Meet the Wittelbachs--and Their Stuff

Lots of Wittelsbachs.  LOTS of stuff!
Guten Tag!
Are these Wittelsbachs any thing like the Grimaldis?
Well--yes--except the Grimaldis are still hanging on as ruling family, but the Wittelsbachs--and I am sure there are some still around somewhere--had the distinction of ruling Bavaria for nearly one thousand years, which I call pretty impressive.  One reason Bismarck had to call it the German Empire was the incorporation of the Kingdom of Bavaria in the unified Germany.  On the whole the
Wittelsbach seem to have been a decent lot, but every family has its eccentrics.  Long time readers of this blog have already met Elisabeth Wittelsbach--the Elisabeth of Bavaria known as Sissi, who married the Emperor Franz Joseph of Austria. She was fond of her cousin Ludwig II the "Mad" whom we'll meet later.  They shared a depressive tendency.  She grew her hair.  He built castles.
I enjoyed my Fruhstuck once again.  The bread can best be described as sublime.  I cut a thick slice of richly dark rye bread and slathered soft liver paste thickly upon it and that was just part of the repast.
Pil, you are killing me!
But I had gotten some decent sleep and was feeling pretty well, so it was time for some tourist action.  I determined to visit the Rezidence--which is the place the Wittelsbachs and their pals stayed when they were in Munich.  They started with a castle and ended up with probably the most magnificent palace north of the Rhine.  The joint was knocked around quite a bit as a result of World War II, but I would call it the Must See when you come to Munich.
And I really hope you come to Munich.  It's a handsome city, easy to navigate--I have not been lost once.  It's friendly with plenty of everything for everybody.
I walked to the palace--as I have said Munich is easily navigable and got a combination ticket.  This was a genuine bargain--not just because of the spectacular nature of the sights but also because it included the audio guide.
Be warned.  The Rezidence is a Serious Palace.  Some ninety beautifully and authentically decorated rooms on are offer, and they deserve your time.  This does not even count the royal Treasury.
Just give us the highlights, Pil.
I'll try.  One of the first things the visitor encounters is the Chamber of Antiquities.  Now I also appreciated the busts of Roman Emperors, but the real draw is the Renaissance painted vault.  The rest of the palace is a mixture of grand rooms like the Chamber of Justice and a few more intimate ones where members of the family could withdraw from public scrutiny.  In the Treasury, I liked the crowns and the incredibly exquisite yet heroic figurine of St. George Killing the Dragon all done in gold, crystal, and gems.  Audio guides are hit or miss in my experience, but this one was genuinely helpful, and the music it played didn't hurt either.
The visit took a chunk of the day, but I still had some gumption left to return to the Viktualienmarkt.
Yeah.  You are just teasing us--describing all the wondrous goodies but consuming none
No!  I bought something this time.  Several somethings.  Would you like to experience them with me?
Slaver, drool . . .
Once you've wiped off your screen we'll begin.  This is a real German meal.  I have potatoes--small with thin golden skin and a very potatoish taste.  Let's have some Leiberkase--which should translate to liver cheese, but it's not that at all but more of a slab of rich tasting meatloaf sort of thing.
Did you have beer with this?
Er--no, but I will sometime, but I went back to the honey store and got honey wine, so that counts.  It smells and tastes like honey, and has the same pale golden color as the potatoes I devoured. But it's not cloying or sticky at all.  I like it and will go back for more.

Exploring a New City

Guten Tag!
I am delighted with my apartment.  The bed is comfortable, and the rooms are quieter and darker than my home at night, but even so I was zonked by jet lag, I got only about three hours of sleep.  I decided to give myself a short and easy day.
I walked outside this morning to find the day humid but pleasant.  I decided to walk up to the next S Bahn stop, get tickets and go to the historic center, but I felt fine, so I kept walking.  I did get some public transport tickets and came home via the S Bahn, but in between that I had a very pleasant stroll and day.  I stopped at the main train station to poke around, because I like looking around train stations.  Sometimes they provide useful facilities.
It took me about twenty five minutes to reach the heart of Munich, and I passed several beer gardens on the way.  I arrived early enough to miss the tourist crowds.  I dropped into a lovely late Baroque Church dedicated to St. Michael where poor Ludwig II is buried and later visited Die Frauenkirke dedicated to the Virgin Mary.  The current church is a reconstruction of severe war damage, so it does not look so very late Gothic, but the Late Medieval polychrome sculptures and paintings are wonderful.  Bavaria has been staunchly Catholic since Charlemagne's time.  The Protestant Movement never gained the teensiest foothold here.
Every visitor to Munich comes to see the two Rathauses or town halls.  The new one is a Late Gothic masterpiece and boasts the famous Glockenspiel with animated figures.  It's beautiful and a lot of fun.
Then--naturally--I gravitated to the Viktualienmarkt.
Well, Pil that name seems to have the word market in it, so I can guess why YOU would show up there.  What did you see?  Did you buy anything?
I've not bought anything yet, but I'll have to go back.  There is a lot of pork on offer--in various forms, and I intend to try some of it.  If you want plant matter, you can find fruits, vegetables, and flowers all looking bright and lovely.  I was fascinated by a honey shop, and of course one can get cheese.
I visited the Munich City Museum hoping to get to know the history better and also hoping for some cool period rooms.  I got a few of the latter, and I fear I am none the wiser as to the former, but on the other hand I did not rent the audio guide, and I began to get brain buzz.
So I strolled back to an S Bahn stop and went to a grocery store on the way home.  I got pasta, so nothing German.  By that time it had turned sultry.  It may come on to rain later.
Pil!  You disappoint your faithful readers.  We want to know about the FOOD!
Ok.
Breakfast is included in the good deal I got in my room.  Since I got in yesterday too late and jet lagged to go grocery shopping, I figured I'd show up this morning.  I expected the usual continental breakfast buffet--essentially bread--in other words meh--but this is Germany, meine Freunden, and the spread was northern continental.  Hot Hundchen!  Breads of various sorts, pastry, cheeses, soft and harder sausages, hot hard cooked eggs, butter, jam, honey.  All the tea I wanted, too.  At some point I'll even dig into the granola and yoghurt.  They start it nice and early, too.  My appetite and I shall be attending each morning, you can bet.  It's worth getting dressed for.
That's better.
And two people have asked me for directions already.  I couldn't help either.  Sigh

Wilkommen in Munchen!

Guten Tag!
I arrived brain buzzed and dehydrated, but I arrived after a long but smooth trip.  The adventure started early when the van driver gave me the wrong bag, and I didn't notice right away.  The flight was fine.  I just didn't sleep.  There were no screaming children or noisy cabin mates--just a supremely uncomfortable seat.  I also had a rather unfortunate dinner of rubbery pasta with over-seasoned--sauce I guess it was supposed to be.  All of us in the back of the plane shared in this experience as the other--much better sounding meal--ran out.
So I finally got to leave Munich Airport and come into the city.  The S Bahn station was easy to find and the machines are multi lingual, and I had Euro--a good thing since there is no ticket office.  The trains are very nice and smooth and the ride into town occasionally picturesque.  I got off at my stop. Now here is where I express my gratitude to google maps.  I scouted the area and noticed that there was a huge Mercedes Benz headquarters in the direction I needed to go.  When I exited the station, I looked around and spotted the logo.  No getting lost this time!
I lucked into a very good deal with a very nice room and wireless at the Citadines.  I swilled down a bottle of sparkling water, so the dehydration is taken care of.  The brain buzz remains, so I hope this makes sense.
Tomorrow the Real Adventures start!

Tell it to the Grimaldis!

Guten Tag!
So last April I was standing in line at Bologna Airport waiting for check in and a guy asked me in Italian if I was flying to Monaco.  The bewilderment on my face must have told the tale.  "Munchen," he said.  I said,"Ja"--I mean--"Si, Munchen."
Who cares.  Who are these Grimaldis, and why should I tell them anything?
The ruling family of the Principality of Monaco tucked into southern France.
Your knowing things like that is Really Obnoxious, Pil.  Monaco?
Means "Place of the Monks"  So does Munchen--that's Munich to you, and it makes sense to me.  So many cities not founded by Romans were originally monastic.  So while I am going to "Monaco" I shall not be visiting the fleshpots of Monte Carlo this trip!  But Munich these days isn't exactly monastic either.
It's July, Pil.  You are supposed to go in October to Oktober Fest.  Even I know that!
Uh.  Oktober Fest actually takes place in September, and no I am NOT showing up.  Munich is expensive enough as it is.  The "Fest" being popular with foreigners wanting to consume in excess, hotel prices go up, and accidents or victimhood among the drunken foreigners are not uncommon.
So I'm happy to go in July.
Why does something called Oktober Fest take place in September?
I don't know but my theory has to do with the change from the Julian to the Gregorian Calendar.
Your theories are obnoxious, too.  But good choice this time Pil.  Lotsa food and drink I bet.  Ummm beer!
And history and art, but never fear.  I will report on food and drink--knowing my audience as I do.  German food has the reputation of being heavy on the sausages, potatoes, and cabbage.  We shall see.
In the meantime let's have some fun facts about Munich to warm us all up.
See, the name "Monaco" and all those Italians flying there?  The joke is that Munich is not the southernmost German city.  It's the northernmost Italian city!  Bavarians have always been proud of their distinct regional and cultural identity.  Like many Europeans they both cherish their traditions and embrace modernity.
So that young German hipster you see with his laptop open, a cell phone in one hand, and a sausage in the other will be eating that Weisswurst for breakfast--Fruhstuck to us Germans--because it's just not done to have that sort of sausage for lunch.
By the way I intend to keep my congratulations to the EU on its latest member, Croatia, to myself.  Germany is the economic engine of the EU, and most Germans aren't keen on having their money drained off to support the struggling members.  If Bavaria were its own country, it's economy would rank nineteenth in the world.  Not bad!
Oh yeah!  I get it.   BMW stands for Bavarian Motor Works.
Don't forget Audi, Porsche, and Mercedes--not to mention Siemans and Adidas.  But we aren't going to any corporate headquarters.  Munich is well provided with museums and markets, and Bavaria abounds with lakes, mountains--and castles.
So please join me in the exploration of this fascinating city and region.

Someday When I Have More Time . . .

. . . and the weather is better, I would like to come back to Emilia-Romanga for another visit.  Although this region is not as glamorous as Tuscany, it is very rich in history.  I feel I have barely scratched the surface, and yet so much of the rest of Italy remains unexplored!  Right now I am pausing in my packing to have breakfast and a closing word with you.
This was not my best trip ever, but most of the time I enjoyed myself.  I saw some beautiful places, and I certainly ate well.  Ravenna was the highlight for me.
Bologna does make a good base.  The city is beautiful and elegant, and the historic center easy to navigate.  It has rail connections to anywhere in Italy you fancy.  If you like really long day trips (I don't) you can reach Milan, Venice, and Rome.  Florence would make a very reasonable day trip.  Good food and drink is abundant.  I just resent that I lost over an hour each day just getting to and from town.
The number of beggars also bothered me.  They are to be found anywhere in Europe, but they seemed particularly thick on the ground in Bologna.  Nearly every block in the town center had someone holding out a cup or a hand.  My theory is that in this kind of weather, the porticos provide some shelter.  Most of them are young and able bodied, so I don't know what the story is.  Maybe it's the bad economy?
And despite the efforts of the European Union, people smoke, and a lot of the puffers are young. Since they can't smoke indoors, they are smoking on the street.  It's hard to avoid.
But the place I am returning to has its own issues.  Compared to where I live, European cities seem so very livable.  They were created for people not automobiles, and the historic centers at least retain that human-centered quality.  The streets invite strolling and the licking of windows.  The bustle is pleasant not frantic.  Everything--even the grand buildings are on a human scale and many open spaces exist as piazzas and parks for people to gather and linger.  Everywhere you turn you will find something to please the eye.
Molto grazie for coming along with me on this trip!
Ciao

Revealing the Renaissance--Ferrara

Let's forget about yesterday shall we?  Today the sun came out and it was almost warm for my last full day this trip.  I went to Ferrara and had a good time.
I had a hard time deciding where to go, but I am glad I picked Ferrara. I'd certainly like to return and spend a few days there.  It's a lovely, historic--and easy place.  Because my time is so limited, I stuck to the palazzi of the Este Family. Yes, we met them in Modena, too.
Castello Estense dominates the center of town.  Now it's a Renaissance castle, not a Medieval one, but it is a true fortress--moat and all.  While most of the building is given over to city and regional offices within you will find the tourist information office and a museum that gives a glimpse into the life styles of the rich and ducal.  One thing I appreciated is the commentary in English on the purposes of the rooms and the history of the family.
I stopped for some gelato on my way to the next palazzo.  I got two traditional Italian favorites--crema--which was very like licking lemon frosting, and straticella which has choco bits.
It was a long walk out to the Palazzo Shifanoia, but Ferrara is very well sign posted.  This is the Este Family's "Palace of Joy."  Not all the rooms were open, so I got in free.  The frescos by Cosme Ture create an Arcadian World of elegant leisure.
Then I trudged back through town to the Palazzo Diamante.  It's an interesting building in itself, and one instantly realizes how it got its name, and no it's not shaped like a diamond, but the exterior looks rather like facets.  I wanted to see the art museum, but I am not having much luck with these, because I arrived just as it was closing.  Unreasonably early in my opinion.  It was only 2:00!
There's a whole lot more to Ferrara, and I barely scratched the surface, so as I said, I'd like to stay there a day or two.
Something interesting happened on the train ride back to Bologna.  The good looking guy who took the seat opposite me turned out to be train police.  He had luggage with him.  A cover?  And I could not help but notice he had two cell phones.  Now that seemed excessive even for Europeans, but later I figured one was personal and the other for work.  I also noticed he had no ticket.  He flashed something at the conductor, but I thought it must be a pass.  No such thing.  It was a badge.
I learned this when we stopped at one of Bologna's suburban stations.  The conductor insisted one passenger get off as his ticket was for this station.  The guy--who sounded like he was on drugs--refused.  And refused and kept refusing.
That's when my seatmate went into action.  He showed his badge and told the guy to get off and there was some other stuff in Italian that sounded like threats and fines.  The guy refused yet again.
One of the other passengers took pity on the man--or else just wanted the train to move--and paid his fare.  The train policeman was disgusted.  I would have been, too.
Ciao

Cold and Miserable

Ahhhh.  Hot green tea.  And internet in my room.  The two best things that have happened to me all day. It's not the wireless the network I'm supposed to be on, but that one doesn't work.  So.
One has to bank on a certain amount of frustration and disappointment when one travels as often as I do.  Today was it.  It rained all night.  It's going to rain all day.  The temperature is 7C, and I don't think I want to know what that is in Fahrenheit.
I started off my day nicely enough with the trip to the bancomat and the grocery store.  Then I set out well bundled but still cold for the Modern Art Museum of Bologna--its initials in Italian spell out MAMBO.  On my way three people asked me for directions.  I couldn't help any of them.
So I've walked by this MAMBO place three times while going elsewhere, but--it figures--when I was actually looking for it, I couldn't find it.  I wandered around for an hour before hitting the target.  And you know what, I really didn't want to see it but picked it because it was fairly close and open, and so I was not disappointed by the meh collection.
Then on to what I really wanted to see--the Pinacoteca Nationale--chock full of Late Medieval and Early Modern Art.  Hot puppies!  I hauled my carcass all the way across town in the rain and cold figuring on a couple of hours inside with some delightful art.
I found the place.
Closed.
What?  Even the sign on the door said it was supposed to be open.  I had no plan B, so I faced an hour long trudge home.
But at least I'm here, warming up and drying out.  And I have good food.  Ravioli di quattro fromaggi is on the menu with Lambrusco to wash it down.  For ante pasto I have prosciutto and mortadella. Breakfast will be whole grain bread--very tasty! spread with stracchino, which is a mild, but rich and creamy cheese from way north in Lombardy.  I drink it with plenty of strong black tea.
Here's hoping tomorrow will be drier and more fruitful.
Ciao!