Thursday, July 21, 2011

A Trip to Leiden



Goededag!
The forecast was for rain again, but when I looked out the window this morning bits of blue sky were visible among the thin clouds.  Another day of good weather?  Yes!  So I went to Leiden.
I left early and trammed to the Centraal Station.  I had to wait around a little for my train, but the ride was fun. The trip to Leiden takes about thirty-five minutes. The trains are double deckers.  I stay on the lower floor on the way out out because I am not sure of when to get off.  After leaving the city water is everywhere, of course, but the beauty of the wild flowers struck me as well.  Ruby red poppies and white Queen Anne’s Lace share the grassy margins with blue and purple flowers I don’t recognize.
I was pleased to find the Tourist Information Office right across the street from the station.  I got a map and much advice from the tourist info guy at the counter.  Leidenese (Leidenites?) are obviously proud of their beautiful city for good reason, and I got some good tips not available from my guide book.
The first stop was the art museum.  Why aren’t you surprised?  Leiden was Rembrandt’s home town, but the collection in the museum included none of his works and was largely undistinguished.  The period rooms, on the other hand, were fascinating.  After my visit I walked along some canals.
Don't you ever get tired of strolling along canals, Pil?
No.
I also strolled down Leiden’s main and pedestrianized shopping street where I came across some seriously good ice cream.  The flavors were gelato flavors, but the taste was more milky like ice cream.
Leiden is in Southern Holland and has been the target of attacks and sieges many times.  A fortress sits in the center of the town.  I think the hill it sits on is an artificial mound given the general flatness of the country.  The views were nice.
I lucked into Leiden’s market day, so that was my next stop.  I bought some olives.  Yes, I know that olives aren’t exactly a Dutch product, but still. . .
After some more strolling around—very worthwhile in this very pleasant and attractive place, I returned to the station for my train back.  I sat on the top level as Amsterdam is the end of the line, so I had wonderful views.  You could look up the artist van Ruisdael to get an idea.  Flat land, big sky, much green and some farms and houses dotted here and there.  Until we approached Amsterdam and then it was all about the high-rise apartments and post modernist corporate buildings.  It was a relief to reach the historic center.
I trammed back most of the way home and hopped off because I needed to walk a bit to get groceries. I have to wonder what I look like because a group of young people picked me out on a crowded street to ask for directions.  They spoke English to me and understood what I was able to tell them.  They wanted the city center but were way off course, and I was glad to be able to help.  The reason I wonder what I look like is that when I get home and see my wild hair in the mirror, I think of nothing other than Wicked Witch of the West.
For dinner I tucked into my cheese purchases from Zaanse Schans.  I had the matured goat cheese with mustard. Jars of mustard and spreaders are available at the cheese shop, so folks can try the combination with a variety of cheeses and mustards. The mustard I am using comes from Zaanse Schans, but in fact I got it at the grocery store and have been dipping sausage chunks in it.  The idea is that the mustard helps digest the fat.  It also tastes great.  I can’t say the same for the (cheapo) Rose I chose to accompany this cheese fest.  I am hardly a wine connoisseur, but even I can tell skunky from decent.  Meh.  Shoulda stuck with beer!  But the cheese is first rate.  It’s not at all goaty but has a great mild flavor vaguely reminiscent of some really good Monterey Jack.  The mustard is an enhancement and does not overpower the cheese as long as it’s applied in small dabs.
Dag!

2 comments:

  1. I've been watching the weather report for where you are (why bother here, it is hot and always be hot, unless it's hotter) in hopes of a good sightseeing day.

    How I love period rooms!

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  2. Period rooms are far more interesting than artifacts in a display case. I want to see the things in some kind of context.

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