Wednesday, September 5, 2018

San Souci, Potsdam


Guten Tag,
I went to see the San Souci complex in Potsdam today.  In a word:  Spec Ta Cular!
I had a long day, and since housekeeping hasn't done my room yet, I'm not settled in.  But I had a very satisfying if tiring day out.  I did not see everything in San Souci Park.  I may have to go back in a day or so.  I'll see what I feel like.
It was easy for me to get to Potsdam.  I got a day pass for all three city regions and took a short U bahn ride to where I could transfer to the S bahn.  It's a short walk from the U bahn Wilmersdorf to Charlottenburg S bahn station, and from there a straight shot to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof--the end of the line so I could not possibly miss it.
I had booked a timed visit to San Souci Palace a few days before, something that is highly recommended during the busy season and probably vital on weekends, and the Citadines folk kindly printed out my ticket.  I gave myself plenty of time to get there.  From the Hauptbahn Hof one needs to take a bus to the park, but I found it right away and used my day pass.  I got off at the park entrance because I had plenty of time, but the bus makes several stops around the complex.
The park is huge!  It's also very beautiful and done up in the beloved Rococo fashion that Frederick the Great loved so well.  Fountains and statues abound.  Vistas are carefully contrived.  There is both lush woodland and formal gardens.  Entrance to the park is free, so the visitor could spend a pleasant day here just wandering around without visiting any of the palaces.
Yes.  Palaces.  Frederick was a builder and a patron of many arts and crafts.  Unlike his militaristic dad, Fredrick took to music, philosophy, and the Rococo.  He loved the French language and culture and like many other absolute monarchs around Europe wanted to build something that would rival Versailles.  I say he made a pretty good run of it, but as I said all over Rococo rather than Baroque.
I had a good leg stretch to get to the actual San Souci Palace, a Rococo gem built to Fredrick's specifications.  I was early, but they let me in anyway.  The excellent audioguide is included in all admissions.
San Souci is a French phrase meaning "without care," and this was Frederick's summer palace where he entertained his artistic and philosophical friends, including for a few years, Voltaire.  The palace while elegant and ornate is also intimate.  It's a palace designed for pleasure and a life without care.  If you like marble, gilt, and glass beautifully arranged and lovely period rooms with some incredible furniture.  I was also taken, just like Fredrick, with the enchanting paintings of Watteau on display.
After this visit I hiked around the grounds, taking a zillion photos.  I decided I wanted to visit the Neues Palais, which Frederick build as a more official royal residence.  It's a longish walk across the park, but you can't miss it as it is huge and visible from way off.
I saw a lot of visitors with dogs.  I am sure that said dogs are not allowed inside, but what do the folks do with them if they want to go in?  I saw no signs of doggy parking or daycare.
I obtained a ticket and an audio guide.  The new palace was built when Frederick was older, but he insisted on the Rococo fashion of his youth even though the trend was Neo Classical by then.  Subsequent rulers used and remodeled the Neues Palais.  Some rooms have been restored to Frederick's taste, others have not, and the contrast is interesting.  All the rooms are gorgeous.  I could not get enough of the inlaid marble floors and the gilt and painted woodwork decorating the walls.
But after that I was worn out with just enough gumption left to attend the nice museum shop and make my way to the nearest bus stop.  I had a pleasant ride through Potsdam and quickly caught the S bahn hack.

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