Museum Isel Part Ein

Guten Tag!
I zonked out early last night and slept late this morning.  I think I can say officially that I am over the jet lag.
The European Union really does not want people to smoke--not one little puff.  Not even e cigarettes.  It is in the interest of the country to have healthy inhabitants, and also there's the whole socialized medicine bit, and it's also nice to keep costs down and resources unwasted.
I have mentioned previously that fewer people smoke on the street in Berlin.  I think I might have discovered one reason why.  I made another trip to the grocery store this morning.  It was busy, and I was waiting in line, I spotted the tobacco shelf behind the cashier.  Not only does it say in large back letters: "Smoking is Deadly," there are photos of people suffering the effects--lying in hospital beds, kids having asthma attacks.  Yeah.  That would inhibit me, too.
The plan was to visit Museum Isel or Museum Island.  It's not really an island, but there are plenty of museums, and I knew just how to get there because it's next door to the German Historical Museum.  I knew I would not be able to see the whole thing in one go, so I decided to hit the antiquities first.
I especially wanted to see the Altar of Pergamon and the Istar Gate.  Me and every other visitor to Berlin!  The place was packed even though I got there early, and I had to wait in line for twenty minutes for a ticket to the complex.  I was not keen on waiting another two hours to get to see the Altar.  It's open Monday when the other museums are closed, so I'll try then.
But I did get a ticket, and I was right there so I decided to go to the German Art Museum.  I climbed stairs.  A gate barred us from going further.  I went down stair and around the corner.  Nothing.  Finally I found a very discreet sign--yes it was small and hidden--announcing that since the air conditioning was broken the museum was closed until further notice.
Well, phooey, but there are other museums.  I followed the signs for the Bode Museum and once there, began to be satisfied with my outing.
The Bode Collection, housed in a magnificent marble building, is eclectic, but I have a taste for Late Medieval Art and plenty of wonderful works were on offer.  One fascinating bit was the interspersing of African Sculptures among the Western Art.  The displays were chosen because the theme or pose of the African statues were similar to the Western ones. Of note were the polychrome wood carvings, some meant for altar pieces, others for private devotion, and some were large enough to be architectural elements.  Wilhelm von Bode was an expert on Dontatello and two of his works are displayed, the Pazzi Madonna a marble bas relief, and a bronze figurine of David (clothed this time) and Goliath.  Other works possibly by the master or emanating from this workshop or imitators are also displayed.  The museum holds mostly sculptures, and I found the Late Medieval and Renaissance most compelling, but the Roman and Byzantine works are also worth a look.
I went back to the Altes Museum for more antiquities.  This collection, too is housed in an incredible building.  Both museums I saw are domed and all over marble and grand staircases.  They are worth a visit for that alone!  This time Hindu statutes were displayed alongside the Western Art.  This is a great idea, and I found the juxtaposition illuminating.  Do you like red figured and polychrome Greek Vases?  I happen to as well as Archaic, Classical, and Hellenistic Sculpture.  Not everyone is as keen on the Etruscans as I am, but you'll find them there as well, along with a really marvelous exhibit of Roman portraiture.
Both of these are major museums, and there is more to come on Museum Isel, but for now let's stroll back toward Gendarmenmarkt, famed as the loveliest square in Berlin, and in my opinion it earns its title.  Two grand churches dominate the scene--one a Franciscan church (what would Francis have thought of all this grandeur?) and one is called the German Cathedral.  A concert hall in the Neo Classical  style completes the ensemble.  The square got its name from Gens d'Armes, a regiment in the Prussian Army formed from Protestant refugees from France.
The reason I took another trip to the grocery store was that I'd seen some fruit wine on the shelf, and I decided I needed to--uh--do some research into German Culture.  I reasoned that such an item would make a very nice aperitif.  I was right!  I got some made of sour cherries, but it's slightly sweet and very fruity.
Dinner is boring for you, but nice for me--some Italian filled pasta with oil and garlic.

A Trip to Spandau

Guten Tag,
It's Monday, so museums are closed, but Spandau is open, so I took a trip out to the historic Berlin suburb.  Well, the town is considered part of Berlin now, but the Spandauese (Spandonians?) will tell you proudly that their town is older than Berlin.
Regular readers of my blog know of my fondness for the art of the aperitif/aperitivo, which is practiced in various forms further south in Europe.  It is not a German custom, but I could not help but notice as I strolled about the city, that it is catching on here at least during the summer.  There is not a cafe but offers an Aperol Spritz and other aperitifs.  I think it would be rude if I did not join in.
I like sparkling wine, and Germany produces its own, little known version called Sekt.  I got dry or trocken, but it also comes in semi sweet and sweet.  I'm having it with some nuts I brought from home.  It tastes a lot like Prosecco to me, and I find it tasty and refreshing.  You will be able to find it in the United States, but you'll have to hunt because most of it is consumed domestically by thirsty Germans of good taste.
I began the day by attending the grocery store.  The day is overcast, windy, and cool.  I had to wear my sweater.
Spandau was very easy to get to--at least for me, it being on my local U bahn line.  Since we have a longish U bahn ride out, I will tell you the posted rules: No food, No drink, No pets.  I have not heard loud music on the train, but I have seen a couple people eating, and a couple of well behaved dogs having a ride with their people.  Sometimes beggars climb aboard to solicit funds.  I have not seen them the past two days, but I'm sure they are out there.
I emerged from the U bahn and followed the signs to the Zitadelle or castle.  I love a good castle, and this one is in the Renaissance, i.e. post gunpowder, period, and is among the best preserved in Europe.  The fortress is in a star shape with comparatively low walls and jutting bastions for the cannon.  It has a moat.  The interior is mostly a military museum, but some interesting nuggets of history emerge.  The place was remodeled and luxed up to provide a residence for the Electors' widows, but it still served an important military function.  Alas it could not hold out against Napoleon or the Russian incursion.
A Medieval castle with a wall and round tower once sat on the site, but only archeological bits remain.  The existing round tower is called the Julius Turm.  I climbed it--yes all the way to the top via a spiral staircase at first and then a series of stairs and walk ways.  I emerged and enjoyed the panoramic views.
One of the most fascinating parts is what's called the "Archeological Window," which reveals the original foundations of the original fortress.  It was built by the pre Hohenzollern Dynasty, the Ascanians otherwise known as the House of Anhalt.  One of them became Margrave of Brandenburg in the twelfth century.  The family is credited with founding Berlin.  The River Havel flows by the castle, and the site although strategic was water logged.  Stone and wooden piles had to be driven into the soggy ground in order to provide a secure foundation.
Then I strolled over to Spandau's charming and pedestrianized Alt Stadt.  It's very pretty and only somewhat touristy.  I saw lots of real people going about their everyday business.  I also came upon a market!  So I had a pleasant time strolling about and licking a window or two.  On the way home because I still had some gumption and confidence, I got off a stop early, so I could look around.  I did not get lost coming back at all.
Dinner will consist of left over Doner Kabab.  I was right.  The thing was so huge I could not finish it in one go.

Very Fine Art--and a Lot of It!

Guten Tag,
The Gemaldegalerie is a world class art museum, and I had never heard of it until I started researching Berlin.  Keeping in mind that Modern Art is housed elsewhere, apart from Leonardo and Michelangelo, every artist is there.  It is a truly huge and magnificent collection.
But first we have to get there, and that proved a bit of a chore.
I got some solid sleep and was feeling ready for a deep immersion into art.  The U bahn stop was on the same route I'd taken home yesterday--very easy to get to.  I emerged expecting some kind of sign to point the way.  Now as it happens there was, but it was for the museum complex not the art gallery, but I did not realize this until I was coming back.  You want Kulturforum.
I looked around the U bahn and S bahn stations hoping for a map or information desk, but it was Sunday and nothing was open.  I chose a direction at random and started forth.  After a short walk I came upon the Memorial to the Jewish Dead, a stark and moving art installation consisting of gray blocks.  I know it doesn't sound like anything, but it is powerful in person.  I spoke to a security guard.  Unfortunately the site needs them because some idiots don't understand the concept of respect.  She and I pored over my map, and she called for assistance.
The advice was to take a bus.  A bus?  Forsooth!  I was already lost.  I did not need to make it worse, but I thought I'd go find the bus stop, and then perhaps I'd be on the right street and could find the museum.  At the bus stop I came upon a map which encouraged me.  I set off down Potsdammer Strasse.
By that time I was in dire need of a toilet, so I turned aside into the Sony Center, which looked like it might have a public toilet.  I had to pay a euro, but the facilities were nice.
I soon found my target, got my ticket, and the audio guide included in the admission.  Wow!  I was instantly impressed.  Many of the works were acquired by the Kings of Prussia.  Some were bequests from private collectors.  I did not see everything, but I did hit the highlights, and those lights are very high indeed.
The emphasis is on Renaissance and Baroque, but do you like Giotto?  I do. I saw works by Giorgione I didn't know about.  A tondo by Raphael is one of the gems of the collection, and I could make a long list of artists and works.  I do have to mention a version that Botticelli created of his Venus--only her--no shell or background.  It's gorgeous.  The exhibit of Rembrandt and Rubens is distinguished.  I saw two paintings by Vermeer that were new to me.  Just exquisite.  The painting that must not be missed is Caravaggio's Victory of Love.  Caravaggio was not a nice man.  He did not paint nice paintings.
Dinner is doner kabab.  I stopped at a busy hole in the wall on my way home and ordered a big one "mit alles" with everything.  This is a monster.  I'm not sure I'll be able to finish it this evening.
Quit teasing us, Pil.  What's in it?
Gyro meat stuffed into a fluffy pita to begin with.  You can count on that, but otherwise no uniform recipe or ingredients exist.  They originated in Turkey, but are ubiquitous in Europe and especially popular in Germany.  Mine has chopped onion, pickled beet, cabbage, chopped cucumber and tomato plus three kinds of sauce.  I am hungry, but this is sooooo goooood!  I'm having it with Berliner Kindl because I liked it so much the first time.

A Trip to the Historic Center

Guten Tag,
Oof, I'm still jet lagged and my feet ache, but I had another good day out, and I ventured from my part of town in the west of the city to the historic center where I visited the Deutsches Historisches Museum.  I wanted something engrossing but easy to navigate.  The weather was fresh and cool--no rain to my disappointment, but maybe some drops will materialize.
Since it's Saturday after loading up the dishwasher my first trip needed to be down the street to the grocery because most stores are closed on Sunday, and while I don't mind picking up some fast food, I'm not keen on going all the way to the Hauptbahnhof for supplies.
I walked down Kurfurstendamm to the Uhlandstrasse U bahn station for the first leg of my train journey.  I had to change twice more to get to my destination.  Despite its name the U bahn does not run underground the whole way.  I really got a sense of how big a city Berlin is and how complex.
The route I had chosen involved a lot of walking to transfer lines rather like it is in Paris.  I actually figured out a better route coming back that involved only one transfer and dropped me off much closer to home.
A lot of construction blocked the route to the museum and the view, but I discovered that some other things I wanted to see were close by, so now I know where to find them.
The museum is in a handsome Neo Classical building.  It's big and holds a lot of exhibits but has an airy and uncrowded feel to it.  Unlike Story of Berlin, this museum covers the main time line of all of German History and places it in a European and World context.  The only complaint I had is that the lighting was low, and sometimes it was hard to read the English labels.  Occasionally there were no English labels.  The visitor can rent an audio guide.  I did not.
The museum emphasizes kings and battles although other topics emerge occasionally.  A lot of portraits are displayed, and it does help if one knows who these folks are to begin with as (ahem) I do.  A section on Reformation and Counter Reformation is not all that enlightening, but I enjoyed looking at the weapons, armor, and artifacts from the various periods.
At one point the visitor may touch some chain mail, and a sign invites one to try and lift it.  I could but it is heavy!  When worn the weight would be distributed around the body, but it would still take strength and energy to bear such a thing--especially in battle.
One thing I really enjoyed was the costume exhibits.  I rather took to two muslin dresses in the Empire style, and I am convinced they would fit me nicely.  I also liked the few period rooms they had set up.
Of course things take a dark turn when the visitor reaches the Twentieth Century.  The collection of political and propaganda posters was truly harrowing.  Germany deserves credit for not white washing the uglier aspects of its history.   Some people in the United States do not show the same candor and courage about our nation's past.
I ended up walking a lot and got tired by the end of my visit, so I came home and am treating myself to a cup of tea and a slice of toast thickly spread with butter.  I'll describe dinner and drink later.
Ok. It's later.  The beer of the day is Erdinger Weissbier.  It's brewed from wheat and is markedly less hoppy.  I think it tastes smooth and rich.  I've made a sandwich out of German ham and cheese.   Now this is decidedly unorthodox as Germans rightly believe each ingredient is good enough on its own.  But I asked, won't both be twice as good--and with beer, too.  The cheese is mild and creamy, and the ham fragrant and slightly smokey.  Shall we have a bite?
Of course, I am hungry, but this tastes soooo good.  I suppose I should have tried them separately first, but I'm going for the combo!

Schloss Charlottenburg

Guten Tag!
The day turned blustery when I was making my way home this afternoon, and the sky looks like it wants to rain.  Now that I'm home, I hope it does.  The weather changed, and we enjoyed lovely cooler air.
I had a great day out, and I think I have found my place in Berlin. When I visited Vienna and Munich, I loved Schoenbrunn and Nymphenburg.  Lovely Schloss Charlottenburg reminded me of those beautiful places, and the extensive park is full of riverside, lakeside, and woodland walks.  Since I am at the beginning of my trip and still jet lagged, I barely scratched the surface of the grounds, but I can return again and again.
Since I settled in my apartment, I could begin the day with a proper breakfast of dark rye bread and hummus.  Then I had an easy walk to the U bahn at Adenauer Platz and a short ride to Richard Wagner Platz, then about a seven minute walk to the palace, which was built originally for Sophy-Charlotte, the wife of the Elector of Brandenburg Friedrich III.  It's called Schloss or castle, but it is a Rococo gem, and I would consider it a must see in Berlin.
An excellent audio guide is included in the admission.  The visitor begins in the magnificent state rooms all over mirrors and gilt. Unfortunately because the period is Rococo, rooms are infested with putti of the worst description.  They are everywhere!
In addition to being messed about by Austrian and Russian invaders and Napoleon, the palace was heavily damaged in the Allied bombing of Berlin in 1943, so much of what one sees is reconstructed. Some of the original furnishing did survive and other artifacts were transferred from other palaces.  The royal family's art collection hangs on the wall along with some amazing tapestries.  Some rooms are very grand and some more intimate, and I enjoyed the period pieces and the explanation of the function of each room. Because it was a week day and I got there early, I had these rooms mostly to myself.  The palace will be crowded on summer afternoons and weekends, so plan accordingly.
Friedrich the Great of Prussia favored French Culture and bought a lot of French Art.  I was surprised to see several works by Watteau including his famous Return from Cythera.  I had no idea it was in Berlin.  Alas, even this beautiful painting features putti.
I like looking a fine porcelain, and a lot of exquisite services are on offer along with some of the Prussian Crown Jewels.  Don't miss Queen Louisa's diamond earrings--glittering and beautiful but so large, I'm not sure I could hold up my head if I wore them.
I also visited the Neuer Pavilion for an exhibition of Romantic Era German Painters.  I didn't care for most of them, but I liked the evocative works of Caspar David Friedrich.
Then for I went for a stroll along the River Spree, and wandered a bit along the paths beneath the trees.  I turned to go through the flower garden and its sprouting fountain.  Ahhhh.  This is why I come to Europe!
Here are some other reasons to like Berlin.  Fewer people smoke on the street.  Such a good thing! There are some free public toilets called City Toilets, and they are automated like the ones in Paris.  I have not needed one, but it's nice to know they exist.
Hey Pil, I bet all that walking worked up an appetite.
Dinner is not that exciting, I'm having capetellini which is a form of Italian pasta--Italian food being the universal culinary language of Western Civilization although Asian food has become very popular in the past ten years, and Berlin has its share.
Drink?
Let's try a local brew called Berliner Kindl. Will that satisfy you?
For the moment.
Apparently one can tour the brewery, but it's not on my list of things to do.  However, I do like this a lot.  It's better than what I had yesterday, or maybe I just prefer the style.  But I'm confused because the brew seems to be a Helles Bock.  It's less hoppy and tastes like sweet wheat, so I guess it's a light bock.  By the way I know nothing about beer.  In the spirit of full disclosure I confess I had to google the terms.  And I am just going to say no to the summer time trend here of mixing beer with American soft drinks.  Gurgh!

Settled in Nicely

Guten Tag!
Let me sink into another sip of Warsteiner.  It's turned hot and sultry, and cool beer is very refreshing.
I like Berlin!  I didn't do much today due to jet lag, but I enjoyed getting to know my part of the city a little.  My new digs are a little off Kurfurstendamm with a few hotels around, but mostly it's a real people neighborhood and not touristdorf.
Given my experience yesterday, I viewed the directions from Sofitel to Citadines with some skepticism--and rightly so as it turned out.  For example, if you want me to really turn right, don't instruct me to turn left.  The directions were like a mirror image of what I really needed--and yet not consistently so, but I was mentally prepared this time.  Of course, I did manage to lose my sweater and had to double back fortunately not too far before I found it.
My route took me down Kurfurstendamm, the main shopping street in Berlin replete with handsome buildings (really the whole city has them) and one luxury brand after another.  It's a broad street lined with chestnut trees casting a welcome shade.  Apparently Bismarck meant the street to be Berlin's answer to the Champs Elysees.
My room was not ready, but I anticipated that.  I dropped my bags and went off to The Story of Berlin, a museum that recounts the history of the city.  Unlike most major European cities, Berlin is neither a Roman or ecclesiastical foundation.  It's fortunately seated on an easy crossing point of the River Spree and thus attracted merchants who formed a settlement, but it's not known exactly when.  The city is first mentioned in records in the thirteenth century.  The exhibits are multi media although I wished for more artifacts, especially in the earlier periods.
The presentation grows stronger in the more modern period with the Industrial Revolution, Rise of Prussia, and the two World Wars.  The establishment of National Socialism is particularly well done and very chilling. The Cold War gets a solid look in as well, with a good explanation of the division of Germany and Berlin itself and the reunification.
I'm glad you had a nice time, Pil, and I was glad to hear about the beer, but what's for dinner?  Eh?
After I got home from the museum and moved into my apartment, even though I was footsore and wilted, I walked down to the grocery store.
Now, you're talking!
Well, I was before, too, but it was about history, so you didn't care.  I got some breakfast supplies consisting of humus and bread, and treated myself to butter and aioli as well olive oil.  Let us sample some of the other items.
I rarely drink beer at home, and the occasion is generally an offer of some fancy craft beer from knowledgeable friends, but I do like German beer.  Brewers may grumble, but I think the strict purity rules create a superior product.  I like helles and weissbier.  What I'm drinking now is a rather hoppy Pilsner.  I drank a lot of water first though.  Some people forget to hydrate on trips. They end up sorry.
Maultaschen is a German noodle resembling ravioli and is cooked the same way.  The story goes that naughty monks wished to hide their consumption of meat during fast days by hiding it in dough.  I doubt the Almighty was fooled, but otherwise this was a good idea.  I dress mine in olive oil and garlic powder, but if I could find some green sauce I'd use that.  Truth to tell these yummy noodle affairs would be good with anything.
They are larger than ravioli, and mine are stuffed with pork and beef.  So good!  But for someone my age not something I'm having every day.

Berlin

Guten Abend!
Kind friends who take an interest in my travels asked me for many months what my next destination was.  I didn't know.  I was torn between returning to somewhere I'd been to and loved and trying out a new place.  I didn't know much about Berlin beyond the Wall and the club scene, and I had no interest whatsoever in the latter, but on a sudden whim I decided to look into the city, and I found that it would make a worthwhile destination.
Now since I'm here and blogging you know this story has a happy ending, but it was rather an ordeal to get here.  The flight to London was smooth and in fact we left early and arrived a whole hour early.  I sat around terminal 5 and picked up some food from Pret a Manager, and that turned out to be a good decision.  The flight from London to Berlin was likewise smooth.
We had passport control just for our flight and our own baggage machine.  I could see the plane out the window, and they were doing a lot of stuff, but what they weren't doing was unloading the luggage.  We waited and waited.  After about twenty minutes (and this was by no means a large plane) the machine started up and produced--three suitcases.  It chugged along empty for a while,  and then stopped.  We waited and waited some more.  Then ten minutes later the lights began to flash, but the conveyer belt didn't move.  At length the bags began to appear.  I retrieved mine and set off for the bus station.
I hate busses!  But this time I don't blame the bus, but google maps for giving me bogus information!  I'd screwed up my reservation at the Citadines, so for my first night, I booked in a Sofitel.  Easy peasy.  Just take the bus to the designated stop and walk two minutes.  But we got to the end of the line without my stop being stopped at!  I asked the driver but he couldn't help.  Fine.  I remembered an alternate route on the Ubahn or subway.  When I got to the stop I saw a sign for the street I wanted.
Only I couldn't find the street or the Sofitel.  It was getting dark and I wandered around for about an hour and a half.  Fortunately European cities are safe, and I did not feel anxious beyond feeling completely lost. I went to another hotel and asked and got good but incomplete directions, and then I asked the doorman of a fancy hotel, and he gave me the scoop.
I was worn out and feeling grimy, but the young man at the reception at Sofitel was so charming I felt better instantly, and he made me even happier by mentioning the upgrade I got.  It's a nice room with a lovely view, so I am happy to be here.
I ate half my sandwich for "dinner" and can have the rest for breakfast.  I have tea making facilities in my room, and Hermes (ooh la la!) toiletries in the bathroom, where I am about to repair to shower.
Tomorrow the touristing begins!