Heat and the Belvedere--or at Least Part of It.

 

Gruss Gott, 

Vienna is under a dangerous heat advisory, and tomorrow will be worse. I did go out, and I plan to tomorrow as well, but I'll be coming home early.

My target for today was Prince Eugen of Savoy's Baroque palace he called The Belvedere. Last time I was here I walked to it. This time I opted for public transportation. After consulting google maps I determined to take the U Bahn to Stadtpark and then walk. I went to Stephensplaz and obtained a forty-eight hour pass from the machine. I am a champ at using ticket machines in Europe. My secret? When they ask what language I prefer I choose English.

This time I remembered to validate my ticket before boarding. When I first arrived I did take the U Bahn, but in my jet lagged haze forgot (And I did know I should) to validate the ticket. I got away with it, too, but I felt guilty.

Vienna's subways are very nice and easy to use. I changed lines at Landstrasse and got off at Stadtpark and followed the directions to Belvedere that I got from google maps. For a wonder I did not get turned around and found the entrance easily.  But it was already Very Hot by the time I arrived.

The Belvedere comes in two parts. I stuck to the Lower Belvedere, but I plan to visit the Upper Belvedere later. I did take the opportunity to stroll in the lovely palace garden, where I admired the statuary and fountains and talked to the birds I saw.  Someday when I come here the Grand Cascade will be working. It's a huge fountain that gushes between the two Belvederes.

I entered the Lower Belvedere with my trusty Vienna Pass. This is when I learned that entering one Belvedere automatically registered the other, and I was given a yellow ribbon to show I was legit.  I meant to return to see the Upper Belvedere tomorrow, but that will have to wait.

The Lower Belvedere is mostly used as an exhibition space for Modern Art. The offerings were the works of two women, one a surrealist, and the other more of a Matisse-like style with subdued Northern coloring.

The visitor can also see a few of Prince Eugen's sumptuous rooms. What I was really after was the collection of Late Medieval Art, which I like very much, but I also realize it's not to everyone's taste. I found a lot of highly colored altarpieces and polychrome statuary. I know what's going on because I am familiar with Bible stories and iconography, so if you chance on a similar exhibit you might want me along to explain things.

When I came out it was HOT. I made my way back to the U Bahn station and got my train. I stopped off at Landstrasse where I stopped on my way into town. I wanted to have a look at the shopping mall, which to my jet lagged brain appeared fascinating. On examination it was not, but I did get a bottle of water which I sorely needed at that point. Then I got the train for Stephansplaz and home.  The trip was marred by the presence of a busker in my car--in fact he and his accordion was right next to me. Some people gave him money. These folks wouldn't do it if it didn't pay, but I find the forced "entertainment" annoying.

But on my way home I found Rotenturmstrasse clogged with tour groups, most of whose members were elderly. Walking around the city in this heat can't be fun.

Servus

Kunsthistoriches Museum--Vienna's Fine Art Museum

 Gruss Gott,

So far I have been doing fairly easy tourist venues, but I have been here a while, and it's a Tour de France rest day, so it's time to tackle a Bigger Project, namely the Kunsthistoriches Museum.  At the Albertina we had Modern Art. Here we find a major collection of earlier periods mostly Baroque, but with excursions into the Renaissance and Late Middle Ages. But frankly the building is so magnificently ornate that it would be worth visiting for itself. The contents are frosting on the marble and gilt cake.

Since it's Monday, I began my day by going to the grocery store. I needed more bread and hummus. I also got some pasta and a sauce to try with it. Austria is known for white wine, but they have nice red wine, too, from Burgenland, so I got that and I am having some for apero.

I took the long way around to the museum because I enjoy the city and I needed the exercise. I still got there before the museum opened and stood in line. It turns out I didn't have to. I could enter directly with my cool Vienna Pass.  And potential visitors, this is a good deal as admission to the museums can run twenty euro or more.

The collection is World Class, but the tour groups tend to cluster around the masterpieces, which can be annoying, and during my visit some of the rooms were blocked off.  I enjoyed it anyway. The exhibit of Rubens is distinguished. There are fine Van Dykes as well as a lot of fun Dutch genre paintings. I recognized the names, but I taught Art History. One gem is Vermeer's Art of Painting where the artist (Vermeer himself seen from the back) is immortalizing Clio the Proclaimer, Muse of History in oils. We can also find Caravaggio, Veronese, Tinteretto, and even a few Canalettos.

There is also Velasquez, the court painter to the Spanish Hapsburgs who churned out portrait after portait of the Spanish Infantas, who were destined to marry their uncles from Austria. Urk. But it's ok because the traffic also went in the other direction. Not. Do you want Carlos Secondo? Because this is how you get Carlos Secondo. Google him and weep.

My apero for this afternoon is unusual. I came home via the famous Viennese gourmet grocery Julius Meinl, which is quite a place and well worth a visit. If you want to spend a lot of money on comestables, this is the place to come for caviar, truffles, and bottles of wine costing hundreds of euros. But don't be put off. They also carry a lot of touristy snacky items and souvenir sorts of things that are reasonably priced and nicely packaged.

I did buy something, but I am almost embarrassed to admit what. It is not a product of Austria. I came upon a display of a selection of butter by Pascal Beillevaire (raw milk from Normandy and Brittany grass fed cows).  I asked myself. "When will you return to Paris?" I didn't have an answer, so I sprang for the demi sel crouqant. Spread thickly on the great Austrian bread it is celestial! And a sip of red Burgenland just adds to the pleasure.

But always remember:

No kangaroos in Austria!

Servus

The Imperial Treasury and Some Self Indulgence

Gruss Gott,

I always carry an umbrella in Europe, a practice that has served me very well over the years. As I set out it began to sprinkle and a bit later there was full blown rain. In July. I loved it! 

I had an easy stroll back through the Hofburg complex to find the Imperial Treasury, but when I tried to call up my Vienna Pass I got . . . nothing. After numerous tries, I asked the guy at the ticket office, who realized I needed to tap into the museums free wifi network. That did the trick, and I was launched.

This is the sort of museum I enjoy, but I'm not sure about the general public.  It's mostly Imperial and Liturgical Regalia, and most of the museum is dimly lit in order to preserve the colors of the various talbards, copes, capes, etc--intricately and marvelously embroidered in gold and silver thread. I couldn't help wondering how much those garments weighed.

Some jewelry, mostly from chivalric orders is displayed along with precious objects of gold, silver, and amber, some heavily bejeweled.  I would say the most popular exhibits are the crowns, and the Hapsburgs did collect quite a few. There are several Austrian State Crowns, but also one from Hungary taken from a would be Protestant usurper and the crown of the Kingdom of Lombardy-Venetia created by the Congress of Vienna to the dismay of the Italian inhabitants of those regions.

The photo is of the cradle of Napoleon's son. After discarding Josephine, Napoleon persuaded the Hapsburgs to cough up Princess Marie Louise to be his new Empress. After his fall she returned to Austria with their son, who was given the courtesy title King of Rome.  The cradle is so full of imperial iconography, I wonder how the poor child slept. Unfortunately he died young

I strolled around in the rain walking down Graben named after a defensive ditch that used to mark the ancient boundary of the city.  Touristy shops and cafes and food outlets were open, but nothing else was. Still the scene was lively.

I am not having apero this afternoon. After I left the museum, I went to Demal--pastry makers to the Imperial Court, but now purveying to us plebs as well. There's a cafe, a take away window for hot drinks, a shop--and (slurp) the pastry counter.  I got something called a Dorycake. I have no idea what this is, but it sure looks lush. To accompany this treat I have a nice cup of green tea in hope that the polyphenols will counteract some of the sugar.

I'm going to force myself to have a taste, because we understand I am only eating this to be polite. There's an extremely moist cake layer topped with a rich tasting but magically light chocolate mousse. It's wonderful. These things don't come cheap. I paid nearly eight euros for it.

Before coming home I made another stop. This time at Nordsee, a fast food chain specializing in fish and other seafood. You can sit and eat, but I went to the take away counter for some fish and chips. They do it well in continental fashion. I eat a lot of fish on the Mediterranean Diet. The fries-well--they are a very rare treat, and anyway, I am on vacation.

Well, the portion of fish while tasty is meager and the proportion of breading to actual fish is a bit much. It comes with tarter sauce which is good. The chips are nice and thick and crisp. The dish goes well with some chilled Gruner Veltliner.

Servus

The Albertina

 

Gruss Gott,

Summer in Vienna--it's going to be hot and probably humid, but it doesn't get bad until late afternoon. When I was out it was breezy, which was refreshing, but didn't do my short hair any good.

Before we get to the tourist action, let's talk about traffic. Now much of the historic center of Vienna is pedestrianized--so very civilized and an acknowledgement that, unlike my hometown, which is made for cars, this city is made for people. But there are vehicles, and the Austrian drivers are attentive, polite, and careful. I never worry about crossing the street. Even the busses and cyclists are nice to pedestrians. I am betting that this is one factor making Vienna the Most Livable City once again.

Today's target was the Albertina Art Museum. I am still jet lagged, so I wanted something easy that was within good walking distance. I actually took a longer route because I wanted to stroll down Karchnerstrasse, which is one of the main shopping drags in Vienna and in my memory glowed with one K und K pastry shop after another.

Pil, what is this K und K?

It stands for Kaiserlich und Koeniglich. In other words Imperial and Royal as the Emperors of Austria were also Kings of Hungary--and a lot of other places.  And, well, I did find one. I wonder if I'm mistaking the street. At any rate I'm saving the pastry for later.

The Albertina is Vienna's museum of Modern Art. I understand that a lot of people don't like it, and I understand why.  I have artists that I deeply appreciate. For example I like the Fauves--the "Wild Beasts," who went nuts for color. One of my favorites is Emil Nolde.  The Albertina has a distinguished collection of Picasso. I like many of his works. Others leave me cold. The guy had an unfortunate attitude toward women although he painted them often.  One can also find Impressionists (Monet, for example) Surrealists, and some lovely works by Marc Chagall.

But something else attracted me to the place. Yes. There are Period Rooms! The museum was once a place occupied by Maria Theresa and later her favorite daughter, Maria Christina who married Albert, the Duke of Saxony in case you were wondering where the name of the museum came from. 

These rooms tend toward the Rococo. The furnishings are a bit sparse, but what is there is definitely worth seeing. What I don't get is how people--and I witnessed this today--can walk through these wonderful places glued to their phones.

I had a nice stroll home. Stores are closed on Sundays in pious Austria, so I have to make sure I have supplies. But I might be able to get take out as a treat.

Servus.

Der Hofburg--and That Little Bit Too Much of Sisi

 Gruss Gott!

And in Breaking News, Vienna has once again topped the charts of most livable cities. Being here it is easy to believe.

The afternoon turned hot, so I'm glad to be here with my apero consisting of chilled rose and almonds awaiting the Individual Time Trial of the Tour de France.

I got a pretty good nights sleep. The jet lag is not over, but it is much improved, and I thoroughly enjoyed my day out. I obtained on line something called The Vienna Pass. You can google it. Most cities that have significant tourist traffic have a version, and most of the time they are a good deal.  The visitor doesn't have to fumble for cash or credit card at the ticket office--just flash the pass. Sometimes there's a highly-valuable "skip the line" feature. In my younger days, I got the pass to pay for itself in two or three days. No longer, but the Vienna Pass holder gets discounted admission (which can be quite steep, but the sites are worth it) to museums and other goodies. I had mine sent to my phone.

The target for the day is the Hofburg Palace of the later Habsburgs. I got directions and it was an easy walk that took longer than it should have because Someone needs to stop and gawk or else lick windows. I walked through Bougiegasse with all the luxury brands represented, but I was not interested in those windows.

I successfully achieved admission with my phone and Vienna Card. I was surprised because I expected to have to stand in line, but I got there right after opening and got right in. Admission includes an excellent audio guide.

I went to use the toilet and was startled when I nearly ran into an old lady. It was a mirror and the oldster was--me. 

Then I proceeded upstairs to the Imperial Apartments.  I had to proceed downstairs, too, because I'd dropped my ticket and needed to scan it to get in. The first stop is the Sisi Museum. Look. I get it. A lot of people are fascinated by the Kaiserin Elisabeth married at sixteen--probably against her will--to her cousin Emperor Franz Josef of Austria and a lot of other places. He adored her. She liked him, but after a while and the tragic deaths of some of her children, she did not like being Empress.

She was creditably regarded as the most beautiful woman of her age, an image she took care to milk and which the museum highlights.  I would have put her on meds and found her morbid self absorption tiresome, but mental illness did run in her family. Also a lot of the exhibits in the Sisi Museum are replicas. The labels are frank about this.

I enjoyed the Imperial Apartments more. I have a passionate fondness for period rooms.  One interesting feature was the homey, austere taste of Franz Josef contrasted with his wife's flamboyant taste for luxury.  Their bedrooms and bathrooms tell the tale.

Most of the rooms forbade photography, which frankly did not stop most people, but I want to respect the site. Anyway, it's best to just look around and appreciate the beautiful furniture and decorations.

The visit ends with a trip through the shop. There's something for everyone, but most of it was labeled Schonbrunn, so I figured I could wait.

After I left the palace I took a stroll through the gorgeous Volkpark loving the greenery and the flowers and fountains. Of course, I ended up not knowing where I was, but I am used to getting lost and I just keep going. I walked past a lot of beautiful buildings and just followed my instincts as to the direction. I figured that if all else failed I would find the U Bahn and get home that way. I did find a U Bahn, but I realized I was close to my neighborhood and kept walking. I stopped at the grocery store because I wanted to try the white wine my friend Sartorias mentioned or I hope it is.

This is Stift Kloster Neuburg produced at a major and desperately historical monastery outside of town, which I visited last time I was here and it was a lot of fun. Shall we have a sip? Just keep in mind I am far from an expert. Nice. A bit sweeter than Gruner Verveltner. You are more likely to find the latter in your wine suppler though. 

Servus!

Easing into Vienna

 Gruss Gott!

I got very little sleep and felt pretty lousy this morning, but I did get out and walk around this wonderful city, and it did me good. One place I fetched up was Stephensplatz, which is widely regarded as the heart of the city. I tried to take a picture of the magnificent gothic cathedral Stephensdom with my phone. Better than nothing I guess.  It was not a long walk to get there either. I really lucked out once again in regard to my accommodations. 

To be sure I am paying for the privilege. This is high season, and Vienna is an expensive city, but what a place! Vienna is a perennial victor in the most livable cities rankings. It's beautiful, easy to get around, and social supports are in place.  The only grumpy Austrians I've run into are beggars. The others seem quietly happy all the time, and they certainly are very gracious to visitors. I have already had to ask for help, and people could not have been kinder.

I have been here before and am looking forward to returning to some great sites. In fact my first appearance as a travel blogger was Vienna back in 2009, and you can read the posts. You will notice that I consumed sugar and sausage like a champ. I also got around a lot. Well, the years have taken a toll, and I can no longer do that. I will HAVE to have pastry and sausage at some point, because it's rude to come here and refuse Viennese treats, and if anything, I am an extremely polite traveler, but mostly I need to stick to a more or less Mediterranean Diet, and I can't tourist for eight hours straight either.

Vienna is Sugar City. Seriously. Candy is EVERYWHERE--for us tourists, I guess. Even my well equipped grocery store has a candy section--quite large--on Every Single Floor, and as I strolled around I saw many stores dedicated to candy--some of it looking--well, not appetizing.

I visited an ATM. They recognize foreign cards and ask which language you prefer. I had to go back to the grocery store because I needed more bread. It was so good, I ate the bread that was supposed to last me days. I had it thickly spread with hummus this morning.  Tasty and healthful, right?

And here's a special treat for one of my readers. I was too jet lagged yesterday to notice, but her old hangout when she was an exchange student is just a few doors away.

Hoping to get more sleep tonight, so stay tuned for some real tourist action tomorrow.

Servus!

Wilcommen im Vienna

 

Gruss Gott!

The photo is of my neighborhood. I think we can all appreciate a statue of Guttenberg.

I'm a bit wilted and jet lagged but glad to be here and settled in. Do Austrians do apero? They, like other Europeans, like Aperol Spritz, so I'm going to continue my habit. Right now I'm drinking water to cure the dehydration.

My rides to the airport always show up early, but I've learned to anticipate that and be ready. I joined the Twenty-first Century and had my boarding pass delivered to my phone, so all I had to do was print out the luggage tag and drop off my bag. Security was a bit of a pain. The last two times we did not have to take off our shoes. This time we did.

There are now non-stop flights to Vienna! I do not like changing planes. I do it, but there's always a chance of a missed connection.  My premium economy seat was roomy and comfortable. I had a pleasant seat mate and I even got a little sleep, which does help. Dinner was kind of meh, but the Austrian wine served was very pleasant, and we got a good breakfast. The charming flight attendant even offered me lemon for my tea. Yum!

One interesting thing. Air turbulence has been in news recently. Airlines have always recommended that passengers keep their seat belts fastened at all times, which is something I do. On my flight keeping seat belts fastened was presented as a requirement.  Good.

I had to wait around for my luggage, but I did have the company of my pleasant seat mate in Vienna to visit her family.  Having retrieved my bags I set out in search of public transportation. I couldn't find the airport bus, so I took the City Airport Train to Wien Mitte and then the U Bahn to Schwedenplaz, and then walked up to my place--only getting turned around once.

This is Austria, so everything is automated. I'd paid for early check in, and the residence sent me detailed, illustrated instructions on how to check in. I entered the code and pushed the thingy. Nada--or I should say Nichts. Fortunately a kind gentleman who spoke English and had stronger fingers than I do helped me out.

I unpacked and went in search of groceries.  I love google maps. The grocery store is nice, but it's three stories, and I am jet lagged, but I got my supplies. My aparthotel is on a nice, quiet street in a prime location. I'll enjoy my stay.

Right now I'm sipping rose and eating a snack sandwich I snaffled from the airline while watching the Tour de France. I may or may not have a proper dinner later.

Servus!