Tres Palazzi

 

Buon Giorno,

I'm pretty much over the jet lag so I took on a more ambitious project. But first I want to say that by luck or instinct I picked the perfect place to stay. It's as quiet as the tomb and within easy walking distance of most historical sites and many fun shops.  It was a pleasantly warm day, but it's turned a bit humid, so I was glad to drink some cold water when I got home.

The directions I get from google maps do me no good at all. I get to where I'm going, but invariably take the scenic route, which in Genoa is an distinct advantage. I just love wandering these narrow streets.

But my targets lay upon a broad boulevard. I got my ticket and entered Il Palazzo Rosso, so called from its red facade. It was part of the Rolli System and belonged to the Brignole-Sale Family who were noted collectors of art. Some of the period rooms are sparsely furnished, but the building itself is interesting and the ceiling frescos abound.

I climbed a LOT of stairs today in all three palaces, and the attendants are very strict about the route visitors follow. I think my appearance screams "Foreigner!" but people always speak to me in Italian. Sometimes I can figure it out.

The art collections in the palazzi are larger and more distinguished than that of Palazzo Spinola.

After I finished with Palazzo Rossi I walked down the street to Palazzo Bianco. By this time I was in need of a toilet and fortunately found one. Then I was ready for more exploration.

Palazzo Bianco is very art heavy. The building is less interesting, but there was an exhibition of historic costume, plus some fine ceramics along with the paintings. We were also allowed out on terrance overlooking the garden. Most of the art was Italian and local, but the family also was interested in Dutch and Flemish religious art. I saw some Van Dyke portraits and a couple of fine Rubens.

The last palazzo is directly connected to the Palazzo Bianco. Palazzo Tursi is the smallest, and the gem of its collection is a marble sculpture by Antonio Canova of the Penitent Magdalene, which like all his works is very elegant and graceful.

I was feeling arted out by then, so I emerged to the street to find my way home. I took the long way around enjoying the atmosphere and licking many a window.

Genoa was not what I expected, but the city has proved to be welcoming and a lot of fun to visit. For one thing walking around is both free and healthful.

Ciao for now