Thursday, July 10, 2014

Standing at the Edge of Empire


This part of Germany was part of the Roman Empire for hundreds of years.  The vineyards tell the tale in large part.  Where Romans settled they planted vines and imported olive oil and garum, but not so very far north of here, the Empire reached its limit, and Legions, spread so thin, rarely breached the threatening forests beyond the Taunus Hills.
It looked like the rain would hold off, and I needed an easy day after a hard week of touristing, so I decided to return to Bad Homburg and go on to the Roman Fortress Museum at Saalberg.  Getting there was an easy enough process, but needed some precise timing.  I left here in good time and arrived at the train station intending first to buy some stamps.  But there was a huge crowd at the service counter and the machine would give change for stamp purchases only in more stamps.  Not on.  Then I found out the ticket machines for the S Bahn refused any Euro notes larger than ten.  I did not think I had the coins to buy the ticket and despaired for the train would arrive very shortly.  But after all I did have the Euro coins, and all was well.  Until the announcement came that the train would be late.
This is not a very common occurrence on German public transportation, but that morning--and I don't know why--one train after another arrived and departed late.  It wasn't the weather.  Now I began to fret.  I needed to catch a particular bus to Saalberg because they did not run very often.  It all worked out, however.  The S Bahn arrived in Bad Homburg with a few minutes to spare for me to find the bus stop and hop on board.
I had a pleasant ride through the town and into the heavily forested Taunus Hills.  Usually I am anxious on busses, but the stops were prominently displayed, so I had no doubts about where to get off.
The only downside of arriving at Saalberg Roman Fort was having to share the site with about three school tours--Middle School by the looks and behaviour of them!
The site is not large, but it is surprisingly lovely, and there is a reconstructed wall and buildings and displays in both German and English.  The museum holds a fascinating collection of figurines, jewelry, tools, and weapons.  I enjoyed wandering around and even got in a couple of woodland walks.
When I was finished with the fortress, I left to walk about half a kilometer north to the actual Limes,  I passed Roman stonework, and an elaborate system of earthworks sitting among the trees.  I walked down hill to find the largest earthworks, and the notice that this was the Limes--the northernmost limit of Roman power.  I have a taste for such places--although I confess they don't look like much.  Hadrian's Wall is hardly knee high now, and I would have missed the Antonine Wall--built of earth--if there had not been a sign.  I climbed to the top of the Limes earthwork.  The trees grew so thickly I wondered how the legions could guard the border of the Empire in such a spot.  I also reflected that the Germans, although fierce in their way, were not the ultimate in barbarians.  Many Germans became Romanized, and they easily converted to Christianity as well.  For Really Horrid Barbarians, one needed to go further north.
On the way home I shared my S Bahn seat with a German businessman who talked the whole way on his cell phone.  He was one of those people who never have to inhale so can keep talking and talking for half an hour at a time.  I caught a few words here and there.  Clearly he was talking about some big business deal involving finances and capital, but at one point he used the term--in English and a flawless American accent "an extreme pain in the ass."  I had to turn away and cover my mouth to hide my laughter.
On the bus back to Bad Homburg and on the S Bahn I saw wonderful views of the Frankfurt skyline. Mainhattan indeed!

2 comments:

  1. Oh, that one sounds like the best yet. (And I adore the people-watching details! Funny that the guy would do his denigration in English, maybe to spare your ears? It's not like the Germans don't have that exact expression in German!)

    ReplyDelete
  2. Yes. I wondered about the use of the English idiom--given that 'German has no shortage of pungent expressions.

    ReplyDelete