Journeying in Luxury

 

Buon Giorno,

Here I am at Genoa Cristobal Columbo airport for a very early flight. I'd booked a taxi, and the driver showed up at exactly the right time and informed me by text he'd arrived. We had a smooth trip to the airport, and I popped out to join the Sky Priority line because I'm flying business class. It's much shorter than the usual lines. I was directed to the lounge, but it is not open, so I went through security--very quick and smooth.

I am hungry as I did not get breakfast, but they will feed me on the plane. I just have to wait.  The airport is pretty small, but it does have duty free shops, which were open, and I had a look around. I squirted myself with Hermes Voyager. Very nice. Extremely expensive.

KLM no longer does first class, so I am at the top of the food chain. One fun perk of sitting at the front of the plane is that I got a glimpse of our handsome young pilot.

Greetings from Amsterdam waiting to board. The flight here was pleasant. It was a small plane, so the seats were more like premium economy, but I got a proper breakfast of yoghurt, muesili, and a salad with eggs and cheese. My tea came in a pretty china mug. It wasn't blue and white delftware, but it was painted to look like it.

Schipol has wonderful duty free shops, but my trek to the gate was so long, I couldn't afford to stop. Time to board!

Here is my seat. Because I had this space all to myself, I was able to take off my shoes.

Here are the good goodies that welcomed me aboard.

Instead of the usual gin and tonic, I requested a special KLM cocktail and the flight attendant made it for me. I thought it would just come out of a bottle. It was very boozy, and frankly I did not enjoy it that much. I am more of an aperitif person. The cocktail came with a lovely little bowl of Dutch cheese.

Here's the appetizer--which would have been enough for a full meal for me.

Salmon, salad and asparagus with wine from South Africa.

I had dinner, too, which I ate without taking a photo. More asparagus--it was white as the Germanic peoples like it with ham and more wine. Then came dessert. I picked cheese and was given some ruby port to go with it.

By this time I was stuffed and overfilled with alcohol. Another meal was offered before we landed, but I took a pass on that.

I got some sleep and was very comfortable also reading my kindle. The flight attendants learned all our names, and it was nice to see how the other 1% flew for a change. The little Dutch house at the start of the post was KLM's parting gift. It holds a sample of gin. Frequent flyers collect the different versions. Fortunately I'm not going back to coach. Premium Economy will do for me.

Here I am home again. After being pampered and cosseted for ten and a half hours, getting dumped out at LAX and having to make my way home was a bit of a wrench.

Rollli Days--La Superba

 Buon Giorno

If I ever return to Genoa I'm going to time it better.  Today is one of the spring Rolli Days where palazzi normally not open to the public do open. Of course, the real action is tomorrow, and I have an early flight.

One has to register and reserve a timed admission, and by time I got around to it a lot of spaces were taken, and since these are normally places of business the tourists on Friday get let in later, so I wouldn't have the energy for a lot of them, so I picked two. Genoa was a republic run by the richest of its citizens, so the government required them to host foreign dignitaries in their palazzi. This was called the Rolli System, and the palazzi open to the public were part of it.

I went out shopping and now I have to figure out how to pack my takings.

I'm back and feeling really tired. I decided to skip the other palazzo.  The visits are free, so I'm not losing out. But the palazzo I saw was lovely!  It's a bank that formerly belonged to Tobia Palavincino.  There's a tour that takes about half an hour, which I understand is typical for Rolli visits. It was in Italian. English tours do exist--tomorrow when I'm on the plane.

Because of having taught Art History, I have a solid idea of what I'm looking at.  The sumptuous ceiling frescos had Greek/Roman mythological themes.  We saw the entry way and then went upstairs to the piano nobile where the state apartments are and viewed the large meeting hall as well as smaller reception rooms and the chapel. All were lavishly and gorgeously decorated and very much worth seeing.

I have very much enjoyed my time in Genoa and better understand her nickname--La Superba--the Proud.  I saw a lot of beautiful sites and ate and drank tasty things.  But stay tuned. This is not my last post. My fabulous travel agent got me a deal and I'm flying back business class! It is an experience I'll want to share with you.

Ciao for now

Galeta: Museum of the Sea

 

Buon Giorno,

First some awkwardness. I don't think I was as badly affected as some because I had already breakfasted, brushed my teeth, showered and washed my hair (noticing that the water pressure was pretty feeble), and done the dishes. Then as I went to put on my contact lenses, I noticed the water was completely off.  And apparently it's going to stay off until tomorrow morning.  I'm going to have to go out in search of dinner, because I can't heat water for pasta. I have heat--no water!

Well, that's not going to stop me from enjoying my apero and blogging.  I had a palazzo yesterday, and I'm having palazzi tomorrow, so something different appealed to me, and it makes sense that Genoa would wish to commemorate and celebrate her sea going past and present--even if she does not go as far as Venice and actually have the Doge "marry" the sea.

The museum is huge and is a project. I got a discount for being old. (Dang it. They always take my word for it).  The ticket includes a visit to a submarine.  I'm a Navy Brat and have seen many a submarine in my time, so I skipped that part.

The informational placards are informative when English is presented, but it is not presented consistently.  Nevertheless, I learned that La Nina was Columbus's favorite ship, and although he had to use La Santa Maria as his flag ship, he did not like the way she sailed. She was not a true caravel.

There are plenty of models, and sometimes a chance to climb aboard one that is life sized. There are a LOT of maps and documents. The museum is really a pretty comprehensive history of the city as so much of its wealth and prestige depended on its ships--privately owned and operated by merchants, who nevertheless were willing to rent them out for military uses.

In Genoa's heyday, these were galleys, powered by oars. The theory is that the ships got their name from the Greek word for swordfish. I'm not seeing this myself, but the galleys were meant for ramming and boarding.  Conditions on board brutal, but not all the rowers were convicts.

One floor of the museum was dedicated to emigration. After unification in the Mid Nineteenth Century millions of Italians, mostly the rural poor left for the Western Hemisphere. As hard as their lives were as immigrants in the Americas, they enjoyed a far better existence in their new homes.

Italy like many other European countries has an immigrant problem, but Genoa seems to have a more generous and welcoming attitude towards them.

Besides my passport and credit cards, there are two things I always carry in Europe, and if you plan a visit I strongly urge you to follow my example. One is a pack of tissue. The other is an collapsable umbrella.  It began to rain as I left my place, and just as I returned in the rain there was a huge clap of thunder.

Apero consists of some Italian rose, some Bresaola (It's cured beef from Lombardy for which I developed a taste when I visited Milan, and I've already had cheese from Piedmont), and to balance out some healthfulness almonds.

I don't know what I'm having for dinner--some form of Focaccia probably and some local white wine.

Tomorrow's post will be much later as I had to book my entrance into the palazzi.

Ciao for now

Palazzo Reale

 

Buon Giorno,

Now you may be surprised to find a royal palace seated at the heart of a proud republic of a city-state, but the answer is not far to seek.  The Congress of Vienna imposed a lot of territorial arrangement and decided that Genoa would belong to House of Savoy. You may remember, if you follow my travels, that we met them in Torino.

I am under the impression that the Genovisi were less than pleased with the arrangement, as they persistently refer to the Kingdom of Sardinia, and come on, kids, Piedmont is right next door.  The Congress mostly confirmed control of the Italian Peninsula in the hands of the Hapsburgs and Bourbons. The House of Savoy at least were native Italians, so the Genovesi may have been better off  than others.

I guess I can understand some lingering resentment. The Palazzo Reale originally belonged to the wealthy and highly cultivated Durazzo Family, but King Carlo Alberto compelled them to sell their mansion and most of its contents to him.  He also made his son Fernando Duke of Genoa, and I can imagine that didn't go down well either.

It is easy to see by Carlo Alberto picked this house for his royal palace. It over looks the harbor, but the real draw was the sumptuous interior--truly fit for a king.  The visitor is treated to many beautifully furnished period rooms. The predominant period is Rococo, and it is exquisite.  The rooms are lavishly frescoed and boast a distinguished collection of paintings and statuary, some of which was brought from Torino.

 

It rained hard over night and it was still raining when I when out. My first stop was the grocery store. My last was the place I get my farinata.  I had my stout shoes and umbrella, so I had no fear of weather.

I looked up the directions and tried sending them to my phone. This proved worse than useless. When I tried to consult the directions, all I got was offerings of exotic apps. Fine. The Hop On Hop Off bus passed the Palazzo Reale, so I had a good idea where it was, and Genoa has some good sign posting. 

On the way I passed an open church. If you like Baroque (I do!) then Genoa's churches are for you. This was a wonderful Orotorio dedicated to St. Philip Neri.  On the way home I saw that San Luca was also open and popped in. Beautiful!

I actually enjoyed being out in the rain. It was cool, but not uncomfortable.  Right now I'm sitting on the stairs outside my apartment while the pleasant young woman does my room. When she's done I can take off my shoes, but I have already had some wine and cheese.

Dinner is tortellone with some pesto and parmesan. I have a different wine to drink with it. I got some DOP Italian rose. Let's have a sip. It tastes very like the Provencal stuff I drink at home, which is not exactly a surprise. Nice used to be under the rule of the House of Savoy--just like Genoa, and Provence has its own version of pesto.

Ciao for now

Villa di Principe

 Buon Giorno,

The principe or prince in question is Andrea Doria, who is actually a bigger deal in the history of Genoa than Columbus. He's just not as well known outside of Europe.  He was a victorious admiral and a friend of Holy Roman Emperor Charles V. He served as Doge and remained influential in the city until his death. The family is still around having allied by marriage to the Pamphilj Family. I visited their Roman residence when I was there.  Apparently they still have private apartments in Genoa as well.

The Villa is away from the historic center and over looks the harbor because the old Admiral liked to keep his eye on things. But it's a stop on the Metro, so I decided to take it there.  Genoa's metro is not a big deal. It essentially runs along the coast, and there aren't that many stops, but one stop, San Giorgio is not too far from me.

I went downstairs and got my ticket from the machine. Fortunately I'd read up on the system, so I knew to validate my ticket. There are no turn styles or any other ticket control to get to the trains.  BUT when I emerged at Principe a group of transit police were there inspecting tickets. They were very serious and apparently have no indulgence for ignorant foreigners. The fine is forty euro, and they will collect it if you have an unvalidated ticket.

The palace is right there; one just has to cross a street full of busses. The ticket office is upstairs. I got a discount for being old, but it always irritates me when they take my word for it.

This joint is definitely worth a visit  There are a lot of lovely period rooms with wonderful ceiling frescoes. and some interesting furniture and art.  I expected the place to be crowded, but it was not, so I got a good view of everything.  There is a terrace with great views of the harbor and the city behind.

The ticket includes admission to the garden, which is lovely.  It is not very large, but there are statues and fountains and an abundance of colorful flower. I spent a lot of time strolling around.

But I still had some juice left in me, so I decided to walk home. The villa was pretty much where the Hop On Hop Off bus dumped us, so I knew how long it was.  I took a slightly different way along a narrow street with a lot of fun looking shops, so it was a nice stroll back. I even had enough gumption to go find the truffle shop and get more chips, which I am eating because I'm hungry and tired. But my room hasn't been done yet, so I'll have to wait on a real apero.

Well, since my room was done late, and I have already had a snack, I'm going to skip apero and go straight to dinner--or cena as we Italians say.  I'm making capellini (It cooks quickly!), and I'll have it with that pesto/tuna sauce and some local white wine.  Yumsy!

Ciao for now

Il Acquario

 

Buon Giorno,

It's Monday, the museums are closed, and moreover it's a Giro d'Italia rest day--which the riders have earned, so I scheduled a trip to the Acquario de Genova.  I'd enjoyed the one in Monaco, and I figured a visit would be a good way to pass the time. I was mistaken. It was a GREAT way to pass the time.  If you ever come to Genoa this is truly a must see.

I booked my tickets on line picking the day and time and they were sent to my email, so I had them on my smart phone to show. Unlike the poor saps waiting in line at the ticket office, I breezed right in.

The aquarium is justly popular, and even with time controlled entry it was crowded, and several school groups took up space I could have used.  Monaco's aquarium was impressive; Genoa's blows it away.  The exhibits were varied and fascinating--with excellent explanations in both Italian and English.

Yes, that is a manatee! Apart from fishes, charming seahorses, turtles, the aquarium cultivates rare corals. star fish, and sea anemones.  The big draw is the dolphins, which they also breed, but today they were feeling shy, so I only caught a passing glimpse.  Big fish, little fish, antarctic, tropical. You name it, they probably have it.

One highlight was a shallow pool of rays of various sorts--none of them large. Visitors are allowed to touch the creatures, which don't seem to mind. I waited my chance and reached into the pool. The rays skin was rough and sand paper like. It was a fun and different experience.

I want to give Genoa some major credit for two things. One is they have gone to a lot of trouble to give the creatures some semblance of natural habitat. It's not just tanks. Two is that they make a point of discussing ecological issues such as climate change, habitat destruction, and plastic.  It's also a major center of scientific aquatic research. It does cost a lot to visit, but given the work they, do I can't grudge the entry fee.

I came out and decided to have a walk around a part of the historic center I had not yet visited. I stopped outside a gelato shop. Ok. I did more than stop. I went in and came out with some gelato.  I had violetta and amarena. The latter is dark cherry with actual cherries in it. Both tasted just like heaven.  I mean it's rude to come to Italy and not eat gelato. And besides, the afternoon was hot.

Dinner is some spinach/ricotta tortellone liberally dressed with garlic, parmesan, and olive oil and washed down with the local frizzante red wine.

Ciao for now

Out of Town--Sort Of

 

Buon Giorno,

I wanted to give myself a fairly easy day--Riding around on a Hop On Hop Off bus--how hard could it be? Well, it's hot, and the return bus dumped me off far from home, so I'm still tired and wilted.

I thought it would be fun to go out to Boccadasse, which is more of a suburb, and which preserves part of a traditional fishing village.  The ride wound around a lot of Genoa I had not seen, and I appreciated the monuments and many very handsome buildings.  We also went through more normal business and residential districts.

Boccadasse seems to be a rather tony resort town. It's Sunday and La Festa de Mama here in Italy, so I wish all you moms the best, but something else was going on at he historic part. There were hundreds, and I do mean hundreds of people in hot pink T shirts wearing numbers. They just seemed to be milling around, so the narrow streets were crowded and it was hard to move along.

I did like the glimpses of the blue Mediterranean and the refreshing sea breeze, but I soon had enough of the crowds, so I made my way back to the bus stop. At length the bus came and drove us around the city.  I expected to be let off pretty close to home, but this did not happen.

Fortunately my walk was flat along the coast, and I know my way about by now. 

I'm eating truffle potato chips because I am hungry, but I can't have an actual apero because my room hasn't been done yet. I've taken my contact lenses out, but the shoes are still on.

And now the shoes are off. My room is done, and I'm going to treat myself to a taste of that orange liqueur I bought as I listen to the Giro stage.  This stuff is called Mandarino. Let's have a sip. It's ok--rather like a syrupy orange version of limoncello and best taken in small doses.  Hmm. I wonder if I could make an Italian version of Kir with some white wine. I will contemplate this.

Pasta purists don't like capellini, and I don't care. It cooks quickly and sauces up really well. It needs salt to be perfect. And yum!  I had some pesto, pasta water, and a lot of parmesan DOP.  If you want the best of wine, cheese, whatever, find out the region's mark of quality, and you won't go wrong.  For example the fizzy red wine I get is under five euro, but it has the DOP designation. The white wine I drink is more expensive, but not very costly. I'm not a connoisseur, but I do enjoy my food and drink.

Ciao for now

Somthing a Bit Different

 

Buon Giorno,

As you can see from the photo I took a walk in a park.  But it turned hot today, and I'm tired. I have had my water and taken off my contacts and shoes, and I'm ready to dive into my apero.  I'm having the frizzante red wine and that cheese from Piedmont I like so much.

I passed several palazzi on my way, but they are not open to the public at this time being municipal offices or in one case a Very Fancy Hotel with a stern looking doorman.  It was all uphill, and this is hard for me, but I can congratulate myself on getting fitter.

I went through Piazza Ferrari and found Via Roma after a couple of false starts. This is a big shopping district, and the streets are wider and traffic laden with honking and sirens and all the bru ha ha of an Italian city center,  I'm glad I live in a different neighborhood.

I visited the Galleria Giuseppe Mazzini, which was supposed to be very cool and worth seeing. I was frankly unimpressed.  Hon, I've been to Milan and Torino. Your mall doesn't do it for me, and the stores are a lot more fun down in the alleys of the historic center.

I proceeded--uphill and having to deal with major traffic. At one point I had to take a subway which is what Europeans call a passage under a road.  But I was after some greenery.  After all the cityness, I was craving some open space as well as trees and water.  The place is called Villetta di Negro--I don't know why--Negro simply means black in Italian.  There was more walking up hill, and some of the park was closed off, but I did find a bench where I was away from traffic noise and could enjoy the sound of falling water.

Fortunately the way home was downhill, and I took the long way around even though it was getting hot. 29 Celsius is 84 F.  I have learned of necessity to be (imperfectly) bilingual in both metric and celsius.

Back in the shady alleys, I happily licked windows, and treated myself to some orange liqueur, which I'll try another day,  I also went back to my favorite farinata shop, so breakfast is provided for.

For dinner I did an experiment. I made a tuna-pesto sauce to go with my pasta created by mushing up the tuna with some pesto and adding a bit of pasta water. Let's try it shall we?  Very nice! Clearly I am a culinary genius--except I can't help thinking it's such an obvious combination that someone thought of it before

Ciao for now

Tres Palazzi

 

Buon Giorno,

I'm pretty much over the jet lag so I took on a more ambitious project. But first I want to say that by luck or instinct I picked the perfect place to stay. It's as quiet as the tomb and within easy walking distance of most historical sites and many fun shops.  It was a pleasantly warm day, but it's turned a bit humid, so I was glad to drink some cold water when I got home.

The directions I get from google maps do me no good at all. I get to where I'm going, but invariably take the scenic route, which in Genoa is an distinct advantage. I just love wandering these narrow streets.

But my targets lay upon a broad boulevard. I got my ticket and entered Il Palazzo Rosso, so called from its red facade. It was part of the Rolli System and belonged to the Brignole-Sale Family who were noted collectors of art. Some of the period rooms are sparsely furnished, but the building itself is interesting and the ceiling frescos abound.

I climbed a LOT of stairs today in all three palaces, and the attendants are very strict about the route visitors follow. I think my appearance screams "Foreigner!" but people always speak to me in Italian. Sometimes I can figure it out.

The art collections in the palazzi are larger and more distinguished than that of Palazzo Spinola.

After I finished with Palazzo Rossi I walked down the street to Palazzo Bianco. By this time I was in need of a toilet and fortunately found one. Then I was ready for more exploration.

Palazzo Bianco is very art heavy. The building is less interesting, but there was an exhibition of historic costume, plus some fine ceramics along with the paintings. We were also allowed out on terrance overlooking the garden. Most of the art was Italian and local, but the family also was interested in Dutch and Flemish religious art. I saw some Van Dyke portraits and a couple of fine Rubens.

The last palazzo is directly connected to the Palazzo Bianco. Palazzo Tursi is the smallest, and the gem of its collection is a marble sculpture by Antonio Canova of the Penitent Magdalene, which like all his works is very elegant and graceful.

I was feeling arted out by then, so I emerged to the street to find my way home. I took the long way around enjoying the atmosphere and licking many a window.

Genoa was not what I expected, but the city has proved to be welcoming and a lot of fun to visit. For one thing walking around is both free and healthful.

Ciao for now

Some Tourist Action

 

Buon Giorno,

Farinata may be well be the Best Breakfast Ever. When I'm on a trip I have strong black tea for breakfast, and the mild, yet rich tasting--a bit nutty? farinata goes great with it. It's filling fuel for a lot of touristy walking, and I'm thinking it must be healthful, too. 

I've given up on the Palazzo Ducale. There are sumptuous state rooms used by the Doges, but evidently they aren't going to let me in, so I chose a different target--The Palazzo Spinola, which is also Genoa's National Gallery.

The place is very close by my own, and I looked at the map, got the directions, stepped out of my front door and promptly got lost. This is a common occurrence in my travels, and I generally get to where I'm going eventually, and anyway Genoa is just a lot of fun to walk around in. Torino was all grand avenues and piazzas. Genoa's historic center is mostly pedestrianized--out of necessity, I imagine, because those narrow streets can hardly accommodate small delivery vans and motorcycles.

It's also all up and down, which gives me a good work out, and the streets are lined with fascinating shops to provide window licking opportunities. It's often difficult to find out the name of the street I'm on, so I often don't know where I am, but unexpectedly I came upon a promising looking church. I went in.

Wow! San Siro is a Baroque masterpiece. None of the churches in Genoa are famous, and that's a shame because they are gloriously beautiful. San Siro in particular illustrated the Art Historical concept of horror vacui or fear of empty spaces. Every available surface was covered with frescos, paintings, and marble decoration.

But I still wanted to find Palazzo Spinola. I consulted my map, and I still got turned around until suddenly I stumbled upon it. That means it's time for some history!  The Doges of Genoa knew what they were about. They required rich families to build palazzi suitable for hosting foreign dignitaries. This is called the Rolli System.  The Palazzo was originally built and owned by the Grimaldi Family, but when they fell upon hard times, the mansion passed by marriage to the Dorias  Most of the decoration was done by one of the Doria Sisters, Maddelena, who married into the Spinola Family.  Eventually in the mid Twentieth Century two Spinola brothers who were childless were convinced to donate the palazzo to the Italian State.

The rooms are richly decorated in the Rococo Style--very elegant and ornate with lavish ceiling frescos, abundant paintings and solid furniture.  I enjoyed the set up of the kitchen and also a large collection of porcelain teapots. I enjoyed looking at them, but they were far too small for the amount of tea I consume daily. On the upper floors are a collection of paintings and sculptures from Ligurian artists. Downstairs in the period rooms one finds portraits of the Doria men by Van Dyke and Rubens.  Fortunately I finished my visit just as the crowds began to arrive.

By luck I took the direct way home, but I also did a bit of shopping to get my breakfast farinata, for one thing. I also succumbed to the lure of the truffle shop. The gracious proprietor urged me to taste the samples. The woman knows how to make a sale! I came away with truffle powder, which will be divine on pasta and some truffle chips I can have as an apero at some point.

Today's apero is Italian tuna, for protein and Omega 3's sake, but it's very good along with the frizzante red wine I like. I'm afraid readers will find my dinners rather repetitive as they will mostly involve pasta and pesto, but I can't help myself. It's so very good!

In other news my prediction about the Giro d'Italia stage came to nothing. The sprinters' teams miscalculated and let a breakaway stay away.

Ciao for now

Amore Infinito: Il Giro d'Italia etape 5

 

Buon Giorno,

I am a hard core road cycling fan and have been for years. Fortunately for most of my friends, I have a friend who also likes cycling, and we can go on and on to each other about race tactics, the riders, the prize jerseys, and complaints about how all the team kits all look alike this year, so we can't tell one team from the next, thus sparring the general public.

I have been to the Tour de France several times, but I have also always wanted to go the Tour of Italy--Il Giro d'Italia, and today I got to do that. When I booked my trip I did not know that the race would start one stage in Genoa, but when I found out, I determined to attend and found a place in the city that the riders would go through that was within easy walking distance.

The stages start with what they call a neutralized zone to let the riders warm up and sort out any mechanical issues they may have before they start racing. It also allows the peloton to get out of the cities, their narrow streets, and obstacles before they go up to speed. I was in the neutral zone as the real racing began outside the city in a place I could not get to.  

This is the experience of standing by the side of the road at a bike race. One waits a long time.  Then the publicity caravan rolls through. At the Tour de France they pass out goodies from the sponsors, but in town they just drove past. I tried to take a picture (not very successfully) with my phone.  See above.

Then the team cars paraded past. I support Team Visma Lease-a-Bike, but I also favor some of the other teams and riders. After a very long wait we got the riders. They ride fast, and if you blink, you miss them. Yep. All the waiting for about forty seconds of gratification. I had the company of a charming young Italian woman, and we agreed it was worth it. We also are both fans of Julien Alaphilippe.  She asked me who would win the stage. I said, "A sprinter. I'm rooting for Olav Kooj. He's cute." He's also Team Visma-LAB.

Pil, we have No Idea who these guys are.

Your loss, Bud.

Barring accident the winner of the Giro is already known. The Prince of Cycling is the Slovene Tadaj Pogacar, who has already won the Tour de France twice, plus a number of other stage and one day races. He has not won the Tour the last two years, but this year he hopes to "do the double," i,e, win both the Giro and the Tour a feat last achieved by Marco Pantani in 1998. I was at the Tour finale that year and saw him do it. 

So I am watching the rest of the stage in the comfort of my apartment having a nice apero of red wine and cheese.

Pil, what is this peloton of which you speak?

Oh. It's the French word for fleet, so it's applied to the big bunch of riders riding together.

Pil, you realize, don't you, that you are insane. They are a bunch of guys riding bicycles. What's the thrill?

You think so because you don't get it. Here. Let me explain  . . . Hey where're you going?

Maybe I can interest you in what I'm having for dinner instead. I'm taking a short break from pesto and will have some tortellini dressed with garlic and extra V olive oil. The presence of garlic and oil will instantly turn any pasta into wonderful health food, which also has the advantage of being extremely tasty.  I really like my pasta doused in oil. I tasted the oil I bought, and it made me cough, so The Good Stuff.

Ciao for now

It Didn't Work Out After All

Buon Giorno!

I got some decent sleep, and I have to tell you left over focaccia and farinata make a mighty fine breakfast with strong black tea.  And speaking of meals, I'm going to describe last night's dinner before getting to today's tourist action.  

When I sampled the pesto I remarked that it would be better with pasta. I was correct--just understating the matter.  I cooked up some linguini brought from home and Trader Joe's, but it is made in Italy, and dressed it with the pesto. Oh my goodness what a sublime treat!  It was fragrant and rich, and the sharp flavor of the basil beautifully mellowed out.

But before you run out to the grocery store keep in mind that I had genuine DOP (i.e. traditional manufacture protected by EU regulations) pesto made with local basil, extra virgin olive oil, and pine nuts.  Anyone with food processor can make fresh pesto, but good luck finding pine nuts that don't eat into your bank account. They are pricy even in Italy, and the ones available in the U.S. are usually dubious products of China.  So while I'm here I am going to indulge in this delight. With it I had some interesting local red wine that was slightly frizzante sort of like Lambrusco. It was not the best pairing but the wine is good.

Italian food is popular world wide because it is accessible, simple, and straightforward for the most part, but the pleasure of the experience does depend on getting the right ingredients.

I'm home early--in part because I want to see the bike race (about which more tomorrow), but also because today's plans pretty much came to nothing. I set out for the Palazzo Ducale and was surprised that there was no line. The website said it opened at 10 today, but failed to mention it would not open at all!  I didn't know that, but I saw a sign that the ticket office would open at 11, so I decided to stroll around until then. The area about Piazza dei Ferrai is very elegant with many grand buildings. It also has elaborate porticos--the coffered arcades over the sidewalks I also encountered in Bologna and Torino as well as mosaiced tiling on the sidewalks--with nautical themes befitting Genoa's heritage.

There are things I don't like about Europe such as people smoking on the streets because they can't do it indoors now. Also camped out under the porticos were beggars because this was a tourist zone with some very fancy hotels.

I got back, found a free toilet--for all genders. I guess Italians are used to this. It was a bit disconcerting for me. Then I got in line until the ticket office opened. At the ticket desk, I found my quest was in vain, and I didn't have a plan B except for buying more farinata for breakfast. Which I did.

So I strolled around some more licking windows and appreciating the architecture and pedestrianized streets.  When I got home I found a family with two little dogs at the entry way. The bigger of them wanted my attention when spoke to it, then the puppy, seeing I was passing out some love wanted in on the action, so that was nice.

For apero we have some cheese from Piedmont, which is fair because that's where the bike race is now, and also I had Ligurian olive oil when I visited Turin. Along with it is some of that fizzy red wine.  It's a lovely combination. The cheese is sitting on little bruschettas I got from the grocery store.

Dinner is another go of linguine and pesto. This time with local white wine. I'll have to eat something else eventually, but the pesto/pasta is So Good!

I could find cheaper accommodations, but I like being in historic centers, and having a kitchenette means 1) I save money on food and wine, and 2) I can come home and take off my shoes and contact lenses and just relax while I dine. The food I make is very simple or I bring something home.

Ciao for now

A Wander Through the Streets of Genoa

 

Buon Giorno,

I'm having an early apero. Let me have another bite of the farninata--a very characteristic Ligurian snack that resembles the socca from Nice. It's essentially a pancake made out of ground chickpeas. I happen to like chickpeas, and hummus is popular in the United States, but they aren't to everyone's taste.  But it sure goes down a treat with a sip of the local white wine.

It's Monday and the museums or most of them are closed. I got a few hours sleep last night and woke up not realizing where I was. I am still jet lagged, but I had a pleasant day exploring. Genoa slopes up from the port, so I had plenty of up and down walking, which is good for me, and I saw quite a bit of the historic center, which just struck me as a profoundly Italian place.

First I made my way up to the Piazza Ferrari which is pretty much tourist central. There's a lovely fountain--well, you can just look at the photo. The square is surrounded by elegant buildings, and in an ajoining pizza is the Palazzo Ducale--the seats of the Doges of Genoa, which is my target for tomorrow. It was hosting a book fair today, which I thought was fun.

Walking down Via San Lorenzo, I unexpectedly came up Genoa's cathedral dedicated to San Lorenzo. You remember him. According to the legend he was being fried by the Romans and said, "Turn me over boys, I'm done on this side." The church is not famous, but it was definitely worth a visit. It's a Gothic Church with black and white stone work and a Baroquish interior. Lovely!

Let's have a little history shall we. Genoa is in Liguria, which was eventually taken over by the Romans although a town existed here before. The Late Middle Ages and Early Renaissance was Genoa's time to shine. Its excellent harbor, strategic location, and enterprising seamen and merchants made the city RICH. Genoa was an important city-state, but it's ambitions--unlike Milan, for example, were mercantile rather than political. Genoa fought a trade war or two, but did not crave territory. As a proudly independent city, Genoa was an oligarch republic ruled by a Doge, who was elected to a life term. As in other city-states, the same wealthy families alternated in the office. Ironically, it was Genoese Christopher Columbus, who led to the city's decline (and the Portuguese contributed as well).  With strong monarchical states controlling trade to Asia and the Americas, Italian city-states did not have much of a chance, nevertheless, Genoa can be proud of its contributions to banking and finance.

Dang! This farninata is seriously addictive. Chickpeas. It's total health food right? Right??

Then I strolled down to the Old Port, which is another major tourist draw. I noted a whale watching cruise. I don't think there are any whales in the Med so . . . The big draw is a world class Aquarium, which I will have to attend at some point. I also visited the market there and admired some of the offerings, but I did not buy anything.  The plane I was on yesterday flew down the coast so I got a good view then, too.

I ended up on Via Garabaldi where I passed the fanciest banks I have ever come across. One of them is the oldest bank in Europe. They had their own gardens, and I think in their former lives they were palazzi.

On my wander I stopped at a hole in the wall Focaccia shop where I got my farinata. I did not neglect Genoa's other contribution to the culinary world. Besides pesto Genoa is responsible for focaccia.  It's everywhere, there are many varieties (I had mine with cheese), and it is sublime.

Ciao for now

Buon Giorno from Genoa

 Buon Giorno!

It was a long and tiring journey, and I'm jet lagged out of my mind. I can't get the TV or the induction stove top to work, which is disappointing because I wanted to have some DOP Pesto genovese on pasta for dinner. Maybe I'll dab some on a bruschetta. I do have DOP wine from the region so I'll have a sip in a bit.  But I'm glad to be here!

The trip mostly went smoothly. My ride came a bit early, but I was prepared, and it was a quick trip to the airport, check in and even security. We no longer have to unpack the electronics or take off our shoes. Yay!

Premium Economy on KLM was surprisingly luxurious. The dinner featured lobster salad as an appetizer for instance, and for breakfast there was cheese and smoked salmon among other things. Very nice indeed, but unfortunately I got no sleep.

We arrived on time in Amsterdam, and I had plenty of time to make my connection, but this is where it got sticky. Our plan arrived late from its previous flight and suffered a mechanical issue, so we were over an hour late leaving. Normally it wouldn't matter too much, but I had booked a taxi, and the company said it would track my flight, but at first it didn't seem like it. I got my bag and went out to arrivals at Christofero Columbo Airport (proudly named after Genoa's most famous son) there was no driver awaiting me. I texted the guy while I was at baggage claim, and after a bit got a text back. He was on his way.

He not only drove me to my destination. He dragged my bags up the cobbled street to the door of my accommodation. Then he rang the bell. No response. I texted them after a while, obviously I got in. I am not familiar with the city, but I'm on a quiet pedestrianized street close to the historic center.  Here are my digs.

Very spacious. There is a gourmet food shop practically next door, and a nice grocery store down the street as well as other intriguing things in my neighborhood. I'll enjoy exploring.

I am going to have a modest apero of some bruschetta dabbed with pesto. The scent of the basil is intoxicating. Having pesto in Italy was revelation. It is so much better than what we get even from fancy places. The wine is a white Liguria di Levante, and very nice it is, too.  I no longer follow the five euro rule, so I splash out a bit. It goes beautifully with the pesto, but the pesto would be better on pasta. I'll try to make it happen.

Ciao for now