Monday, July 4, 2016

Climb Ev'ry Mountain


Guten Tag!
Ok.  I did not exactly climb Hohen Salzburg--not on my own feet at any rate.  I went up the funicular to spare my aging legs and also because riding funiculars is fun and the ride is included in the Salzburg Card.  Yes.  I got another one of those cards, and it proved to be very handy.
People in the Early Middle Ages very sensibly sought out strong points that they could fortify against invaders or rivals.  Salzburg as a town is nearly ideally situated.  There's a fast flowing navigable river and beyond a steep cliff with plenty of space on top for a fortress.  Indeed the city's very name tells the tale--Fortress on the Salzach.  You can see the castle from most points in the city below.  I took about a zillion pictures of it, but today it was time to go there.
I love castles, and I like prowling around them and the spectacular views from high places, so I enjoyed myself.  Hohen Salzburg is one of the larger remaining castle complexes and is well worth the visit, but very little remains of the original furnishings.  The visitor can go through a lot of rooms with exhibits.  There are some audio guides in some of the rooms, and the usual display of armor, weapons, and ecclesiastical paraphernalia.  One highlight is the state rooms designed by one of the Prince Bishops, which consist of some handsome late Gothic chambers.  Heavily restored, I suspected.
The views from on high were indeed spectacular.  From one side you have a panorama of the city below.  On the other side you look across intensely green countryside to find Alps springing up all of a sudden.  I rode up, but I determined to walk down.  I set off on the well marked route.  First I strolled through a pleasant leafy neighborhood, in which I guessed dwelt the affluent.  It was delightful on a summers day.  I wondered if winter would be bleak.
I got a bit of woodland walk as the route meandered along the crest of the hill.  There's a little more to see, and there is also a fancy hotel as well as several places for those needing food and drink.  I fetched up at the Modern Salzburg Museum, but it was closed.  I started down and was glad it was dry because there were LOTS of stairs.
Back in town, I attended the market.  Well, of course I did.  It mostly seems set up for tourists rather than being an authentic and traditional market.  I did see a lot of locals around the fruit and vegetable tent.  I proceeded up and down Getriedegasse licking windows and occasionally popping into shops.  I came upon Mozart's Birthplace and found there was no line to get in, so I exercised my card.
Mozart is Salzburg's favorite son, and he and his name and countenance are everywhere.  The birthplace museum is nice and displays some of the letters and possessions of the family.  If you come to Salzburg you kind of have to go, but notice I am expressing no thrill.
Now I am back watching the Tour de France in German.  I had a snack of Liptaur.  I have the "mild" version, and I really like it and also a sip or two of the Gruner Veltliner.  Yesterday I had some Austrian sparkling wine which was cheap and not bad at all although I prefer Prosecco.  I had the dry version, but it also comes in semi dry and sweet.

2 comments:

  1. Kind of ironic considering how much Mozart despised Salzburg--couldn't wait to be rid of it. (Didn't have any opera to speak of.) Vienna was his fave.

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  2. I don't think that Salzburg needs to work Mozart quite so hard--every box of candy has his image--unless it's Sissi's. The city has its own merits and beauties.

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