What to do on a rainy Sunday? I supposed I could have bagged the blog and stayed home with green tea and kindle, but I get restless, and I need to do something--you know--historical. I had to go somewhere, and in this weather I was not at all interested in changing trains. But a destination beckoned, one with deep historical resonance--to me any way.
The train ride was longer than I like usually. I mean I like train rides. I don't like spending most of my day riding trains. Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof offers wonderful destinations. I could go to Berlin, or Hamburg, Brussels, Amsterdam (and ooh was I tempted!), and even Paris. But, yeah, Fulda, a place most people have never heard of, but which means a great deal to me.
And now that I have been there--it means even more. I adored Fulda--even in the bucketing rain! I was only sorry that I was not staying there and lacked the time to appreciate the place properly, and I am saying this apart from the history. Fulda is not on the American tourists' itinerary, and I say what a shame because the historic center is beautiful and charming, yes, even in a downpour. But first let's have some history.
Because there is a LOT of history. Boniface--that's St. Boniface to you--is called the Apostle to the Germans. He was an Englishman whose family converted as a result of the mission of St. Augustine of Canterbury, and Boniface longed to spread the good news. Fulda was an early foundation of the Benedictine Order by one of Boniface's disciples. The saint's body was brought to the monastery after his martyrdom among the Frisians.
But the modern city shows little evidence of that early history. Oh yes. There's an old wall here and there, but never mind. Come anyway.
The city center is easily walkable and pedestrianized. I suppose my experience as a traveler gives me an instinct because I found the tourist information office easily enough, and it is very close to the historic sites I wished to see. A clump of tourists sheltered from the driving rain outside the office, but I had an umbrella, stout shoes, the will to tourist. First of all I went to the Schloss or Stadtmusuem. I was glad to get out of the rain and use the toilet, but I also appreciated the building and the period rooms. The highlight for me was the Gobelins tapestries in one of the rooms. I also gazed longingly at the beautiful Schlossgarten. I'd put my umbrella away, and it was still pouring. Later when the rain slowed down I was able to explore a little.
My next stop was the Cathedral--a Baroque masterpiece all marble and gilt. Then I went to the Michaelskirche, which had been advertised in my guide book as Romanesque. I love me some Romanesque, reminding myself of Judith Starkadder and her (transferred) love of "olt churches," but this one was even better. Not Romanesque at all but Carolingian! St. Michaels was built in 832 on a plan I'd never seen before. There was a short nave and then a central plan with the altar in the middle under a dome and a colonnaded ambulatory all around. A few faint original frescos adorned the walls. What a gem!
I spent most of my time just walking around admiring the town. The historical center boasts a variety of buildings from different periods including half-timbered structures as well as those from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. On my way back to the train station, I pulled out my map to check my position. A Fuldan noticed this and asked what I was looking for. When I replied, he gave me directions--auf Deutsche--which I mostly understood. I mention this as another instance of the kindness of the German people to visitors.
But the modern city shows little evidence of that early history. Oh yes. There's an old wall here and there, but never mind. Come anyway.
The city center is easily walkable and pedestrianized. I suppose my experience as a traveler gives me an instinct because I found the tourist information office easily enough, and it is very close to the historic sites I wished to see. A clump of tourists sheltered from the driving rain outside the office, but I had an umbrella, stout shoes, the will to tourist. First of all I went to the Schloss or Stadtmusuem. I was glad to get out of the rain and use the toilet, but I also appreciated the building and the period rooms. The highlight for me was the Gobelins tapestries in one of the rooms. I also gazed longingly at the beautiful Schlossgarten. I'd put my umbrella away, and it was still pouring. Later when the rain slowed down I was able to explore a little.
My next stop was the Cathedral--a Baroque masterpiece all marble and gilt. Then I went to the Michaelskirche, which had been advertised in my guide book as Romanesque. I love me some Romanesque, reminding myself of Judith Starkadder and her (transferred) love of "olt churches," but this one was even better. Not Romanesque at all but Carolingian! St. Michaels was built in 832 on a plan I'd never seen before. There was a short nave and then a central plan with the altar in the middle under a dome and a colonnaded ambulatory all around. A few faint original frescos adorned the walls. What a gem!
I spent most of my time just walking around admiring the town. The historical center boasts a variety of buildings from different periods including half-timbered structures as well as those from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. On my way back to the train station, I pulled out my map to check my position. A Fuldan noticed this and asked what I was looking for. When I replied, he gave me directions--auf Deutsche--which I mostly understood. I mention this as another instance of the kindness of the German people to visitors.
That sounds like an excellent trip. I wonder if the church is akin to those northern ones, with the central altars, the tree imagery, and outside, the dragons?
ReplyDeleteNo. St. Michael's was definitely Carolingian--no Scandinavian flavor at all.
ReplyDeleteFascinating! Now I need to look it up.
ReplyDelete