Imperial Spa

Is this another Sound of Music reference, Pil

It's an historical one, for today I went to Bad Ischel.  The name Bad tells the tale.  This is an area of healing waters.  In this case the waters cured an empress of sterility and won a future empress for a prince.

I set out to get a bus to the Hauptbahnhof, and I am figuring out the city bus system here, so it was not traumatic.  I arrived and found where to get my next bus--my success yesterday making me bold.  I did make sure to inquire at the information desk about getting a ticket, but truth to tell, I needn't have bothered.  A pleasant English speaking young woman came around to sell the tickets, so I was able to get a return and not worry the rest of the day.  The bus was huge and very nice, and also packed to the rafters.  I was lucky to get a seat since every one got taken, but the aisles were full as well.  At some stops the driver refused to take on new passengers.  I have no idea why all these folks were so desperate to get to Bad Ischel.  They certainly weren't going the same reason I was.

The bus ride alone is worth the trouble.  We drove through spectacular countryside.  Alps.  I saw steep-sided, pointy topped and darkly forested hills, and between them swiftly running rivers and deep valleys.  Here and there granite crags appeared as if they had suddenly exploded from the earth.

And the lakes!  The Salzkammergut is Austria's Lake District.  I have never seen that shade of blue.  The lakes have a color something like teal, but not quite.  They are extraordinarily beautiful, and I have marked out a future day trip to explore further.

At length we arrived in Bad Ischel. The Ischel is a fast-flowing alpine river.  The story is that the Archduchess Sophie despairing of her childlessness since royal women were expected to produce, sought a cure here.  It worked!  She gave birth to the "Salt Princes" one of whom was the future Franz Joseph I.  The Emperor retained a fondness for Bad Ischel and made it his summer home.  The place took on even more significance to him.  His mother build a Kaiservilla for him as his newly espoused wife Elisabeth Wittelsbach, a princess of Bavaria, who at sixteen had her arm twisted hard to accept the Archduke's suit.  Readers of the blog may recognize Sisi as Elisabeth was known.  She avoided returning to Bad Ischel but was kind enough to pick out a nice house for her husband's mistress--hoping probably he would not bother her as much.

The town is exceedingly pretty.  It reminded me strongly of Baden Baden with healing and luxury on equal offer.  I enjoyed myself, too.  A handsome man at the tourist office gave me a map and directed me to a very nice and FREE toilet.  There was a market going on, too.  I didn't not see much of it, and when I made my way back they were taking down the booths.

I strolled up to the Kaiservilla, the lovely home that Archduchess Sophie optimistically gave to Franz Joseph and Sisi.  It's a charming albeit elaborate sort of pseudo rustic lodge set in a lovely park.  One can see inside only on a guided tour, and I did not arrive at a good time, but I had a nice wander in the park and through the town.  I would not mind returning at all!  For one thing the setting is incredible--a river valley surrounded by mountains.

But I had to get back to the Tour de France and a mountain stage.  I knew where to get off the bus and crossed the river.  I stopped to get fish and chips.  I was very hungry by that time, but the food was good. And it's time to succumb and have a Mozart Ball-- a confection invented for Salzburg and named for the city's favorite son.

Dark chocolate smells good.  I bite.  It's like a truffle.  Yum.  I have reached the marzipan center. Very nice!  I understand their popularity. I could get used to these quickly.