Guten Tag!
I zonked out early last night and slept late this morning. I think I can say officially that I am over the jet lag.
The European Union really does not want people to smoke--not one little puff. Not even e cigarettes. It is in the interest of the country to have healthy inhabitants, and also there's the whole socialized medicine bit, and it's also nice to keep costs down and resources unwasted.
I have mentioned previously that fewer people smoke on the street in Berlin. I think I might have discovered one reason why. I made another trip to the grocery store this morning. It was busy, and I was waiting in line, I spotted the tobacco shelf behind the cashier. Not only does it say in large back letters: "Smoking is Deadly," there are photos of people suffering the effects--lying in hospital beds, kids having asthma attacks. Yeah. That would inhibit me, too.
The plan was to visit Museum Isel or Museum Island. It's not really an island, but there are plenty of museums, and I knew just how to get there because it's next door to the German Historical Museum. I knew I would not be able to see the whole thing in one go, so I decided to hit the antiquities first.
I especially wanted to see the Altar of Pergamon and the Istar Gate. Me and every other visitor to Berlin! The place was packed even though I got there early, and I had to wait in line for twenty minutes for a ticket to the complex. I was not keen on waiting another two hours to get to see the Altar. It's open Monday when the other museums are closed, so I'll try then.
But I did get a ticket, and I was right there so I decided to go to the German Art Museum. I climbed stairs. A gate barred us from going further. I went down stair and around the corner. Nothing. Finally I found a very discreet sign--yes it was small and hidden--announcing that since the air conditioning was broken the museum was closed until further notice.
Well, phooey, but there are other museums. I followed the signs for the Bode Museum and once there, began to be satisfied with my outing.
The Bode Collection, housed in a magnificent marble building, is eclectic, but I have a taste for Late Medieval Art and plenty of wonderful works were on offer. One fascinating bit was the interspersing of African Sculptures among the Western Art. The displays were chosen because the theme or pose of the African statues were similar to the Western ones. Of note were the polychrome wood carvings, some meant for altar pieces, others for private devotion, and some were large enough to be architectural elements. Wilhelm von Bode was an expert on Dontatello and two of his works are displayed, the Pazzi Madonna a marble bas relief, and a bronze figurine of David (clothed this time) and Goliath. Other works possibly by the master or emanating from this workshop or imitators are also displayed. The museum holds mostly sculptures, and I found the Late Medieval and Renaissance most compelling, but the Roman and Byzantine works are also worth a look.
I went back to the Altes Museum for more antiquities. This collection, too is housed in an incredible building. Both museums I saw are domed and all over marble and grand staircases. They are worth a visit for that alone! This time Hindu statutes were displayed alongside the Western Art. This is a great idea, and I found the juxtaposition illuminating. Do you like red figured and polychrome Greek Vases? I happen to as well as Archaic, Classical, and Hellenistic Sculpture. Not everyone is as keen on the Etruscans as I am, but you'll find them there as well, along with a really marvelous exhibit of Roman portraiture.
Both of these are major museums, and there is more to come on Museum Isel, but for now let's stroll back toward Gendarmenmarkt, famed as the loveliest square in Berlin, and in my opinion it earns its title. Two grand churches dominate the scene--one a Franciscan church (what would Francis have thought of all this grandeur?) and one is called the German Cathedral. A concert hall in the Neo Classical style completes the ensemble. The square got its name from Gens d'Armes, a regiment in the Prussian Army formed from Protestant refugees from France.
The reason I took another trip to the grocery store was that I'd seen some fruit wine on the shelf, and I decided I needed to--uh--do some research into German Culture. I reasoned that such an item would make a very nice aperitif. I was right! I got some made of sour cherries, but it's slightly sweet and very fruity.
Dinner is boring for you, but nice for me--some Italian filled pasta with oil and garlic.
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