Charles de Gaulle--Waiting to Board

 Bon jour, mes amies,

I left very early, which meant I was up most of the night packing, etc.  Pretty much right outside my aparthotel is an elevator down to the Paris Metro System.  I did not even have to mess with an escalator.  My trip here went very smoothly.

I found my check in place, managed to use the automated system to print out my boarding pass and luggage tag.  I got in line to check in when the fun began.  The man was very polite, but insistent.  The negative covid test I so proudly presented was not valid.  I got it Monday because I am used to the tests taking a couple of days.  Well, they don't do that in France.  I needed a test the day before or the day of, so I had to get a retest.

This was actually not bad.  I was directed to a tent outside.  I did not have to wait in line, and the results were ready in fifteen minutes.  Negative, of course.

So then I checked in and took the shuttle to L terminal and went through security.  CDG is getting strict.  We did not have to take off our shoes, but they wanted to see my compliant liquids (which haven't been checked for years) and even my kindle (for the first time ever).  I'm used to pulling out my computer, but they also wanted it out of its case.

I stopped in a duty free for a quick squirt of expensive scent.  I have to tell you wherever I am going at whatever airport it is, my departure gate is always, ALWAYS at the furthest reaches of the terminal.  But I'm going to be sitting for a long time, so it's good to get in some walking.

Au revoir!

Update: I am home and jet lagged out of my mind.  I have not slept for more than 24 hours.  Once I got to Los Angeles things went smoothly.  But my boarding did not.  The machine rejected my boarding pass, so I had to go through an extensive security check.  The people were very polite and respectful, and naturally I cooperated, but what was up with that.  On board a very nice young man offered to heft my bag up and down, so that was nice.

Musee de Cluny: Art of the Middle Ages

 Bon jour, mes amies,

You will be relieved to know that my Covid test situation has been sorted.  My birthdate was entered incorrectly and apparently was easy to fix.  The lovely young woman from the pharmacie even printed out my negative test results.  I should be good to go.

The Musee de Cluny is one of my favorites in Paris, so I was disappointed to learn on arrival that it was closed.  But it has now reopened, and I went for a visit after I dealt with the pharmacie and visited my bakery.  I knew I did not have to rush back for the stage because it's starting a bit later.

I had to cross the Seine and walk a bit up hill, but it was easy to find.  I got there a little after opening and had to wait in line, but once inside the place did not seem crowded.  The museum is in the heart of the Latin Quarter, not far from the Sorbonne.  The site incorporates an old Roman bath, which in the Middle Ages was adapted into a monastery.  Unfortunately the lovely herb garden was closed, but the rest of the museum was definitely worth the visit.

In my Art History teaching days, I developed a taste for Late Medieval Art, and Cluny has some outstanding examples in a variety of media.  You can also find some extremely fine works from the Early and High Middle Ages.  The ivory carvings and enamel work are amazing--some so small and detailed.  Also on exhibit is some statuary salvaged from various churches, including Notre Dame de Paris.

The Late Medieval Art is the most spectacular in my view.  I saw polychrome sculptures, energetic, action packed wood carvings. There were some wonderfully preserved ceramics, and also vivid paintings and intricate tapestries.  Of course, what people come to see is the Lady and the Unicorn, an allegory of the five senses in an exquisite tapestry.  Ok, the lion sometimes looks like a monkey, and no one knows what the little dogs are for, but it's lovely.

I took an indirect route home so I could wander down those narrow twisty streets I like so well.  But it is hot today, so I sought the shady sides of streets and was glad to get back to my room and a big glass of water.

My reflections on this trip are as follows:  I'm glad I came.  This has not been the best trip ever, but I have come back to Europe and am getting my travel habits back, and I got a lot of good walking in.  It has done me personally a world of good to go out every day and be in the world.  Yes, I wore my mask and drank green tea, so I took precautions when the French and most tourists seem to believe the Pandemic is over (hint, it's not), but I enjoyed myself and gained back my confidence.

Now I need to figure out my packing.  I won't say A demain, but if I get a chance to post from Charles De Gaulle, I will.

Merci pour votre participation. Au Revoir!

A Covid Test and Some Hunting and Gathering

 Bon jour, mes amies.

As I was making my way home, to my delight it began to rain.  Experience has taught me always to carry an umbrella in Europe, so up it went.  The day was warm and the rain gentle.  Lovely. 

Il Giro is having a rest day, so I did not need to hurry back for the stage, but I am enjoying some nice green tea, and soon I'll have apero.  I need to use up those olives.

Overnight Paris experienced a thunderstorm.  I was asleep and my room has a heavy curtain over the window, but I still saw the lightening flash.  I knew what it was, and after a few seconds came the thunder.  A bit of rain fell after a while.

So the streets were wet when I set out.  I strolled along Rue Saint Honore where I easily found the recommended pharmacy.  They are used to foreigners needing the test and were pretty fast and efficient.  I showed my passport and I had to pay, but not as much as I thought I would.  The technician stuck the q tip thing way, way up my nose.  Ugh!  But quick.  There's a hitch though. I got an email from the French Health Department.  I guess my results are ready?  But they won't accept my birthdate, so I'm going to have to go back to the pharmacy tomorrow morning and sort things out.  I'm pretty sure she did not write my birthdate down.

I circled back via my favorite bakery and picked up something for tomorrow's dinner.  I dumped it off and proceeded to Les Halles.  I'd scoped out a big store there that contained many good goodies for presents.  I got myself something, too.

This took a while, but I had plenty of time to stroll around in a leisurely way licking the occasional window and popping into promising shops.  My area abounds with narrow and sometimes twisty streets. so it's really fun to explore down them. 

And I did do something touristy today.  The Eglise de St Eustache is Right there, and I have never visited  it. so I went in today as it was open.  It's a flamboyant Gothic church and very beautiful, but there's a reason why it's not more famous.

There are some things that every visitor to Paris MUST do.  When I came here the first time I visited the Eiffel Tower and took a tour on a bateau mouche.  I would include another experience--Hot Chocolate at Angelina's.  I did this last time when they started staying open for the summer and had the Africane at the original site on the Rue di Rivoli.  It was expensive and the service was iffy, but the chocolate was so rich and gooey it made me feel a bit drunk.  The bottle I got at Galeries La Fayette was not quite like that, but it was close, and I had to eat it with a spoon.

A demain

A Sunday Stroll in the Marais

 Bon jour mes amies,

I came back early for the bike race, but also it was getting too hot and muggy for walking.  It's supposed to rain over night, but we'll see.  I seem to have brought Southern California with me because it's been very dry even when rain was in the forecast.

I went out early to get some cash and ran into a (charity?) run, which seemed like quite a big deal.  Hundreds of people wearing badges with different colors and numbers converged on Parc de Nelson Mandala, and there was a live band and all sorts of things going on.  They even had dozens of the French version of porta potties--with really long lines to use.  People with uniforms and flags directed and encouraged the participants.  Clearly from the runners, youth and fitness were not necessary qualifications, but they all looked enthusiastic.

Leaving my sweater behind, I set off for the Marais thinking that things might be a bit more lively there, and this was so.  More things were open, and I also had window licking opportunities.  It was nice to stretch my legs.

But here I am awaiting the stage and drinking green tea.  I'm going to have a apero dinatoire today.  This morning I had my croissant and the last of the divine butter.  I did a good job rationing it out and limiting consumption as I wished to focus more on cheese and foie gras for my French Saturated Fat Experience.  I have black and green olives with herbes de Provence, my tasty goat cheese, foie gras de canard, and plenty of rose, which is an AOC version from the South of France.

I am extremely puzzled as to why a major climb in the Heart of Italy is called Blockhaus.  Maybe the commentators will explain it.  The charming young man currently wearing the leader's jersey is likely to lose it today, but he had a good run and apparently enjoyed bossing the pelaton around.  I resorted to google to satisfy my curiosity, the name of the climb dates back to the bad old days of Austrian occupation before Italy was unified.  A notorious Austrian Commander held the mountain top as his stronghold and the name stuck. And finally the commentators explained it probably due to popular demand.

A demain

Back to Les Grandes Boulevards

 Bon jour, mes amies,

The bike race is starting later today, so I got in a good day of touristing.  I started out with some chores.  I went to get a croissant at the fancy bakery.  It's in the freezer.

Why don't you just get one fresh on Sunday morning?"

You'll find plenty of bakeries open on Sundays, but Julien is closed up tight, and anyway I eat early.  I also had to go to the grocery store.  A lot of things are closed on Sundays in Europe. I had to learn to plan ahead.

I also got a notice from Air France.  They need me to fill out a form stating that I have had a negative covid test.  I asked one of the nice young people at reception to print it for me.  It looks like Air France is willing to take my word for it, but I think U.S. Border Control is going to want proof.  Fortunately the staff here is familiar with the need and I was directed to a pharmacy where I can be tested on Monday.

Right now I am sipping green tea and awaiting the stage.

It was a nice day--good for walking--and as you may have noticed, I just like walking around the city.  Many of the buildings are beautiful.  They have shops on the ground floor and maybe offices on the first floor, but then there are apartments above.  I often wonder what it would be like to live in one.  I suspect chronic plumbing problems.

So it's nice to enjoy some sunshine and fresh air in a beautiful city with plenty of windows to lick and cute dogs to admire.  I took a new route via Rue Monmartre which winds around a bit, but then empties into Boulevard Monmartre, which changes its name it seems every two blocks.  I was soon walking on Boulevard Hausmann where I immediately came upon a flea market--what the French call Brocante.  It wasn't a big one, but there were a few fun looking things.  I don't buy what I can't pack though.

Yes, I was going back to Galeries La Fayette in particular the food store.  I thought rightly that it would be a good place to pick up some presents, but I had a good look around at everything.  I came upon a refrigerated case full of nothing but luxury appetizers.  Savory petite fours, anyone?  I am glad I didn't know about this before or my elderly digestion surely would have suffered overload.  I'm going to be content with olives, the last of the dolmas, and some Valencay cheese today.  I'll have some pasta for dinner. 

I did buy some things at Galeries La Fayette,  I found something I know that my friends like that came in packable form.  I also got something naughty that I can't pack, so I'll have to consume it here as soon as I figure out how.  

A demain

An update.  I was watching the race and almost dozing when my doorbell rang.  Usually my room is done on Sunday, but she showed up today.  I had to get dressed and vacate.  I took my lap top with me to watch the race, but I'm back now, and I decided to have a treat--the naughtiness I mentioned earlier.  I got some Angelina hot chocolate in a bottle and I heated it up in my microwave.  Hot chocolate madness!  So rich.

Opera Garnier

 Bon jour, mes amies,

Yes, I went back, and La Opera is definitely worth a visit.  Lavish is the word for this building. Napoleon III himself requested a grand opera house and chose Charles Garnier to design and decorate it.  The location was carefully chosen to take advantage of Baron Hausmann's reworking of Paris streets as it has its own grand avenue and is just off the Grandes Boulevards.  The building simply screams Second Empire grandiosity, and yet it manages to be beautiful and harmonious albeit overwhelming.

When I got there, a long line had already formed, and the site opened late.  I amused myself watching clueless visitors march up to the entrance.  They must have thought the rest of us were lined up for funsies.  The attendants directed them to the rear of the line.

The exterior is ornate with statues, pilasters, cornices, and reliefs.  There's an Art Historical term horror vacui. Every available surface has its decoration.  The outside does not compare with the interior which has all of those plus mosaics and frescos. I wondered how much gold leaf was employed.  Acres, I imagine.  One can rent an audio guide, but I did not.  While waiting to go upstairs (A school group of little kids had to be sorted out) a woman spoke to me in French.  I replied apologetically in English, "I'm a tourist."  She brightened.  "Me, too!"  She asked me to take a photo of her with her phone, and of course, I was happy to oblige.  Plenty of people have helped me out in just this way on my journeys.

I had a good wander.  A few of the boxes are open.  I got a good view (and photo) of the lovely Marc Chagall fresco in the central dome.  I also marveled at the various vestibules meant as a place for the fashionable world to gather before and after the performances.  Some costumes from past performances are on display.  A lot of us went out on the balcony that overlooks the Place and Avenue de la Opera for a great view of the chaos.

My trips there taught me to value the quiet and lack of bustle of my own neighborhood.  Driving in Paris must be a horror show.  I would not even take a taxi lest I die of fear.  I am astounded that there are not more accidents.  And if you need the police or an emergency vehicle--well, don't hold your breath.  They are stuck in traffic like everyone else.  A couple of Very Swank Hotels are in this area.  The rest are on the Champs Elysees.  I'll stick to Les Halles.

I hard boiled some eggs this morning and am having one with my apero.  I also stopped on the way back at my favorite fast food place.  You may be surprised I have one, but I have always enjoyed Pret a Manger.  Despite the French name it's a British outfit.  All the food is organic and fair trade, not to mention delicious.  I have never been disappointed.  As a bonus, they were one of the first food sellers to do social outreach to the homeless and hungry.  A few outlets exist in the United States and if you run across one, don't hesitate to stop in.  I got a Salad Nicoise Wrap to remind myself of all those Pan Bagnats I ate in Nice.  This one isn't authentic, but it sure is good!

A demain

Grandes Boulevard and Galeries La Fayette

 Bon jour, mes amies,

The title of the post was meant to be Opera Garnier, but this has been that kind of trip.  It was closed today.  I got a good look at the outside and took a photo, but I'll have to go back another day.  As it happens I have never been inside.

I am sorting myself out before the stage begins.  They will be back on the mainland of Italy.

I chose the Opera because it's on this side of the river, and while longish, the walk to it was flat and simple--just go down Rue Saint Honore and turn onto Avenue de la Opera, and one cannot miss the target.  It's that huge, ornate building at the end of the street.

But I started out the day with a trip to the Bourse where I could find my bank's French partner.  I like that particular place because I can go inside to use the ATM.  As it happens there was another branch on Avenue de la Opera, but I did not know that.

Avenue de la Opera is also lined with high end chocolate shops.  These stores are beautiful as are the wares, and correspondingly expensive.  I just licked the windows, but it would be rude to come to France and not eat their chocolate, and you know I am nothing but polite.

So after walking nearly all around that gigantic building, I found the ticket office closed.  Well, bummer.  But wait!  All is not lost.  Raising my eyes I saw that I was a block away from Galeries La Fayette.  I made my way there.  Now I actually did not go into the main department store.  Instead I attended the food hall.  Oh My Goodness.  The Galeries have really stepped up their game.  It's gorgeous and comprehensive and could rival Harrods.  There's a grocery store downstairs where the fruit, veg, wine, cheese, etc. are.  The ground floor is specialty counters, and yes, I did buy something. But pretty much anything your heart desired including caviar is on offer.  Legendary chef Alain Ducasse has his own brand of chocolate now.  The displays of everything are highly tempting and also pricey, but the quality is of the highest.

When I woke up this morning I realized I was Out Of Cheese--a horrid state of affairs that could not be allowed to continue.  I was willing to cheat on Rue Montorgueil with Galeries La Fayette, but they did not have the cheese I wanted, so I came home via my favorite cheese shop on the Rue.  I really like Rocamador, but I could not find it when I first got here.  I wonder if it's a seasonal product.  It's a young goat cheese that comes in delicate disks. I even eat the rind. I also got some Valencay because I love it so much.

I noticed in my wanderings an unusual police presence on the streets and coming home there were armed guards (with very serious looking weapons) who were patrolling the park around the Les Halles shopping center.  I'm guessing there was some kind of terrorist threat, but no one seemed to be concerned and we all carried on.

I am having a far more luxurious apero than usual.  I have olives with herbes de Provence, a disk of Rocamador, some foie gras, and a dolmas--I picked a few up at the Galeries.  There was a counter of Mediterranean Delights that simply screamed mezze or apero or whatever version takes your fancy.

Now for some bike racing.

A demain