Return to Villefranche-sur-Mer

Bon jour, mes amies,

The forecast was for rain and cold, so I planned to go to Monaco and do indoor activities, but the day dawned bright and sunny, and I didn't need my layers when I went grocery shopping, so I decided to take the bus to Villefranche-sur-Mer.  I liked the place, and I was determined to see the Chapelle St. Pierre.
The approach to Villefranche by bus is much different than by train and far more scenic.  The bus stops at the top of the town, and the tourist action is near the port, so what goes down must inevitably come up again.  I got a lot of exercise.  It's good for me.
I lucked into a Marche Provencal in one of the squares.  I didn't buy anything, but it's fun to look.  This one seemed to cater to tourists rather than locals though.
I followed the (misleading) signs for the Tourist Office.  Now I did eventually find it by accident because the location was not anywhere near where the signs were pointing and in fact the location was in the opposite direction the signs indicated. Odd.
Since it was a gorgeous weekend day, Villefranche's old town was crowded.  I love prowling the streets and looking in touristy shops, but a couple of times I got stuck behind a smoker.  It seems to me that fewer people smoke now or fewer people do in public.  The EU has mounted a years-long anti smoking campaign, and they have recently added anti vaping.
I also want to note that Villefranche has nice public toilets, and they are free.  Nice has plenty of public toilets, too, and they are fine, but they cost fifty euro cents.
I found the Chapelle de St. Pierre.  It's a Romanesque gem, a small chapel dedicated to the patron saint of fishermen, and if you know anything about the Gospels, it makes sense that this is St. Peter himself.  I found the exterior very Italianate.  It's highly decorated but the decorations are not "traditional."  The exterior and interior designs were done by Jean Cocteau.
Yes. That Jean Cocteau.  I know his cinematic work the best.  Beauty and the Beast is magical! But he was also a poet, novelist--and it turns out a brilliant designer and artist.  He was the friend to all the artistic elite of the early Twentieth Century, but his closest relationship--the nature of which is still ambiguous--was with Raymond Radiguet. When his friend died leaving Cocteau devastated,  he came to Villefranche-sur-Mer to find some peace.  He also began to renew his spiritual life.
In the late 1950s he persuaded the town government to let him restore and decorate the Chapelle de St. Pierre.  Photography is forbidden to the visitor, but you can find photos on line, and I encourage you to have a look.  Cocteau created fresh looking, direct representations of scenes from the life of St. Peter as well as references to local life and customs.  I found the simple yet compelling frescos both beautiful and moving.
But then I faced the steep climb up the hill to the bus stop.  It had turned hot and humid, and I even took off my sweater. But the ride back was refreshing enough and the weather so pleasant, I walked back from the bus stop through the parks.  I see through my window that it's clouded over again, which does not surprise me given how humid it became.
I was very hungry when I got home--thirsty, too, but I always drink water.  I'm having a big apero of rillettes on one slice of toast, and Rocamador goat cheese on another.  Both are divine.
A demain