One feature of European travel, at least as I do it, is figuring out the "system." For example if it were not for the kindness of one of my fellow guests yesterday, I would still be in the elevator vainly pushing the button for the third floor. The "system" here is different from the "system" in Munich. We have touch cards in Frankfurt. They do not swipe. This is easier to comprehend after some sleep. Also one has to insert the card in the card slot next to the door before the lights and utilities work. This appears to be common in Europe, so I figured it out. And then there's the plumbing. I got everything to work yesterday, but it was only this morning that I realized how they worked and how I could control it all.
I had a pretty first full day here. I am responsible for my own breakfast, so I started out with a lot of strong tea and some rye bread with melted cheese, and very nice it was. Then I made my bed, swept up and did the dishes. I am not in one of those swank rooms where this is done for me daily.
After consulting my map, I set off. I needed to stretch my legs and I knew that if I got tired, I could take public transport home. I walked back to the Hauptbahnhof but walked by it and proceeded down to the Main and across the bridge. The southern bank of the Main is referred to as Museumsufer, which I have chosen to translate as Museum Row. It's a genteel rather than bustling quarter of the city with leafy chestnuts lining the streets and fine houses--now converted to other uses. My first stop was the fine arts museum called the Stadel after the man who made the original collection. I got in for half price with my Frankfurt Card. Indeed the thing more than paid for itself today. There is a distinguished collection of late Medieval and Early Italian Gothic. I found a small Virgin Enthroned by Jan Van Eck enthralling. I got a good close look and saw every detail exquisitely finished and the texture portrayed so beautifully I could almost feel the velvet beneath my fingers. Vermeer's Geographer is there as well. Amazing! If you are a fan of Max Beckman his works are on display and very powerful they are--and very unpleasant, too. Go if you really like art. If you could take it or leave it, spend your time and euros elsewhere.
I also scored a free ticket to the sculpture museum, the Liebieghaus. In the late nineteenth century, it was a luxurious neo classical villa on the banks of the Main. Now it holds a variety of statues from Ancient Egypt on. I found the Late Medieval polychrome wood carvings especially impressive.
Then I walked on down the Main to the Museum of Applied Art (Angewandte Kunst auf Deutsch). Most visitors appeared to be there for the park-like grounds and cafe. I used my Frankfurt card to get my half price admission. One building is dedicated to Bauhaus and Twenty-first Century Post Modern and you can keep the latter as far as I am concerned. The visit continues in a sort of eighteenth century townhouse and features period rooms and an audio guide. Now we're talking! Germans in Frankfurt appear to conflate Baroque and Rococco and the displays include that and nineteenth century Biedermier, and well as Art Nouveau--Jugendstil in German.
By that time the afternoon had grown warm but I crossed the Main on the Eisensteg. There's a European custom, lately imported to the United States of engaged couples writing their names on padlocks and locking them to the sides of bridges and then tossing the key into the river.. There's one in Paris, too, so weighted down by the locks, they've had to forbid any more.
I took another quick stroll around the Romer and visited the Dom. Frankfurt Cathedral was destroyed in World War II, so one visits a reconstruction of the Gothic church where they used to crown Holy Roman Emperors. I happened to arrive during a service, so I stood in back and looked around while the soaring music made me forget my tired feet for a while. Some tourists were walking around. Please don't do this. It's so disrespectful.
By that time the afternoon had grown hot, and I was worn out. I took the U Bahn back to the Haupbahnhof and made my way home via the shopping mall for dinner and groceries. Yay! I found hummus for breakfast.
Nice. What's for dinner?
That old German classic Fisch und Chips mit remoulade. The shopping mall has a branch of the German chain Nordsee that I first encountered in Vienna. When I got home I had some water, because it's vital to stay hydrated. I had some apfelwein and nuts as an appetizer. I always pack a bag of nuts. They make a handy healthful snack. I did not like the apfelwein any better, but I got some Reisling from the Rhine region to go with my dinner. Shall we have a sip? That's very nice for something I just pulled from the grocery store shelf following my five Euro rule. It's on the dry side but not very dry. I believe I detect notes of tropical fruit. Seriously! I am not being snarky for a change.
Guten Appetiten!
Sounds like an excellent first day!
ReplyDeleteI have to agree.
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