Three Palazzos

Ciao!
I'm finally getting the hang of Rome. I successfully rode a bus today!  Moreover I stride--not quite fearlessly, but with the appearance of confidence onto the crosswalk in the face of on coming traffic.
It works like zebra crossings in London.  Standing on the curb looking hopeful accomplishes nothing; the pedestrian must step into the street.
I wanted to book a tour for the Palazzo Farnese, but even though I'm here for another two weeks, they were full.  Fortunately the proprietor suggested another palazzo that didn't need a reservation.
So I walked all the way down Via Corso licking windows as I went until I spotted my target.
The Doria-Pamphilj Family still lives in the palace when they are in Rome and the current head of the family Jonathan, who sounds English narrates the audio guide.  Pamphilj is the Roman branch, the one who produced Pope Innocent X.  He's the grim looking guy in that Velasquez portrait, which you can say hi to when you visit.  The palazzo was a gift to his nephew, and it is spectacular!  Doria came when the Pamphiljs allied with the leading Genoese Family through marriage.  The ceiling frescos and art collection (a couple of early Caravaggios for example) are first rate.  I'd put this on a must see for a visitor to Rome.
Next I wound my way through a maze of streets and past the Pantheon again to get to Piazza Navona.  It's large and oblong.  We can pause to admire Bernini's Fountain of the Four Rivers before making our way to Palazzo Braschi, which is a sort of History of Rome museum.  I was also keen on the special exhibit of Canalettos.  I refuse to apologize for appreciating his paintings.  After that the rest of the collection was a bit of a let down, but the building is fabulous and well worth seeing.
I promised three palazzos, and I am going to deliver!  Just off Piazza Navona is the Palazzo Altemps in a wonderful building dating from the 1400s which holds some of the National Museums' antiquities. There are some superb statues in amazingly excellent condition although clearly some have been repaired and restored but not all.  The exhibits also featured some modern installations based on classical themes and motifs.  Some of these were very clever.
Well, I walked out, but by this time I was also worn out and didn't want to walk back.  Fortunately there are tourist information huts in many parts of the city and there was one across the street from the Altemps.  I knew I needed a bus, but I wasn't going to get on one without advice.
Having received the advice I strolled down to Largo di Argentina and found the correct stop going in the right direction.  I need to learn how to use the busses to see what I want to see.  I got on a very very crowded bus where people kept getting on but didn't get off until we nearly reached Termini.
At Termini I got off, strolled around a  bit--Termini is rather like a Hauptbahnhof.  There's a shopping center. Then I got the metro home.
My aperitivo is Procecco and a crostini with Bresaola, a kind of cured beef I had and really liked in Milan.  It comes from the Swiss border.  It's not like jerky at all. The taste and texture is more like prosciutto but it is different and very yummy on a crostini.
Dinner will be ravioli as I have some left over, and I will dress it with garlic, plenty of olive oil and some parmesan.  The wine is Est Est Est!  I have not ever seen it in the United States, but if you come across it try it.  There's a cute story involved with the name.  A traveling bishop who liked his wine sent a servant ahead to scout the offerings.  If he thought the wine was worthy of the episcopal palate the servant would write the word "Est" (it is) on the door of the taverna.  Coming to Montefiascone the servant found a wine so sublime he wrote "Est! Est!! Est!!!" on the door.  This tale is of dubious historicity.

The Vatican Museums

Ciao!
Europeans frequently pull their vehicles up onto sidewalks, and I encounter this every day on my walk to and from the metro.  I either have to cross the street or walk in it.  This afternoon, I had just stepped into the street when I met an older woman who just done the same.  She spoke to me, and I was about to go into my "Sono tourista" act when I realized I understood what she said, so I laughed and agreed.  She said something like, "We have to walk in the street because the trucks take up the sidewalk."  Expression and gesture contributed to my understanding.
I got a good night's sleep--finally--but I am still shattered.  The Vatican Museums were an intense experience.  I am glad I waited because I don't think I could have done all of them the day after I arrived.  I booked a fairly early time thinking that it would be less crowded.  I was mistaken.
You simply cannot be spontaneous about visiting the Vatican. You Must Book Ahead. (And do it before you leave or have your hotel reception do it. Avoid the touts because you'll pay three times the price). The line for the poor saps who fail to do this is always insane.  It's like the line for Anne Frank's House in Amsterdam.  It goes on forever.  You can take guided tours, but I would advise getting an audioguide instead because you have more control over what you see and when. You might not want to visit that Etruscan Museum I was so keen on.  I also want to say that the Vatican Museums are a true bargain even with the advance booking fee.  You get admission to ALL of them, and each separately could command an entry fee of at least twelve euros.
I did not have to wait at all.  I went through security and traded my voucher for a ticket, and I was launched.  I first when into the Pinotecca, which is the museum for paintings.  After the crowds at the entrance I was glad to be in a quieter place.  The other visitors rushed through it so I got to examine works at my leisure.  I had Raphael's Transfiguration and his other works all to myself!  Not to mention other distinguished works by great artists, but the truth is I came to Rome for Raphael.
The buildings themselves are beautiful and are packed to the brim with antiquities and other art treasures. Inevitably I got mixed in with a bunch of tour groups.  I heard complaints that the guide was inaudible or incomprehensible.  Most people were paying no attention to the guide anyway. I don't think the visitors knew what they were looking at.  They had their phones out and were taking photos of everything they came across.
Of course the Big Thing everyone comes to see is the Sistine Chapel, and it was wonderful to see it in person even in the midst of the crowd.  I think I got a good look at the ceiling and the Last Judgment.
I also loved the frescos by Raphael in the papal apartments.  The School of Athens is one of my favorite paintings, so I was delighted to see it up close.
I also made sure I saw the Apollo Belvedre and Laoccon, but the Vatican Collection is so rich, it's overwhelming even for me.  After nearly three hours I was arted out and tired from walking and climbing up and down all those stairs.  I walked through the Piazza and took some photos and went off to Castel Saint' Angelo.
It's on the Tiber and looks a big like a coil.  Hadrian built it for his tomb, but it looked so fortress-like the popes took it over as a refuge in their many times of trouble.  There's a military museum inside but I wasn't interested.  I just liked walking around especially since the barrel vaulted ramp was cool and dark.
Then I strolled through the city to the metro stop Lepanto and came home a bit early all stiff and tired.  I believe I have earned an aperitivo.  I'm having some tuna and olives with Prosecco.
Let's talk about olive oil--the extra virgin kind.  I happen to love it, and fortunately where I live I can find some pretty good stuff.  But in my Italian grocery store, I looked for DOP oil or bottles with harvest dates and other indications of quality, and did not find any.  Still I think I got a nice bottle.  It's organic, and when I tasted the oil, I got the catch in the back of my throat that indicates the presence of those much desired polyphenols.  So I have no hesitation in drizzling or dousing my food.  Today I am having a simple, classic dish of capellelini laced liberally with garlic, oil, and a bit of salt. It's one of my favorite ways to have pasta, and it is traditional in Rome.

Ancient Rome Ground Zero: The Forum and the Palatine

Ciao!
My aperitivo includes tuna crostini.  I felt I needed some extra protein. I certainly burned calories today as I walked constantly up and down hill.  I have done three out of the Seven Hills:  Capitoline, Palatine, and Esquiline.
Monday in Rome can be problematical.  Almost all museums are closed.  An exception is the Vatican Museums, which close for obvious reasons on Sunday instead.  Most tourists go there.  The other choice is the heart of the Ancient City, and that's where I went today.  Rain was in the forecast, but the day was fine and very warm, so it was good climbing around weather.
I just said no to the Flavian Amphitheatre and made my way to the Forum entrance. The Forum and Palatine Hill are in fact one huge and fascinating site.  Mind, you have to like ruins to appreciate it all.  I happen to, and the older the better in my opinion.  If you like there are guided tours or you can rent an audio guide. The Forum was Rome's administrative, religious, and social center.  The Palatine Hill was the posh neighborhood full of patricians and royalty.  Our word palace comes from it.
In fact the Romans built to last, and the reason why these once magnificent buildings are in bad shape is that human beings--er--repurposed--the material from which they were made to construct other things.  "Ooh, look!  Marble. Let's take some home with us."  That sort of thing.
I thought it was going to be crowded, but the site is so big I did not mind the other people.  I also have to say that the archeological park is beautiful.  Italy in the spring is lush and green, and there is plenty of foliage, plus olive groves and blossoming trees to see when you tire of stone.  The views from the Palatine are spectacular.  I was disappointed that the on-site museum was closed though.  It was a good way to spend the morning.  I got history, fresh air, and exercise.
I went back one metro stop because I discovered that two must-see churches were nearby.  Well, I got to see one of them anyway.  Santa Maria Maggiore (the large church dedicated to the Virgin) dates to the mid Fourth Century making it one of the oldest churches in Rome. It's a basilica.  I didn't have much trouble finding it although I had to climb Esquiline Hill, and to get inside I had to go through some major security.  The exterior has been messed about with to a large extent with a lot of Baroque accretions. Never mind that.  We're here for the nave.  The church is gorgeous!  It glitters with mosaics and is replete with marble, gilt, and paintings.  No wonder Gian Lorenzo Bernini chose to be buried here.  He rests in Exuberance.
My next stop was St. Pietro in Vincoli because that's where Michelangelo's Moses is.  Wow, Rome has a lot of churches.  I saw at least four that weren't St. Pietro. I wandered a long time, but I finally found it after climbing a gazillion stairs.  It was closed.  Yeah, but I know where it is now, so I can return.
Before we get to dinner, let's review escalator etiquette, shall we?  Stand on the right, people.  Unless you intend to climb.  For reasons that escape my understanding some people need to rush so they use the escalator more or less as a stairway.   Escalator etiquette is especially important if you ever visit London as some daring souls hurl themselves down the steep moving stairs in a manner I regard as near suicidal.  You do not want to be in their way.  Rome isn't that bad, but come on, be polite.
You said the word dinner, Pil.  What's it to be?  More pasta?
I'll branch out eventually, but yes, ravioli is on the menu.  I went to the grocery store this morning.  I am sticking with the brand of Prosecco because it's cheap, and I like it a lot, but I am trying different wines from this area. If you are in Italy trying a food product look for or ask about DOP.  It's a guarantee that the product is made traditionally and meets certain standards of quality.  It does not necessarily, but may, mean expensive. I won't buy wine that does not have this designation, but I am notorious for getting cheap wine. This evening's tipple is from Orvieto.  Mmm, and very nice it is, too.
Ravioli comes doused in garlic and olive oil with a generous sprinkle of parmesan.  So Good!

Fun Times Around Piazza Venezia

Ciao!
I was called "bella" a couple of times today only it was by touts looking to sell me some overpriced tickets.  Apparently this is how they attract gullible old ladies.  I was not taken in.
I am still jet lagged mostly in the sense that my sleep cycle is still out of wack, but I am more functional each day.  I had a good big day today.  And I did not get lost once!  Although I have to confess I am terrified each time I have to cross the street with just a crosswalk and no traffic light.  The cars don't want to hit pedestrians, but they don't exactly stop for us either.
I booked my tickets for the Vatican Museums for next Tuesday with the help of the nice young man in Reception, who also told me how to get to today's destination and advised me to my relief to avoid busses today.
I had to change Metro lines at Termini Station.  I almost got on the wrong train but caught myself in time, so I had a quick trip out to the Colosseo stop where I popped out right in the face of the world-renowned Flavian Amphitheatre.  It was a zoo featuring tourist hordes, ticket touts, immigrants trying to sell selfie sticks, street entertainers, guys in legionary outfits.  Fortunately I could pass it all by at least I could today.
My target was Piazza Venezia where I lighted upon the Palazzo Venezia, a Renaissance gem constructed by a cardinal from where else--Venice--who later became a pope.  The building and gardens are fabulous.  The art within is ok, but my visit was enlivened by the attentions of some eager young docents.  They were charmingly forward in wanting to enrich my visit as much as possible, so naturally I encouraged them with questions and conversation.  Delightful.  My guess is that these are student volunteers who are training to work in museums.
I got directions to my next target, which has been long desired.  The Pantheon!  It was an easy walk.  There's a big old long line to get in, but it moves very fast and the site is free.  I was mostly there to pay my respects to Raphael who is buried there along with King Victor Emmanuel II, but I admired the marble facing and the amazing dome.  The oculus is much larger than I thought it was.  Of course, the place was packed.  There are a lot of snack bars, etc. around there but also a lot of beggars.
Then I went back to climb the Capitoline Hill to the Piazza Campidoglio a beautiful space designed by Michelangelo.  Two museums face each other across the square featuring a copy of the equestrian portrait of Emperor Marcus Aurelius.  The real one is inside one of the museums so don't bother with the fake.  Ok.  I said two museums, but they really are one connected by an underground passage.  The reason to come here is the antiquities.  There's Mama Capitoline Wolf (just ignore the kids) the Colossal Constantine, and the Dying Gaul. There are other cool things as well, so it's worth making the climb.
As I write I am enjoying my Prosecco and aperitivo snack, which is a crostini with prosciutto.  I have having a small snack because I intend to pig out on--er--have the Cultural Experience of Pasta Cacio e pepe, which is a classic Roman recipe that I can get to work once in a while.  There are RULES about pasta, and if the Italians knew what I was up to I'd probably be arrested.  You are supposed to salt the water.  I can't be bothered.  I use too small a pan because I'm a Southern Californian and refuse to waste water.  I use enough water because the pasta can move around, but no Italian would be satisfied. [And I found out that Kenji Lopez-Alt agrees with this.  So There!] I also cook my pasta a little past al dente.  I don't like mushy pasta--bleck! but I want it cooked through.  I also don't make Cacio e Pepe correctly because I add a dash of garlic powder and some olive oil.  I also use capellini because I get hungry and it cooks faster than the thicker strands of pasta that are more authentic.  The point of Italian Cuisine is simple dishes made sublime with the best ingredients.  These are easily obtained in Italy.  Elsewhere?  Maybe.
So the dish is good even if your cheese clumps as mine does all too often.

Some Fragments of Ancient Rome

Ciao!
I am sure that young man in front of the Termini Station had a truly excellent reason for dressing up in a carrot suit.  At any rate he was smoking up a storm and talking loudly on his cell phone.  All Italians, it seems, talk loudly on their cell phones--just like everyone else.
And here's another thing.  It was quite warm today.  I and other tourists were walking around in thin, short sleeved T shirts.  Our hosts wore thick, padded jackets and scarves wound around their necks. I have observed this before in other parts of Italy, so it isn't just Romans.  I am at a loss to account for this phenomenon.
What's this have to do with Ancient Rome, Pil?
Not a thing.  Also Italians kept asking me for directions.  Sometimes I understood the question and could point or say something in simple English that got the job done.  Other times I just had to cop to being a tourist.
Is there food involved in Ancient Rome?
Your questions are interrupting my Aperitivo!
I am still not over the jet lag, but I can function, so I went to two big museums today and wallowed in Antiquity.  First off I had some errands.  Most stores close up tight in Rome on Sunday, so I had to lay in supplies.
Aperitivo supplies?
And breakfast and dinner, too.  I also had to get a new transportation pass. Then off to the Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo alle Terme, which houses an extensive and excellent collection of Roman sculpture, mosaics (love them!) and frescos as well as other artifacts.  All exhibits are labeled and explained in English--not that I needed that ahem.  Highlights include the vivid Hellenistic bronze of the Boxer and the wonderful Second Style or wall filling fresco of Livia's Garden.  It is just stunningly gorgeous, and I got to have the room all to myself.  I also enjoyed the fabulous mosaics.  But it's a big museum crammed with stuff.  I wanted to see everything; you may not.
Then I crossed the street to the Therme de Diocletian.  This particular emperor was not Italian and was too smart to live in Rome in the late Third Century, but he still built the largest bathhouse complex in the city.  As the place was repurposed as a Christian monastery, it's still in remarkable condition and is worth visiting for the building alone.  But as it happens the exhibits within are fascinating. The museum is dedicated to illuminating the everyday life of Ancient Romans, and if you are interested in their religious practices, or writing utensils, or jewelry, then this is the place for you.  I had an interesting experience walking out into a large cloister--as I mentioned the place became a monastery--and I suddenly felt uplifted. I decided that the feeling arose from the harmonious design and lovely proportions of the area.
Well, duh, Pil. It was designed by Michaelangelo.
Oh, so you saw the same sign I did?
Yeah. Right. Aperitivo!
I am having some nicely chilled Prosecco and some olives.  I only did two museums, but I walked a lot!  I have my crostini, too, spread with some ricotta with slices of prosciutto crudo laid upon it.  Mmm. So nice.  I avoid cured meat at home, but it made traditionally in Europe, and I do like it and figure it won't hurt me.
And what's for dinner?
I have some left over gnocchi and some left over pesto.  That sounds tasty, and a lot of Italian food is easy to make.  I got some local Lazio (Ancient Latium the province where Rome is located.) white wine Denominazione di Origine Controlata, so even the cheapo stuff is going to be good.  To cook gnocchi essentially one boils water then dumps in the gnocchi and then waits until the little dumplings rise to the surface.  Spoon them out into a bowl and dress them as you like.  I'll add extra Parmesan to mine.

Getting to Know the Eternal City

Ciao!
Let's start with my animal friends.  The place I live is very pretty and the rooms are set around a courtyard with a fountain--in the fountain live turtles!  Nice, eh?  On one side of road to and from the metro is a lush green hillside, which was today occupied by--well are they sheep or goats?  I asked, but I don't think the creatures speak English.  They were all shades of brown from beige to deep dark, which made me suspect the goatiness even though they looked like sheep.
I had a mixed day with some successes and some frustrations.  The major frustration is that the guidebook and the website misled me about the time of the English tour of Villa Medici, and a tour is the only way to visit.
I set out for the Piazza di Spagna because of the aforesaid Villa Medici, and also I knew it was a major tourist zone, so I hoped to find an atm of my bank's Italian partner in order to skip the pesky transaction fees.  I strolled down Via Condotti, the most elegant shopping street in Rome. I saw some very well dressed people, but most folks looked like me, and there were lots of tourists, especially on the Spanish Steps.  But seriously, amici, do we Really Need five different Chanel boutiques?  And the rest of the luxury brands had multiples, too.
From there I made my way down to Piazza del Populo where I strolled around and visited the church of Sta. Maria del Populo. Via Corso looked like a fun street and one likely to have atms, so I went down it.  I was about to give up when I spotted my bank! Whee! Until I couldn't get the wretched atm to work.  It recognized the foreign card and gave me instructions in English, but one of the instructions said push the "confirma" button, and there was so such thing.  At the atm next to mine was a nice looking older woman, so I asked her for help.  She spoke a little English, too, and carefully walked me through the steps.  It turns out that there is no confirma button, and I needed to push another one altogether.  I got my cash.  I find people are willing to help out foreigners who are humble and show no attitude.
I climbed the steep Pincian Hill (One of Seven).  Huff puff, and then I walked through the lovely park atop it.  I enjoyed some spectacular views of Rome. By the way I'm taking lots of photos, but my camera won't talk to my phone, so you'll have to wait.
It was after this that I suffered my disappointment at the Villa Medici.  What to do?  I decided to go to the main train station where the bus station also sits.  There was a sign that said: "If you want to go to these destinations, take this bus."  I believed it and got on a bus.  It turned out the way my bus rides usually do. Sigh.
But I did get to see some of the city, and we passed some cool sights--just not the one I wanted.  Realizing this I got off on my side of the Tiber.  Now what?  I still wanted to see things.
Then I spotted it.  A sign for something I Really Wanted to See. The Villa Farnesina belonged to banker-to-the-popes Augustino Chigi (pronounced Kigi), who was also pals with Raphael.  He commissioned Raphael to decorate his Tiber-side palazzo, and the results are spectacular. The most famous is the Galatea fresco, but the whole building is amazing and simply screams Renaissance.  I especially love Galatea because she is beautiful, has muscles, and her hair is brown.  Brown hair on a beauty is so rare in art.  I take this personally.
So I was happy until I finished the visit and realized I was in the middle of nowhere with no transportation.  I walked back to look for a metro stop.  I fetched up at the Vatican, and I knew that a stop on my line served it.  The place was packed, and at first I did not recognize St. Peter's Piazza because it looks completely different from the ground view, and I have only seen aerial shots.  It was still a long, long walk to the metro.
Since it's a warm evening we are having aperiticena--in other words an aperitivo with extra food for dinner.  Although beloved by tourists and students, this development is frowned upon by traditionalists who hold that it degrades the art of the aperitif and violates the sacredness of the evening meal.  On my plate are olives, nuts, and crostini spread with ricotta dressed with parmesan, garlic, and olive oil, all washed down with cool white wine.  It suits me.

A Change of Plan

Ciao!
It started to sprinkle as I made my way home, but I always carry an umbrella, so I was good, and after all I did get out and do some Tourist Dharma.
That was by no means certain.  After a few hours of sleep I woke up because my left ankle ached.  I don't know why.  I must have done something objectionable yesterday.  It got worse.  I could walk, but it was painful.  Oh no, I thought.  I won't be able to go anywhere--well definitely not the Vatican Museums, which is standing in line and then a three hour trek.  After about four hours of this, things began to improve.  I am not 100%, but that's mostly jet lag, and I walked around just fine.
Italians eat sugar for breakfast.  This morning so did I because in my jet lagged state yesterday, I did not realize I bought sweet, sugar-coated cornettos (Those are the Italian version of croissants.).  Yuk!  I hate sweet things for breakfast.  I had some nice stracchinio, a sort of creme cheese, to put on it, but I was not pleased.  The tea was good though.  I picked up some Fortnum and Mason Breakfast Blend at Heathrow.  I corrected the situation with a trip to the grocery store, and starting tomorrow I will breakfast in a more wholesome way.
I did not feel up to the Vatican, but feeling pretty reasonable, I made my way to the metro and got a forty-eight hour pass.  My first target was Palazzo Barberini some of which was decorated by Bernini and Borromini, so I was trading the Renaissance for the Baroque.  The building is worth visiting for itself.  Don't forget to look up and admire the lovely ceiling frescos, but there are some nice paintings, too, and even a few gems by Raphael and Caravaggio.
After that I walked up the street to San Carlo di Quatre Fontane designed by Borromini.  It's a small church, but has an exquisite dynamism.  On each corner of the intersection where the church sits are four Roman fountains depicting river gods.  Borromini incorporated one in his design.
I was tired by then, but I had one more stop--Santa Maria della Vittoria.  The church is a Baroque jewel and worth seeing for its own sake, but we were all there for Bernini's St. Theresa in Ecstasy, and it is just as marvelous in person.
Then I caught the metro home.  My place is a fair distance from the city center, but after having experienced the Tourist Zone today, I'm glad I am not staying in it.  The sites are wonderful. Fighting the crowds, school and tour groups and traffic is not.
As the saying goes:  When in Rome, do as the Romans do--as long as the doing is pleasurable without harming oneself or others.  Thus I have prepared a modest aperitivo.  This is the same concept as the French aperitif, and it is considered an art form.  One has a drink.  Aperol Spritz is the trendy one, but I don't like Aperol.  I prefer Campari and soda, but I have none at the moment, so I am making do (poor me) with Prosecco--really very good considering I pulled it off the bottom shelf for its low price.  One does not drink without eating so I have a few plump green olives and a crostini I spread with ricotta and then dressed with some garlic and olive oil.  Sounds appetizing doesn't it?  That's the idea!
Now that our appetites are worked up it's time for another Roman custom--Gnocchi Thursday!  This is akin to Taco Tuesday back home, I'm guessing.  I cooked some delicate potato gnocchi and dressed it with oil, garlic, and parmesan.  I am washing it down with an historic wine called Est Est Est!  Perfecto as we Italians say.