Buon Giorno!
I got some decent sleep, and I have to tell you left over focaccia and farinata make a mighty fine breakfast with strong black tea. And speaking of meals, I'm going to describe last night's dinner before getting to today's tourist action.
When I sampled the pesto I remarked that it would be better with pasta. I was correct--just understating the matter. I cooked up some linguini brought from home and Trader Joe's, but it is made in Italy, and dressed it with the pesto. Oh my goodness what a sublime treat! It was fragrant and rich, and the sharp flavor of the basil beautifully mellowed out.
But before you run out to the grocery store keep in mind that I had genuine DOP (i.e. traditional manufacture protected by EU regulations) pesto made with local basil, extra virgin olive oil, and pine nuts. Anyone with food processor can make fresh pesto, but good luck finding pine nuts that don't eat into your bank account. They are pricy even in Italy, and the ones available in the U.S. are usually dubious products of China. So while I'm here I am going to indulge in this delight. With it I had some interesting local red wine that was slightly frizzante sort of like Lambrusco. It was not the best pairing but the wine is good.
Italian food is popular world wide because it is accessible, simple, and straightforward for the most part, but the pleasure of the experience does depend on getting the right ingredients.
I'm home early--in part because I want to see the bike race (about which more tomorrow), but also because today's plans pretty much came to nothing. I set out for the Palazzo Ducale and was surprised that there was no line. The website said it opened at 10 today, but failed to mention it would not open at all! I didn't know that, but I saw a sign that the ticket office would open at 11, so I decided to stroll around until then. The area about Piazza dei Ferrai is very elegant with many grand buildings. It also has elaborate porticos--the coffered arcades over the sidewalks I also encountered in Bologna and Torino as well as mosaiced tiling on the sidewalks--with nautical themes befitting Genoa's heritage.
There are things I don't like about Europe such as people smoking on the streets because they can't do it indoors now. Also camped out under the porticos were beggars because this was a tourist zone with some very fancy hotels.
I got back, found a free toilet--for all genders. I guess Italians are used to this. It was a bit disconcerting for me. Then I got in line until the ticket office opened. At the ticket desk, I found my quest was in vain, and I didn't have a plan B except for buying more farinata for breakfast. Which I did.
So I strolled around some more licking windows and appreciating the architecture and pedestrianized streets. When I got home I found a family with two little dogs at the entry way. The bigger of them wanted my attention when spoke to it, then the puppy, seeing I was passing out some love wanted in on the action, so that was nice.
For apero we have some cheese from Piedmont, which is fair because that's where the bike race is now, and also I had Ligurian olive oil when I visited Turin. Along with it is some of that fizzy red wine. It's a lovely combination. The cheese is sitting on little bruschettas I got from the grocery store.
Dinner is another go of linguine and pesto. This time with local white wine. I'll have to eat something else eventually, but the pesto/pasta is So Good!
I could find cheaper accommodations, but I like being in historic centers, and having a kitchenette means 1) I save money on food and wine, and 2) I can come home and take off my shoes and contact lenses and just relax while I dine. The food I make is very simple or I bring something home.
Ciao for now
No comments:
Post a Comment