in time.  I had to get off at the next stop, which fortunately was not too far away.  The result, though, was that I was turned around, and had a hard time finding my target.

This worked out though because the museum can be visited only with a guided tour, and one was just about to start.  It's called the Museum of Decorative Arts, but this is a little misleading.  The building is former nobleman's townhouse, and it was bought by a wealthy banker, who had begun his fine art/antiques collection at age sixteen. I used to teach high school and can attest that even rich American teenagers do not do this.  The museum now houses his entire and very impressive collection and consists of a series of period rooms mostly Seventeenth and Eighteenth Century.  Now I far prefer period rooms to exhibits in glass cases.  I want to see the art and furniture in context and get a glimpse of how the other .01% lived.

Our guide was pleasant and very well informed and great at calling our attention to a telling detail and putting the collection in historical context.  For example there is a lot of both genuine and fake Chinoiserie.  Artists from China and Japan made pieces for wealthy Europeans to order, but if that was too much for your pocket book, European artists churned out semi convincing "Asian" pieces.

I spotted a portrait of Catherine of Braganza.  She is one of my favorite Portuguese figures as I am both a student of British History and dedicated tea drinker.  Catherine was sent to Britain to marry King Charles II, who treated her with courtesy and kindness except for all his other women.  But Catherine did have. lasting impact on British Culture.  She introduced tea to the court, and the population soon followed in consuming this elixir of life.

I learned some things.  The Moorish custom of having women sit on the floor on cushion while men sat on chairs survived for centuries after the Christians took over.  Noblewomen would have beautiful little tables made with short legs, so they could put down their tea cups or fans.  If I could have fit one of them in my luggage, I would have made off with it.

Afterwards I found the tram stop and came back.  I took the Famous 28 back, and, yes, it was crowded, and the day had turned hot. But I was very satisfied with the day's activity.

I'm going to have linguine and tuna fish again.  It was a successful combination.

Bye for now

I Got a Good Walk Anyway

 Bom Dia,

I decided to give myself an easy day after my exertions yesterday.  I identified a target museum nearby--one that featured historic design.  Sounded fun!  And then I planned to spend some money on fancy canned fish.

First I went to the ATM.  Now Lisbon is rife with ATMs.  It seems like there's one on every block--just like the pastry shops.  They are everywhere. But they are stand alones, and I don't quite trust them, so I went to the one by the bank and got my infusion of Euros.  Then I headed to the grocery store for some supplies.  I dropped them off and headed out.

Lisbon is a wonderful walking city, and I found plenty of windows to lick and future opportunities to spend quite a bit of money.  The goods are good.  But I could not find the museum.  I walked the length of the street.  I wondered if I'd mistaken the street and tried others.  I went back home to consult the guidebook and pin point the location on the map.  It just wasn't there.

Fine.  Time for Conservas.  Conservas are the tinned fish--in many varieties and styles that are a famous and highly valued product of the Iberian Peninsula.  Since I more or less follow the Mediterranean Diet, I eat a lot of fish anyway. The shop was floor to ceiling tins of fish and there was more downstairs.  I had a good look around.  One of the shop assistants offered me information and asked where I was from.  Upon hearing I was from the United States he said, "I wish I could go to the United States, but I'm stuck in Portugal."  Uh.  Some of us don't see it that way.  I never know what to say to Europeans who wish to come to the U.S.  "Oh honey," probably wouldn't go over well.

The young woman who rang up my order was charming.  She gave me stickers for my tins and was thrilled when I gave exact change.  I try to do this if I can because some one in Paris last spring mentioned a coin shortage.  She also gave me an enthusiastic wine recommendation. The best known Portuguese wine, apart from Port, is Vinho Verde (which is a white wine with a green tint), and you can find it at Trader Joe's among other places.  Anyway she wanted me to try a particular region, which produces a Vinho Verde that is dry and especially fruity.  So I'll look for it.

Hey, Pil, what did you buy?

Well, I played it safe this time.  I got some smoked salmon and fancy tuna, but I intend to branch out.  Gotta get those Omega 3s

My apero is the rest of the ham and some green olives I got at the grocery store.  Beware the pits.  I also have to finish off the red wine before it goes bad.  I haven't decided what to have for dinner.  It probably won't be exciting.

Since I don't have a museum to report on, I'll discuss the city.  I knew very little about Lisbon before I came and did some minimal research and picked a place to stay pretty much at random.  And I got lucky because this area is the best place to stay for a tourist.  It's very walkable, and I can get to most places on foot.  The buildings are beautiful. Some are covered in painted ceramic tiles.  It's touristy, which is fine with me--I'm a tourist, and some of the shops are positively elegant.  I can easily find anything I need within a very short walk. I have not encountered a Portuguese person who did not speak excellent English, and they have all been kind and gracious. 

Drivers are very polite to pedestrians and will stop to let one cross the street even if they have the green light!  I was bewildered by this at first.  Also at crosswalks with traffic lights, what I call Paris Rules are in effect.  If the light is red, but there is no on coming traffic, go ahead and cross.

In short, I'm glad I came.  Truthfully, I was anxious about plunging into an unknown place and was sorely tempted to return to a city I was familiar with.  Going somewhere new was a decided challenge, and I am very happy that I took it up.

Bye for now