Churches and Cheese

Goededag

So it’s an unfortunate combination of Monday and Tour de France rest day.  Unfortunate because most of the museums across the Netherlands are shut tight, so there’s no point in my trying to leave the city.  Nevertheless Amsterdam does have its attractions.

After a trip to the regular grocery store for some regular groceries, I set off for the Albert Cuyp Market; Amsterdam’s largest and most renowned.   Not having a canal to follow, I promptly got lost, but walking is good, and I fetched up at the right place eventually.

Sure the tourists come here. I did. But the street markets are where many Europeans buy their food and other basic goods.  There’s a variety of food and much clothing on offer. I spent a fair amount of time poking around.  More about my purchase later.

After dumping off said purchase at my apartment I set off for a stroll around town.  Since it is a weekday and museums are closed quite a few of the people on the streets were tourists. I visited the flower market, which is very pretty, but I know better than to try to bring anything back.  I found a place with an Italian name selling gelato, but it wasn’t actually that good.  I walked down Kalverstaat licking windows.

I did take some detours to religious establishments.  Just off bustling commercial Kalverstraat is the Beguinehof.  Beguines were Roman Catholic laywomen dedicated to public service.  They avoided both the nuns' vows and the cloistering but tended to live communally.  One walks through the arches into what seems to be another world.  The houses and gardens are very pretty, but what is startling is the sudden transition from city center to village.  It’s not large and there’s nothing to see but the houses, gardens, small chapel, and the cats playing on the central lawn.  Nevertheless, I’d call this peaceful spot a must see.

The second religious establishment was of a more Protestant nature although it began its career as a gothic cathedral built in the 1400s.  This is Amsterdam’s “New Church” built smack in the center of town and conveniently located next to the palace for Dutch crowned heads to take their sacred oaths.  Being now a Protestant church it is comparatively bare of ornament, but it has an impressive organ, a marvelous baroque pulpit intricately carved in wood, and a copper screen on the choir.  I used my museum card to get in.

By the time I emerged, I had had enough of city streets and crowds.  I’d had enough of litter and dodging dog poop as well.  The Dutch who take such pride in their homes apparently don’t extend their concern to their streets and plazas. It had turned humid, so I made my way across town to the Vondelpark, named for the beloved poet and playwright Joost von den Vondel.  This is Amsterdam’s largest city park located near the Rijksmuseum.  It’s a fairly bustling place as a major cycling route passes through, and many Amsterdamers and tourists come to picnic or rest.  It possesses the usual features: dogs, cafes, flowers, trees, fountains, passed out drunks.  I strolled a while and then found a grassy place on the shore of a lake where I could watch ducks.  I don’t know what they were up to, but instead of paddling quietly around in a duck-like manner, they were flapping and splashing.  The object I at first took for a statue turned out to be a heron standing on its nest of twigs.

Then back home.  I have had an aperitif of some prosecco that did not violate my five euro rule and a snack of olives and almonds.  So now it’s time for—

The European Cheese Face Off.  In this corner France.  In the corner over here The Netherlands with the home advantage.  I actually don’t think this is going to be fair.  At the market I bought something that purports to be Camembert, but I am having some serious doubts about it.  It has no smell and a rubbery texture.  The home team is represented by Jong Gouda or young Gouda.  Both will be presented on a whole wheat cracker and at room temperature.  Both have had the rind peeled away. The drink of the day is some more of that Grolsch Kanon I liked so much.  The Dutch swear by the beer/cheese combination, which is another point in their favor in this contest.

Bite one:  Fake Camembert.  Well, it’s cheese and it’s not bad, but it’s not Camembert either.

Bite two:  Young Gouda—and I hope this is more authentic.  Hmmm.  Both are buttery and smooth.  The Gouda develops more as one chews although it is initially a bit bland like over mild cheddar.  But it turns out to be subtle and pretty complex for a young cheese and nicely satisfying.  Goes really well with beer, too!  So we can declare a winner for now, but I think France is going to demand a rematch.

Dag!