Various Historic Destinations

 Buon Giorno,

I set out fairly early on a very pleasant, sunny morning and made my familiar way down Via Po.  I turned aside and walked a few blocks to have a look at the Mole Antonelliana, a large and elaborate building with a high fancy tower.  It holds the Museum of Cinema, and if one cares to (I didn't) you can pay to take the elevator up the tower.  I understand the views are spectacular.

I continued down Via Po to the Piazza Castelo and the Palazzo Reale.  After my visit to the Palazzo, I did walk in the garden, but I was tired by that time and did not do the park justice.  I wanted to make up for that today.  A visitor can just walk through the entrance to the Palazzo to the garden.  It's evidently a very popular place for the Torinesi and their dogs on a spring morning.  I had a lovely stroll and enjoyed the illusion of not being in the heart of the city as I walked among the trees and fountains.

Then I made my way to the Porta Palatina in the archeological park. I seldom pass up a chance to visit Roman Ruins.  Julia Augusta Taurinorum was a walled city and the only entrance was this Porta Palatina. It's still standing and looks pretty good although I suspect some restoration work.  There are also remains of the city wall plus other bits and pieces.

I circled back to visit San Giovanni, which is the cathedral of the city.  One can find bigger and grander churches, but they are in the Baroque style.  San Giovanni is early Renaissance.  The exterior is plain, but the interior is rich in side chapels with painting and sculptures.  The church's real claim to fame is that it holds The Shroud of Turin, and no, it is not the genuine burial cloth of Christ.  For one thing it does not match the description given in the Gospels. It appears to be a Thirteenth Century painting, which gives the mysterious appearance of a 3D negative.  I did not see the Shroud.  It is displayed only on Holy Days, but you can look at its container.

From the sacred to the profane.  I forgot to mention that in my wanderings yesterday in one of the major shopping piazzas I came across what appeared to be a vending machine.  No big deal, right?  Except this one (in English!) advertised high quality light cannabis.

For apero I had some toasts I got at the grocery store with the Robiola slightly melted and the frizzante Barbera.  Lovely!  Since my red wine is from Piedmonte, I got some white wine from Sardinia also DOC and pretty good.  It goes well with my pasta.

Ciao for now

Shopping while Wandering Around

 Buon Giorno

Since it's a warm day, and I had walked a lot, I stopped at my local gelateria for a treat. On my first trip to Italy many years ago now, my first taste of gelato was hazelnut or nocciola.  It was Divine!  And still my favorite after trying many other flavors.  Truly wonderful stuff.

I began my day with a trip to a grocery store.  The mini markets close by just didn't have good selection or a lot of basic things.  I had the idea that the larger--but still small--grocery store was a longish walk.  It turns out it's not.  I came back with a full bag and some Piedmontese products with which to abuse my digestion and arteries.  I love foreign grocery stores, so I had a good look around.  The museums are all closed on Monday, so this was my dose of Italian Culture.

Since the museums were closed, I decided to check out the shopping in Torino.  There's a lot on offer, but not necessarily things I would buy for myself or my friends.  The sidewalks on main streets and squares are covered.  In Bologna they would be called long porticos.  I suppose one could use the word arcade in Torino.  I made my way up Via Po and turned away from the castle onto Via Roma, which is one of the main shopping streets in Torino and is famed for it's luxury brands.  You'd recognize the name but neither I nor most of my friends have any interest beyond licking a window or two.

But I had a very nice walk.  Street musicians were playing.  At once point my meanderings were accompanied by Pachelbel's Canon in D.  I did spend some money.  I came across a charming chocolate shop that looked like it had some superior goods.  I bought some presents and a sampler bag for my own research purposes.  I was the only one in the shop at that point, but when I walked by on my way back, it was packed.

This part of Torino is pedestrianized and the building and galleries are particularly elegant in what is generally a classically regular city center.  You can find a cafe/bar on every block--sometimes in multiples, and the Torinesi and their visitors seem always up for a drink and a pastry.  The city rivals Lisbon in its tastes for sweets.  The Torinesi are also very fond of their dogs, who are well behaved and like going with their person to shop or socialize.

I got myself some Piedmont Robiola cheese from Alba and some Mortadella.  Ok the latter is from Emilia-Romagna, not Piedmont, but I developed a taste for it when I visited Bologna.  The World Health Organization doesn't like me eating it, so please don't report me.  I only eat cured meat in Europe where there's a chance the traditional methods of making it are less toxic.  To go along I have some Denominazione di Origini Controllata Barbera del Monferrato.  It's frizzante, which means it's a big fizzy and a beautiful ruby color to boot.  Shall we have a sip?  Nice.  Very refreshing.  Clearly it's time for Apero.

Ciao for now

Palazzo Reale

 Buon Giorno,

The Palazzo Reale is a project--at least if you are like me and insist on visiting every part open to the public. The place is a monument to Torino's, the Kingdom of Savoy's, and the Kingdom of Sardinia-Piedmont's past power and glory.  It is huge, and as far as I can tell only about two thirds is open to the public.

The Palazzo opens earlier than other museums and is justly popular.  I did not get there right at opening because I was distracted.  When I came out onto Piazzia Vittorio Veneto this morning I was surprised and delighted to find people setting up a market.  I promised myself a visit once my tourist business at the Palazzo was done.

I had wait in line to get in, but that was nothing compared to the snaking line at the entrance when I was came out.  I used my Torino+Piemonte card (In a mere two days, I have gotten half the value of the five day card) and was directed toward the express ticketing, which did us card holders no good as there were women with multiple print outs and phones who seemed to take forever to get their business done.

But the wait was worth it.  Our visit begins with the State Apartments, and I can only compare them in splendor with Versailles.  This is serious Royal Stuff.  Many of the rooms are gigantic. My general advice when visiting these places is always to look up.  Most of the rooms have ceiling frescos or ornately coffered and in-laid ceilings.  The rooms are packed with art treasures of furniture, paintings, sculpture, and ceramics.  It's very, very beautiful in Baroque and Rococo style, but grand enough to be oppressive as one goes through room after elaborately decorated room.  You can also visit the "Chapel of the Shroud," but don't expect to see said Shroud because it's actually elsewhere. The Royal Armory is not to be missed. The collection of armor and arms is spectacular.  They put knights on stuffed battle horses. This is where most of the tourist action is. It's crowded and guided tours can impede one's progress.  I truly enjoyed the view, but it was a lot, and I was relieved to get to quieter, less crowded parts of the Palazzo.

The Palazzo Reale is a complex of galleries, so my next stop was to see the Royal Collection of Paintings, which is pretty impressive.  I spotted a couple of nice Titians, plus some Veronese, and a lot of very nice work from artists I did not know.  And there is plenty spaced over two big floors and very well lit and exhibited.  Along with the paintings you will find portrait busts of the various Dukes of Savory and Kings of Sardinia, etc.

But wait, there's more!  Not everyone shares my taste for Antiquities. so this part of the Palazzo was nearly empty.  Torino boasts the oldest Museum of Antiquities in Europe.  I visited the collection of archeological finds from Torino itself and vicinity, which compared to some places is undistinguished, but some of the items were interesting. There's an Archeological Gallery that is packed full of things the Dukes/Kings bought.  I always appreciate Greek Vases, and the remains of the Etruscans and I found both and a lot of Roman portrait busts--another thing I enjoy seeing.

That accomplished it was time for a stroll in the Royal Gardens.  By this time it had warmed up, and it was lovely walking around appreciating the fountain and the shade cast by the trees.

As it happens I am not as young as I used to be, so I turned down Via Po for home, stopping to get cash at an ATM and attending the market on the Piazza.  I didn't see anything I wanted to buy, but I noted with interest that several booths were selling local honey.  Piedmont does not produce olives or oil, but it's neighbor Liguria does.  I actually have some very nice Ligurian oil I bought at the gourmet shop.  Speaking of the shop, I am having some lasagne with asparagus for dinner along with my rich, red Barbera wine.  AND I have a bike race coming up. 

Ciao for now

A Great Day Out

 Buon Giorno,

This is more like it.  I had a pretty heavy-duty tourist day, but first--a Very Special Apero.  One of Piedmont's famed culinary treasures is the white truffle.  Now truffle season is in October, and I probably couldn't afford them fresh even if I attended. One can buy them canned or jarred, but experts say these are an inferior product.  In the tourist zone across from the castle I found a truffle shop selling truffle flavored potato chips.  I was not capable of resistance.  Yes, a small bag was expensive, but I came home hungry and boy are they good--for those of us who like truffles. Not everyone does, but this is ok because it means more for me.

It was a bit chilly when I set out, but a brilliantly sunny morning.  It's begun to cloud over in the afternoon with more rain in the forecast for tomorrow.  For people who like to follow on google earth.  I begin in Piazza Vittorio Veneto. I made my way down Via Po to the Piazza Castillo.  I found the Tourist Information office and obtained my Torino+Piemonte Card.  I got the five day version and broke it in today.  I strolled down Via Academia di Scienze to Piazza Carlo Alberto where I found the Palazzo Carignano, which I particularly wanted to see as it was one of the buildings I taught in Art History.  One finds the Baroque mostly in churches, but when one finds a secular building in that style it's a must see.  I visited the Museum of the Risorgimento.  It is dedicated to the growth of Italian Nationalism (They are still working on it.) and the struggle to unify the peninsula under one government while kicking the foreigners out.  This was an issue dating back to Machiavelli.  The building is magnificent and ornate, and some of the rooms have the original ceiling frescos and decoration, but you'd have to be a real history buff and pretty much know what was going on and who was who to get anything out of the exhibits.  I especially enjoyed the portraits and bits of royal regalia on offer.  The Palazzo also features something called Apartemente des Princes, which I'd like to visit, but one must reserve a spot on a guided tour.  Just as an aside--I used the toilet in the museum and there was no toilet paper.  This is why I ALWAYS carry a small packet of tissue, a practice every traveler should adopt.

Then I went back to the Piazza Castillo, because the castle holds the Palazzo Madama, which is the civic museum of ancient art.  The museum is huge and comprehensive starting with the Roman foundation of Augusta Taurirum and going on through the Baroque, and boy are the exhibits rich. Lots of paintings are on offer.  I have a taste for Late Medieval Art which was satisfied with paintings, polychrome wooden sculptures and plenty of stone work.  The Renaissance and Baroque are also well represented, and an abundance of decorative art will tempt you to feast your eyes.  I finished my visit--well worn out by this time--with a walk though the Medieval Garden of the Princes, all green and fragrant.  After my exertions this was restful.  I did not see any birds, but boy could I hear them.

Then back down Via Po licking windows all the way and home.

Ciao for now

Non So Buon Giorno

 With my hair newly washed and my body layered up against the chill, I was ready to set out to conquer Torino--when I was hit by a nasty bout of traveler's diarrhea. Ugh.  I'm ok.  I took some meds and I have bottled water to drink.  I think the problem was that I had tea made with microwaved water that probably didn't boil properly. I don't want to give the idea that water in Europe is unsafe; it's just incompatible with my fragile and elderly digestion.  

If there was a day to be laid up, this one wasn't bad.  It was coldish and drizzly. The weather will be better tomorrow.

Ciao for Now

Torino Orientation

 Buon Giorno!

I didn't do much today, but I'm worn out and still jet lagged. I'm figuring out my part of the city.  The River Po is that way, and the Tourist Zone is this way.  I also learned where and how cross the street.  It's not obvious and drivers don't seem to have a lot of respect for crosswalks.  But I did get in some good walking, and I visited a Very Nice Museum.

But first, some history.  You know with me there will Always be some history.  You may be more familiar with Torino under the name of Turin (of Shroud fame). It also has this French name because it was once the capital of the extensive Duchy--later Kingdom--of Savoy.  The kingdom was trans alpine and had both French and Italian speakers.  The specific area that Torino is in is Piemonte or Piedmont, literally the foothills of the Alps.  I can't see them from my windows, but when I was at the airport the mountains were right there and beautifully snowcapped.

Bits of Savoy were whittled a way, but somehow the Kingdom acquired the island of Sardinia, so when I taught the Unification of Italy I called the place Sardinia-Piedmont. Piedmont was an is still an important economic powerhouse of Italy, and back in the day when Austria ruled the various duchies and city states of the peninsula, Sardinia-Piedmont was distinguished by having a native Italian ruler, Vittorio Emmanuele, a liberal constitution, and a wily prime minister named Cavour.  Cavour was determined that Vittorio Emmanuele would become king of a united Italy.  He traded off the remaining French speaking parts of the kingdom (including Nice where Garibaldi was born) to Napoleon III in return for military support against Austria.  Some military success sparked revolt in Austrian-held provinces and Vittorio Emmanuele did become King of Italy after persuading Garibaldi, who had kicked Austrians out of Southern Italy to accept him as king.

The capital was moved temporarily to Florence until Italy could acquire Rome, but Turin/Torino still has a lot of royal remains, which I intend to visit.  Anywhere you go in Italy you'll find a Corso Vittorio Emmanuele and a Via Cavour.  Now you know why.

This morning I strolled down Via Po to get a look at the castle, which I will visit--maybe tomorrow, licking windows along the way,  There are a lot of attractions within walking distance of my home here.  This is good because my fitness program can be described as "Going to Europe and Walking Around a Lot."

Right around the corner from me is the Fondazione Accorsi-Ometto, which is a museum of decorative arts, and they were having a special exhibition starting today of goodies from Venice.  I was there when it opened and decided to do some Tourist Dharma.  Good choice!  The museum is very rich in paintings, porcelain, furniture, jewelry, and even snuff boxes and card cases.  I saw a lot of very beautiful things.  My favorite as always were the exquisitely appointed period rooms from Rococo through the early Nineteenth Century.

Now I will have a nice apero of some Barbera d'Alba and almonds brought from home.  I believe I've earned it.

Ciao for Now

It Can Be Complicated

 Buon Giorno,

It certainly can be complicated, nevertheless, I have arrived in Torino--on time and with my luggage--but it was touch and go. I'm situated on a very large and ornate piazza with a lot of intriguing shops. When I get over my jet lag I think this will be a great city to explore.

The saga began when my ride showed up early.  Now I was mostly ready, but I rushed out with out some finishing touches.  I didn't realize until we got to the airport that I wasn't wearing my glasses.  I am near-sighted, but I refuse to wear contact lenses on a plane.  Now my eye sight has actually improved in my old age (go figure), which is why I didn't notice until I couldn't read the airport signs.  I managed anyway.  I got a pleasant surprise at security.  I didn't have to unpack my carry on, and I didn't have to take off my shoes.  They photographed me instead, so I also didn't have to show my boarding pass and passport three billion times before getting on the plane.

My flight left late, but the flight itself was fine in Premium Economy. I had hardly slept the night before and I only got an hour or two on the plane, so I am tired and jet lagged out of my mind,  What was worse, was that my time to make my connecting flight to Torino was very short, and I had to get through passport control and security.  I knew Lufthansa would take care of me, and whatever happened I would cope, but I was still anxious.  I asked a flight attendant, who checked for me.  Apparently the airline agreed that I was not going to make my connection and rebooked me for a later flight.

So instead of arriving in Torino mid afternoon, I was slated to spend four hours in the airport and then arrive in the early evening.  Well, phooey.  After passport control I went to the service desk for a new boarding pass, and to my surprise the guy, thought I was nuts. "Go. You can make that flight."  So I went.  And it was a long, long way.  First I had to take an elevator down and then there was an endless corridor and then an elevator up and going through duty free--but no security, which was a mercy.  I could never understand why we, who had just gotten off a plane, would have to go through security again.  Frankfurt Airport gets it.

I arrived at the gate and explained my issue.  The nice ladies explained to me that they couldn't get me on that flight because my luggage had been rebooked.  I resigned myself and went into a corner with my lap top to try to change my taxi booking and inform the accommodation of my delay because the building wouldn't be open otherwise.  Then the ladies called me back.  They could get me on the flight.  Probably I wouldn't have my checked bag arrive, but I have supplies in my carry on.  I got on the plane.  Wheee!

And once I was at Torino, my bag magically appeared, and I found my driver with no problem.  There was something so luxurious about having someone meet me and being driven straight to my accommodation.  I don't know how else I could have gotten into town.  There's supposedly a bus, but I'd have to walk (and probably get lost) for twenty minutes.  Unlike other European cities there's no metro or tram connection.

So I'm here.  My accommodations are very nice, and I am prepared to enjoy Torino.  To start with I went to a gourmet food shop and got some Barbera d' Alba to sip.

Ciao for now