Saturday, July 5, 2014

Green Eggs and Goethe



You know, Apfelwein is growing on me.  It's been extremely humid today, and when I got home and had some after my water, I found it very refreshing indeed.
Is that what the title of the post is about, Pil?
Oh, we'll get to that.  The forecast was for thunderstorms, which so far have not materialized, so I planned a town day where I would largely be inside.  Frankfurt is in fact very walkable--nice and flat with wide sidewalks and pedestrian areas.  I strolled to the train station and then on down Kaiserstrasse, licking windows as I went.  I had a two fold target.  I was eager to visit Goethe's House, but I also knew that nearby stood Der Zeil--a Major Shopping Street complete with futuristic mall and the Kleinmarkt--traditional rather than futuristic and full of Food.  As I arrived before the Goethe House was open, I strolled on to Zeil and entered the mall.  It's all curving glass and blending steel and at first blush reminded me of a roach motel in the sense that it was easy to enter and get sucked in, and very difficult to make one's way out!  I mentally complemented the designer on a strategic way to get folks to shop.
But I did find the exit, but then I got turned around and walked right past Goethe's House.  It worked out though because I found Deutsche Bank.  I use their atms because they are partnered with my home bank, and I don't have to pay pesky fees.  The exchange right is hideous enough without that.
Does the green in the eggs stand for money, Pil?
No.  Let's visit Goethe's House.  He is the towering figure in German Literature with still beloved poems, novels, and plays to his credit.  Johan Wolfgang von Goethe (the enobling "von" was a reward for his literary achievements) was both a seminal writer in the Romantic Mode, but a rather Enlightenment flavored scientific investigator of nature.  I saw the famous portrait of him yesterday at the Stadel lounging in an Italian landscape wearing his traveling hat and cloak, and looking rather like a pilgrim soul himself.  The painter screwed up though.  While Goethe's face looks intelligent and noble, the artist gave him two left feet!
The actual house was destroyed--well, you know--when the rest of Frankfurt was, but it's been faithfully reconstructed and is definitely worth visiting.  Even if you know or care nothing about Goethe's writing, you'll appreciate the late eighteenth century townhouse and the period rooms for a glimpse of how the upper middle class lived at the time and what interests they pursued.
Then I went back to Der Zeil.  The mall boasts one of the longest escalators in Europe and the World. Some People are so Immature, that when they learn of such things, they must ride up on them.  But you probably (cough) don't know anyone like that.
Now on the the Kleinmarkt.
For green eggs, Pil?
Well, not exactly.  A specialty of Hesse is Grun Sosse, which happened to be Goethe's favorite food. My purpose in going to the market was to seek it out and also to find some Handkaase.  Handkaase mit Musik is another beloved Hessan specialty.  There is no delicate way to put this.  The "music" is flatulence resulting from added onions.  I save that, but I hard cooked eggs and microwaved some potatoes, which I doused with the green sauce.  Goethe knew what he was about and so do the rest of the Hessians. The green sauce is creamy but sharp and herby.  It's great on eggs and potatoes.
The Kleinmarkt--the name means small market--may not be large, but is it ever packed.  What does your tum desire in the way of meat, poultry, fish, dairy, fruit, or veg?  If you should fancy alpine cheese or Italian pasta or even Persian nuts and herbs.  It's all waiting.  I'll need to go back obviously.

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