A Proper Good Afternoon to You
The English love to snack, but they don't do Apero. This, however, is not going to stop me. I had a solid first full day in London, so I feel I've earned it--and it's special. On the way home I passed by Covent Garden, and I recognized the street was near to Neal's Yard Dairy. Cheese! And not just any old cheese. It's carefully crafted traditional and artisan sorts produced on actual farms. One pays for this, of course, but the cheese is a genuine revelation. For example the Welsh Cheddar I bought bears very little resemblance to the yellow industrial stuff one buys wrapped in plastic. The cheery young shop assistant gave me a taste. Oh yeah--that lovely rich, tangy flavor! So I'm having some on a water cracker I got at the store.
It's been eight years since my last visit, so things have changed. For one thing a lot of the attractions ask the visitor to book ahead on line, and a few new things have opened. I also had to get new adaptors because I have a new computer, phone, and kindle.
I did get some sleep last night--not enough--but then I don't get enough at home. I decided I wanted to go somewhere familiar that I was craving to visit. The National Gallery fit the bill. My location in Central London is prime. I can walk to a lot of sites, and I more or less know my way around. My neighborhood has everything I could possibly want, including a new Waterstones book store across the street. The trees are in full leaf, and I stayed on the shady side of the street as I made my way down High Holborn to Shaftsbury Avenue to Charing Cross Road, licking windows along the way.
My plan was to show up early to the National Gallery before the crowds arrived. Ha ha ha ha ha ha. Jokes on me. Even though the Gallery was not yet open a huge throng of people with tour groups and advanced booking were lined up. They were let in first, but I got in eventually. The place was packed.
The National Gallery is rather a project, the collection being outstanding for Early Modern and some Modern Art. If you really want Modern you must go to both versions of the Tate, which I intend to do. All these museums are justly popular. Since I taught many of the works exhibited, a visit seems like a reunion with old friends.
I whiled away a few hours enjoying Late Medieval and Early Renaissance Art, which I like quite a bit, but you can also find High Renaissance in the form of Raphael's St. Catherine, and Leonardo's fascinating Virgin of the Rocks. You don't want to miss Holbein's The French Ambassadors. Make sure ask the attendant where to stand to see the skull snap into place.
I didn't get much of a look at the Arnofini Marriage because it's a target of tour and school groups. It's one that repays close study for its symbolism, rich colors and textures. Another painting I love for its outstanding beauty is Bacchus and Ariadne by Titian. I could go on and one. The collection is a roll call of the greats as well as lesser known artists (Well, I know them) that one could come to appreciate.
But I got tired, and my feet ached, and the crowd was getting to me, so I made my way home, but I did stop at the cheese shop and the grocery store. I'm trying to decide what to have for dinner. It's still very warm, so I'll probably opt for the Coronation Chicken Sandwich, so I can compare it to another one I know. I also wonder if His Majesty King Charles III's coronation banquet will also inspire another iconic dish.
Cherrio!
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