Tuesday, July 5, 2016

Re--a Drop of Golden Sun


Guten Tag,
So far the weather had been sunny, hot, and a bit humid.  I began my day with the usual stroll up Getreidegasse fighting the clumps of tour groups.  I found the Salzburg Museum open and whipped out my card.  I got it to pay for itself today, but I think that some of the museums here are (ahem) over priced.  Not all by any means, but you can safely skip the Salzburg Museum.  Now I happen to enjoy city foundations, and Salzburg was once Juvavem.  As far as I was concerned the highlights of the exhibition were a few meager Celtic sculptures and the remains of a very impressive Roman mosaic.  Unfortunately I also spent the day dodging school tours, and while I believe in high culture for the young folks, I don't want them to be there while I am trying to consume it.  The elementary students go around with teachers, and the problem is that they park themselves and monopolize exhibits.  Older students--let's say middle school--are let loose to be noisy.  Kids that age are rarely interested in the exhibits but rather themselves and their phones.  I'd prefer not to have to work around them.
Then the touristing took a turn for the better.  I next visited the cathedral, which is a lovely example of Northern European Baroque.  Entrance is free, but they ask politely for a donation, and I am happy to drop a Euro or two in the box for the upkeep of these amazing buildings.
There's a combi museum called DomsQuarter, which is definitely worth the visit and includes a helpful audio guide.  You can begin in the Residenz, but since I was at the cathedral, I went upstairs, flashed my card and started there.  The curios and ecclesiastical treasures of the prince Bishops are on display.  I happen to enjoy Late Medieval Art, so I was in my element.  There are some wonderful polychrome wood carvings and some nice altarpieces.  The other paintings are undistinguished.
Then I reentered the cathedral up in the gallery where one can inspect one of the many organs and peer down on the nave.  I also proceeded the the palace of the Prince Bishops--begun by our pal Wolf Detriech in the Baroque style.  It's known as the Residenz, and while not as extensive as the one in Munich it is quite grand and well worth seeing.  Ceiling paintings in the State Apartments portray the benevolent rule of Alexander the Great and unsubtly hint that Salzburg's Prince Bishops were Just Like Him.  Or just like the myth as the reality was not that fun to live under.  I was also impressed with some lovely tapestries portraying the four seasons and some beautiful furnishings.  The Prince Bishops lost power when Napoleon abolished the Holy Roman Empire and reorganized the German Confederation.
I made my way home via numerous touristy shops.  Souvenir hunters will be delighted.  I prefer to bring home gifts for myself and others that I can eat, wear, or use.
Dinner tonight is not very exciting.  I have some Austrian red wine, but I don't recognize the varietal, and I will cook up some tortellini.

2 comments:

  1. Yeah, who would want to be like Alexander the Great? Ah well. Men. Sounds like today's touring was a delight! (Except for the school kids.)

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  2. Running into school groups is too much like busman's holiday.

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