Palazzo Reale

 Buon Giorno,

The Palazzo Reale is a project--at least if you are like me and insist on visiting every part open to the public. The place is a monument to Torino's, the Kingdom of Savoy's, and the Kingdom of Sardinia-Piedmont's past power and glory.  It is huge, and as far as I can tell only about two thirds is open to the public.

The Palazzo opens earlier than other museums and is justly popular.  I did not get there right at opening because I was distracted.  When I came out onto Piazzia Vittorio Veneto this morning I was surprised and delighted to find people setting up a market.  I promised myself a visit once my tourist business at the Palazzo was done.

I had wait in line to get in, but that was nothing compared to the snaking line at the entrance when I was came out.  I used my Torino+Piemonte card (In a mere two days, I have gotten half the value of the five day card) and was directed toward the express ticketing, which did us card holders no good as there were women with multiple print outs and phones who seemed to take forever to get their business done.

But the wait was worth it.  Our visit begins with the State Apartments, and I can only compare them in splendor with Versailles.  This is serious Royal Stuff.  Many of the rooms are gigantic. My general advice when visiting these places is always to look up.  Most of the rooms have ceiling frescos or ornately coffered and in-laid ceilings.  The rooms are packed with art treasures of furniture, paintings, sculpture, and ceramics.  It's very, very beautiful in Baroque and Rococo style, but grand enough to be oppressive as one goes through room after elaborately decorated room.  You can also visit the "Chapel of the Shroud," but don't expect to see said Shroud because it's actually elsewhere. The Royal Armory is not to be missed. The collection of armor and arms is spectacular.  They put knights on stuffed battle horses. This is where most of the tourist action is. It's crowded and guided tours can impede one's progress.  I truly enjoyed the view, but it was a lot, and I was relieved to get to quieter, less crowded parts of the Palazzo.

The Palazzo Reale is a complex of galleries, so my next stop was to see the Royal Collection of Paintings, which is pretty impressive.  I spotted a couple of nice Titians, plus some Veronese, and a lot of very nice work from artists I did not know.  And there is plenty spaced over two big floors and very well lit and exhibited.  Along with the paintings you will find portrait busts of the various Dukes of Savory and Kings of Sardinia, etc.

But wait, there's more!  Not everyone shares my taste for Antiquities. so this part of the Palazzo was nearly empty.  Torino boasts the oldest Museum of Antiquities in Europe.  I visited the collection of archeological finds from Torino itself and vicinity, which compared to some places is undistinguished, but some of the items were interesting. There's an Archeological Gallery that is packed full of things the Dukes/Kings bought.  I always appreciate Greek Vases, and the remains of the Etruscans and I found both and a lot of Roman portrait busts--another thing I enjoy seeing.

That accomplished it was time for a stroll in the Royal Gardens.  By this time it had warmed up, and it was lovely walking around appreciating the fountain and the shade cast by the trees.

As it happens I am not as young as I used to be, so I turned down Via Po for home, stopping to get cash at an ATM and attending the market on the Piazza.  I didn't see anything I wanted to buy, but I noted with interest that several booths were selling local honey.  Piedmont does not produce olives or oil, but it's neighbor Liguria does.  I actually have some very nice Ligurian oil I bought at the gourmet shop.  Speaking of the shop, I am having some lasagne with asparagus for dinner along with my rich, red Barbera wine.  AND I have a bike race coming up. 

Ciao for now