Across the Bridge to Christianhaven--and back

Goddag

I went to Sweden yesterday because the weather forecast for today was . . .  dreadful, so I thought I’d stay local and do a shopping day.  First I did some chores.  For example I had to go to the grocery store and then recycle some glass.  I started out in the rain.  I walked down to Christianslot and then across the bridge to Christianhaven.  I was looking for a shop that reportedly had craft items from Greenland.  Of course, they don't call it Greenland anymore. It has an Inuit name, which I can never remember, and while the place is still associated with Denmark, I gather it's largely self-governing.  Greenland is NOT on my list of places to visit.  After a long walk I found the shop and also found the reports of crafts a shocking exaggeration.

To make this more interesting I will digress on a part of Christianhaven I did not see, but that you might want to should you come to Copenhagen.

Christiana was founded as a "free state" back in 1971 on an abandoned military base by a bunch of—well, let's just call them Hippies—wanted to found an alternative community.  Most Danes said, "why not?" so the place endured.  Eventually they had to kick out the hard drug dealers, and Marijuana is not longer openly sold on Pusher Street.  Rumblings from the Danes express resentment that the Christianians pay no taxes and are taking up valuable land that could be used for other purposes.  Just stroll in if you want to visit, but don't take pictures on Pusher Street, ok?

In one of the touristy stores on Stroget that I went to, one of the proprietors noticed my travel bag.  Long ago I got it in Battle at town in Sussex where in 1066 the Normans routed Harold, King of the English and his army.  Fortunately (this is rare!) he reacted with approval.  I showed the bag and said “French Danes!”  This got a laugh.

For dinner I had smorrebrod—just as tasty and wonderful as always.  These sandwiches have been among the highlights of my journey.  I had potato, liver paste and beef with some salty gelatinous goo and onion and butter lettuce, and ham salad with onion, cucumber, tomato, and butter lettuce.

Yeah, well congratulations on going to Sweden and all but you still disappoint us.  There’s an aspect of Danish life, i.e., food, you’ve not dealt with?

Such as?

Pastry, Pil!  Danish Pastry!

That’s what you call it.  There’s pastry in Denmark, but no “Danish” or even “Dansk” because here it’s Wienerbrod.  In Europe most bread pastries are called Viennese—even in Paris.  But I am not so neglectful.  For post shopping afternoon tea, I have something called a “snail” redolent of cinnamon.  I went to the fanciest bakery in town right on Stroget where I had to take a number and wait  But dang!  This is good.  Rich, buttery, sweet bread with cinnamon and a dollop of icing.  Ahhhh!

Ok, Pil, you don’t have to rub it in.

Farvel